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Second Generation Legend (1991-1995)

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Old 04-22-03, 05:47 AM   #1 (permalink)
 
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Unhappy (Another) Overheating Problem- HELP!

Please Help!

I'll type a long story for the benefit of a complete history (please be patient ..

Ive just bought a 1995 Honda Legend Coupe (bought at 103,000kms) about 6 months ago - its been a very expensive relationship already, but Ive always lusted after one for a few years now! Ive had the timing belt and WP done (and other stuff like MC), and recently I had a scary episode where my plastic top tank cracked from overheating, and coolant spilled out.

I want to a proper dealer and got a quote to fix it, but it was too expensive (they wanted A$750 just to fix it). So I went to a cheapo radiator guy. He repaired the top tank - but said the thermostat was okay (I think cos he coudnt get the part quickly enough). I trusted him - that was mistake 1. Predictably, heating problem came back - luckily I caught it overheating again before more damage was done - I also noticed surging in the overflow tank, which didnt go down when it cooled.

This time I did it properly : thermostat replaced and chemical/compression test for the dreaded BHG (luckily passed..for now)- car went okay for around 800kms, but then i noticed overflow tank levels increasing again. I started noticing temp gauge getting a bit unsteady at startup, and heater would take a longtime to kick in when engine was supposed to be warm. Then it started overheating again..stopped car..waited..restarted and temp was steady again. WEIRD. Is this a AIRPOCKET problem in radiator..is that whats causing overflow reservoir levels to go up (now levels are way over MAX levels). I can still drive it for long distances, but I put heater on max just in case. Should I replace the radiator cap? cos isnt it supposed to maintain pressure to suck coolant back in to avoid airpockets? How do I bleed system - using valve or open cap method/rev?

I dont think its BHG..cos no smoke at exhaust and no oil in coolant, or milky oil (I check this obsessively now!). Is it related to my using 98 Octane gas (too much combustion in chambers?) HELP! I have already spent a lot of money and dont wanna spend anymore but I wanna keep my car!
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Old 04-22-03, 09:44 AM   #2 (permalink)
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If the system was not bled at the time of your radiator repair, you have air in your cooling system. These cars are extremely sensitive to air and will do all kinds of weird things when this is the case. Go here for info on how to bleed the system and report back. You may also want to consider buying a replacement radiator such as a Modine for $125-150 and installing it yourself as its not very difficult---I did mine 2 weeks ago. Good luck---
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Old 04-22-03, 10:08 AM   #3 (permalink)
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HEY THERE STEVIERAY

WHERE CAN I GET ONE OF THOSE RADIATORS FOR THAT PRICE I THINKIN I NEED THAT!
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Old 04-22-03, 10:54 AM   #4 (permalink)
 
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Originally posted by stevieray
If the system was not bled at the time of your radiator repair, you have air in your cooling system. These cars are extremely sensitive to air and will do all kinds of weird things when this is the case. Go here for info on how to bleed the system and report back. You may also want to consider buying a replacement radiator such as a Modine for $125-150 and installing it yourself as its not very difficult---I did mine 2 weeks ago. Good luck---
Thanks for the tip! The bleeder valve is so tight..I'll have to find a suitable wrench small enuff to loosen it (clockwise or anti-clockwise?). In the meantime, Ive retopped radiator with surge tank contents, and idled and revved the car for awhile with cap off, and lots and lots of big chunky bubbles came out. I think my radiator is still okay as its relatively new - radiator guy told me its at 90%, though I dont know if its OEM or not. Will try proper bleeding through valve when I get a new radiator cap, and report back.
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Old 04-22-03, 12:04 PM   #5 (permalink)
 
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i had problems with this for about a month, and nobody had an answer.(this was back in the beginnings of this forum.) now we understand the problem. you could have a bad water pump, (mine was leaking and letting air into the system.) but a proper coolant bleed (esp. if its you just replaced a coolant system part) should take car of your problems. make sure you close the valve with a thick rag or something on your hand. and then rev lightly (1-2k rpm)for 2 minutes and repeat. this just makes sure to circulate any possible air.

if you have just done water pump and radiator this is the best possiblity.
you seem very knowlegeable about legends. good to have you hear.

gooday mate
peace
t
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Old 04-22-03, 12:22 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Re: HEY THERE STEVIERAY

Quote:
Originally posted by LEGEND718
WHERE CAN I GET ONE OF THOSE RADIATORS FOR THAT PRICE I THINKIN I NEED THAT!
Do a search online for "Modine Radiators" and see if there is a local distributor. You may want to check your Yellow Pages for that also. List price for a G2 Modine radiator is in the $265 neighborhood---even that's a lot better than the $375-400 that the Acura dealers want for a OEM one. I got lucky and the local distributor sold it to me for $125 and I installed it myself with the help of my trusty HELM manual. Time consuming and messy but not difficult. Just make sure that everything that comes off the old radiator (foam strips, thermosensor, ATF cooler hoses) goes back on the new one. Later---
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Old 04-22-03, 01:10 PM   #7 (permalink)
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THANKS I'M GETTING SOME WHERE

HAPPY TO BE GETTING SOME WHERE WITH THIS FORUM
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Old 04-22-03, 03:39 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Don't mess around with the radiator. If you think it's faulty. REPLACE IT ASAP. Then bleed the cooling system as was said. I got my radiator for $165, and self-install.
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Old 04-23-03, 04:45 AM   #9 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by tnelson
i had problems with this for about a month, and nobody had an answer.(this was back in the beginnings of this forum.) now we understand the problem. you could have a bad water pump, (mine was leaking and letting air into the system.) but a proper coolant bleed (esp. if its you just replaced a coolant system part) should take car of your problems. make sure you close the valve with a thick rag or something on your hand. and then rev lightly (1-2k rpm)for 2 minutes and repeat. this just makes sure to circulate any possible air.

if you have just done water pump and radiator this is the best possiblity.
you seem very knowlegeable about legends. good to have you hear.

gooday mate
peace
t
Thanks tnelson! I will take your advice as suggested. I hope my waterpump is not bad..thats a time consuming problem (but I have dealer warranty). I am glad I found this great forum..I use to visit LEGEND.ORG, but got depressed when i realised it wasnt updated any longer. This forum is much better and more user friendly!!

My final comment is that LEGENDS seem to be like women.. you need to put in high maintenance, otherwise they will bite you bad in the ass!:p

Later.
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Old 04-29-03, 09:30 PM   #10 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by stevieray
If the system was not bled at the time of your radiator repair, you have air in your cooling system. These cars are extremely sensitive to air and will do all kinds of weird things when this is the case. Go here for info on how to bleed the system and report back. You may also want to consider buying a replacement radiator such as a Modine for $125-150 and installing it yourself as its not very difficult---I did mine 2 weeks ago. Good luck---

Seems like bleeding worked! No problems for a few hundred kays now. I dont think Ive bled it completely, but boy, hasnt it made a BIG BIG difference. Temp gauge is way more steady, and I definitely think its not a BHG - top hose doesnt get hard quickly at all and pass all tests. Bit smokey at startup (I think we all have this yes?) - but I have recently changed to synthetic. I am so happy..for now!! I'll enjoy it while it lasts. I cant believe what a bit of air can do to our legends!!
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