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First Generation Legend (1986-1990) Discuss the 1st Generation Honda/Acura Legend (US 8

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Old 08-27-02, 02:47 PM   #1 (permalink)
 
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how to remove / install starter?

hey all,

its time to replace the starter. i've located it and by the look of things, its going to tricky getting it out. there are all kinds of hoses and stuff in the way. i know right off the bat im going to have to take off the air filter [no big deal].

any suggestions / tips on what hoses to disconnect / not disconnect etc...I can't even SEE the mounting bolts so this is giong to be interesting.

any tips or suggestions on removal / install are appreciated

thank you

jd
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Old 08-27-02, 10:50 PM   #2 (permalink)
 
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There are only two bolts holing the starter in , mine were tighter then hell, I had better luck getting to them by jacking the car up and removing the drivers side front wheel, then use a long extention and a 14 mm socket to get to the bolts. Don't forget to dissconnect the battery and take the cables off the starter, Hope this helps,
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Old 08-27-02, 11:29 PM   #3 (permalink)
 
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I found I could reach it from above, not needing to go through the side. Although this will make a couple of the bolts easier.

Definatley remove the air filter and piping up to the Throttle body.
Also disconnect the Cable running from the Distributor to the coil.
Apart from that, have a decent light handy!

Before you do replace it, just check that all the bushes are intact, and soldered to the frame. Quite often the bushes have worn, or have had the connections broken.
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Old 09-01-02, 08:42 PM   #4 (permalink)
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JD,
I suspect that I have to replace my starter in my 90 legend soon. Lately in the mornings when I turn the key, it would just make a clicking sound but engine does not turn over. After second or third try, it'll crank as normal and start.

Did you buy new or rebuilt starter and what was cost? Any step by step instructions to take out and reassemble would greatly be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 09-04-02, 06:52 AM   #5 (permalink)
 
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I just replaced my starter on sunday. The bolts were in very tight but I managed to get them out after figuring out what to use. The only thing I removed were the coil wires.
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Old 09-05-02, 01:31 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Hartman,
Did you buy a new starter or rebuilt it yourself?
I've been quoted a rebuilt starter for $230 bucks cdn. I've also been told you could buy a rebuilt kit for $50 bucks. What tools did you use - is a simple rachet and socket set good enough? How long does the job take?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 09-05-02, 04:25 PM   #7 (permalink)
 
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so it wasnt the starter....

Ok,

I dropped a rebuilt starter into my car. it cost 95.00 not including the core from a local parts store. i kept my core because it looks like its not the starter.

first thing i have to mention, is that my car still doesnt start. at this point im thinking of taking it into a shop to see whats wrong. maybe the ignition? its still making the same machine/grind sound it did before and starts sometimes but not others.

as far as steps for taking the starter out...

1. disconnect battery
2. take out air intake
3. unplug 2 coolant lines under air intake [make sure you have plugs so coolant doesn't go everywhere.]
4. disconnect both wires that lead from battery to starter
5. using a 14mm fitting, disconnect both bolts on starter.

MAKE SURE you are taking off the starter bolts. the lower bolt is really hard to see [you can't really, from the top of the car] so you have to feel your way around there.] there is another bolt [engine/tranny mount bolt] you will need to avoid.

you will know you ahve the right bolts because the starter should essentially fall right out.

i'd recommend a long extension when using the ratchet [i used a 6" extension"] because that lower bolt will be difficult without it.
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Old 09-06-02, 07:04 AM   #8 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by 90CoupefromCanada
Hartman,
Did you buy a new starter or rebuilt it yourself?
I've been quoted a rebuilt starter for $230 bucks cdn. I've also been told you could buy a rebuilt kit for $50 bucks. What tools did you use - is a simple rachet and socket set good enough? How long does the job take?

Thanks in advance.
I got my starter from the wreckers for 70$ with a life time warranty. All I used was a 1/2 " rachet, short extension and an impact 14mm socket. I braced the opposite side of the extension with a tire bar by puting it between the extension and the trany so it would not tilt when I was pulling on the rachet. After going through the learning curve on my first attempt and breaking two none inpact sockets I could probabley do this job in less than 1/2 hour now.
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Old 09-06-02, 11:23 AM   #9 (permalink)
 
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If it's still making a grinding noise when the starter is engaged then it I'd bet you need the ring gear replaced. Bummer as that entails removal of the transmission. It starts sometimes because it catches at an area where the teeth are good, when it doesn't or grinds it's because it caught at a place where the teeth are bad. It's entirely possible your old starter was going out and that's what caused this problem.
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Old 09-09-02, 02:47 PM   #10 (permalink)
 
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i appreciate the tip. not sure if it matters, but the old starters 'teeth' or 'gear' didnt look worn at all.

would it only be the ring gear that would show wear?

also, when it doesnt start it usually doesnt even turn [the motor].
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Old 09-09-02, 03:15 PM   #11 (permalink)
 
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That's a whole 'nuther matter! Assuming the battery is good then you need to eliminate a few things. Turn on the radio and headlamps, start the car, does the radio go off or the headlamps get real dim? If that's good then the next thing I'd check would be the starter relay, under the left side of the dash. Off the top of my head those are the only two things I can think of that would cause your problem assuming that both starters don't have bad solenoids.
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Old 09-09-02, 03:18 PM   #12 (permalink)
 
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Oops, almost forgot, a failing clutch safety switch could also be the culprit. Finally, and least likely, would be the ignition switch itself. Intermittent problems are the most difficult to diagnose. I usually save myself time and start replacing parts starting with the least expensive until the problem is solved - on my own car that works good since I don't mind sometimes replacing a good part.
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Old 09-13-02, 04:29 PM   #13 (permalink)
 
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I've been having this same intermittent starting problem- I finally got it to start (again after it wouldn't for a week) and drove it over to the closest mechanic. They called me an hour later saying its starting fine, and then called back ten mintues later to say now they're having problems.

I'm hoping its just the starter...but I'm assuming that this isn't going to completely fix the problem. If this is the case I'm thinking the PGM-FI relay is next to be replaced. Is this the same thing as the starter relay?

UPDATE: just spoke with the local Acura dealer. The guy said an old starter with worn contacts or a faulty main relay can cause the same intermittent starting problems. SO, I guess I'll begin with the starter cause its the original anyway.

Last edited by legendHI; 09-13-02 at 04:43 PM.
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Old 09-14-02, 08:03 PM   #14 (permalink)
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How many miles do you have on your acura before your starter needed replacing?

LegendHi,
Just wondering cause I have 120,000 miles on my 90 legend and I think the original starter is finally going on me.
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Old 09-14-02, 09:58 PM   #15 (permalink)
 
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I recently had a similiar problem with my 90 coupe. One day after driving to a local store, 15 mins later car would not start. Battery was good (lights, horn,radio). Thought it was the main relay cause I did not hear the distinct double clicks when you turn the ignition. Was about to tow the car home and it started up. Over the next few days I left it in the driveway and tried to start it every evening. Sometimes it would start and sometimes not. Each time it would not, I did not here the main relay kick in. So I ordered a main relay and when I replaced it, it did not start. So then I ordered a ignition switch harness ( acura calls it a steering switch harness), this is the harness that goes from the back of the ignition key cylinder inside your steering column to a 7 pin male plug on the fuse box. I swap out this piece and she still does not start. By this time I'm cursing and I start moving the steering switch harness while the key is in the II position and I hear the main relay catch. As I move this harness roughly, I can hear the double clicks come on and she would start. I let go of the harness, she would die. I realize that it's not the main relay or the steering switch harness but the fuse box connection to where the 7 pin steering switch harness plugs into. I don't want to spend any more money on parts so I disconnect the battery, terminate the airbag electrical harness ( you need to do this so the airbag does not accidently deploy with a short. Terminating plug is clipped under the steering column top panel) Unplug all harness wires from the fuse box, unbolt fuse box and proceeded to remove all fuses. The fuse box is welded shut with plastic tabs. I figured worse that can happen is that I replace the fuse box. I drilled out the plastic welds and opened the fuse box. The fuse box is constructed of layers of solid copper contacts, meaning no circuit boards to open or short. I took it apart, put it back together and hooked everything back up and now the car starts everytime. I think what happens is if the harness plugs are pulled out roughly (cause it's hard to press the tabs and pull them out) the copper contacts that make up the fuse box in layers, might slightly loosen and not sit right creating an open in the line. (If you had a short, it would blow the fuse or melt the box).
All in all, I would first see if you hear the main relay kick in with the two clicks when you turn the ignition to start. If you do not hear the clicks but have full juice from the battery, remove the lower dash panel (2 screws and three electrical connectors) follow the steering switch harness to the fuse box and leave your key in the on position and just "LIGHTLY" jiggle the harness to see if you the main relay kicks in. If not, try replacing your main relay first. Hope this helps.....
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