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Second Generation Legend (1991-1995)

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Old 02-06-05, 02:51 PM   #1 (permalink)
 
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when my car is in park it sounds like someone is constantly pushing the accelerator. It just constantly revs. When i put the car in drive it goes away eventually. Any ideas on what this is? Oh my car has 168k miles on it 91 legend 4dr sedan
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Old 02-07-05, 01:54 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whobutdee
when my car is in park it sounds like someone is constantly pushing the accelerator. It just constantly revs. When i put the car in drive it goes away eventually. Any ideas on what this is? Oh my car has 168k miles on it 91 legend 4dr sedan
Just split your thread so it would get seen by more people
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Old 02-08-05, 12:03 AM   #3 (permalink)
 
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I have the same problem. It goes up and down, up and down....It happens once the car is warmed up. I have a weapon R air intake and the guy at my shop said that it's the ECU buggin out because of the air intake. Is this right??
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Old 02-08-05, 12:09 AM   #4 (permalink)
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search is your friend air in cooling system
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Old 02-08-05, 10:48 PM   #5 (permalink)
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you've got air in your cooling system get those air bubbles out it could mean you have a leak in your radiator or maybe air caught in after your radiator was replaced
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Old 02-09-05, 12:06 AM   #6 (permalink)
 
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I tried getting the air out of the cooling system by bleeding it. I turned the heat all the way up and open the valve and some coolant was coming out but than it stopped. So I let it sit there for a little while until more coolant was coming out (I had to rev the engine a little). Once the coolant was coming out I closed it up but I still have the problem. Did I do something wrong?
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Old 02-09-05, 01:11 AM   #7 (permalink)
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You only did half the bleeding procedure. Do this:

This is a symptom of low coolant. Dont panic yet, just follow these steps and when you are done watch it closely for leaks. You could have a very small leak anywhere. When you turn your heat to hot it opens the heater control valve to let hot coolant into the heater core, in effect making the capacity of the system larger. If there is not enough coolant you will have an air gap resulting in no heat, temp flux and idle flux.

Do this:
first turn the heat to full hot(opens the heater control valve to let coolant flow).
1. Open bleeder at thermostat housing and remove radiator cap(not resivoir cap).
2. Pour coolant into radiator until a steady stream of coolant without bubbles comes out bleeder.
3. Close bleeder.
4. Leave rad cap off and start engine. As engine warms up top off coolant as air burps out.
5. Massage upper radiator hose to help get air out.*CAUTION COOLANT IS HOT AND WILL BURN YOU* if you squeeze the hose too hard and coolant splashes out on your arm.
6. When engine reaches normal temp it should be good to go. Install radiator cap.
7. fill coolant resivoir to proper level.
8. Drive vehicle and monitor temp. After engine cools down completely remove rad cap and top off if necessary.

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Old 02-10-05, 12:16 AM   #8 (permalink)
 
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Good lookin out. I'm gonna do that and hopefully it will get rid of it. So do you think that his has nothing to do with my air intake and the ECU being stock??
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Old 02-10-05, 12:52 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Nothing. Read this post overheating 101
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Old 05-02-05, 01:20 PM   #10 (permalink)
 
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I had this problem (the erratic idle and low or no radiator fluid, then the temp going close to hot), filled the coolant resvoir and did not feel the erratic idle pulling anymore. No temp problems and no movement in the resvoir level for about a month. BUT I turned the heat on recently and then checked the resvoir and noticed a significant drop in the resvoir but not total loss. seems like the HCV is in the mix for sure. what do you make of this? and what would be the best course of action?
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Old 05-02-05, 01:36 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Old 05-02-05, 01:45 PM   #12 (permalink)
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When you topped off the radiator with the temp selector on cold the HCV was closed and heater core was empty so you still had a large pocket of trapped air. The heater core is the highest point in the cooling system so it looses coolant first. When you turned the temp selector to hot it opened HCV and made the system capacity larger. When it cooled down it sucked coolant from the resivoir to the radiator like it was supposed to. Probably nothing wrong.

For the next couple of mornings(when it's cool) open the radiator cap and top off the coolant and fill the resivoir to the "max line".
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Old 05-02-05, 03:11 PM   #13 (permalink)
 
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thanks for the advice. i appreciate it.
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Old 07-18-06, 05:33 PM   #14 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetdoc
You only did half the bleeding procedure. Do this:

This is a symptom of low coolant. Dont panic yet, just follow these steps and when you are done watch it closely for leaks. You could have a very small leak anywhere. When you turn your heat to hot it opens the heater control valve to let hot coolant into the heater core, in effect making the capacity of the system larger. If there is not enough coolant you will have an air gap resulting in no heat, temp flux and idle flux.

Do this:
first turn the heat to full hot(opens the heater control valve to let coolant flow).
1. Open bleeder at thermostat housing and remove radiator cap(not resivoir cap).
2. Pour coolant into radiator until a steady stream of coolant without bubbles comes out bleeder.
3. Close bleeder.
4. Leave rad cap off and start engine. As engine warms up top off coolant as air burps out.
5. Massage upper radiator hose to help get air out.*CAUTION COOLANT IS HOT AND WILL BURN YOU* if you squeeze the hose too hard and coolant splashes out on your arm.
6. When engine reaches normal temp it should be good to go. Install radiator cap.
7. fill coolant resivoir to proper level.
8. Drive vehicle and monitor temp. After engine cools down completely remove rad cap and top off if necessary.

Jetdoc
This work for the G1 also?
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