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Second Generation Legend (1991-1995)

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Old 05-30-07, 04:28 AM   #1561 (permalink)
 
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use an acura oem replacement thermostat from the dealer only!!!!yah its about 90$ but trust me it is the only one you should ever put in!!no time to explain my story just trust me.
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Old 06-01-07, 04:28 AM   #1562 (permalink)
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I have a question.....My 92 legend sedan five speed is leaking oil into the antifreeze and the antifreeze IS NOT going into the motor....?????
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Old 06-01-07, 09:50 PM   #1563 (permalink)
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BHG

Hey Status01, You have the BHG syndrome. It doesn't really matter what direction the oil is going unless it is mixing with the coolant. Don't mess around. If you overheat too much, you warp the heads and that could cost you several thousand bucks. Headgasket job could be $1500 or less.
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Old 06-02-07, 06:50 AM   #1564 (permalink)
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Thnx man i had people tell me it could be an oil cooler and all sorts of things but i figured head gasket.......i dont even know if the car has an oil cooler....
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Old 06-02-07, 09:24 PM   #1565 (permalink)
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Thanks, Jetdoc for recommending that I check the coolant level in the radiator. My problem was that the coolant in the radiator was a little low. I topped it off and haven't had problems for a few weeks.
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Old 06-03-07, 02:29 AM   #1566 (permalink)
 
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THE ANSWER TO OVERHEATING!

alright so as we all know. The 2nd Gens are terrrrible with overheating. I had the problem and i have now replaced my water pump, heater core, radiator, thermostat... and i havent had problems yet. I think it pretty much leads down to doing the whole shebang cause I have read alot of posts about how people have changed thermostats or water pumps but eventually it all goes out. and now im at a point to where I have a Whole knew cooling system. The crappiest part is the water pump its run by the timing belt and unless you know how to do that go for it.. otherwise have someone else do it.
hope this is help to you.
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Old 06-03-07, 11:27 PM   #1567 (permalink)
 
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How I solved my overheating problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by steerpike View Post
Any developments on this?

I've had my '93 Legend LS from new, now has 143k. About a year ago, started to have cooling issues - temp would soar to max soon after starting, then - after a brief stop - settle down to normal (1 bar under half). I had new rad, new hoses, new thermostat, new pump, over the course of a few months, and things seemed to settle down, though no problems found (also had pressure tests, all was well - incl. cylinder tests).

A year later, I had a repeat incident, where temp would soar, then settle. I had a new thermostat installed. Never has the mechanic actually found a problem. Things seemed fine.

Now, a couple of months later, I just had an incident where I was driving to work and noticed temp at max, and steam from hood. Turned out my rad was leaking, and had to be towed. My mechanic of 10 years said I'd damaged the rad while parking, so replaced it, and ... seemed ok. But yesterday (10 days since the incident), I noticed the temp gauge was at 'half', on the way home - not normal, but I figured, maybe the new rad has less cooling, or something. Today, after driving for a few hours on and off, I was on the freeway and suddenly noticed the temp gauge at max. I started to slow down, and pull over, and the temp immediately dropped, and things seemed back to normal. Tonight, I was stopped for a while idling, and noticed the temp starting to rise ... so I increased rpm a touch, and temp dropped.

I noticed the overflow bottle was between 'max' and the top of the bottle - too full. I can't say if the mechanic over-filled, but I doubt it, so I too seem to be 'taking on water'! The liquid looks a fresh, clean, yellow-green. No steam visible from exhaust.

So this has been going on now for over a year. Car drives beautifully, silky smooth at 80 mph (which I drive every day now, long freeway commute).

Any ideas? Thanks!
I had this exact problem. Took me a long time to figure out the cause but here is how I finally fixed it :

There is a small (5/16"?) hose that starts starts at the upper radiator hose housing (attached to the engine. It goes from the housing to the Idle Air Control valve. It then exits the Idle Air Control Valve and continues to the Throttle Body. It then exits the Throttle Body and goes to the thermostat housing. I found that this is CRITICAL for proper operation of the cooling system.

Here's how it works :

As the water in the engines starts to heat up, the warm water starts to flow through the 5/16" hose. It passes therought the Idle Air Control valve to warm the valve up as soon as possible. This will warm it up sooner than waiting for the entire engine to warm up. Doing this will give peak performance a few minutes sooner than if it were not designed this way, but once the engine has reached full, normal operating temperature, it does not do anything.

The warmed water exiting the Idle Air Control valve then passes throuth the Throttle Body and performs the same function (warm the throttle body sooner rather than later, again, not critical). These two things togther account for an increase of 3 horsepower during the warm-up period.

The warmed water then exits the throttle body and goes directly to the thermostat housing. Here is the critcal part. The point where the warmed water enters the thermostat housing is directly in line with the back side of the thermostat. Basically, the heated water "tinkles" (for lack of a better term) onto the back side of the thermostat causing it to open. It is designed such that if no heated water passes through this 5/16" hose, the thermostat will never open, resulting in hot water from the engine being re-circulated through the engine over and over until overheating occurs.

My diagnosis : The water is being blocked as it passes through the Idle Air Control Valve and /or Throttle Body preventing the water from "tinkling" onto the back of the thermostat.

My solutiuon : Replaced this "daisy chain" with a new, single 5/16" hose going directly from the upper radiator hose housing directly to the thermostat housing (thereby bypassing the Idle Air Control valve and Throttle Body). It takes less than 5 minutes to do it.

NEVER had the problem again.

Cost of repair : $1.79
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Old 06-04-07, 08:42 AM   #1568 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BK_in_NH View Post
I had this exact problem. Took me a long time to figure out the cause but here is how I finally fixed it :

There is a small (5/16"?) hose that starts starts at the upper radiator hose housing (attached to the engine. It goes from the housing to the Idle Air Control valve. It then exits the Idle Air Control Valve and continues to the Throttle Body. It then exits the Throttle Body and goes to the thermostat housing. I found that this is CRITICAL for proper operation of the cooling system.

Here's how it works :

As the water in the engines starts to heat up, the warm water starts to flow through the 5/16" hose. It passes therought the Idle Air Control valve to warm the valve up as soon as possible. This will warm it up sooner than waiting for the entire engine to warm up. Doing this will give peak performance a few minutes sooner than if it were not designed this way, but once the engine has reached full, normal operating temperature, it does not do anything.

The warmed water exiting the Idle Air Control valve then passes throuth the Throttle Body and performs the same function (warm the throttle body sooner rather than later, again, not critical). These two things togther account for an increase of 3 horsepower during the warm-up period.

The warmed water then exits the throttle body and goes directly to the thermostat housing. Here is the critcal part. The point where the warmed water enters the thermostat housing is directly in line with the back side of the thermostat. Basically, the heated water "tinkles" (for lack of a better term) onto the back side of the thermostat causing it to open. It is designed such that if no heated water passes through this 5/16" hose, the thermostat will never open, resulting in hot water from the engine being re-circulated through the engine over and over until overheating occurs.

My diagnosis : The water is being blocked as it passes through the Idle Air Control Valve and /or Throttle Body preventing the water from "tinkling" onto the back of the thermostat.

My solutiuon : Replaced this "daisy chain" with a new, single 5/16" hose going directly from the upper radiator hose housing directly to the thermostat housing (thereby bypassing the Idle Air Control valve and Throttle Body). It takes less than 5 minutes to do it.

NEVER had the problem again.

Cost of repair : $1.79
do you have any pics cause i wanna know what 5/16 hose comes from the upper hose..please
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Old 06-04-07, 07:25 PM   #1569 (permalink)
 
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Sure....here it is :

Notice how the Idle Air Control valve no longer has a hose connected to it.

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Old 06-04-07, 09:16 PM   #1570 (permalink)
 
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Question bk

bk theres no pic.........
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Old 06-05-07, 01:53 AM   #1571 (permalink)
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Hey BK in NH! If you are right about this 5/16 hose; You have solved a million hours and days of frustration for alot of Legendees ( or Legendors) lol.

If you can get that pic on I would be able to see exactly what you mean. It makes so much sense! [email protected]#$$ingbelievable.
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Old 06-05-07, 08:28 AM   #1572 (permalink)
 
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Pictures of the 5/16" hose

Here are two pics.

BK

Last edited by L3GDKANG/JDMKANG; 12-08-09 at 04:01 PM.
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Old 06-05-07, 08:41 AM   #1573 (permalink)
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what goes wrong with this hose?...i mean if its not leakin then its not bad right?..
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Old 06-05-07, 08:07 PM   #1574 (permalink)
 
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Overheating

There are several possibilities. Any contamination in the cooling system water could get trapped inside of the Idle Air Control Valve and/or the throttle body. This is what I believe happed to mine. Or the 5/16" hose could have begun to deteriorate. Before I ever began looking for a solution, I had noticed TINY fragments of what appeared to be rubber material floating in the radiator and the overflow tank. Also, any tiny fragments of rust from normal aging of the radiator and/or heater core. The rubber may have come from the radiator cap deteriating, who knows? I never did take the time to figure out which is clogged (Idle Air Control Voalve or the Throttle Body or other), I was just happy it was resolved.

Bill
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Old 06-05-07, 08:20 PM   #1575 (permalink)
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interesting....very interesting......
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