Once engine was removed from the car, we remove transmission. We started removing parts from the Legend engine that we would need for the 3.5. Legend wiring harness, power steering pump, differential, alternator, starter & all brackets. We then took off the Y pipes
Next we stripped the 3.5 motor to the block. Remove the engine wire harness cover. Disconnect the engine sub harness connectors. Remove the 3.5 coil packs, fuel injectors, crank/cyl sensor, temperature gauge send & TA sensor connector. Remove the air inlet pipe & the vacuum pipes and hoses. ***First we removed the knock sensors (be very careful here...they break easily and if not done correctly, they will crumble and you will be adding knock sensors to your parts list*** Remove the 3.5 wiring harness & 3.5 fule injectors which you will not need. Remove the 3.5 intake manifold as well and the water passage pipe that runs underneath the intake manifold. ***Note have a bucket and collect all bolts that you take off the 3.5.
Remove the timing belt upper left/right cover
On the 3.5 set the timing belt drive pulley so that the No. 1 piston is at top dead center (TDC). Align the TDC mark on the timing belt drive pulley with the pointer on the oil pump. Set the camshaft pulleys so that the No. 1 piston is at TDC. Align the TDC marks on the camshaft pulleys to the pointers on the back covers. Remove the crankshaft pulley & remove the timing belt cover. ***NOTE: DO NOT spin the balance shaft once it is in time because if it spins, it will be out of balance***
Got crank pulleys to line up before loosening the timing belt adjusting bolt 180 degrees to release the belt tension
Next we attached the 3.5 engine to engine stand
Removed the valve covers
Remove the 3 screws on each cam pulley to remove
Remove the timing belt cover plates (left/right). Remove the crank/cyl sensor from the left cylinder head
The crank/cam position sensor behind the driver side cam gear has a plug that does not match the Legend wiring harness plug so we swapped the type 1 crank/cyl plug in(91-92 only). 93-95 has the correct connector on the plug so this step isn't necessary!
Remove the rocker arms and shafts. Unscrew the cam holder bolts, two turns at a time in a criss-cross pattern, to prevent damaging the valves or rocker arm assembly. When removing the rocker arm assembly, do not remove the cam holder bolts. The bolts will keep the cam holders, the springs and the rocker arms on the shaft.
Remove the rocker arms compressed and be sure to not let them rotate. Once removed the cams are easy to remove
If you are going to head gaskets and valve seals, Homeboyx has a great write up
Used engine assembly lube on the cam lobes and rocker arms to reduce friction. Replaced seals on top of the rocker arms
Set the type 2 cams along with new camshaft seal(make sure the open side is facing in) & new rear seals(rubber cap) as well
Set the rocker assembly in place loosely and install the bolts. Make sure the rocker arms are properly positioned on the valve stems. Re-install the timing belt cover plates and crank pulley (left/right). Tighten each bolt two at a time in sequence below to ensure rockers do not bind on valves.
Torque 12 bolts to 16 lbs, Torque 10 bolts to 9 lbs
Next we replaced the timing belt and water pump.
I know some say the water pump only needs to be inspected but since the motor was tore down, for peace of mind we went ahead and replaced it. I'll be honest I have no idea how people do this in the car. It took us awhile to get it lined up perfectly on an engine stand.
Make sure all of your timing marks line up. Install the timing belt in the sequence shown. 1. Timing belt drive pulley (crankshaft) 2. Adjusting pulley 3. Left camshaft pulley 4. Water pump pulley 5. Right camshaft pulley. **NOTE: For easier installation, turn the right camshaft pulley clockwise about a half tooth from the TDC position. Make sure the timing belt drive pulley and camshaft pulleys are at TDC***
Replaced the front crank seal (91212-PY3-003). Use a screw driver to pry it out and then you a pipe of same size to install.
Replaced the water passage from the 3.5 with the legend water passage pipe(connecting pipe). This must be done to use a type 2 intake manifold because it has an outlet, which leads to the fast idle valve. We used the 3.5 thermostat case assembly.
3.5 water passage pipe
Type 2 water passage pipe with outlet for fast idle valve
Swapped the coolant outlet(rear water outlet) from the Legend to the 3.5 engine. We used RTV blue or you can use Hondabond (its up to you)!
Changed out the valve cover gaskets and replaced spark plugs with NGK Legend spark plugs(***NOTE DO NOT use 3.5 plugs, use Legend plugs). Used liquid gasket on the curved portion of the valve cover gaskets
Added Legend coil packs & pcv valve
Use the Legend passenger side valve cover, which has the oil temperature sensor on the back. This is much easier than tapping the RL valve cover in my opinion
Next we blocked off the pair pipe
Reinstalled the timing belt cover
Added the Legend differential to the 3.5 engine. The bolts for the differential are to long for the 3.5 so we added two washers, which make the bolt able to be tighten up. The differential coolant hoses on the 3.5 are capped off because they are not cooled like the design of the Legend.
Take the coolant lines off the Legend differential & use those two washers.
Added the crankshaft, legend power steering pump, legend compressor, Legend starter, legend alternator back to engine (we had these tested while off the car to make sure they were still good)
Next we replaced the thermostat. The 3.5 thermostat supposedly runs 10 degrees cooler than the legend. Removed the thermostat cover and old thermostat.
Installed the new thermostat and the 3.5 thermostat cover
Replaced the rear main seal (91214-PNA-014)
We weren't sure if the automatic transmission drive plates were the same(They are the same) so we took the automatic transmission drive plate off the legend and put it onto the 3.5
Next attached the legend transmission to the 3.5. All bolts will line up except one
Attached the automatic transmission drive covers
Back plate on the intake manifold chamber was very dirty, cleaned and replaced old gaskets with new gaskets
Reassembled the type 2 intake manifold with all new gaskets
Added gasket and bypass body valve
Added throttle body base
Added air boost valve and EACV
Added air suction valve & coolant bleeder screw. The two coolant sensors on the water passage were exchanged for the type 2 ones since I am using the type 2 intake manifold.
Installed new gaskets and then manifold.
Installed egr pipe & egr valve and new gaskets from 3.5 since the once from legend was clogged.
***highly suggest you replace the two hoses on the fast idle valve or you will kick yourself if you have to do them when the engine is in the car***
19522-PY3-000 HOSE A, 19523-PY3-000 HOSE B,
Use the legend fuel injectors instead of the 3.5
Depending on the condition of the rubber gaskets, they need to be replaced on the top of the fuel injectors. We used the ones from the 3.5 since they were still in good shape
Attached the fuel injectors, type 2 fuel rails and type 2 fuel pressure regulator
Added the Legend's air inlet pipe
Added vacuum pipes & Legend wiring harness to the engine.
Installed the Legend starter
Next we had to extend the oil pressure sender plug with butt connectors, extra wire and a zip tie
Installed the drive belts (ac, alternator, ps)
Added the power cables to starter and back of alternator
Took out old exhaust ring gasket and installed the next metal gasket rings & then attached Y pipe back to 3.5 engine. Now engine was ready to be put back into the car
Replaced hoses on the firewall. These pipes to heater core are very easy to bend (as we did), be careful not to do what we die. We ended up straightening them out as much as possible and putting back on the factory clamps along with some screw down clamps as well to make sure there were no leaks
4 79721-SP0-A00 HOSE A, WATER INLET 1
5 79722-SP0-A00 HOSE B, WATER INLET 1
6 79725-SP0-A00 HOSE, WATER OUTLET 1