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First Generation Legend (1986-1990) Discuss the 1st Generation Honda/Acura Legend (US 8

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Old 05-21-08, 09:07 AM   #1 (permalink)
 
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Question Brake lights want to stay on - not the switch!

Hello all! This is my first post on A-L, so please don't bite! ;-)

Anyway, I recently replaced my battery, which had been in use since I bought my 1987 Legend in 2002. It wouldn't hold a charge.

After the battery was replaced, the brake lights stayed on. Walmart (where I got the new battery) said that that was what caused the battery to ultimately fail, but I hadn't experienced that problem before. (I have had problems with the tach - it never worked, the cruise control - worked intermittedly for a while and then quit, and the fan - A/C and heat work but the air doesn't get blown.)

My solution has been to remove the fuse which controls the brake lights, but this also disables the horn, and no brake lights and no horn mean it's technically not road-worthy or whatever. I haven't gotten a fix-it ticket yet, but inspection is due in September, so I need to have it fixed by then.

Google searches have turned up (including here!) that a common problem is that a switch under the brake pedal gets stuck. I looked under there and saw no such "switch", but there is a thing with wires that plugs into the top of the pedal - I figure this is the Legend's equivalent, what it uses to track pedal pushes. (Correct me if I'm wrong - cars aren't my specialty by any means.)

Another problem: The fuse for my interior lights and cigarette lighter keeps blowing. It actually blew when I first got it, and a friend had me put a 25A fuse in, instead of the 20 it calls for. Well the 25 blew. I stuck a 20 in there, and it blew, too, so I've left it alone.

I figure I'm gonna run into more problems if I don't get this fixed.

Also, any ideas what it'll cost to get the electrical problems (all of them - including tach, cruise control, and fan) right?
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Old 05-21-08, 09:34 AM   #2 (permalink)
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sounds like you have a major electrical problem. it could be as simple as a bad ground.

have you tested that switch for the brake lights?? I don't have a G1 electrial diogram to help out more but i'm sure some of the G1 guys will come in here with better suggestions.



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Old 05-21-08, 01:00 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Yeah youve got a serious problem with the interior lights and lighter circuit.

I would check to be sure that there is nothing in the cigarette lighter socket, I once had a dime fall into my Jag's socket and it blew the fuse and I didnt know why for a few days till I actually took the time to look in there...

Otherwise you've probably got a short somewhere and may have to go hunting Also, friends dont let friends use higher amp fuses....please be safe and dont ever replace a blown fuse with one rated for higher amps.


Regarding the brake lights, yes, if you follow the brake pedal all the way up the arm, you will find a cylindrical object with a little button facing the firewall. When the pedal is pushed, the button pops out, and the brake lights come on....when the pedal comes back, the button is pushed back in and the lights go off....there is a little plastic plug on the pedal arm that pushes the switch back in....this plastic plug is notorious for breaking and falling out....thus allowing the button to stay OUT all the time and the brake lights are ALWAYS on....see if this is your problem...
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Old 05-21-08, 05:05 PM   #4 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nathan J View Post

>Had problems with the tach - it never worked.

>The cruise control - worked intermittedly for a while and then quit.

>The fan - A/C and heat work but the air doesn't get blown.

>The fuse for my interior lights and cigarette lighter keeps blowing.
Here are some possible root cause(s)...

>Tach issue; disconnected cable(s), faulty/bad speed sensor.

>CC issue; bad set/resume switch on the steering wheel, faulty/bad connection from slip ring.

>Fan issue; dead blower motor

>Electrical short issue; bad courtesy light switch or relay
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Old 05-21-08, 05:20 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Get yourself a multimeter cause you have readings to take. Take off that switch by the brake pedal and measure the resistance across it when its pushed in. If it stays at little to no resistance, the switch is shorted. Thats prolly your problem.

NEVER PUT A HIGHER AMP FUSE IN!!! BAD!!! Have you ever seen a campfire? Well thats what can happen except imagine instead of wood on fire its your car.

Remove any interior bulbs and anything else in the interior lights circuit. Disconnect your battery and check the resistance across where that 20 amp fuse SHOULD BE. If its low, you got yourself a short and thats gonna suck ass.
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Old 05-21-08, 11:43 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Two things you need.

One: is a wiring diagram. Even a cheap service manual should have one. Check your local library.

Two: make sure your battery is fully charged before troubleshooting.
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Old 08-18-18, 04:02 PM   #7 (permalink)
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brake light failure sensor

I also have this problem. I've concluded I have a "short" in the system and that the brake light switch is not the problem. I think that maybe my brake light failure sensors have shorted.(had the brake lamp light on since I bought it 6 years ago). I plan on buying these but cant find them anywhere. any advice is really appreciated.
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Old 09-17-19, 08:59 PM   #8 (permalink)
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The brake light switch is the only switch connected to the brake pedal. Most likely replacing it will solve your brake light issue.
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Old 09-17-19, 09:01 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Also check the connection & circuit boards to both brake lamps.
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