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Old 02-26-06, 10:07 PM   #61 (permalink)
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I'm replacing the engine in my 95 legend with a JDM, Since I need to swap intake manifold to be smog legal in CA, Should replace the Head Gasket and recondition the head before installacion? Thanks for your reply.
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Old 02-26-06, 10:36 PM   #62 (permalink)
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My best freind (very good mitsu mechanic) just finished mine with a WP/TB install at the same time.

He replaced all seals, gaskets, everything.

Everything went well but two things.

1.) Exauhst leak, no biggie, we'll fix next weekend.

2.) THE PROBLEM

Imagine if you will........ You'r sitting in the car, it's idleing good, you push on the gas for normal "green light" acceleration and the car kinda sputters. So you try variations of this:

Start to go, it sputters, you let off the gas, the car picks up like it should have when you were giving it gas (just for a second), then decelerates.

Start to go, it sputters, you keep giving it gas, it works it's way through the sputter and then drives and accelerates as normal

Gas to the floor (on a dirt road), the car starts to move forward but does not even spin the tires (on gravel), you keep it floored and about 2500-3000 RPM it "kicks in" and starts spinning the tires. Kepp in mind that it took 2-3 seconds to reach 3000 RPM.

And now...... tonight, it is idleing way low, to the point that the lights start to dim.

What do you think?

Thanks in advance,
Tom
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Old 02-26-06, 11:04 PM   #63 (permalink)
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Make sure the timing belt is installed right, all the hoses are hooked up and the EGR port inside the intake manifold is not clogged up.

I always take the EGR port plate off the back of the intake manifold and clean all the snot out of the port. Last Legend I did HGs on, had alot of hesitation before the HG job, after I got done with the hesitation was completly eliminated. Acura has a TSB on EGR port clogging which can cause hesitation and drive line vibrations on the MDXs. Similar principle applies to the Legends, but none of them but the 95 models will code for a EGR problem. 95s will code saying the EGR valve is bad, but in reality the port is clogged and it needs to be cleaned. 96-up RL and TLs with the C series motor will code with a P0401 EGR flow insufficient code, I get to fix alot of independent shops misdiagnosis because they always install the valve and never clean the port out- causing the light to come on within 100 miles.

Port can be cleaned without taking the intake manifold off, you just need to remove the EGR pipe that runs from the back of the right cylinder head to the intake manifold-remove the black box on the firewall where the MAP sensor sits in to see the pipe better and get at the bolts. Get a small but long drill bit and stick it in the EGR port hole (where the EGR pipe bolts up too) till it pokes a hole in the EGR port hole-there is a hole there that will be all carboned up. You will need to gradually move up in drill bit sizes till you make that hole perfectly clean. After that you will want to reinstall the EGR pipe (clean all of the stuff from it also), remove the EGR valve itself and get some Honda Top Engine cleaner and pour the whole can down the EGR valve hole. Put the valve back on, and go drive the car around a secluded area to get rid of all the white smoke from the tail pipe. The Top Engine cleaned will dislodge any of the carbon that might be still in the intake manifold EGR port and will burn it all off in the engine. At the same time Top Engine cleaner will burn off some of the carbon sitting ontop of your piston tops and clean the intake valves/ports.

Hope this sorta makes sense, unfortunately I do not have any pictures of the EGR port cleaning procedure.
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Old 02-27-06, 02:22 AM   #64 (permalink)
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Most likely the timing belt is one notch off.

Here is a tip for timing the engine.
Remove the spark plugs! Set the drivers side cam pulley right on the timing mark, set the pass. side cam pulley on the timing mark then rotate the pully towards the engine about 1/2 of a tooth. Set the crankshaft right on the timing mark. Install the belt starting at the crankshaft then tensioner the pass. cam pulley ect.. Loosen the tensioner bolt to allow the tensioner to tighten the belt then tighten it back. Rotate the engine through 6 times and check the timing marks, they should be right on. Loosen the tensioner bolt again and retighten it.

I had trouble with this until I used the 1/2 tooth tip.

Here is a good thread for timing belt help
https://www.acura-legend.com/vbulleti...iming+belt+tip
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Old 02-27-06, 03:45 AM   #65 (permalink)
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Quote:
Make sure the timing belt is installed right, all the hoses are hooked up and the EGR port inside the intake manifold is not clogged up.

I always take the EGR port plate off the back of the intake manifold and clean all the snot out of the port. Last Legend I did HGs on, had alot of hesitation before the HG job, after I got done with the hesitation was completly eliminated. Acura has a TSB on EGR port clogging which can cause hesitation and drive line vibrations on the MDXs. Similar principle applies to the Legends, but none of them but the 95 models will code for a EGR problem. 95s will code saying the EGR valve is bad, but in reality the port is clogged and it needs to be cleaned. 96-up RL and TLs with the C series motor will code with a P0401 EGR flow insufficient code, I get to fix alot of independent shops misdiagnosis because they always install the valve and never clean the port out- causing the light to come on within 100 miles.

Port can be cleaned without taking the intake manifold off, you just need to remove the EGR pipe that runs from the back of the right cylinder head to the intake manifold-remove the black box on the firewall where the MAP sensor sits in to see the pipe better and get at the bolts. Get a small but long drill bit and stick it in the EGR port hole (where the EGR pipe bolts up too) till it pokes a hole in the EGR port hole-there is a hole there that will be all carboned up. You will need to gradually move up in drill bit sizes till you make that hole perfectly clean. After that you will want to reinstall the EGR pipe (clean all of the stuff from it also), remove the EGR valve itself and get some Honda Top Engine cleaner and pour the whole can down the EGR valve hole. Put the valve back on, and go drive the car around a secluded area to get rid of all the white smoke from the tail pipe. The Top Engine cleaned will dislodge any of the carbon that might be still in the intake manifold EGR port and will burn it all off in the engine. At the same time Top Engine cleaner will burn off some of the carbon sitting ontop of your piston tops and clean the intake valves/ports.

Hope this sorta makes sense, unfortunately I do not have any pictures of the EGR port cleaning procedure.
Great info here. This could explain why my 92 was faster than my 94LS
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Old 02-27-06, 08:26 PM   #66 (permalink)
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Thanks for the tips Blackbird and Jetdoc

Jetdoc, maybe the previous owner of your '92 installed a turbonator
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Old 03-02-06, 08:10 PM   #67 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackBirdVQ
Make sure the timing belt is installed right, all the hoses are hooked up and the EGR port inside the intake manifold is not clogged up.

I always take the EGR port plate off the back of the intake manifold and clean all the snot out of the port. Last Legend I did HGs on, had alot of hesitation before the HG job, after I got done with the hesitation was completly eliminated. Acura has a TSB on EGR port clogging which can cause hesitation and drive line vibrations on the MDXs. Similar principle applies to the Legends, but none of them but the 95 models will code for a EGR problem. 95s will code saying the EGR valve is bad, but in reality the port is clogged and it needs to be cleaned. 96-up RL and TLs with the C series motor will code with a P0401 EGR flow insufficient code, I get to fix alot of independent shops misdiagnosis because they always install the valve and never clean the port out- causing the light to come on within 100 miles.

Port can be cleaned without taking the intake manifold off, you just need to remove the EGR pipe that runs from the back of the right cylinder head to the intake manifold-remove the black box on the firewall where the MAP sensor sits in to see the pipe better and get at the bolts. Get a small but long drill bit and stick it in the EGR port hole (where the EGR pipe bolts up too) till it pokes a hole in the EGR port hole-there is a hole there that will be all carboned up. You will need to gradually move up in drill bit sizes till you make that hole perfectly clean. After that you will want to reinstall the EGR pipe (clean all of the stuff from it also), remove the EGR valve itself and get some Honda Top Engine cleaner and pour the whole can down the EGR valve hole. Put the valve back on, and go drive the car around a secluded area to get rid of all the white smoke from the tail pipe. The Top Engine cleaned will dislodge any of the carbon that might be still in the intake manifold EGR port and will burn it all off in the engine. At the same time Top Engine cleaner will burn off some of the carbon sitting ontop of your piston tops and clean the intake valves/ports.

Hope this sorta makes sense, unfortunately I do not have any pictures of the EGR port cleaning procedure.
I don't know where you got the idea that only 95's set EGR codes. I've seen EGR codes on all model year Legends (even G1's for that matter). A clogged port at the pipe to manifold connection wouldn't cause this code either. All the ecu looks for is feedback from the valve lift sensor. As long as the valve opens on command and the sensor is operational, no codes will set, regardless of whether the ports are clogged. EGR codes on these cars are generally caused by either a faulty valve lift sensor or control solenoid, or a disconnected/damaged vacuum line.
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Old 03-20-06, 05:58 PM   #68 (permalink)
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quick question for iceman or anyone who knows...while doing the head gasket job..one of the first steps was to jack the car up..but after i disconnect the exhaust manifold..can i bring the car back down? or shall i leave it up for other reasons?
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Old 03-20-06, 07:35 PM   #69 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PearlWhiteLedge
quick question for iceman or anyone who knows...while doing the head gasket job..one of the first steps was to jack the car up..but after i disconnect the exhaust manifold..can i bring the car back down? or shall i leave it up for other reasons?

Leave it up for dropped tools etc, and when you take the heads off you'll need to put a catch tray under each head for the antifreeze pouring out.
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Old 03-20-06, 09:12 PM   #70 (permalink)
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Leave it up for convenience, like dethred said for dropped tools, screws, coolant, etc. I am working on it rightnow actually and I've had to go there a few times to grab stuff; I think it's probably a good idea to leave it on Jackstands.
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Old 03-20-06, 11:35 PM   #71 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PearlWhiteLedge
quick question for iceman or anyone who knows...while doing the head gasket job..one of the first steps was to jack the car up..but after i disconnect the exhaust manifold..can i bring the car back down? or shall i leave it up for other reasons?
Yeah, you can. I was tempted to drop it back down, since pulling the heads(with the headers and primary cats still attached) was awkward enough, but ultimately I left it in the air. Though if I had it to do over, I'd drop it back down....any tools dropped will either be in reach outright, or use a stick; and shallow pans do just fine for coolant either way.
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Old 03-28-06, 09:10 AM   #72 (permalink)
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Leave it up... It'll save your back too! I'm glad this thread has sparked so many discussions. We love our LEGENDS! My car is still running like a dream and it's been 1 year. Not one problem since!
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Old 03-28-06, 08:53 PM   #73 (permalink)
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Just did my HG now car wont run. It sounds like it wants to run but it just doesnt. I timed everything to TDC for the second time. First time I was way off. Anybody have any suggestions? There is a shop here in Houston that would have done it for $660.00 including parts. Am I an f&@!ing idiot or what for trying it myself.
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Old 03-28-06, 09:11 PM   #74 (permalink)
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I had some trouble getting mine in tune the first time until I followed this tip.

Remove the spark plugs! Set the drivers side cam pulley right on the timing mark, set the pass. side cam pulley on the timing mark then rotate the pully towards the engine about 1/2 of a tooth. Set the crankshaft right on the timing mark. Install the belt starting at the crankshaft then tensioner the pass. cam pulley ect.. Loosen the tensioner bolt to allow the tensioner to tighten the belt then tighten it back. Rotate the engine through 6 times and check the timing marks, they should be right on. Loosen the tensioner bolt again and retighten it.

I had trouble with this until I used the 1/2 tooth tip
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Old 03-28-06, 09:26 PM   #75 (permalink)
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Thanks alot for the info. I will give it a try right now. yor a life saver.
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