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Old 07-07-10, 10:43 PM   #1 (permalink)
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DIY: My 3.5 Hybrid Type 2 AT swap!

This took a lot of time and research for me as I have worked on cars before but never swapped an engine before. I have a 92 Acura Legend Coupe and I am doing a 3.5 AT hybrid swap with type 2 cams, type 2 fuel rails & fuel pressure regulator & type 2 intake manifold. Some great "must read" threads before I got started were:

https://www.acura-legend.com/vbulleti...rmation-92577/
https://www.acura-legend.com/vbulleti...-no-56k-98765/

General information for the swap is on the forums, but the problem I ran into was that all the information is not all in one place! I will go thru my 3.5 hybrid swap me & jonslengend did step by step with plenty of pictures. For guys who have done swaps before it will seem very oversimplified and a lot steps are just a given but for others like me who have never done an engine swap before, I think the pictures will help out tremendously and let you know what you are getting yourself into. Some of things we did on the swap aren't necessary for the swap to be done, but while you have the motor out of the car and apart, it is so much easier to go ahead and take care of preventive maintenance. Since we didn't have access to a lift, as most people don't, we pulled the engine from the top. Well enough talking, lets get started.

Parts needed:

3.5 RL engine 96-04
Modified passenger side bracket (see pics below)
Engine hoist (cherry picker) - Craigslist
Load leveler _ Harbor Freight
Engine stand - Craigslist
Type 2 intake manifold
Type 2 fuel rails & type 2-fuel pressure regulator
Type 2 throttle body (I used tcs but not necessary)
New drive belts (ac, ps, alternator). Order these for Legend and not the RL 3.5. You can use OEM or I used Gates
Koyo Radiator $103.00

For anyone wanting Koyo radiator contact Corey at Elite Auto AC 321-720-7756 or [email protected] He is a great guy to deal with. I purchased a Koyo radiator for my sedan and this one as well and each was $103 total shipped to my door.

3.5 Timing Belt & Water Pump (OEM or Gates Timing Belt Component Kit which I ordered from Rock Auto Part #TCKWP279 includes 2 Belts, 2 Tensioners & 1 Water Pump) (Rock Auto)
Legend Drive Belts (OEM or Gates - Rock Auto)

Honda Dealer (prices are cheaper than Acura Dealer)

3.5 thermostat
Type 2 Coolant
Transmission fluid
Brake fluid
Power steering fluid
Oil & oil filter (RL oil filter, Legend oil filter wont fit)
pcv valve
Legend fuel filter
Differential Gear Oil
Since everything was apart I decided to replace axles as well. We used Cardones Select Axles (Rock Auto) or you can go with Raxles



Ordered OEM hoses from Acura of Augusta contact Ryan 1-800-736-6818. Tell them you are from the forums so you can receive your discount



009 19501-PY3-000 HOSE, WATER (UPPER) 1
010 19502-PY3-010 HOSE, WATER (LOWER) 1
002 19103-PY3-000 HOSE, RESERVE TANK 1
003 19104-PY3-000 TUBE, RESERVE TANK 1

These additional hoses can be changed out but after talking with Acura of Augusta, they stated that these normally don’t go bad and didn't have to be changed out

014 25213-PY3-901 HOSE (185MM) (ATF) (BS) 1
015 25214-PY3-901 HOSE (405MM) 1
016 25215-PY3-902 HOSE (600MM) (ATF) 1
017 25216-PY3-901 HOSE (435MM) 1



7 41127-PY4-G01 HOSE A, WATER 1
8 41128-PY4-000 HOSE B, WATER 1



4 79721-SP0-A00 HOSE A, WATER INLET 1
5 79722-SP0-A00 HOSE B, WATER INLET 1
6 79725-SP0-A00 HOSE, WATER OUTLET 1
9 80335-SP0-A01 HOSE, DRAIN 1



2 19522-PY3-000 HOSE A, WATER 1
3 19523-PY3-000 HOSE B, WATER 1
4 19524-PY3-000 HOSE C, WATER 1
5 19525-PY3-000 HOSE D, WATER 1



91214-PNA-014 Rear main seal
91212-PY3-003 Front main seal


Ordered gasket set next and which one you go with will depend on your preference and what type of swap you are doing. If you are doing head gaskets (which I did not because my engine only had 29K) then I would go OEM or use the FEL-PRO gasket kit. 3.2 kit part #HS9031PT & 3.5 part #HS9031PT1 which is a lot cheaper from Rock Auto (pics from alittlethin).




If you are not doing head gaskets (did I mention DO NOT use the eristic head gaskets) then you can use the E-bay Eristic Legend gasket kit.


Misc Parts

Socket Set & Various wrenches
Torque Wrench
PB Blast
Silicon Gasket Maker
Engine Assembly Lube
RTV Silicon Blue
Butt Connectors
Twist ties
Impact wrench or access to a few breaker bars. (Only power tool we used)
Oil absorbent
Zip lock bags and a sharpie (if you don’t mark and keep up with all your bolts you will be sorry)
Hydraulic Jack
Jack stands
Crimpers

Your passenger side bracket will need to be modified in order to mount the 3.5 in the legend. 91-92 & 93-95 legends have different brackets. All the RL brackets are the same
91-92 bracket

modified 91-92 bracket installed

93-95 bracket & RL bracket (pic from ffdrifter)

Modified 93-95 bracket installed


I highly suggest ordering these before you start your swap or this will set you back time wise!
Chipped ECU
Modified bracket
Transmission mount (or polyfill to poly your mount)
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https://www.acura-legend.com/vbulleti...-coupe-124913/

DIY: My 3.5 Hybrid Swap
https://www.acura-legend.com/vbulleti...42#post1527542

Last edited by XclusiveAutosports; 07-08-10 at 09:08 AM.
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Old 07-07-10, 10:44 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Remove 3.2 engine from car

Remove the hood, bumper & headlights from car



Drain all fluids: oil, transmission, differential & coolant. Disconnect positive/negative terminals and remove battery.



Remove battery tray



Remove splash shield




Remove strut tower bar





Disconnect engine electrical connectors



Remove throttle cover and throttle cable locknut, then cable end from throttle bracket and accelerator linkage. Remove cruise control cable



Remove air cleaner and air duct



Remove igniter (ICM) connector, harness bracket and engine ground cable.
optional(we didn't remove this)


Disconnect emission control unit electrical connectors, then remove control unit. Do not disconnect vacuum hoses. Disconnect four engine wire harness connectors and clamps. Cover fuel filter with suitable shop rag, then slowly loosen fuel filter service bolt about one turn to relieve fuel pressure, Fig. 8. CAUTION: Do not smoke while working on the fuel system. Keep open flame away from work area. Drain fuel only into an approved container. Before disconnecting any fuel line, the fuel pressure should be relieved as described above. Place a shop towel over the fuel filter to prevent pressurized fuel from spraying over the engine.
Remove fuel feed hose. Remove pressure control valve fuel return hose. Disconnect brake booster vacuum hose. Remove the evaporative emission (EVAP) purge control hose and EVAP vacuum hose from the install pipes Disconnect transaxle harness, located at LH rear of engine compartment, electrical connector, then remove harness bracket





Disconnect radiator hoses, ATF cooler lines, thermo sensor electrical connector and cooling fan electrical connector. Remove radiator assembly




Remove vacuum pipe, emission device solenoid valve and air tank. I would suggest taking pics here so you will know where they go upon installing the engine. We took pics plus had 2 legends on site while swapping the engine to check the correct location of each wire




Remove power steering belt and pump, then position aside. Disconnect power steering hoses and have a bucket to catch fluid.



Remove front wheels, then damper forks. ***Power tools really help here***




Using ball joint tool, disconnect upper ball joints. Disconnect driveshaft & remove. CAUTION: **Do not pull on the driveshaft, as the CV joint may come apart. Use care when prying out the assembly and pull it straight to avoid damaging the differential oil seal or intermediate shaft dust seal





Remove vehicle speed sensor/power steering speed sensor. Disconnect hoses.



Remove exhaust pipe and joint pipe assembly




On models equipped with A/C, remove A/C compressor and belt, If you just got AC charged, drop the ac compressor & take bolts and suspend with wire or you can simply disconnect the lines. ***NOTE the freon system is under pressure***



Disconnect shift rod and shift lever torque rod. On models equipped with automatic transaxle, disconnect shift control cable.

hard to get good pics here



Remove engine mid mount attaching nuts and bolts.



Remove front motor mounts & remove rear transmission




Install suitable engine lifting equipment.



Ensure engine is free of hoses and electrical connectors. Remove engine assembly. Remove the damper and center bracket. Check that the engine/transmission is completely free of vacuum hoses, fuel and engine coolant hoses, and electrical wiring. Slowly raise the engine approximately 150 mm (6 in) . Check once again that all hoses and wires have been disconnected from the engine/transmission assembly. CAUTION: Take care not to bend the suction pipe.
Raise the engine/transmission assembly all the way and remove it from the car.


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https://www.acura-legend.com/vbulleti...-coupe-124913/

DIY: My 3.5 Hybrid Swap
https://www.acura-legend.com/vbulleti...42#post1527542
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Old 07-07-10, 10:46 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Moving parts over from 3.2 to 3.5

Once engine was removed from the car, we remove transmission. We started removing parts from the Legend engine that we would need for the 3.5. Legend wiring harness, power steering pump, differential, alternator, starter & all brackets. We then took off the Y pipes






Next we stripped the 3.5 motor to the block. Remove the engine wire harness cover. Disconnect the engine sub harness connectors. Remove the 3.5 coil packs, fuel injectors, crank/cyl sensor, temperature gauge send & TA sensor connector. Remove the air inlet pipe & the vacuum pipes and hoses. ***First we removed the knock sensors (be very careful here...they break easily and if not done correctly, they will crumble and you will be adding knock sensors to your parts list*** Remove the 3.5 wiring harness & 3.5 fule injectors which you will not need. Remove the 3.5 intake manifold as well and the water passage pipe that runs underneath the intake manifold. ***Note have a bucket and collect all bolts that you take off the 3.5.





Remove the timing belt upper left/right cover




On the 3.5 set the timing belt drive pulley so that the No. 1 piston is at top dead center (TDC). Align the TDC mark on the timing belt drive pulley with the pointer on the oil pump. Set the camshaft pulleys so that the No. 1 piston is at TDC. Align the TDC marks on the camshaft pulleys to the pointers on the back covers. Remove the crankshaft pulley & remove the timing belt cover. ***NOTE: DO NOT spin the balance shaft once it is in time because if it spins, it will be out of balance***



Got crank pulleys to line up before loosening the timing belt adjusting bolt 180 degrees to release the belt tension





Next we attached the 3.5 engine to engine stand



Removed the valve covers




Remove the 3 screws on each cam pulley to remove




Remove the timing belt cover plates (left/right). Remove the crank/cyl sensor from the left cylinder head




The crank/cam position sensor behind the driver side cam gear has a plug that does not match the Legend wiring harness plug so we swapped the type 1 crank/cyl plug in(91-92 only). 93-95 has the correct connector on the plug so this step isn't necessary!






Remove the rocker arms and shafts. Unscrew the cam holder bolts, two turns at a time in a criss-cross pattern, to prevent damaging the valves or rocker arm assembly. When removing the rocker arm assembly, do not remove the cam holder bolts. The bolts will keep the cam holders, the springs and the rocker arms on the shaft.






Remove the rocker arms compressed and be sure to not let them rotate. Once removed the cams are easy to remove







If you are going to head gaskets and valve seals, Homeboyx has a great write up

http://forums.acuralegend.org/valve-...nt-t12815.html

Used engine assembly lube on the cam lobes and rocker arms to reduce friction. Replaced seals on top of the rocker arms




Set the type 2 cams along with new camshaft seal(make sure the open side is facing in) & new rear seals(rubber cap) as well




Set the rocker assembly in place loosely and install the bolts. Make sure the rocker arms are properly positioned on the valve stems. Re-install the timing belt cover plates and crank pulley (left/right). Tighten each bolt two at a time in sequence below to ensure rockers do not bind on valves.
Torque 12 bolts to 16 lbs, Torque 10 bolts to 9 lbs







Next we replaced the timing belt and water pump.



I know some say the water pump only needs to be inspected but since the motor was tore down, for peace of mind we went ahead and replaced it. I'll be honest I have no idea how people do this in the car. It took us awhile to get it lined up perfectly on an engine stand.






Make sure all of your timing marks line up. Install the timing belt in the sequence shown. 1. Timing belt drive pulley (crankshaft) 2. Adjusting pulley 3. Left camshaft pulley 4. Water pump pulley 5. Right camshaft pulley. **NOTE: For easier installation, turn the right camshaft pulley clockwise about a half tooth from the TDC position. Make sure the timing belt drive pulley and camshaft pulleys are at TDC***








Replaced the front crank seal (91212-PY3-003). Use a screw driver to pry it out and then you a pipe of same size to install.





Replaced the water passage from the 3.5 with the legend water passage pipe(connecting pipe). This must be done to use a type 2 intake manifold because it has an outlet, which leads to the fast idle valve. We used the 3.5 thermostat case assembly.
3.5 water passage pipe



Type 2 water passage pipe with outlet for fast idle valve




Swapped the coolant outlet(rear water outlet) from the Legend to the 3.5 engine. We used RTV blue or you can use Hondabond (its up to you)!





Changed out the valve cover gaskets and replaced spark plugs with NGK Legend spark plugs(***NOTE DO NOT use 3.5 plugs, use Legend plugs). Used liquid gasket on the curved portion of the valve cover gaskets




Added Legend coil packs & pcv valve



Use the Legend passenger side valve cover, which has the oil temperature sensor on the back. This is much easier than tapping the RL valve cover in my opinion



Next we blocked off the pair pipe








Reinstalled the timing belt cover



Added the Legend differential to the 3.5 engine. The bolts for the differential are to long for the 3.5 so we added two washers, which make the bolt able to be tighten up. The differential coolant hoses on the 3.5 are capped off because they are not cooled like the design of the Legend.






Take the coolant lines off the Legend differential & use those two washers.






Added the crankshaft, legend power steering pump, legend compressor, Legend starter, legend alternator back to engine (we had these tested while off the car to make sure they were still good)






Next we replaced the thermostat. The 3.5 thermostat supposedly runs 10 degrees cooler than the legend. Removed the thermostat cover and old thermostat.



Installed the new thermostat and the 3.5 thermostat cover




Replaced the rear main seal (91214-PNA-014)





We weren't sure if the automatic transmission drive plates were the same(They are the same) so we took the automatic transmission drive plate off the legend and put it onto the 3.5



Next attached the legend transmission to the 3.5. All bolts will line up except one




Attached the automatic transmission drive covers





Back plate on the intake manifold chamber was very dirty, cleaned and replaced old gaskets with new gaskets




Reassembled the type 2 intake manifold with all new gaskets




Added gasket and bypass body valve





Added throttle body base



Added air boost valve and EACV



Added air suction valve & coolant bleeder screw. The two coolant sensors on the water passage were exchanged for the type 2 ones since I am using the type 2 intake manifold.




Installed new gaskets and then manifold.




Installed egr pipe & egr valve and new gaskets from 3.5 since the once from legend was clogged.




***highly suggest you replace the two hoses on the fast idle valve or you will kick yourself if you have to do them when the engine is in the car***
19522-PY3-000 HOSE A, 19523-PY3-000 HOSE B,



Use the legend fuel injectors instead of the 3.5



Depending on the condition of the rubber gaskets, they need to be replaced on the top of the fuel injectors. We used the ones from the 3.5 since they were still in good shape






Attached the fuel injectors, type 2 fuel rails and type 2 fuel pressure regulator





Added the Legend's air inlet pipe



Added vacuum pipes & Legend wiring harness to the engine.





Installed the Legend starter



Next we had to extend the oil pressure sender plug with butt connectors, extra wire and a zip tie







Installed the drive belts (ac, alternator, ps)



Added the power cables to starter and back of alternator




Took out old exhaust ring gasket and installed the next metal gasket rings & then attached Y pipe back to 3.5 engine. Now engine was ready to be put back into the car





Replaced hoses on the firewall. These pipes to heater core are very easy to bend (as we did), be careful not to do what we die. We ended up straightening them out as much as possible and putting back on the factory clamps along with some screw down clamps as well to make sure there were no leaks

4 79721-SP0-A00 HOSE A, WATER INLET 1
5 79722-SP0-A00 HOSE B, WATER INLET 1
6 79725-SP0-A00 HOSE, WATER OUTLET 1



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DIY: My 3.5 Hybrid Swap
https://www.acura-legend.com/vbulleti...42#post1527542
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Old 07-07-10, 10:50 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Installing Your New 3.5 Engine






Engine is ready to install back into car. Make sure all the motor mounts to line up. Notice the modded 3.5/3.2 passenger side mount



We started by connecting everything underneath the car first: mid mounts, tranny mount, cooler lines, transmission linkage, catalytic converter, etc










Then we installed the new axles







Hooked up hoses on back of engine after replacing with new hoses. There is no pair system on the 3.5. Although I did not remove the solenoid, the line needs to be capped off.



Donít forget this ground wire along with the others



Connected ps pump



Connected the vss




We used the Type 2 throttle body to make things easier because the TPS sensors point up...

versus on the type 1 it points dow(pic Reboticon)



Put the radiator back in & replaced these hoses. Hooked up vaccuum lines, throttle & cruise control cables.

009 19501-PY3-000 HOSE, WATER (UPPER) 1
010 19502-PY3-010 HOSE, WATER (LOWER) 1
002 19103-PY3-000 HOSE, RESERVE TANK 1
003 19104-PY3-000 TUBE, RESERVE TANK 1







Hooked up air box



Reconnected the AC lines and connected positive & negative wires to fuse box



Swapped out ECU





Connected wiring harnesses, all hoses & fuel filter





Fill up all fluids, make sure all connections are done and you should be ready for start up




Started up on the 1st try :excited: but was running kinda rough :angryfire:




After a few adjustment engine was running very smooth


Xclusive's 3.5 Type 2 Hybrid swap is a success!


Congradulate yourself, You are now the proud owner of 3.5 Swap!

DIY done by Xclusive & Jonslegend
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DIY: My 3.5 Hybrid Swap
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Old 07-07-10, 11:02 PM   #5 (permalink)
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great build man, congrats!!
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Old 07-08-10, 12:25 PM   #6 (permalink)
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So far this is the most complete 3.5 swop diy I've seen yet.
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Originally Posted by Blackend
Good to meet you too Willie. I tell ya, when we were walking the Auto-X course and you guys started pulling in, I had no idea who it was until I saw the green machine and we're all like "ooohhhh, that's Willie and the Acuraholicks!"

Glad you guys made it out, and nice meeting all of you.
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Old 09-16-10, 12:50 AM   #7 (permalink)
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wow, epic swap, congrats on awesomeness!
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Old 05-24-11, 10:18 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Wow, fantastic write-up! This is really awesome. I did a Type I to Type II conversion about 8 years ago and your pictures bring back some good memories. Really makes me miss my Legend...
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Old 06-29-11, 08:16 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Wicked! Most fricking awesome! Phenomenal!
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Old 06-29-11, 08:52 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Hello all this is my first post here ever!! Ive been here almost Every Day tho since my mech did an Unrequested Type II swap (arrghh) I swapped ecu, fpr is next if mech used my orig...
But I digress...
From the Search function I learned about the 3.5 swap...many using Type II CAMS
My QUESTION...if ur using LegendTypeII Cams, what makes it a 3.5L...if bore is the same as 3.2L (3.54x3.31 Legend vs 3.54x3.58 RL Bore x Stroke) it would SEEM? that the RL3.5 motor is just a Legend3.2 motor with a Stroker Cam increasing displacement(Stroke) while lowering revs
And IF SO...could I gain Displacement from my Type II by changing Cams instead of a full 3.5RL engine swap
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Old 06-29-11, 09:06 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanLegend313 View Post
Hello all this is my first post here ever!! Ive been here almost Every Day tho since my mech did an Unrequested Type II swap (arrghh) I swapped ecu, fpr is next if mech used my orig...
But I digress...
From the Search function I learned about the 3.5 swap...many using Type II CAMS
My QUESTION...if ur using LegendTypeII Cams, what makes it a 3.5L...if bore is the same as 3.2L (3.54x3.31 Legend vs 3.54x3.58 RL Bore x Stroke) it would SEEM? that the RL3.5 motor is just a Legend3.2 motor with a Stroker Cam increasing displacement(Stroke) while lowering revs
And IF SO...could I gain Displacement from my Type II by changing Cams instead of a full 3.5RL engine swap
The motor is a 3.5 from a RL but it has the the type 2 cams and the type 2 intake. It depends on what your going for if you want more power go for the 3.5 hybrid build.
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Originally Posted by Blackend
Good to meet you too Willie. I tell ya, when we were walking the Auto-X course and you guys started pulling in, I had no idea who it was until I saw the green machine and we're all like "ooohhhh, that's Willie and the Acuraholicks!"

Glad you guys made it out, and nice meeting all of you.
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Old 06-29-11, 09:33 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by L3GDKANG/JDMKANG View Post
The motor is a 3.5 from a RL but it has the the type 2 cams and the type 2 intake. It depends on what your going for if you want more power go for the 3.5 hybrid build.
Im really not a motor expert, but i thought an engines Stroke was determined by the Cam, and that by using Type II cams in the RL engine, arent we turning it back into a 3.2?? Im just guessing tho. But the Bore is the same of the two motors, Legend v. RL, only the stroke is different, 3.31 v. 3.58...
And IF the Cam determines the Stroke, and you swap cams from a 3.2 to the RL Motor...

Im prob wrong but just want someone to explain HOW??
Thx in advance.
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Old 06-29-11, 09:44 PM   #13 (permalink)
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No what make the displacement is bore of the of the piston hole and the stroke of the crank not cams.
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Originally Posted by Blackend
Good to meet you too Willie. I tell ya, when we were walking the Auto-X course and you guys started pulling in, I had no idea who it was until I saw the green machine and we're all like "ooohhhh, that's Willie and the Acuraholicks!"

Glad you guys made it out, and nice meeting all of you.
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Old 06-29-11, 10:41 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Car 1: '94 Legend L Sedan Black on Black (NH503P-TypeA)
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Originally Posted by L3GDKANG/JDMKANG View Post
No what make the displacement is bore of the of the piston hole and the stroke of the crank not cams.
INDEED!!! Lol thats why i said thx in advance!! I just searched "Stroker Kit" at Wikipedia!! I guess i jumped to conclusions after researching the ratings of the 3.5L from the '96 RL
[email protected], 224lb/[email protected], thought switching Cams could give me the same results from a Type II, trade some hp for torque... oops! But im gettin used to my Type II now anyway, and my revs dont fall much below ~4400rpm at WOT with Type 1 auto...
PLUS the motors IN already so im kinda stuck with it LOL...but its low mileage (62,000mi)...makin lemonade outta lemons :-)
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Old 06-29-11, 10:46 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Join Date: Apr 2006
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Car 1: 91 Alpha/Alpha Touring KA7
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Not bad but the type 2 trans has lower gears.
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Originally Posted by Blackend
Good to meet you too Willie. I tell ya, when we were walking the Auto-X course and you guys started pulling in, I had no idea who it was until I saw the green machine and we're all like "ooohhhh, that's Willie and the Acuraholicks!"

Glad you guys made it out, and nice meeting all of you.
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