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Old 07-09-07, 09:34 AM   #1 (permalink)
Insert key, crank, BHG.
 
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JDM/EDM non-navi console DIY

Hokay. So you're the proud new owner of a JDM or EDM non-navi console. You stand to gain a good bit of rich burlwood but you are a bit frightened by taking your precious car apart. Don't worry, this one is easy. We will only be replacing your armrest; Radio brackets, climate control relocation and a bunch of power issues that are trouble with the navi console are none of your concern. Heres a quick list of the things you'll need:
-small flathead screw driver
-large phillips head screw driver
-socket wrench (i believe only 10mm)
-power test meter
-16 gauge wire
-crimping/stripping tool
-crimps (I recommend crimps you can plug and unplug at will. Look at my pictures and you'll understand what I'm talking about.)

Before you even gather your tools for this, I recommend you read through this DIY so you know whats ahead and you can plan accordingly.

So with these things in hand, lets get started (Note: before we actually get started, its a great idea to wax your burlwood! Just wet a microfiber towel with water and towel off the burlwood to clean it and wax the wood as you would your car. The wood will have a sheen to it, you'll have an unusually smooth console and you'll be able to carry that 'just waxed' smell with you... everyone wins!). These first few pictures are courtesy of stella91legend's ashtray ipod DIY. Thanks for not minding while I borrow them. The first thing we're going to do is pull your USDM burlwood off. So get your fingers under the shifter bezel and just pry it up.


Now remove the two screws in the coin tray


Now would be a good time to set your ebrake but you won't have one much longer so instead wedge something under a tire that will prevent you from rolling anywhere. An old pair of marching band shoes is my wedge of choice.


Now put your key in the 'shiftlock release' next to your shifter and with your foot on the brake, pull the shifter back to gear 1. Slowly take your foot off the brake being careful and taking note that you're not rolling away.

Now gently pry the burlwood up with a flat head screw driver. There are five clips on the bottom you will need to pop before it pulls up. Once you get the burlwood off, disconnect the cigarette lighter harness and toss out your old burlwood.

Now we've got to get your armrest off. Remove all the crap in your console and then remove these two screws:


Then remove the single screw in your console towards the front.

Now move both of your front seats all the way forward. Get into your backseat and pry this panel off with a flathead screw driver. There are two clips holding the top of the panel in so pry accordingly.


Now there are two more screws that need to come off and the whole armrest is free. Remove the bottom screws on either side of the armrest as pictured:


Now unplug your seat heater controls up front and the armrest is free. (Note: Your old USDM seat heater controls can actually be popped out and fit into your JDM burlwood if the controls weren't included in your JDM/EDM console.) Apply the ebrake and you can carefully lift it out of place over the ebrake and out of the car. The SRS module is under here so be especially careful. Nothing has ever happened to me, but I imagine you don't want to fool around with the module that controls your airbag's deployment. Its also worth noting that the wires encased in yellow tubing are the SRS wires and also shouldn't be messed with or tapped for power.

Now we've got to get that ebrake off. The handle is attached at two points directly to the chassis. If my memory serves me right, they were 10mm bolts. Upon removing the hand brake, you'll find a sensor than had been grounded to the chassis as well. You'll need to tape this off so it doesn't ground itself because if it does, it will illuminate your 'brake' light for no reason. Now the back of your hand brake must be removed as well before it will lift out.

If you look in the where the rod from hand brake connects with the bracket right before it slips under your back rug, you'll notice theres a nut threaded on the rod:


Ordinarily this nut is there to adjust the tension to your drum brakes. We'll get taking it off however. All you have to do is get a wrench and unscrew it. The nut and spring will pop off and you can now lift the hand brake out of the way. Its a good idea to hang onto the handbrake for passing inspection. Once you get the hand brake out and the sensor taped off, you can get to putting everything back together.

Now get the new JDM/EDM armrest in the car and rest it as the old armrest was just sitting. Before we screw it in, we should hook up the new cigarette lighter. This is a simple matter of running wires. The best place to get power is the harness for your front cigarette lighter. Bare with me here because my cigarette lighter harness was butchered the guy that installed my first stereo so I don't know how its powered. I do know that it will have an ignition power, a head lamp power(becomes 12v power when the headlights are on) and a ground (and maybe a battery power too, not sure). Use your power testing meter to determine which is which and be careful; the headlight power will appear to be a ground while the headlights are off. Once you figure out whats what, connect the three needed wires in the best way you see fit. You may be able to lift the tab and fit the old wires and these new wires in the old harness or you may have to snip the harness and do a bit of crimping. If you need ideas, this is what my front lighter looks like:


Now tilt your armrest back so you can get at the rear lighter harness and run your wires to the back cigarette lighter. When you cut the wires, make sure you have enough room to reach the lighter and a good bit of slack for crimping. This harness I CAN tell you what everything does. The white/blue is the ignition power, the red is headlight power and the black is ground:


Now gently place the armrest in position and screw in the two forward screws. The armrest may get caught on something in the back that you'll have to lift it over. Just be gentle and don't simply muscle it into position. Once again move your seats all the way forward and replace the two back screws. There are two things to note when replacing these back screws: 1) the white plastic piece you are screwing into is plastic and theres no need to over screw and 2) the metal bracket the white thing is on is movable. If you pull at the bottom, it will move in a spring loaded type fashion. Once these two screws are in you can replace the back panel (These back panels are interchangable with the USDM panels in case you're wondering) and we're pretty much done. You can now put on your beautiful new burlwood. Put the front panel on first, then plug in the seat heaters to the back panel and fit the back wood panel into the console.

YOU'RE DONE!! You've increased your burlwood's mass by 20% and gained a rear cigarette lighter.

I'm working on my JDM navi DIY too so stay tuned!
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.:JDM/EDM Non-Navi DIY:.
.:JDM Navi Console DIY:.
.:Cluster/Speedo Replacement DIY:.

I think OEM is the best look. I just don't happen to think any of the various arrangements of OEM got it exactly right all at once

Last edited by Pinyix; 07-16-07 at 08:49 PM.
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Old 07-09-07, 09:43 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Thanks Ken, this is a great DIY.

I will print this out to look over with my Haynes when I install my UKDM console here real soon. I especially look forward to your NAVI DIY.

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Old 07-09-07, 10:19 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Want this moved to the DIY section?
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Old 07-09-07, 10:43 AM   #4 (permalink)
Insert key, crank, BHG.
 
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Yes please.
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.:JDM/EDM Non-Navi DIY:.
.:JDM Navi Console DIY:.
.:Cluster/Speedo Replacement DIY:.

I think OEM is the best look. I just don't happen to think any of the various arrangements of OEM got it exactly right all at once
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Old 07-09-07, 10:44 AM   #5 (permalink)
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This is awesome, Pinyix! Thanks for taking the time to do this and especially for the upcoming JDM Navi DIY - I'm really looking forward to that!!
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Old 07-09-07, 10:56 AM   #6 (permalink)
Insert key, crank, BHG.
 
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Quite welcome. If anyone can get me more specific instructions on removing the ebrake with pictures I would greatly appreciate it. Its just been too long since I did it and I can't seem to figure out how things went together looking at the parts. Sooner or later i'm going to need to put it back on for inspection and I seem to have totally forgotten how the ebrake fits on!
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.:JDM/EDM Non-Navi DIY:.
.:JDM Navi Console DIY:.
.:Cluster/Speedo Replacement DIY:.

I think OEM is the best look. I just don't happen to think any of the various arrangements of OEM got it exactly right all at once
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Old 07-16-07, 08:47 PM   #7 (permalink)
Insert key, crank, BHG.
 
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DIY updated. Thanks Quaraxkad for that picture and the refresher for my memory!
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.:JDM/EDM Non-Navi DIY:.
.:JDM Navi Console DIY:.
.:Cluster/Speedo Replacement DIY:.

I think OEM is the best look. I just don't happen to think any of the various arrangements of OEM got it exactly right all at once
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Old 08-17-07, 05:32 PM   #8 (permalink)
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So i put that after the "http://www."? ?
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Old 08-17-07, 05:36 PM   #9 (permalink)
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what's the status of the navi DIY? Just curious!
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Old 08-17-07, 05:51 PM   #10 (permalink)
Insert key, crank, BHG.
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ledge-N-Dairy View Post
So i put that after the "http://www."? ?
I'm not sure what you're trying to say or ask.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AllCammedUp View Post
what's the status of the navi DIY? Just curious!
Its done! I just have to create a thread and match up the pictures where they belong in the text.
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.:JDM/EDM Non-Navi DIY:.
.:JDM Navi Console DIY:.
.:Cluster/Speedo Replacement DIY:.

I think OEM is the best look. I just don't happen to think any of the various arrangements of OEM got it exactly right all at once
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Old 08-17-07, 08:54 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pinyix
Its done! I just have to create a thread and match up the pictures where they belong in the text.
Awesome!! Can't wait to see it!
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