The_Iceman

When I originally wrote this DIY I had no idea it would be so helpful to so many people. I'm glad to see what a thread this has become. I'm involved in so many different things so I rarley have a chance to check on this thread but I did today.

BTW my legend has not had one problem since I did this other than regular maintainence. Hope all others have had similar success.
Later..

Iceman

rb95gs

It's true this has become the "Bible" for the HG job.

I would like to post a big THANK-YOU to Iceman for the outstanding job he did capturing all of this for the rest of us to benefit from. I found that reading up on the job beforehand is a great confidence builder. At first the job seems daunting - just too much stuff to ever be able to remember how it all fits and in what order. But Iceman's pictures and text - and everyone else's contributions since have made this a great reference.

a couple notes for the take-apart phase:

(1) before trying to move the wiring harness, find and unplug ALL the connectors - don't miss the two under the ps pump.
(2) the wiring harness with injectors etc can be folded out over the driver side front corner of the car, without disconnecting the starter & alternator wires
(3) the control box can be unbolted and with vacuum tubing mostly left connected except at the manifold and EGR valve. The whole thing can be similarly folded to the driver side out of teh way.
(4) Before lifting the heads be sure to take out the three bolts holding the alternator bracket (dr side head), and the two adjuster bolts for the power steering pump (pass side head).

BTW, my car's symptoms were the classic ones. First came the wetness around the overflow tank. Then, even when cold, there was always slight residual positive pressure when opening the radiator cap. And after a drive where a long uphill was involved, there was a definite level increase in the overflow tank - beyond the high level mark. It even overheated once - but it didn't get all the way up before heading back down. If I hadn't read this forum, I'd have still been in denial and probably wrecked my engine. But thanks to this forum and Iceman my car is getting a new lease on life.

THANKS AGAIN ICEMAN !!!!!!

JToce

I want to join the legions of adoring Iceman fans. Seriously- thanks for your DIY guide. I just got done with my 95 Legend GS and now she's purrrring like a kitten. I'm in grad school, so I had to do it little by little spread out over 4 weekends. But a sharpie marker, roll of masking tape, and zip lock bags helped me keep organized and get everything back together. Also- thanks for the warnings. It kept me from clipping my knock sensors. Although I did make a classic blunder and pop off the A/C line because it was in the way. (Cost me one of those weekends as I had to air out the garage.) I only wish the rest of the DIY forum was as detailed as this thread.

use2make1

Ok so 3 weeks ago she overheated and i replaced the thermostat, fixed it for 3 days then heat again flushed and bleed it fixed for 2 weeks and then my radiator cracked up top near the neck.... replaced and then it began overflowing from the cap so i replaced the cap no luck now i have pissed away 4 gallons of coolant trying to bleed the air, But no matter how i do it thier is steady air coming out the bleeder. has anyone used the complete gasket set on ebay ? also the water pump and timing belt? its like "MIZUTO" or something like that.... Grrr damn it i really dont want to believe it but i cant figure out what else would make her continue to overheat no matter what i try.......... any ideas? Come on guys let me hear your opions
As usual THANKS TO ALL OF YOU. any recomendations while im in there ?

use2make1

oops i forgot to add she is an auto cpe w/ only 133,000

rb95gs

Here's a tip for putting the heads on. They are heavy and hard to aim - and the heat shield tends to grab the gasket edge. A slip sheet works great.

Put the new gasket on the block over the dowels - then make a cardboard slip sheet to lay over the new gasket - put a couple notches at the bottom for the dowels. Now put the front lower head bolt in the head and lift it into place, aiming the front lower corner of the head so the bolt goes thru the dowel. Rotate the head and lower it until both dowels are engaged - then pull out the slipsheet before jiggling the head down on the dowels.

My project has turned the corner - heads are back on. There's some minor reconstruction to do on the stay at the back end of the y-pipe, then put on a new water pump and bolt it all back together.

use2make1

cool idea thanks man

gistecknician

I have started my BHG repair today. I am very mechanically inclined and should have it done by Sunday. I am not sending my heads out for milling. I am confident that all will go well. I am using this DIY as for reference only as I like to remove everything, and have a completely clutter free work area (ex. leaving harness in engine bay) that's just how I am, please don't take it as critisism.

While I am doing my repair; is their any specific photos that you all feel would be a positive contribution to this DIY? If your answer is yes, let me know and I will be sure to snap them and post here post-repair.

gistecknician

Another victim of a cylinder #3 head gasket failure:



Still can't get that damn top exhaust bolt off of the drivers side. I have decided to cut it off with a Dremel(R). So far every bolt has come off with no problems what so ever, and I have not had to whip of the air tools yet.

One more head to go and this will be another self-repaired BHG thanks to this DIY!

rb95gs

One of the studs on my manifold broke off - getting the rest of it out was tougher than expected. First I took out the O2 sensor so it wouldn't be damaged by the heat. Got the flange and stud bright red with acetylene and hammered it a bit - then reheated a little & tried to loosen it with vise grips - it would turn about 30 degrees but then get really stiff. After cooling it finally came loose with zep45 and lots of patient motion back-and-forth. Best of luck with your project.

rb95gs

My HG job is 99.9% done. I started the car up today - hooray! - all appears fine. Still need to put the bottom shield back on - and change oil & filter. It's nice to have it back together - big job. I've changed several head gaskets in my time and the Legend gets the prize for most cruft to take apart and put back. It really helped to have a second Legend to look at - there's too much to just remember it like can be done with easier cars.

There was a question above about eBay gasket sets. I used FelPro head gaskets from Rock Auto ($65 shipped) - but for the rest I got an eBay gasket set from DomesticGaskets (in CA) - $45 I think. This is a nice gasket set - I was particularly impressed with the quality and fit of everything - the valve cover gaskets are a good design - they have the little bumps like OEM so they stay put while handling the covers. Probably their head gaskets would have been fine too - they have extra rings of sealant on some passages - they actually look a bit nicer than the FelPros - but I have used a lot FelPro head gaskets and have had good results so I stayed with them.

KEYZER SOZE

Yeah, I've been wondering about the HG kit on ebay by DomesticGaskets. Has anyone else used them?

DevanTheDude

Great tip here!! I actually had to buy 1 new HG because the head slipped when reinstalling it and cut the gasket.
As far as the exhaust manifold to Y pipe bolts go, I knew these would be trouble so I put the car on jackstands and PB blasted them from underneath twice a day for a few days befors I started the job. They came right off!!

Nekkro-Kvlt

Hi, I have the symptom:

2. Engine idles irratically;up&down;fast then slow; during cold starts. Especially in the morning.

But not the others. I'll check if I have traces of coolant but I think I have not. Should I think about changing the head gasket ?
Thanks !

Team LR

you mite wanna start out by, bleeding air out your cooling system, change your thermostat too before you take on this job

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