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DIYs These threads contain answers to common topics. "Do it yourself" modifications are also archived here.

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Old 06-12-06, 02:43 AM   #106 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lgndkiller
I am in the process of getting a 95 Legend GS. Please can someone tell me what i should look for when i go to pick up the car. I was told to check the coolent level before i start the car take it for a high speed run and let it idal for a while when we get back and then look at the coolent level in the resoviore. Will a hard run of this nature catch a BHG. i will also look for the erratic idaling and keep an eye on the temp gauge. Does anyone have any other idea's on what else i should look at. Your help is highly appreciated.

To safely do that you better have a whole day. Always wait a few hours before opening the radiator filler cap to avoid serious injury. Just ask to take it out for 30 minutes. If he/she declines, ask if you can let it idle for 30 minutes after it reaches operating temps. If he/she declines they're hiding something. It can take as long as 20-25 minutes to manifest an air bubble even under normal driving.

-Check the fluid before starting it up, if the engine is cold
-Run engine for as long as possible.
-Check for fan activation
-Check for overheating, even if slight, at or past the 1/2 way mark

If you're still not sure, get a sample of the anti-freeze from the radiator after it ran for a while, and send it off to a shop or lab to be tested for hydrocarbons.
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Old 06-14-06, 12:50 AM   #107 (permalink)
 
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if they're really nice maybe you could open the air bleed valve. bleed it before, test drive it for a while, and open it after.
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Old 06-14-06, 03:46 AM   #108 (permalink)
 
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...oooK, first off; new for here at this Forum [ and a GREAT one at that ], working with a 94' Acura Legend w/3.2L eng...... onset here & all apart now(torndown) for the D.I.Y Head Gasket_job......no worries for i AM mechanically inclined and all { tool's = MAC & SnapOn etc..} my question of concern is to deal with the new Head Gasket Set (FelPro @ that) = Why are the "holes for the water passages like on one end is of one size then towards the other end of the head, the "hole's" tend get smaller in size and noted they are NOT the same "oval_type" shape as per say the water passages from block to head???? am i to try and cut ea or all of the passages to equal the opening jacket's showing from the block to the head to make match??? OR, is this some sort of water "restriction" for which is required & i am not understanding whole-ly/correctly??? much appreciate your replies/comment's/suggestion's on this matter.......again, GREAT forum for help, here.....

.....mr. Charles


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Old 06-14-06, 04:20 PM   #109 (permalink)
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Hmmmm Mr Charles, I noticed this too and did nothing. I haven't had a problem yet. I think it may be for water restriction as you sai but I'm not sure.

DV8, wanna shed some light on this one as it is out of my Legend knowledge.
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Old 06-14-06, 08:30 PM   #110 (permalink)
 
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1_Hot_Legend_L
Hmmmm Mr Charles, I noticed this too and did nothing. I haven't had a problem yet. I think it may be for water restriction as you sai but I'm not sure.
............

. . . thx for your reply back for this 1_Hot_Legend_L........ at least i can say that i am NOT seeing thing's........ .........but, does that ever look like to be some bit of water restriction's for the water passages and all..... ........hope someone else out there will know the REAL insight/fact for this........

mr. Charles


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Old 06-14-06, 08:42 PM   #111 (permalink)
 
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this might be kind of random here but i didn't think it was exactly thread worthy and i couldn't find another thread on it.

i've been driving around my legend with a BHG for a while now, though only a few miles, it doesnt even have time to overheat, though i think the heads are warped. is there any indication of the heads being warped that i can find? if they are warped and i need to have my heads straightened, how much would that cost?

Last edited by bicball; 06-14-06 at 08:51 PM.
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Old 06-19-06, 01:24 PM   #112 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetdoc
Most likely the timing belt is one notch off.

Here is a tip for timing the engine.
Remove the spark plugs! Set the drivers side cam pulley right on the timing mark, set the pass. side cam pulley on the timing mark then rotate the pully towards the engine about 1/2 of a tooth. Set the crankshaft right on the timing mark. Install the belt starting at the crankshaft then tensioner the pass. cam pulley ect.. Loosen the tensioner bolt to allow the tensioner to tighten the belt then tighten it back. Rotate the engine through 6 times and check the timing marks, they should be right on. Loosen the tensioner bolt again and retighten it.

I had trouble with this until I used the 1/2 tooth tip.

Here is a good thread for timing belt help
https://www.acura-legend.com/vbulleti...iming+belt+tip
I just finished a the head gasket job. I got my car started but it is running rough and backfiring slightly. So I'm guessing it is the timing. How far should I break it down to get the timing right? Removing the cam sprocket shields or removing the entire cover and putting the belt on from scratch? My passenger side cam sprocket does not have a timing mark so I made a best guess.
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Old 06-19-06, 05:56 PM   #113 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theworldisnotenough
I just finished a the head gasket job. I got my car started but it is running rough and backfiring slightly. So I'm guessing it is the timing. How far should I break it down to get the timing right? Removing the cam sprocket shields or removing the entire cover and putting the belt on from scratch? My passenger side cam sprocket does not have a timing mark so I made a best guess.
You should have marked it before taking it off. But it still should have a mark somewhere, just look closer.
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Old 06-28-06, 10:05 PM   #114 (permalink)
 
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one question, if i had a BHG, would the oil become white and pasty?
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Old 06-28-06, 10:13 PM   #115 (permalink)
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yes if u have water in ur oil it will look milky... if milky is a word...
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Old 06-29-06, 01:51 AM   #116 (permalink)
 
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Usually if it is really noticable, then you have a cracked head or block. I had a very tiny bit but I can spot it easily nowadays.
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Old 07-02-06, 09:58 PM   #117 (permalink)
 
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hey i got this question

hey guys... k im replacing my head gaskets and im taking off the intake manifold.. and i have all the screws and bolts off... and i can move it around, the front lifts totally off the bolts... but the back 2 dont.. but they still lift up a lil bit... are there any bolts or screws or anything that could be holding it down, in the back? i need a quick reply.. thanks!
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Old 07-02-06, 10:13 PM   #118 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by salomonrider55
hey guys... k im replacing my head gaskets and im taking off the intake manifold.. and i have all the screws and bolts off... and i can move it around, the front lifts totally off the bolts... but the back 2 dont.. but they still lift up a lil bit... are there any bolts or screws or anything that could be holding it down, in the back? i need a quick reply.. thanks!
Did you unbolt the EGR metal tube? That would definitely hold you back from getting the intake off.
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Old 07-03-06, 12:36 AM   #119 (permalink)
 
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where is the egr pipe... i have a haynes manual.. and it doesnt show where it is... and ya... i prob shouldnt be doin this myself. but its too late now... so where would it be located? cause i took off a metal pipe from the air intake to the manifold... but thats the only one... it seems like sumthing is holding on in the back...
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Old 07-03-06, 01:54 AM   #120 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by salomonrider55
where is the egr pipe... i have a haynes manual.. and it doesnt show where it is... and ya... i prob shouldnt be doin this myself. but its too late now... so where would it be located? cause i took off a metal pipe from the air intake to the manifold... but thats the only one... it seems like sumthing is holding on in the back...
It should be directly on the backside of the intake manifold, somewhere under the EGR valve. You will need to shine a flashlight down there and you should be able to see it.
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