I just changed the rear brake and rotors a couple of weeks ago. I noticed that the pads on the drivers side were worn different. I continued to clean the calipers and put everything back together. Well today I heard a noise, then later this evening the noise turned into a grinding sound. I was thinking with the uneven wear is that a tell tell sign that the caliper is gone or can I save it with a little grease and replace some parts. Thxs
I had to replace right rear on my Legend back in April of 2009. Mine seized up where the rim was hot enough to cook an egg on. My mechanic charged me $150 to replace it and bleed the system.
trying to get her ready for our road trip up your way. Taking in the sights, check out the Braves, the hair show and making sure we find some good eats. Thxs
try cleaning and greasing the guide pins, also inspect there boots for tears. If there isn't any grease or dirt has gotten in from the boots being torn it will cause your caliper to stick/seize.
GOT IT! GREASED THE PINS, REPLACED THE BOOTS AND WORKED THE PISTON IN AND OUT A COUPLE OF TIMES. WAITNG FOR MY CLOCKSPRING TO ARRIVE SO I CAN TACKLE MY NEXT PROJECT. THXS GUYS FOR ALL THE INSIGHT.
Are BOTH guide pins supposed to work freely? I was helping out with a rear brake job on a '95 sedan today and the upper guide pin seemed to move freely but the bottom one seems to only extend if you screw it outward - is it supposed to come all the way out of the hole on the rear, driver's side? Is this immobility correct/normal? THE cause for all this was the wheel barely rotating after the brake pad change - as if something was stuck or binding. After everything was removed including the rotor, it was apparent that the rotor itself had been rubbing the backing plate (near the strut) at about the 9 o'clock position if you're looking at the wheel from the fender view. Warped rotor or ? Thoughts?
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