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Second Generation Legend (1991-1995)

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Old 03-24-12, 09:05 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Car 1: 1994 Legend L Cloth Type II Auto
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I just had a JDM Type II engine with 67,000 certified miles dropped in my car for a little over $3,000.
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Old 04-01-12, 03:23 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Thanks everyone for the help and guidance. The engine will be replaced this week.

The only questions is should I replace it with the Type I or Type II. The Type II is $100 more, but I'm not sure if the install would be any additional, of if I might create more issues / complications by going with the Type II.

If the Type II is a better engine, and assuming the mileage is about the same as the Type I, I might go for the type II. Any advice?



Thanks,

Eric
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Old 04-01-12, 03:44 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I couldn't be happier right now with my decision to put a Type II power plant in my car. Well to be honest, there were no Type I engines in the Atlanta market for my mechanic to buy.

I was lucky enough to find a Type II automatic , Non TCS ECU at my local junk yard in the event I change it out. I'll go through several fuel runs to see if I want to do that.

Below is my 67,000 mile Type II JDM engine. Notice thick wiring harness on right side of engine. That is a tell tale sign this is a JDM engine and not a USDM engine pulled out of a car in the USA.



Good luck...
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Old 06-06-12, 12:56 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Hey Eric,

Did you get your motor installed yet? Just wondering because I'm about 40 minutes from you and thinking of doing the same JDM purchase since my HG just went out.
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Old 06-06-12, 06:45 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Yes, I had the motor installed. A few minor issues, but nothing major. I had a follow-up appointment at 500 miles and all looked good.

At this point, the only issue I have is a bit of a rough idle. I hope to get that addressed soon.
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Old 06-23-12, 03:54 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Chalk me up as one who went the head gasket replacement route. My job is stressful so working on cars helps me take my mind off of work and keep from getting burned out. Nothing like a Saturday in the garage to reset the stress-o-meter, even with a few skinned knuckles.

Picked up a rust free '94 Legend with 195k for $600 for my wife's niece - her first car. It was idling rough and the owner claimed it had never been overheated, but when he took it to the stealer to have the rough idle fixed, it failed a leakdown test. I put a spark plug in it and drove it another 1000 miles before the temp started creeping up and I knew what I had to do.

Followed the excellent diy here on the site and everything went great. The old head gasket was leaking as suspected at cylinder #6. Opted for a new starter and alternator since I had it all apart, and chose the fel-pro gasket set. Had the heads surfaced and pressure tested by Napa, no problems found. I had the machine shop put the valve stem seals from the kit in the heads and then I put the new O-rings in the cam towers. New radiator, heater and bypass hoses all around, new thermostat.

Got everything back together and it fired right up. Then blammo! Lifter tap, rough idle and milky oil. F---!!! Then I remembered that I elected to keep the old oil in it for the first run, and so on a hunch decided to do an oil change to get the foamy oil out. Fired it up again and no more foamy oil. Whew! Gaskets were ok! Lifter tap went away on its own after a few miles but the rough idle and the sound of a vacuum leak remained.

I checked and rechecked all of the hose connections and drove it around a while until I finally decided I'd had enough and looked it over again. Tightened down the fast idle valve which helped a little, but still had the vacuum leak and damned if I could find it. Then I looked at the fuel injector bosses and found the culprit. One of the O-rings had gotten out of place when I pulled the fuel rail up one last time before final assembly and hadn't made it back into its seat. Lifted the rail again, put the new seal back in place, and voilą! Runs like a dream again!

My point: if you do the job yourself be prepared for some surprises but if you follow the directions right and use a proper set of gaskets, tools and a torque wrench, it will go together fine. Total cost: less than $750 for all of the parts including gaskets, alternator, starter and hoses, and 2 full 12-16 hour days plus a few odd hours troubleshooting. For less than $1400 we have a car that hopefully will go another 100k. Now that's a deal!

Thanks for such a great resource!

Dave
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Old 08-13-14, 06:14 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Hey Ericxv my ride has been sitting for 2 yrs. Now I gotta get her back on the road. Just dumped some Bar's Leak Hg-1 in it just to see if she will pass smog but doubt that will fly here in Cali..Who did the work for you and where did they get the motor? Wanted to get a JDM from Attarco locally in Richmond but just found out they closed. There is another place in Emeryville called Engine World their Yelp review isn't the best. Wondering how to prove the mileage on these being such an old car? Was going to sell her as is but my type 2 only has 106,000 on the body and I won't get anything close to a Legend for $2500.
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Old 08-13-14, 06:33 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wesdog357 View Post
Hey Ericxv my ride has been sitting for 2 yrs. Now I gotta get her back on the road. Just dumped some Bar's Leak Hg-1 in it just to see if she will pass smog but doubt that will fly here in Cali..Who did the work for you and where did they get the motor? Wanted to get a JDM from Attarco locally in Richmond but just found out they closed. There is another place in Emeryville called Engine World their Yelp review isn't the best. Wondering how to prove the mileage on these being such an old car? Was going to sell her as is but my type 2 only has 106,000 on the body and I won't get anything close to a Legend for $2500.
I got my engine from Engine World in Emeryville. It's been a few years, but has worked out well. It's also passed smog, though I kept my original intake manifold.

I don't know if there is a true way to verify the mileage as the engines come from Japan. The mechanic checked it out thoroughly and tested it before installing it. The shop that did the work was in Oakland, but they're no longer in business.

I've heard there is a good shop in Berkeley that does such work, but I don't recall the name. I think I found it via Yelp.

Good luck!
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Old 08-23-14, 08:16 AM   #24 (permalink)
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I guess I'll go with this place since it's the only local supplier that has any at this time.
What was the issue you had?
Oh and how are your smog #'s?

I'm still searching for a shop to do the install that I can trust.
Hoping to get this done by the end of the month.
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Old 09-24-20, 09:00 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geotrash View Post
Chalk me up as one who went the head gasket replacement route. My job is stressful so working on cars helps me take my mind off of work and keep from getting burned out. Nothing like a Saturday in the garage to reset the stress-o-meter, even with a few skinned knuckles.

Picked up a rust free '94 Legend with 195k for $600 for my wife's niece - her first car. It was idling rough and the owner claimed it had never been overheated, but when he took it to the stealer to have the rough idle fixed, it failed a leakdown test. I put a spark plug in it and drove it another 1000 miles before the temp started creeping up and I knew what I had to do.

Followed the excellent diy here on the site and everything went great. The old head gasket was leaking as suspected at cylinder #6. Opted for a new starter and alternator since I had it all apart, and chose the fel-pro gasket set. Had the heads surfaced and pressure tested by Napa, no problems found. I had the machine shop put the valve stem seals from the kit in the heads and then I put the new O-rings in the cam towers. New radiator, heater and bypass hoses all around, new thermostat.

Got everything back together and it fired right up. Then blammo! Lifter tap, rough idle and milky oil. F---!!! Then I remembered that I elected to keep the old oil in it for the first run, and so on a hunch decided to do an oil change to get the foamy oil out. Fired it up again and no more foamy oil. Whew! Gaskets were ok! Lifter tap went away on its own after a few miles but the rough idle and the sound of a vacuum leak remained.

I checked and rechecked all of the hose connections and drove it around a while until I finally decided I'd had enough and looked it over again. Tightened down the fast idle valve which helped a little, but still had the vacuum leak and damned if I could find it. Then I looked at the fuel injector bosses and found the culprit. One of the O-rings had gotten out of place when I pulled the fuel rail up one last time before final assembly and hadn't made it back into its seat. Lifted the rail again, put the new seal back in place, and voilą! Runs like a dream again!

My point: if you do the job yourself be prepared for some surprises but if you follow the directions right and use a proper set of gaskets, tools and a torque wrench, it will go together fine. Total cost: less than $750 for all of the parts including gaskets, alternator, starter and hoses, and 2 full 12-16 hour days plus a few odd hours troubleshooting. For less than $1400 we have a car that hopefully will go another 100k. Now that's a deal!

Thanks for such a great resource!

Dave
GEOTRASH......its years later but im at the point of also facing the head gasket job....my 91 legend has 260k...and considering doing myself....car has been a blessing to me...only paid 400 for it, and have had it 5 yrs now...and head gaskets are just now going out....tuff cars they made back then....do you still have yours and is still running??
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Old 09-24-20, 09:33 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4HondaOwner View Post
I just had a JDM Type II engine with 67,000 certified miles dropped in my car for a little over $3,000.
Hello fellow acura owner.....do you know of any local areas here in atlanta for used type one engines...i looked up enginesus but i plan on keeping my old engine. enginesus does an exchange as you buy.......its time to do my head gaskets....so im thinking do heads..gaskets....or havent decided on pull whole engine....this is just my get around to work vehicle manly and has served is purpose well.
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