JDM Navigation Console DIY - The Acura Legend & Acura RL Forum
Acura Legend Forum Acura Legend Forum
 

Auto Insurance

» Featured Product
Wheel & Tire Center

Go Back   The Acura Legend & Acura RL Forum > Shop Talk > DIYs

DIYs These threads contain answers to common topics. "Do it yourself" modifications are also archived here.

Acura-Legend.com is the premier Acura Legend Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 08-18-07, 10:10 AM   #1 (permalink)
Insert key, crank, BHG.
 
Pinyix's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 4,377


Car 1: '92 LS "December"
Car 2: 6MT Canterbury Coupe


iTrader Score: 16 reviews
JDM Navigation Console DIY

Hokay. So you're the proud new owner of a JDM navigation console. I know, the prospect of a screen fitting flush with an OEM look has got you chomping at the bit to install it. Here is what I'm going to help you install in this DIY:
-JDM armrest/lid
-JDM radio brackets
-JDM screen trim
-JDM clock
-vents
-burlwood

Heres what I won't be covering:
-how to custom fit a screen into the JDM screen bezel
-how to fit a radio to the JDM climate control
-how to attach the ducts for the lower vents
-how to install a working e-brake

The reason I won't be detailing any of those is because they all require custom work that I have not done. I got lucky and shaar, the owner before me fit the screen and radio. The JDM ducts were designed to go straight back into the main ducting which there is no hole for the USDM models. You could drill it yourself or pursue the after market two piece JDM ducts that run up to the spot where our ducts can be easily accessed. I won't be walking through these steps, but you're welcome to PM me and ask for pictures.

Now heres a quick list of tools you'll need:
-small flathead screw driver
-large phillips head screw driver
-needle nosed pliers
-socket wrench (i believe only 10mm)
-power test meter
-16 gauge wire
-crimping/stripping tool
-crimps (I recommend crimps you can plug and unplug at will. Look at my pictures and you'll understand what I'm talking about.)

Before you even gather your tools for this, I recommend you read through this DIY so you know whats ahead and you can plan accordingly. Also remember, my initial install took 20 hours over the course of 3 days. It shouldn't take you anywhere near that long thanks to this DIY, but it will take a good afternoon of work to complete.

So with tools in hand, lets get started (Note: before we actually get started, its a great idea to wax your burlwood! Just wet a microfiber towel with water and towel off the burlwood to clean it and wax the wood as you would your car. The wood will have a sheen to it, you'll have an unusually smooth console and you'll be able to carry that 'just waxed' smell with you... everyone wins!). These first few pictures are courtesy of stella91legend's ashtray ipod DIY. Thanks for not minding while I borrow them. The first thing we're going to do is pull your USDM burlwood off. So get your fingers under the shifter bezel and just pry it up.


Now remove the two screws in the coin tray


Now would be a good time to set your ebrake but you won't have one much longer so instead wedge something under a tire that will prevent you from rolling anywhere. An old pair of marching band shoes is my wedge of choice.


Now put your key in the 'shiftlock release' next to your shifter and with your foot on the brake, pull the shifter back to gear 1. Slowly take your foot off the brake being careful and taking note that you're not rolling away.

Now gently pry the burlwood up with a flat head screw driver. There are five clips on the bottom you will need to pop before it pulls up. Once you get the burlwood off, disconnect the cigarette lighter harness and toss out your old burlwood.

Now we've got to get your armrest off. Remove all the crap in your console and then remove these two screws:


Then remove the single screw under the lid in your console towards the front.

Now move both of your front seats all the way forward. Get into your backseat and pry this panel off with a flathead screw driver. There are two clips holding the top of the panel in so pry accordingly.


Now there are two more screws that need to come off and the whole armrest is free. Remove the bottom screws on either side of the armrest as pictured:


Now unplug your seat heater controls up front and the armrest is free. (Note: Your old USDM seat heater controls can actually be popped out and fit into your JDM burlwood if the controls weren't included in your JDM/EDM console.) Apply the ebrake and you can carefully lift it out of place over the ebrake and out of the car. The SRS module is under here so be especially careful. Nothing has ever happened to me, but I imagine you don't want to fool around with the module that controls your airbag's deployment. Its also worth noting that the wires encased in yellow tubing are the SRS wires and also shouldn't be messed with or tapped for power.

Now we've got to get that ebrake off. The handle is attached at two points directly to the chassis. If my memory serves me right, they were 10mm bolts. Upon removing the hand brake, you'll find a sensor than had been grounded to the chassis as well. You'll need to tape this off so it doesn't ground itself because if it does, it will illuminate your 'brake' light for no reason.


Now the back of your hand brake must be removed as well before it will lift out. If you look where the rod from hand brake connects with the bracket right before it slips under your back rug, you'll notice theres a nut threaded on the rod:


Ordinarily this nut is there to adjust the tension to your drum brakes. We'll be taking it all the way off. All you have to do is get a wrench and unscrew it. The nut and spring will pop off and you can now lift the hand brake out of the way. Its a good idea to hang onto the handbrake for passing inspection. Once you get the hand brake out and the sensor taped off, we can move on.

Now take out your radio and remove the USDM climate control. If you have the factory radio, I believe its just two screws beneath the unit and it will pull out. The climate control has two screws that are on a 45 degree angle beneath it accessible from the radio cavity. Once these two screws are out, the climate control pulls right out. Gentle prying with your small flathead screw driver may be necessary to get it started.

Now you have a choice. You can either replace your forward console framing or you can skip this step and squeeze the JDM radio brackets into place. The reason I give this step is because many people get JDM consoles in colors that don't match their interior so they install in a kind of mismatch. If you don't wish to change this forward framing because your new console does match your interior or you simply don't mind the mismatch between the forward framing and the back armrest then skip this step. USDM and JDM forward framing is identical. It is NOT necessary that you swap them.

That said, those of you keeping your forward console framing will still have to choose one side to remove so theres room to remove the old radio brackets and put the new ones in. I think the passenger side is slightly easier but if you have experience removing the driver side for any reason, go with what you know. It won't be noted in the text below for you but once you remove the three main screws holding the console framing, you only need to pull the panel back to get the old brackets out and the new brackets in. You do not need to remove it completely.

Driver side console framing:
Now. To swap console framing, you'll need to remove the under steering wheel panel and glove box. Lets start on the driver side. There are two screws you need to remove towards that back, note the pictures:



Now you need to remove one screw behind the dimmer module. To get at it, you'll need to gently pry this module out from the bottom with a small flat head screw driver.

Now remove the screw:


And now the panel is free. There is however a clip next to the ignition column holding it back. You'll need to grab the right side of the panel around the clip and give it a good yank to free the panel. Now we can remove the driver side forward console framing. There are three screws at the front(in green) and the clipping point for your under driver panel(in red):

And one screw at the back:


The framing is now free from the chassis but it is still secured by the USDM radio brackets. On either side of the brackets, there are five screws to remove. Three on the main assembly and two on the lower assembly. The upper assembly:

The lower assembly:


Now you can remove the forward framing. We should now just get the USDM radio harness out of the way. Remove the five screws on the passenger side and pull the USDM brackets out. Put your new JDM brackets in place and screw them into your new driver side console framing only. Now replace the under steering wheel panel using the reverse directions of those above.

Passenger side console framing:
Now we need to get at the passenger side framing. Remove everything from your glove box then remove these three screws:

Note their foolish design:


You need to loosen them carefully because too much pressure will just push the plastic screw back into place. Once the screw is most of the way out, you can pull the whole thing out with needle nosed pliers. The panel just falls out of place and you can let it rest there. Go into the glove box and peal down this covering by prying next to the clips with your flathead screw driver:


Now remove this clip by pushing down on the release at the top:


Now close the glove box back up and remove these four screws:


When these four screws are out, the glove box will fall out once you pull the handle as if to open. You can just leave it right there. Now remove these two screws:


Note: this small panel is held in my an incredibly strong clip. I could not get the clip out. Luckily, we only need to pull it to the side to get at the three screws on this side of the car:


Remove those three screws and the screw on the other end of the console framing and pull this piece of framing out. Replace the panel with your new panel and screw it into the car as well as the JDM brackets. Now replace the glove box in reverse order of the steps above.

Now we're going to get the new JDM armrest in the car. Rest it as the old armrest was sitting while the screws were out. Before we screw it in, we should hook up the new cigarette lighter. This is a simple matter of running wires. The best place to get power is the harness for your front cigarette lighter. Bare with me here because my cigarette lighter harness was butchered the guy that installed my first stereo so I don't know how its powered. I do know that it will have an ignition power, a head lamp power(becomes 12v power when the headlights are on) and a ground (and maybe a battery power too, not sure). Use your power testing meter to determine which is which and be careful; the headlight power will appear to be a ground while the headlights are off. Once you figure out whats what, connect the three needed wires in the best way you see fit. You may be able to lift the tab and fit the old wires and these new wires in the old harness or you may have to snip the harness and do a bit of crimping. If you need ideas, this is what my front lighter looks like:


Now tilt your armrest back so you can get at the rear lighter harness and run your wires to the back cigarette lighter. When you cut the wires, make sure you have enough room to reach the lighter and a good bit of slack for crimping. This harness I CAN tell you what everything does. The white/blue is the ignition power, the red is headlight power and the black is ground:


Now gently place the armrest in position and screw in the two forward screws. The armrest may get caught on something in the back that you'll have to lift it over. Just be gentle and don't simply muscle it into position. Once again move your seats all the way forward and replace the two back screws. There are two things to note when replacing these back screws: 1) the white plastic piece you are screwing into is plastic and theres no need to over screw and 2) the metal bracket the white thing is on is movable. If you pull at the bottom, it will move in a spring loaded type fashion. Once these two screws are in you can replace the back panel (These back panels are interchangeable with the USDM panels in case you're wondering).

Now we're going to put in your slim climate control and radio. This was very difficult for me for two reasons. My radio cavity was a mess and wires from all over were in my way and the transmission grounding point was in my radios way. It may have been because my radio specifically was longer than intended but I'm not sure. In any event, I ended up moving that transmission ground to the grounds just in front of the shifter and hammering down the two raised grounds:


You'll have to decide whats best for you. I'm not going to show you how to crimp your radio harness together because I didn't do a great job and you should learn from somebody else. You should hook up your radio now though. Then wire up the climate control fan. USDM legends don't have a place for this but its a simple ignition power and ground.

As you can see the blue is positive and the other is negative. If you get it backwards, the fan just won't spin. Not the end of the world. You can either splice the power in with the radio or with the cigarette lighters. Choose whats more convenient for you.

What you're going to have to do before we fit the radio in is pull down the climate control harness from the top cavity. Its the biggest of the three up there. Unfortunately, they're all connected a few inches back and we need both the clock harness and the hazard harness where they are. Pull the climate control harness down through the back and connect it as you push your radio in. You will probably have to plug the harness in where you can't see it well. This is ok. See with your hands to get the harness in and out.

Once everything is hooked up, push the radio back and screw in first the top two screws then the bottom. Note: the bottom is actually adjustable. You can move it up and down as necessary. Once this is all taken care of, screw in your vents. If you figure out a ducting solution, do take some pictures and let me know how it went. Remember guys, all these tabs are plastic and replacing these parts is very hard. Once the screw stops turning, theres no need at all to screw it tight. I promise nothing is going anywhere.

Now all thats left to do is hook up the clock and hazards. Here is a diagram for how the clock is wired:

The only pins we need to worry about are 2, 3 and 5. Pin 2 is ignition power, pin 3 is ground and pin 5 is all the time power. All of those can be found in your old clock harness. Use your power meter to be certain exactly which pin is which in your old clock harness remembering that one is a headlight power.

Now for the hazards. This is actually one of those things I didn't do myself so I'll have to leave you to your own ends to figure it out. Shaar took a USDM hazard button and put its guts into the JDM hazard button. This makes it so our hazard harnesses will plug right in. You however have a hazard harness that will not fit. You can either try to do as shaar did for my hazard button or you can try to crimp the wires from the USDM harness into the JDM hazard button. There are five wires on both, they may even be color coded identically. To start you off, I can tell you that the middle pin on the USDM harness is an all the time power. Beyond that you'll need to get creative.

Before everything is working we have to do just one last thing. Block off the remaining section of your upper ducts. You won't be able to direct your center vents at you, but air flow will still be good through out the car and at the very least, ice cold air won't be dumping into your radio cavity. Check it out:


Place your forward bulwood down first. Put your USDM shifter bezel back in place. Hook up your seat heater controls then put the back burlwood down. It will snap into place and thats it.

YOU'RE DONE!!
It took me eight months to get my console in the shape its in and I'm still working on completing a few things. Hopefully with the help of this DIY, I've drastically cut that figure down for you. As I write this DIY, I am the only person to my knowledge in North America that has a completely swapped JDM navi console in my legend. If you've completed this, that makes only two of us. Feels good to be so unique, doesn't it? Enjoy the end product:
__________________
.:JDM/EDM Non-Navi DIY:.
.:JDM Navi Console DIY:.
.:Cluster/Speedo Replacement DIY:.

I think OEM is the best look. I just don't happen to think any of the various arrangements of OEM got it exactly right all at once
Pinyix is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 08-18-07, 10:28 AM   #2 (permalink)
Keeper of Keys
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Mill Valley, CA (NorthBay Area)
Posts: 587


Car 1: 04 Mercedes C Class AMG
Car 2: 99 Acura TL
Car 3: 03 E320 Mercedes


iTrader Score: 3 reviews
Send a message via AIM to OverDrive Send a message via MSN to OverDrive
Aw very nice dude, I hope you didn't stay up all night writing that now all we need is a good place to get the entire JDM set and then were set
__________________
1991 Acura Legend 3.5 OD Edition

Last edited by OverDrive; 08-18-07 at 11:45 AM.
OverDrive is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-18-07, 10:53 AM   #3 (permalink)
Banned
Autobahn Champion, Drive and Dodge Champion, Highway Hunter Champion
 
Alperovich's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Highland park, il
Posts: 14,692


iTrader Score: 24 reviews
Send a message via AIM to Alperovich Send a message via MSN to Alperovich
good work! if i ever get a auto, i think i might have to get a JDM console!



Alperovich is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Old 08-18-07, 01:42 PM   #4 (permalink)
Registered User
Flash Poker Champion, Fucking Killer Champion
 
Blingting's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 2,748


Car 1: 1993 Acura Legend Sedan LS


iTrader Score: 33 reviews
Thumbs up awesome work!

Thank you Ken, this is gonna help me a whole lot. I really appreciate this!


EDIT: I've really been looking forward to this, and man I just gotta say THANKS AGAIN..

Last edited by Blingting; 08-19-07 at 02:44 AM.
Blingting is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-18-07, 01:50 PM   #5 (permalink)
Registered User
 
FF Drifter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 3,368


Car 1: KA7 Legend sedan, 5 speed manual


iTrader Score: 1 reviews
Does the navigation actually work in the U.S., or are you simply using the display for other things?
__________________


-8000K HID low-beams/PIAA Spark 8000 high-beams/PIAA Plasma GT-X corners
-Type II brakes/some weight reduction/new tires every 4-6 months
-NA1 NSX wheels: Kumho Ecsta SPT 225/50V-16R in front, Kumho Ecsta ASX 205/60V-15R in rear
-Custom built six-puck kevlar clutch/Lightened (aluminum) pulleys
-[Mugen/Showa] suspension with remote-adjustable dampers
-C35A1/C32A1 hybrid swap; smog legal (by GreenLight Auto)
FF Drifter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-18-07, 04:02 PM   #6 (permalink)
I Am Not Anderson Cooper
 
Double Glow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Roanoke, VA
Posts: 4,644


Car 1: 94 Legend L Sedan
Car 2: 94 Honda Civic Dx


iTrader Score: 2 reviews
Send a message via AIM to Double Glow
beautifull!
__________________
My Myspace&My Facebook
Need a Sig? PM Me with link to your photos and il hook you up! - "The Sig Whisperer"
Double Glow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-18-07, 04:27 PM   #7 (permalink)
Ken
Registered User
Heli Attack 2 Champion
 
Ken's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Land of the Far Left
Posts: 8,258


Car 1: 94 6-speed - RIP


iTrader Score: 6 reviews
Send a message via AIM to Ken
Quote:
Originally Posted by FF Drifter View Post
Does the navigation actually work in the U.S., or are you simply using the display for other things?
he has a whole different screen put in there.


btw, the DIY is great!
__________________
. k e n
Ken is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-18-07, 11:25 PM   #8 (permalink)
Insert key, crank, BHG.
 
Pinyix's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 4,377


Car 1: '92 LS "December"
Car 2: 6MT Canterbury Coupe


iTrader Score: 16 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by OverDrive View Post
Aw very nice dude, I hope you didn't stay up all night writing that now all we need is a good place to get the entire JDM set and then were set
Nah. I copied my non-navi DIY and added to it. Took me about 2 hours this morning. I had been putting it off for a long time. The hard part was taking the pictures.

Quote:
Originally Posted by FF Drifter View Post
Does the navigation actually work in the U.S., or are you simply using the display for other things?
The old navigation unit (which I don't have) only had maps for Japan. It was based on accelerometers instead of satellite links. Further more, it had components in the dash, trunk and engine bay. The whole design is both ingenious and barbaric. Though everyone things I have navigation, I in fact, do not. The LCD is hooked up to a DVD player headunit. Some day when I have the money I may put a carputer in the car but that is no time soon.

Glad you guys like the write up.
__________________
.:JDM/EDM Non-Navi DIY:.
.:JDM Navi Console DIY:.
.:Cluster/Speedo Replacement DIY:.

I think OEM is the best look. I just don't happen to think any of the various arrangements of OEM got it exactly right all at once
Pinyix is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-07, 06:14 AM   #9 (permalink)
Registered User
 
GoldenCoupe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 497


Car 1: 1993 Cashmere Silver LS Coupe


iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Send a message via AIM to GoldenCoupe
This is great info, I'd love to do this someday, not sure why, I guess it would just be cool!! Has anyone officially installed a JDM ebrake?
__________________
93 Cashmere Silver LS Coupe

My Legend's sad
GoldenCoupe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-07, 08:00 AM   #10 (permalink)
Registered User
 
AllCammedUp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Shelbyville, KY
Posts: 321


Car 1: 1991 LS Sedan


iTrader Score: 4 reviews
Pinyix,

Thanks for taking the time to put this together, as it's a huge help.

I hope you are open to a few PM's down the road. I have my entire JDM navi set in a box waiting to go in as soon as I finish with my BHG repair. I tell myself that I'm going to get started on it soon, but in reality, it'll be a while before I can devote the time to doing this mod, so I'll PM you at some point, if that's OK.

I'm still trying to locate a touchscreen that will fit the cavity correctly.
__________________
Thanks,
Whitney
AllCammedUp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-07, 08:30 AM   #11 (permalink)
Insert key, crank, BHG.
 
Pinyix's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 4,377


Car 1: '92 LS "December"
Car 2: 6MT Canterbury Coupe


iTrader Score: 16 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenCoupe View Post
This is great info, I'd love to do this someday, not sure why, I guess it would just be cool!! Has anyone officially installed a JDM ebrake?
We've determined the JDM foot brake won't work due to the fuse box in our USDM legends. People have looked into electronic brake actuators but no luck yet. For now, I just avoid parking on hills.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AllCammedUp View Post
Pinyix,

Thanks for taking the time to put this together, as it's a huge help.

I hope you are open to a few PM's down the road. I have my entire JDM navi set in a box waiting to go in as soon as I finish with my BHG repair. I tell myself that I'm going to get started on it soon, but in reality, it'll be a while before I can devote the time to doing this mod, so I'll PM you at some point, if that's OK.

I'm still trying to locate a touchscreen that will fit the cavity correctly.
I did my best to foresee any issues you might have but if you need help, I'm always here.
__________________
.:JDM/EDM Non-Navi DIY:.
.:JDM Navi Console DIY:.
.:Cluster/Speedo Replacement DIY:.

I think OEM is the best look. I just don't happen to think any of the various arrangements of OEM got it exactly right all at once
Pinyix is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-07, 06:16 AM   #12 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: London, UK
Posts: 244


Car 1: 91 Legend Coupe - Solaris Silver
Car 2: 95 Legend Coupe - BB


iTrader Score: 2 reviews
JDM Coupe

Thanks for the DIY writeup Pinyix....a great help!!!

I'm just starting removing a JDM console from a JDM coupe I picked up for parts. This is to go into my EDM coupe.

My plan is to put in a GPS double DIN headunit....I've got the sat nav bezel off at the moment but that jap sat nav is held fast ...but its coming out one way or the other!

Single DIN Holder
As I'm not putting the old single head unit into my EDM coupe, I need some sort of plate I guess thats got a holder I guess. Anyone know where the double draw one in the pic comes from ? Is that a cuppy or just a twin drawer. Sure looks factory to me so prob no show of getting one. Other options ?

Slim line Air con
Top lugs broke as I unscrewed that...Seen some on ebay the same. Whats the best way to fix these...washers and glue ?

Also I hoping to hook up the top ducts so will post pics if its possible

Foot brake
I'd sell everthing needed to install in a US coupe if its possible and someone is keen

Burlwood
The jury is out on if now is the time to paint this. My idea is to sand it back and finish it in a semi gloss / matt black. Anyone tried this ?
Attached Thumbnails
JDM Navigation Console DIY-legend-cons.jpg  
Bocsta is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-07, 08:49 AM   #13 (permalink)
Insert key, crank, BHG.
 
Pinyix's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 4,377


Car 1: '92 LS "December"
Car 2: 6MT Canterbury Coupe


iTrader Score: 16 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bocsta View Post
Thanks for the DIY writeup Pinyix....a great help!!!

I'm just starting removing a JDM console from a JDM coupe I picked up for parts. This is to go into my EDM coupe.

My plan is to put in a GPS double DIN headunit....I've got the sat nav bezel off at the moment but that jap sat nav is held fast ...but its coming out one way or the other!

Single DIN Holder
As I'm not putting the old single head unit into my EDM coupe, I need some sort of plate I guess thats got a holder I guess. Anyone know where the double draw one in the pic comes from ? Is that a cuppy or just a twin drawer. Sure looks factory to me so prob no show of getting one. Other options ?

Slim line Air con
Top lugs broke as I unscrewed that...Seen some on ebay the same. Whats the best way to fix these...washers and glue ?

Also I hoping to hook up the top ducts so will post pics if its possible

Foot brake
I'd sell everthing needed to install in a US coupe if its possible and someone is keen

Burlwood
The jury is out on if now is the time to paint this. My idea is to sand it back and finish it in a semi gloss / matt black. Anyone tried this ?
I know ford taurus' have single din cup/coin holders but they don't have wood on the front. Its probably just fake wood anyway, I wouldn't be surprised if you could find it on ebay. As for the broken tabs, thats a tough one. Either really smaller washers and glue or large washers you screw tight over whats left of the tabs would be my first tries.

Thats a nice offer on the foot brake but I've already got one that I can't get installed. I guess in a RHD legend its not an issue because the fuse box is next to the gas pedal(correct me if thats wrong) but in a LHD legend, the foot brake would be right on top of the fuse box and you'd have to reroute wires and do all kinds of crazy things to get the brake to mount.

I have seen people sand down the wood panels and paint them but it doesn't look all that good in my opinion. It may be better than fauxwood but not burlwood and definitely not the uber rare JDM navi burlwood. If you want to sand down and repaint the burlwood, I've got some really worn out navi burlwood that I'll trade you for (with some cash on top for you of course). It needs to be sanded down anyway. Let me know if you're interested. Its your wood to sand of course but I'd hate to see you do it to a good set of wood.

Good luck getting that navi unit out. Technically its not a sat nav though, it was based on accelerometers, not satellites. And let us know how hooking up those lower center vents go. Be sure to take pictures along the way and share when you're done!
__________________
.:JDM/EDM Non-Navi DIY:.
.:JDM Navi Console DIY:.
.:Cluster/Speedo Replacement DIY:.

I think OEM is the best look. I just don't happen to think any of the various arrangements of OEM got it exactly right all at once
Pinyix is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-07, 09:47 AM   #14 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: London, UK
Posts: 244


Car 1: 91 Legend Coupe - Solaris Silver
Car 2: 95 Legend Coupe - BB


iTrader Score: 2 reviews
I thought some forum members had installed a foot brake ? Without seeing a LHD hard to tell for me.....RHD fuse box is on the inside side wall against the door side.

From the pics I posted you can see the release and actual pedal...what do youhave there in a LHD ? How do you pass annual testing without a handbrake (or footbrake in this case)?

May take you up on the Burlwood. Its just a lighter colour than my EDM burlwood and doesnt look as good. Does your spare burlwood have any chips on it ?

Things have sure moved on in the electronics world since 91 when that sat nav unit was developed. There is a whole section in the boot..half of the back section of the boot under the shelf is full of electronic crap...(which i presume is for the sat nav). Interesting though I think it was the first car in the world to have sat nav or a lower verison of what we have today!
Bocsta is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-07, 10:36 AM   #15 (permalink)
Insert key, crank, BHG.
 
Pinyix's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 4,377


Car 1: '92 LS "December"
Car 2: 6MT Canterbury Coupe


iTrader Score: 16 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bocsta View Post
I thought some forum members had installed a foot brake ? Without seeing a LHD hard to tell for me.....RHD fuse box is on the inside side wall against the door side.

From the pics I posted you can see the release and actual pedal...what do youhave there in a LHD ? How do you pass annual testing without a handbrake (or footbrake in this case)?

May take you up on the Burlwood. Its just a lighter colour than my EDM burlwood and doesnt look as good. Does your spare burlwood have any chips on it ?

Things have sure moved on in the electronics world since 91 when that sat nav unit was developed. There is a whole section in the boot..half of the back section of the boot under the shelf is full of electronic crap...(which i presume is for the sat nav). Interesting though I think it was the first car in the world to have sat nav or a lower verison of what we have today!
Theres nothing there but I've seen a bunch of people including a legend enthusiast mechanic and they've all told me they can't do it because of the proximity to the fuse box. I have inspection every other year. When the next one rolls around, I'll just throw my old ebrake on for a day. It won't look pretty, but it doesn't have to to pass. The only thing I really have to worry about is parking on hills.

I believe it was the first navigation system offered in a car. It was available as early as 1990 too. Its up in the air if honda actually invented automated navigation but theres a lot of information on wikipedia.

I'm PMing you about the burlwood.
__________________
.:JDM/EDM Non-Navi DIY:.
.:JDM Navi Console DIY:.
.:Cluster/Speedo Replacement DIY:.

I think OEM is the best look. I just don't happen to think any of the various arrangements of OEM got it exactly right all at once
Pinyix is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  The Acura Legend & Acura RL Forum > Shop Talk > DIYs


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
JDM/EDM non-navi console DIY Pinyix DIYs 10 08-17-07 08:54 PM
Can someone post a DIY JDM console install? legendg27 Second Generation Legend (1991-1995) 11 06-08-07 10:04 AM
JDM FULL Navigation System and Trim/Console...HELP! jdmisme Second Generation Legend (1991-1995) 23 03-19-07 12:32 PM
Looks like someone got a steal! JDM Navigation & Console bl420 Second Generation Legend (1991-1995) 44 02-16-07 03:19 PM
FS: Complete JDM Navigation Console Shaar OEM Parts 33 12-30-06 10:31 PM

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:29 PM.



Powered by vBulletin®. Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
© AutoGuide