DIY:Repotting Crank/Cam Angle Sensor - The Acura Legend & Acura RL Forum
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Second Generation Legend (1991-1995)

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Old 02-05-05, 07:36 PM   #1 (permalink)
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DIY:Repotting Crank/Cam Angle Sensor

We all know that over time the potting material used in sealing the crank/cam angle sensor will eventually leak out as a black tar. Well, when I took mine out, more than half of the potting material had already leaked out. I found a new way of permanently repotting it.

Material: Fast curing epoxy putty. I got a tube called Magnum Steel from the Lowes home improvement store. The label states that after thoroughly mixing, the putty will harden in 15 minutes and fully cure in 1 hour.

1) Remove the crank/cam angle sensor. Do this when you are replacing your timing belt and waterpump. It's probably not worth the effort just to get to this one part. Here's what it looks like (sorry for the fuzzy pic.)


2) Clean up all the melted potting material off the sensor.

3) Mix some epoxy putty and start filling the void left behind by the melted potting material.

4) After the expoxy has hardened (approx. 15 min.), sand down all the high spots on the expoxy. I just rubbed the whole sensor assembly, with the epoxy side facing down, on the concrete floor of my garage. Here' what it looks like.


5) Clean it up. Wipe it down. Reinstall.

Last edited by Legend93; 02-06-05 at 05:49 PM.
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Old 02-06-05, 06:10 AM   #2 (permalink)
 
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Nice.... --=Keith
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Old 02-06-05, 03:05 PM   #3 (permalink)
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i was goind to remove the sensor long time ago but i was unable to remove bolts holding the cams how did you remove yours, and how did you stop it from turning ?
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Old 02-06-05, 05:48 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJPolak
i was goind to remove the sensor long time ago but i was unable to remove bolts holding the cams how did you remove yours, and how did you stop it from turning ?
I've gotten an electric impact wrench. It makes the work a lot easier. Another method would be to use a vice grip to hold cam from spinning then use a proper size socket and a breaker bar (or a rachet with a really long handle) to get the bolts loose.
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Old 02-06-05, 10:42 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Having had the same problem " goop running down the front of the engine" caused by the same sensor I wondered why this device is filled with that soft goo. I replaced the one on my car with a new one which is made in the exact same way, with the dark soft goo. I bought from NAPA and it came from a US manufactor. There must be a reason for this, although I didn't investigate why.

I thought about filling the voided areas with the same type of filler materiel as the original poster, Legend 93, but didn't because of the chance that the function of the crank sensor might be impaired. Surely the manufactors are aware of this problem of the dripping/running goo...


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Old 02-07-05, 07:27 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Why shouldn't I just leave mine depleated of goo?
Will I face any long-term ramifications?

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Old 02-07-05, 09:33 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Why shouldn't I just leave mine depleated of goo?
Will I face any long-term ramifications?

k.h.
Since all of us encounter this situation, usually when doing the TB, I would say that the crank angle sensor works fine without the goo. I changed mine for the hell of it, and I know damn well that the problem will repeat itself.

I do plan to inquire about this from the sensor manufactor but haven't yet. As I stated prior, the sensor removed OEM, and the sensor replaced, is identical to the NAPA one, even down to the metal casting marks.

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Old 02-07-05, 10:46 AM   #8 (permalink)
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The whole sensor assembly consists of 4 sensors (magnetic sensors..., I believe.). The sensors are daisy-chained by wires. The potting "goo" is used to seal the sensors from environmental damage (such as oil, dust, ...etc.) and vibration. If enough of it leak out, the wires will have room to vibrate, over time will fail at the solder joint. At least that's my theory. However, my car has 194K miles on it when I decided to repot the sensor. At this point, about 65% of the "goo" has melted and leaked out. At this rate it may last another 150K miles before failure. Each person will have to decide how to handle this. For me, it was very simple. I had everything apart already while replacing the timing belt. I didn't want the "goo" coating my engine. And most of all it was simple to do.
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