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Second Generation Legend (1991-1995)

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Old 03-16-04, 01:01 AM   #196 (permalink)
 
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my temp guage is spiking again, heres what ive done so far:

5/2002 - HG replaced
10/2002 - radiator replaced
6/2003 - heater hoses to firewall replaced
10/2003 - radiator replaced (missed 1 year warranty by 2 weeks)
11/2003 - upper rad hose replaced (poosibly due to wrong cap?)

car's been fine since november after replacing the radiator. i saw it was leaking again, wasnt a shot in the dark. i visually inspected the radiator and i dont see steam or residue as i had in the past but i didn't chck underneath car yet. this week is spring break so im gonna try and replace the thermostat and rad cap by saturday and let the car sit all week. i bled yesterday and i did have air in the system. i am also going to check the hoses by the intake and replace the lower rad hose when i do thermostat.

the thing thats confusing me is my heater works perfectly, it never gets cool unless the car just hasnt warmed up yet.

i have almost 1500$ worth of suspension and brake parts sitting in my room that were supposed to be on my car by this weekend, this is really killin me
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Old 03-16-04, 05:43 AM   #197 (permalink)
 
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i solved my problem, i was using the wrong radiator cap

The brand new oem cap was not good on my aftermarket radiator. I must use the 11233 cap instead.

If anyone needs a new stock oem cap, let me know via e-mail.

I WANT EVERYONE TO MAKE SURE THAT THEIR RADIATOR CAP IS NOT BROKEN AND PERFECTLY SEALS THE TOP OF THE RADIATOR. If you have coolant easily flowing into your remote reservoir, where it is bubling inside, you have a faulty cap or the wrong cap.

Last edited by AngelaTheLegend; 03-16-04 at 05:52 AM.
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Old 03-16-04, 05:49 AM   #198 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by OlympusMons
my temp guage is spiking again, heres what ive done so far:

5/2002 - HG replaced
10/2002 - radiator replaced
6/2003 - heater hoses to firewall replaced
10/2003 - radiator replaced (missed 1 year warranty by 2 weeks)
11/2003 - upper rad hose replaced (poosibly due to wrong cap?)

car's been fine since november after replacing the radiator. i saw it was leaking again, wasnt a shot in the dark. i visually inspected the radiator and i dont see steam or residue as i had in the past but i didn't chck underneath car yet. this week is spring break so im gonna try and replace the thermostat and rad cap by saturday and let the car sit all week. i bled yesterday and i did have air in the system. i am also going to check the hoses by the intake and replace the lower rad hose when i do thermostat.

the thing thats confusing me is my heater works perfectly, it never gets cool unless the car just hasnt warmed up yet.

i have almost 1500$ worth of suspension and brake parts sitting in my room that were supposed to be on my car by this weekend, this is really killin me

dude, did you replace your radiator with a stock one????
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Old 03-16-04, 06:09 AM   #199 (permalink)
 
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in both cases, no. the first time i didnt want to do the job myself so i brought it to a radiator shop in the bronx. the second time i just got the rad myself from a parts supplier, it was 3pm on a saturday so i was lucky to get one period let alone a koyo or oem brand.

if i have to replace it again i will be purchasing a koyo off of ebay. im hoping that the thermostat will solve the problem but im skeptical because i have no problems with my heater blowing cold air. i have a tiny bit of optimism because i had the thermostat changed on my sister's eclipse and even though her heater was working, her thermostat was causing the temp guage to fluctuate while under load. but i do realize that our cooling systems are quite unique and very finnicky
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Old 03-17-04, 10:36 AM   #200 (permalink)
 
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Coolant Color

Is this a bad coolant color to have? It is a brownish color, didn't find much info on the forums about that.

A. Oil?
B. Rust?
C. A and B


Another shot:


Bleeder valve story:
OPened no air, no leaking fluid, Squeez on upper hose and the fluid will come out the bleeder hole (SEE PIC ABOVE, that is me squeezing the hose), otherwise nothing comes out. This was after it had been sitting for one hour:


+ Also, After driving hard and I feel the upper and lower hose, would they both be hot, the top was hotter but both hoses were hot.

THANK YOU!!
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Old 03-17-04, 10:44 AM   #201 (permalink)
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Re: Coolant Color

Quote:
Originally posted by Extrovertz
Is this a bad coolant color to have? It is a brownish color, didn't find much info on the forums about that.

A. Oil?
B. Rust?
C. A and B


Another shot:


Bleeder valve story:
OPened no air, no leaking fluid, Squeez on upper hose and the fluid will come out the bleeder hole (SEE PIC ABOVE, that is me squeezing the hose), otherwise nothing comes out. This was after it had been sitting for one hour:


+ Also, After driving hard and I feel the upper and lower hose, would they both be hot, the top was hotter but both hoses were hot.

THANK YOU!!
Uhm... this is a tough one,

The brown color, could be from rust inside your radiator. Is the radiator an all metal one? Has the coolant ever been flushed? or has the radiator ever been replaced?

My car used to do the same thing... I would open the bleed valve and there was not enough pressure to push the air out. When that happend, I would just turn off the car, let it sit a min, start her back up and drive around for about 10min. That fixed the problem. (I still dunno why it fixed the problem)

I just replaced my radiator, and It has not been long enough to tell if it fixed the problem.
Also, I dunno how much squeezing you did to the upper radiator hose, but It could have weakened the inside of the tube. So just as a warning it may burst.

How hot was the lower hose? was it just as hot as the upper hose? My first thoughts are a clogged radiator........ but that still does not account for the missing coolant

but I'll keep yall posted and be sure to let you know if the radiator fixed my similar problem. and as for the low pressure in the cooling system... just be careful, and if necessary, wait another day to bleed the air.
 
Old 03-17-04, 11:36 AM   #202 (permalink)
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Extovertz: It looks like you are getting oil into your coolant, or it's very tired and worn out coolant that is polluted with rust.

Is there any oily film in the bottom of your overflow bottle and residue on the rubber dip tube??

If there is, this is usually a sign of a BHG. That brownish coolant was the first sign of a problem for my car.
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Old 03-17-04, 11:53 AM   #203 (permalink)
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Okay, I've read all the posts here on overheating as much as I could.

I just picked up my car today from the mechanic that repaired my BHG. Had New Head Gaskets and new WP, TB, all hoses including ones on back of block, and behind throttle body replaced. New metal top radiator, new radiator cap. Heads checked for leaks, shaved, and head bolts retorqued at 62 LBS. instead of original 56 factory spec. Also new thermostat.

Honda Acura coolant, new platinum plugs, oil change, all new belts. Runs and sounds great. Have about 85K actual on engine.

Told mechanic to make sure all the hose clamps were tight, because these were real sensitive to air in system.

Drove it home in traffic, temp. guage started to slowly rise. Pulled it over and bled it, but nothing but coolant came out. Started up and it stayed normal for a while, then I got on the highway, stayed normal. Drove it ten miles, then took an off ramp. When I came to a stop, it started to slowly rise. I got back on the highway, and it ran normal temperature, til I got back off and into traffic. I pulled onto a hill, turned on heat to fill the heater core with fluid too, and bled it, got a few bubbles of air, but not much, then stream of coolant. No evidence of a heater core problem. No leakage, no coolant smell etc.

Heard only one fan kick on for about 5 seconds then it turned off, while I was bleeding it. I'm not sure How these are supposed to cycle though.

WHAT ELSE could be causing this??? Could it be the fans or fan relays causing this?

I'm still out of town with it, trying to head back home, and am going to take it to a independent Honda/Acura specialist to look at before I take it back to the guys that did the BHG replacement, first thing in the morning.

Help with any ideas beforehand would be appreciated!!!
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Old 03-17-04, 11:56 AM   #204 (permalink)
 
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Hmmm, yummy me love BHG. SON OF A B. Oh well I was planning on doing a WP, TB, Tensioner, Valve Stem, HG, radiator job all in one so I never have to worry about the car for another 150-200k. Ya I smeel it and it is hard to detect oil, it feels slippery, and when I put it on a paper towel I see brown spotting... prob is oil. AAAAAAAAAAAGggg, cars can be agrivating at times. anyone have $1500 to get all this freakin crap fixed....vent vent.. TY.

PS. My resivoir is empty, I know I am gonna change it all tomorrow. ANy one know how to reverse Flush??

ANyone know if sticking the hose down the upper part is a bad "power flush method?

It wasn't as hot as the upper, but still felt hot. I could hold it longer than the upper one. This is after redlining a few times and driving hard from work to home.....
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Old 03-17-04, 12:07 PM   #205 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by Josh
Okay, I've read all the posts here on overheating as much as I could.

I just picked up my car today from the mechanic that repaired my BHG. Had New Head Gaskets and new WP, TB, all hoses including ones on back of block, and behind throttle body replaced. New metal top radiator, new radiator cap. Heads checked for leaks, shaved, and head bolts retorqued at 62 LBS. instead of original 56 factory spec. Also new thermostat.
How much did all this cost you??
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Old 03-17-04, 12:30 PM   #206 (permalink)
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You won't believe the price 1100.00 and I got the left rear broken trannie mount replaced for an extra 200 ( he said the part alone cost him 140.00...dealer wanted 350.00 to do just that repair). Total 1300 out the door, and they have a real nice clean shop and professional mechanics. I think they underestimated a little how long it would take though even though they claimed they'd done it before.
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Old 03-18-04, 03:45 AM   #207 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by Josh
You won't believe the price 1100.00 and I got the left rear broken trannie mount replaced for an extra 200 ( he said the part alone cost him 140.00...dealer wanted 350.00 to do just that repair). Total 1300 out the door, and they have a real nice clean shop and professional mechanics. I think they underestimated a little how long it would take though even though they claimed they'd done it before.

You are right, I dont believe it. All I got to say is if it sounds too good to be true it usually is. When you do a Head Gasket job you arent just replacing the head gasket, you have to replace almost every gasket in the motor that was taken off. It is a kit with about 99 gaskets and seals in it. It is a very expensive item even if you are an auto parts store you cant buy it for less than $400 and retail is closer to $700, plus you have to mill the heads(i bet they didnt) and have the valve seals put in, thats almost another $200. If you bring this car to a mechanic shop and they say they will do it for $1100 including parts I would worry bout them cutting corners. Pay to have it done right the 1st time. I'm not even including the price for new oil,filters, hell a new thermostat alone is another $30. Word to the wise make sure you just dont let the cheapest person fix your car. I dont think there is any shop in the world that would do this job the correct way for $1100, you should ask for all the old parts. Just my opinion.
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Old 03-18-04, 07:13 AM   #208 (permalink)
 
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Unhappy Count me in ... *sigh

I'm one of the newest members of the BHG club. No, really, I want to cry. I've had a helluva day.

Anyway, I won't bore you with the specifics ... I've had much the same problems as u all ... you can see some of my initial posts about my engine revving. Anyway, I took it to a shop today who confirmed a BHG (when the dealer couldn't) and gave me a price of $1600. I don't think that includes anything other than the gasket job. He told me it was labor intensive and about $1200 was labor alone.
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Old 03-18-04, 07:19 AM   #209 (permalink)
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Re: Count me in ... *sigh

Quote:
Originally posted by Fleecylocks
I'm one of the newest members of the BHG club. No, really, I want to cry. I've had a helluva day.

Anyway, I won't bore you with the specifics ... I've had much the same problems as u all ... you can see some of my initial posts about my engine revving. Anyway, I took it to a shop today who confirmed a BHG (when the dealer couldn't) and gave me a price of $1600. I don't think that includes anything other than the gasket job. He told me it was labor intensive and about $1200 was labor alone.
I feelya. That price is reasonaible. The gaskets (HG and other needed gaskets) can run you a good $400 and then be careful of the knock sensors. Good luck man, and keep us posted on whats happening.
 
Old 03-18-04, 11:59 AM   #210 (permalink)
 
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Angry HELP ME

Changed Coolant, Oil, Diff, and new spark plugs.

Driving home from the free shop they have on Base when stoping and in gear I get a VERY rough idle. I adjusted the idle screw(when I got home) too but that didn't change anything it still had this putt putt putt sound comming out of the motor. I am stumped. Did anyone else experience this after a coolant change?

Temp was fine all the way home and fans kicked on. I even did a reverse flush (Put a hose in the upper rad hose and let the temp sensor push all the crap out, water came out really BROWN).

Let me know any thoughts/IDEAS of what my prob is. THank you!!

ON the bright side after the Diff change WOW, shiffting is so much better, don't know, thought it was seperate of tranny but it is definately way smoother on shifting. Adios.
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