Zoom, Zoom,
See below (the last paragraph) for the info I promised to post for you on venting the main relay. See http://techauto.tripod.com/mainrelaysolder.htm for the actual pictures that come along with the text.
I went down the path of venting after I began experiencing the no-start when hot problem AND decided that fixing the solder joints was beyond my capabilities. I ran across the info below and latched on to the portion that I knew was within my capabilities -- i.e., drilling holes in a plasting casing. I drilled about four or so holes, and the no-start when hot problem has not re-appeared.
However, I am not qualified to say whether this venting fix is viable or smart to do. For me, it was simple, I had my drill handy, and it allowed me to avoid replacing the main relay. (I, by the way, did not do anything to the solder joints.)
Hope this helps. Best of luck with your auto.
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Honda Accord Main Relay
How to repair the Main Relay.
Figure 1.0
The relay's solder joints crack and separate itself through time and exposure to heat generated by the relay. One of the relay's heat problem is generated heavily by the power consumption from the fuel pump. The best method to repair the main relay is to apply heat and solder to one every part of the joint, especially the part that is associated with the relays. It is advisable to heat a joint with a soldering tip first while supplying solders last. Here's an example. It may even be preferable to remove the old solder and remove the circuit board and recondition the contacts. This should not be attempted with improper equipment as the board will collapse under heat.
How to pry open a main relay:
Stick a small flat head screw driver inside between the wall flap and the relay base, (where a locking edge is at)
Pry it open just slightly
While holding it still, use the same screw driver, pry the other side.
While holding it still (and cleared of the locking edge) pull the relay straight out, or forward.
Pictured below shows that heat may affect the factory prepaired solder joints.
Figure 1.1 This picture shows how several holes may be drilled on the side of the case to vent the flow of heat and allow allow the relay to run cooler. One person have suggested that holes will not affect the relay after new solder application. "The problem lies in the bad solder application by the relay maker [Mitsuba]. Once the the solder joints have been properly repaired the relay should last the life of the car," he mentioned.
------------------------------------
See below (the last paragraph) for the info I promised to post for you on venting the main relay. See http://techauto.tripod.com/mainrelaysolder.htm for the actual pictures that come along with the text.
I went down the path of venting after I began experiencing the no-start when hot problem AND decided that fixing the solder joints was beyond my capabilities. I ran across the info below and latched on to the portion that I knew was within my capabilities -- i.e., drilling holes in a plasting casing. I drilled about four or so holes, and the no-start when hot problem has not re-appeared.
However, I am not qualified to say whether this venting fix is viable or smart to do. For me, it was simple, I had my drill handy, and it allowed me to avoid replacing the main relay. (I, by the way, did not do anything to the solder joints.)
Hope this helps. Best of luck with your auto.
------------------------------------
Honda Accord Main Relay
How to repair the Main Relay.
Figure 1.0
The relay's solder joints crack and separate itself through time and exposure to heat generated by the relay. One of the relay's heat problem is generated heavily by the power consumption from the fuel pump. The best method to repair the main relay is to apply heat and solder to one every part of the joint, especially the part that is associated with the relays. It is advisable to heat a joint with a soldering tip first while supplying solders last. Here's an example. It may even be preferable to remove the old solder and remove the circuit board and recondition the contacts. This should not be attempted with improper equipment as the board will collapse under heat.
How to pry open a main relay:
Stick a small flat head screw driver inside between the wall flap and the relay base, (where a locking edge is at)
Pry it open just slightly
While holding it still, use the same screw driver, pry the other side.
While holding it still (and cleared of the locking edge) pull the relay straight out, or forward.
Pictured below shows that heat may affect the factory prepaired solder joints.
Figure 1.1 This picture shows how several holes may be drilled on the side of the case to vent the flow of heat and allow allow the relay to run cooler. One person have suggested that holes will not affect the relay after new solder application. "The problem lies in the bad solder application by the relay maker [Mitsuba]. Once the the solder joints have been properly repaired the relay should last the life of the car," he mentioned.
------------------------------------