KINGFABIAN

Excellent write up. Now I finally know how to attach the Gentex mirror Ive had sitting in my garage for the past 2-3 years now!

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King of the Bling & Lord of the Blang!

ptan1968

Here is where I've won it from, very common place.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=280055796023

Thanks for your asking,

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MOD's done so far:

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  Gentex mirror installed (02-04-07). Hella Micro DE fog lights (03-10-07). BMW X5 smoke side markers (05-10-07). JDM 1 piece head lights w / DRL. Addco front and rear sway bars

ptan1968

Good luck and remmember to post some pics when you succeed.

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MOD's done so far:

• 
  Gentex mirror installed (02-04-07). Hella Micro DE fog lights (03-10-07). BMW X5 smoke side markers (05-10-07). JDM 1 piece head lights w / DRL. Addco front and rear sway bars

Dreams94coup

can you plzzz tell me how you did the switch for the fog lights... for some odd reason when i did mine the switch stays on constantly and the only way i can turn them off and on is by using the headlights

ptan1968

Sorry for the delay, FYI:

Please follow some threads that I found below, or do a search "fog light switch" under second generation Legend, you'll have a lot of related messages to read for days after days.

OEM fog light switch part #

https://www.acura-legend.com/vbulleti...&highlight=tcs

https://www.acura-legend.com/vbulleti...g+light+switch

Where to buy it from? Delray Acura.

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...1=&inputstate=

OEM fog light switch wiring diagram:



Assuming that you have a Hella Micro DE fog lights kit that come with prewiring harness including fog lights, relay, on/off switch, accessories and installation instruction.



How to use OEM switch instead of fancy hella on/off switch:

1. I went ahead and cut off the hella on/off switch wiring at the end of it (E) picture diagram, stripe off about 2" of insulation, then leave me three wires expose: Black, Yellow and Blue.
2. You can either solder or tap these 3 existing wires from hella on/off switch wirings to the new OEM fog light switch as follow:

Black -> Blue/Red (thick)
Yellow -> Blue/Red (thin)
Blue -> Blue/White

3. Don't forget to connect positive lug of hella wiring(usually red wire) to your positive battery terminal, negative lug to chassis ground (body frame) and splice or solder the blue wire (H) in picture to the corner light red wire (first bulb counts from the head light) too to feed the power from.

I wish I can remove my fog light switch one more time to take a real picture from behind to show you, but unfortunately there 2 very strong metal clips that hold the sw very tight, unless I have to break the inner tap one more time that I'm not willing to do it again which I did before.

Oh, you gotta drill a hole through fire wall to feed this on/off switch wiring control too.

Caution: this method apply for hella micro de only, other brands may have slightly different color codes, so use it as your guide line.

Good luck to you.

ptan1968

PM me if you still have problem.

Dreams94coup

ive tried online sources and even did the steps you did and i still get the same problem.... i dont know anymore

Drizzle359

excellent pics and diy thanks for educating me.

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Shaar

this is an excellent diy. Thank you

Texan_176

How easy was it to get the stock mirror off?

I can't get the screw in mine to budge. It is frozen or torqued to 1,000 lbs/ft. If I have to...can I drill out the factory screw and just get a replacement screw from the junkyard?

In other words, is it possible that I will hurt something in the mounting hardware that will stay on the car by drilling out the OEM screw?

I have Gentex mirrors in 3 of my other cars and LOVE them. Getting one in my Acura would add so much comfort to the car at night. BTW, how firmly does the mirror hold after having filed away some of the mount?

Do you see any vibration or wobble even on rough roads?

Pinyix

I wouldn't recommend drilling... what if you go through your windshield? Try getting some WD-40 on the screw to get it to budge. Worth a shot. There is a bit of vibration on smooth roads but it doesn't get noticeably worse on rough roads. It does however get a bit worse with the windows down. I suspect the problem is a heavy mirror on a double join though, not a loose or weak mounting.

If all else fails and you can figure out how to get the whole mount off, including the mount glued to the windshield, I've got an entire spare off a 97 RL. The windshield shattered and I thought grabbing the mirror would come in handy. Its identical to the legend mirror.

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.:JDM/EDM Non-Navi DIY:.
.:JDM Navi Console DIY:.
.:Cluster/Speedo Replacement DIY:.

I think OEM is the best look. I just don't happen to think any of the various arrangements of OEM got it exactly right all at once

Texan_176

Thanks for the info.

I had taken it to a glass shop in early 07 and they said they could heat up the mount from the outside to try and melt the glue so a wedge style mount could be glued in. However, in about 40% of cases this causes the glass to crack and you need a new windshield to the tune of $249.99. Those SOBs will price it just under the deductable to not deal with the insurance company.

Anyway, he suggested putting a 2 pound weight on a string and parking the car in direct sunlight in the summer to force the mount off. That too is a bad idea IMHO cause the weight and/or mirror with come crashing down on your dash and console if it releases.

How long would you say that screw is?

The philips slots in mine are nearly rounded out from 4 people having tried to get it to turn. Besides, the screw has the metal mount right behind it so you would not go through the glass unless you drilled through it as well.

I will head to the junkyard and find a Legend with a damaged windshield so I can just yank the mount and mirror off to have spare parts.

Oh, instead of a file do you think I could just lay a dropcloth in the car to catch the metal and use an angle grinder to cut the 2 tabs at the bottom off of the stock mount?

CollectiveInk

If anyone's interested. (not mine)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Gente...QQcmdZViewItem

Texan_176

That is a total rip off.

The mirror is the exact same one found in large GM SUVs/Trucks like Tahoe, Suburban, and Silverado.

Junkyards sell them for $5 (if they just price rear views at a flat rate) to $25 on the high end if they are more organized. The temp. sensor is $10-20 at any GM dealer. So this seller made a wire harness....boo freakin hoo....$2 worth of wires and connectors from Home Depot.

Tech support to connect 4 wires? If you can't do that on your own you should not be doing mods to a car to begin with.

I appologize for the flaming but I just hate when people get ripped off and think they got a good deal on something. His parts cost is roughly $20-45 but he priced it at $100....not cool.

All of my Gentex mirrors in my other cars were bought for $5 and two of them the temp sensor I was able to find on the donor cars and got for an additional $2 each. The one temp sensor I had to buy in a Chevy dealer cost me $18.95.

His might be "new" but in these mirrors there really is not any visual or functional difference between new and used.

CollectiveInk

Whew! Glad I didn't buy that then. It just seemed like a bargain compared to the 189-239 most were going for.

Hmm, so you can DIY one from salvage parts. Cool. I'd assume it's gotta come out of a fairly recent vehicle (less than 5 years old?) Might have to look into this further.