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Second Generation Legend (1991-1995)

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Old 03-28-11, 04:12 PM   #61 (permalink)
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Damn I put it forsale and have a buyer coming to pick it up on friday for $1500. The smoke is coming directly behind the metal twisted tube looking thing on top the engine...
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Old 03-28-11, 04:31 PM   #62 (permalink)
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Well I did look back there and to my suprise there IS a hose broken! Maybe it is just a hose
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Old 03-28-11, 04:49 PM   #63 (permalink)
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Well I did look back there and to my suprise there IS a hose broken! Maybe it is just a hose
I really hate it to disappoint you, but I don't believe that a broken hose is the cause
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Old 03-28-11, 05:06 PM   #64 (permalink)
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Do you think a new radiator, thermostat, and all new hoses would fix the overheating problem? The hose that is broken is connected to the back of the engine and is one of the bigger hoses. it's directly behind the idle air control valve. My car drives fine still...just overheats after a short period of time.
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Old 03-28-11, 05:15 PM   #65 (permalink)
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Do you think a new radiator, thermostat, and all new hoses would fix the overheating problem? The hose that is broken is connected to the back of the engine and is one of the bigger hoses. it's directly behind the idle air control valve. My car drives fine still...just overheats after a short period of time.
Ok i see that is the same hose that busted on me one time with a little hole that couldnt be seen and losing coolant on tghe ground until one day it busted.

Replace that hose and change the thermostat get it at Acura Delray i gave you the link before. Also check the water outlet hose for wear and tear. At times the hose may look good but on the inside of it is all worn and done that needs replacement.

After that see if it overheats and don't forget to bleed the coolant as well.

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Old 03-29-11, 04:22 AM   #66 (permalink)
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Do you think a new radiator, thermostat, and all new hoses would fix the overheating problem?
Oh sorry. It was my bad because I got it wrong. Yes, broken hoses can always cause overheatings.

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Replace that hose and change the thermostat get it at Acura Delray i gave you the link before. Also check the water outlet hose for wear and tear. At times the hose may look good but on the inside of it is all worn and done that needs replacement. After that see if it overheats and don't forget to bleed the coolant as well.
Exactly that's the way he has to go Thank you, Sir
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Old 03-29-11, 07:43 AM   #67 (permalink)
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Thank you MikeD and you're welcome.
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Old 05-04-11, 04:38 PM   #68 (permalink)
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Hi guys, im new here, and I purchase a nice modded Ac Legend 91 for a older guy not to long ago. Car ran great for a few days but now its running hot. My father n law check it (who is a mechanic) and said it might be a BHG, but wont be sure unless he's able to dig deeper. When he was able to get to my car, he slipped and hurt himself. Since he told me it might be a BHG, i parked the car and havent drove it since. Thing is I did a little looking around, and it really seems like my water pump isn't circulating, which would also make my car run hot since im not getting any smoke, a/c and heat works great, and no idle hikes. I did find some bubbles on my oil dipstick, but the guy and the stickers proves the car's been sitting for quite some time. Should I check for BHG and replace water pump & timing belt or just the latter? Money has been tight recently due to me being the only one working at the moment. HELP ME...LOL

Hopefully yall can understand my rumbling...sorry! LOL
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Old 05-06-11, 07:32 PM   #69 (permalink)
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From the symptons it could be a BHG, and should be investigated. I think the best way to do is with a leak down test. Remove the radiator cap, place a funnel on top of the radiator and fill it with water, hook up the leak down tester to each cylinder (start at the rear cylinders), turn on the air. If you get bubbles coming up through the radiator then its a BHG for sure.
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Old 05-09-11, 09:53 AM   #70 (permalink)
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Hi all....lots of fun with these BHG's huh? Well I have a '94 LS and it has been so dependable that I hate to part with it. It was getting the HOT spikes and pushing the coolant into the overflow. All of my standard ideas about overheating (which came from years of working on american cars) had to be thrown out the window. The Legend is very different. I had the top HOT hose and bottom cold hose symptom to the radiator, so I took out the thermostat as a test. That did not help, so I wanted to test the water pump. Well, couldn't make any definitive diagnosis on the WP so I just replaced it. That helped a bunch. While I was in there I discovered that the timing was one tooth off on both cams and fixed that. Bleeding the air out is so important with the Legend! Make sure that you have the heat on with the car parked upwards on an incline to make all of the air bubbles come out of the system. So, the car seemed much better, but there was still a problem. The coolant was still being pushed into the overflow tank/resevoir. So, it is a seeping head gasket. I have seend threads where they don't really call it a blown headgasket and I tend to agree because it acts much differently from what is normally seen on American cars. On American cars the coolant system maintains a pretty high pressure and you often get water forced into the oil. But on the Legend the coolant pressure is lower and because of the thin gasket areas on pistons 3 and 6 you get compression gases forced into the water passages. The chicken or the egg syndrome comes into play here because it is difficult to say with any certainty what initially causes the head gasket to start seeping. Could be that overheating from sitting in traffic with the airconditioner on initially causes it. Could be that jumping on the gas too much causes it. Either way the symptoms eventually end up the same. Head warpage and gasket seepage (is that a word?). Right now I am investigating my options and just pouring the coolant from the resevoir back into the radiator on a regular basis. The car runs great (although there is the white exhaust problem, but only a bit...not too bad). The tachometer is rock steady and the car has lots of power. Since I fixed the timing, one tooth off, problem the gas milage is better. I plan to keep driving it this way until I get up the gumption to pull the heads and replace the head gaskets. The only part that really bothers me are the inevitable frozen rusted exhaust manifold nuts. But I'll try to send updates as they happen. I'm sure that I'll have some questions and need some help too.
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Old 05-28-11, 09:37 AM   #71 (permalink)
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HG done & worth it.

I just finished doing my head gaskets, and before had all the symtoms. Now the temp gauge stays one notch under the middle, no fluctuations, even if I give it a good run and max out the RPM's. I put a few hundred miles on it before doing so, let it all break in. I replaced ALL coolant hoses. New water pump, timing belt, tensioner, (kit). I used the Beck Arnley head gasket kit. Heads got milled, cleaned and pressure checked. Then added my Hi-flow exhaust, and for 230,000 miles it sure runs good, or more like awsome. 94 coupe type 2 TCS. Now all I need is the TCS throttle control to get it working. It was missing, I guess PO removed it, put this K&N filter on and chose speed over traction. I want traction, the car will lay a strip 1/4 mile up the road if I'm not careful. Love this car. WTB, TCS throttle control!!!!
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Old 05-30-11, 09:24 AM   #72 (permalink)
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I just finished doing my head gaskets, and before had all the symtoms. Now the temp gauge stays one notch under the middle, no fluctuations, even if I give it a good run and max out the RPM's. I put a few hundred miles on it before doing so, let it all break in. I replaced ALL coolant hoses. New water pump, timing belt, tensioner, (kit). I used the Beck Arnley head gasket kit. Heads got milled, cleaned and pressure checked. Then added my Hi-flow exhaust, and for 230,000 miles it sure runs good, or more like awsome. 94 coupe type 2 TCS. Now all I need is the TCS throttle control to get it working. It was missing, I guess PO removed it, put this K&N filter on and chose speed over traction. I want traction, the car will lay a strip 1/4 mile up the road if I'm not careful. Love this car. WTB, TCS throttle control!!!!
That's great to hear. I am glad you got everything in good working order. Now all you have to do is take care of it.
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Old 06-01-11, 10:58 PM   #73 (permalink)
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Hi all....lots of fun with these BHG's huh? Well I have a '94 LS and it has been so dependable that I hate to part with it. It was getting the HOT spikes and pushing the coolant into the overflow. All of my standard ideas about overheating (which came from years of working on american cars) had to be thrown out the window. The Legend is very different. I had the top HOT hose and bottom cold hose symptom to the radiator, so I took out the thermostat as a test. That did not help, so I wanted to test the water pump. Well, couldn't make any definitive diagnosis on the WP so I just replaced it. That helped a bunch. While I was in there I discovered that the timing was one tooth off on both cams and fixed that. Bleeding the air out is so important with the Legend! Make sure that you have the heat on with the car parked upwards on an incline to make all of the air bubbles come out of the system. So, the car seemed much better, but there was still a problem. The coolant was still being pushed into the overflow tank/resevoir. So, it is a seeping head gasket. I have seend threads where they don't really call it a blown headgasket and I tend to agree because it acts much differently from what is normally seen on American cars. On American cars the coolant system maintains a pretty high pressure and you often get water forced into the oil. But on the Legend the coolant pressure is lower and because of the thin gasket areas on pistons 3 and 6 you get compression gases forced into the water passages. The chicken or the egg syndrome comes into play here because it is difficult to say with any certainty what initially causes the head gasket to start seeping. Could be that overheating from sitting in traffic with the airconditioner on initially causes it. Could be that jumping on the gas too much causes it. Either way the symptoms eventually end up the same. Head warpage and gasket seepage (is that a word?). Right now I am investigating my options and just pouring the coolant from the resevoir back into the radiator on a regular basis. The car runs great (although there is the white exhaust problem, but only a bit...not too bad). The tachometer is rock steady and the car has lots of power. Since I fixed the timing, one tooth off, problem the gas milage is better. I plan to keep driving it this way until I get up the gumption to pull the heads and replace the head gaskets. The only part that really bothers me are the inevitable frozen rusted exhaust manifold nuts. But I'll try to send updates as they happen. I'm sure that I'll have some questions and need some help too.

Definitely get the HG problem resolved ASAP(either by yourself or a reputable shop). You know the problem/s - don't delay as it will get worse and eventually lead to oil/coolant mixture in the engine witch will be a nightmare to clean or destroy the engine completely.
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Old 06-02-11, 12:29 PM   #74 (permalink)
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Hi does anyone know of a good headgasket?
I was reviewing videos from youTube and there is a headgasket replacement on a 2005 honda civic mentioned that the graphite headgasket seals better. Any thoughts on that?
Thanks.

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Old 06-19-11, 09:47 AM   #75 (permalink)
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Getting the HG fixed is so worth it. Don't hesitate. I used the Beck/Arnley head gasket set, close out sale on Rock Auto....I wouldn't hesitate on that either, it's a good buy and a good gasket set. make sure you get the heads machined and cleaned, also good to pay the extra for pressure check. I also used the copper headgasket spray, it does help on older engines, just don't go to thick and let dry. I also let the heads sit on the gaskets, torqued down, for a couple days, then retorqued, then it was about another week before I got it running. Also replaced all coolant hoses, water pump, timing belt....to much invested to have anything go wrong. It just hit 230,000 miles, runs very smooth, coolant gauge sits steady, and love the power when I need it. All I have left now is to replace the Left inner/outer tie rods, align, fix the A/C, and find that stinkin TCS control unit.
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