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Second Generation Legend (1991-1995)

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Old 03-28-12, 10:09 AM   #2806 (permalink)
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That' a bunch of testing! First, I have not done cylinder leakage test, or talked to someone about what to expect in findings, but from what you report, and pending the results of yout next leak test, we are back to cooling issues.

When you refer to FCU, you mean the fan control unit, I think. For a view of the system's electrics, see Acura Legend Online Service Manual (Page: 1071) and the following pages. Do you still suspect that the fans are not working properly?

On the water pump, the manual simply says to look for leaks, not just weeping. However, water pumps can fail in terms of impeller deterioration (don't ask me how), which leads to cavitation. Checking for such insufficient or irregular pumping may require speaking to an expert, or maybe there is something available through Google.
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Old 04-09-12, 12:31 AM   #2807 (permalink)
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Well guys it's a BHG. I got my UVIEW 560000 Combustion Leak Tester kit in last week and it showed positive. I still was not giving in, so I made one last ditched effort and went to pick-n-pull, got a fan control and a fan timer unit. It was the last possible problem but it still boiled over from the radiator into the overflow. So Friday evening I started taking her apart and found someone had wrenched on her before. Who ever it was should not be allowed to work on cars. Anyway long story short, number 3 cylinder was the problem child. Let me tell you if you haven't done one yet, the back side of this engine (firewall area) is a bear to work on. I will be checking heads tomorrow to see if they are within tolerance. I just hope nothings warped or cracked. "Thanks for the tips"

Last edited by 4HondaOwner; 04-09-12 at 06:09 AM.
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Old 04-09-12, 11:10 AM   #2808 (permalink)
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Sorry to hear the bad news. In case you have not read this piece, Google "Why Legend Head Gaskets Blow & How to Prevent it." There are also guides for repairing the BHGs. Good luck!
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Old 04-10-12, 12:27 PM   #2809 (permalink)
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wow, great article dude. Thanks !! It's not so bad, I wanted to get to know more about this assume vehicle. lol Tell you the truth it's a great day when you do all you can to determine a problem step by step and you are right. I am glad at this point to see a BHG. A bad day is when you open the engine and find you were wrong, now that's a bad day. I pray that never happens to me. :-)
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Old 04-13-12, 12:02 PM   #2810 (permalink)
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What is my next step?

I have a 1994 Acura Legend LS 3.2 THAT HAS 160K miles and I am having a really bad overheating problem. One day my car will work fine and then the next day the temp guage spikes like crazy. The day it was spiking so bad I had noticed it was doing alot better on the highways doing 60+ but everytime i had a red light or city driving it was overheating really bad. I had already replaced the thermostat when I first bought the car (Mid January) and i used a product called Blue Devil to seal up any gaskets and any other leaks i could possibly have in the cooling system. So where do I go next?


- Could I just bypass my fan switch so that the fans are always opperating?

- Could I just take the thermostat out to have a free flowing system with no obstructions?

- Just give me any suggestion that will work so it can get me back and forth to work!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE HELP ME, I AM SOOOOO TIRED OF PUTTING MY HARD EARNED DOLLARS INTO THIS STUBBORN A$$ CAR!!!
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Old 04-13-12, 07:04 PM   #2811 (permalink)
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Cooling System Leaking Somewhere . . . but Where??

Hello,

This seems to be an ongoing problem with my '91 Legend Coupe. I first noticed it last summer when the car was overheating. A AAA mechanic shop changed the thermostat after I had it towed, along with the hoses which had ballooned up. But by winter, the engine overheated again. I tried a new mechanic and he noticed that the AAA shop had installed a faulty used thermostat. So he bought a new one. But then I noticed I was losing radiator fluid. So a couple of months later he ran a pressure test on the cooling system for the second time and found a small radiator leak (well, I was still on the OEM radiator). So I paid him $250 and he replaced the radiator. But a few weeks later the car was overheating again and this time I didn't catch it until the engine almost shut down. I've been trying to schedule an appointment with my mechanic ever since, but he seems reluctant to attempt to solve the problem. There has to be a leak somewhere! I'm going through a bottle of antifreeze every week! I can't see anything dripping from below the car. I replaced the water pump with the timing belt 3 years ago. So I don't think it's that. I have 171K on the odometer now. What is going on?? Thank you to anyone who thinks they can solve my problem!!
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Old 04-14-12, 02:52 PM   #2812 (permalink)
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An easy but effective way to diagnose the head gasket is shown in the following pictures:
-a balloon connected to a hose (connection must seal well, gas must not be leaking)
-Hose connected to the reservoir connector of the radiator
-Put the hose through a window into the car to watch the balloon while driving.

Starting with the engine cold, about 0.1L coolant is pushed into the balloon together with the air from the hose. This typically takes about 15 minutes until the operating temperature of the engine is in normal range.

This test may show diffrent results depending on the condition of the engine:

-head gasket in good condition: after the engine is warm, the size of the balloon stays constant even when you drive more than 100km. While the engine cools down, teh balloon collapses again.

-seeping head gasket: while driving, gas is accumulating inside the balloon. In early stage of the damage, it takes about 100km to have the balloon filled. Typically, you will find about 15% coolant and 85% gas in it. Whole driving, you can see gas bubbles moving inside the hose towards the balloon. The size of the bubbles is depending on the engine load. After the car has cooled down again, the balloon stays full. The picture has been taken after driving 200km with 8 h of time to let it cool down. The yellow lines mark the size of air bubbles inside the hose in cold condition.

-blown head gasket: while driving, gas and coolant is pushes into the balloon very fast. After 50km or less the balloon has reached its full size and the test must be stopped to prevent it from bursting. As with the seeping head gasket, the balloon stays full with the engine cooled down.

-Broken thermostat: Engine overheats, but only little gas is accumulated. However, hot coolant is pushed out of the cooling system inside the balloon. If the condition of the thermostat is not known to be good, replace it.

Before you start this test, the following conditions have to be ensured:

-The cooling system is filled correctly with the right type and mixture ratio of coolant.
-All air is bled out of the cooling system while the enhgine is still cold.
-The radiator cap is working fine and sealing properly, so the radiator hoses are pressurized with the engine warm.
-No external leak like damaged hose or broken radiator is visible.
Attached Thumbnails
Is your 91-95 Legend overheating?  Got a coolant problem? Post all questions in here.-radiator1.jpg   Is your 91-95 Legend overheating?  Got a coolant problem? Post all questions in here.-radiator2.jpg  
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Old 04-14-12, 07:34 PM   #2813 (permalink)
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So I replaced my c32a with a jap import c32a. Here's what happened...

I go to the shop today to pick it up. I drive to the gas station about a quarter mile away. All seems fine, the car is running like a champ. I drive back to the shop, then after a brief convo with the mechanic, I start to go home. About a half mile away from the shop, as soon as I get on the highway, the temp gauge shoots up, and I pull over immediately about a quarter mile away. I turn off the engine, get out, and open the hood. I can now see that coolant has leaked onto the street in the parking lot where I pulled over. I proceed to open the radiator cap, and there's some steam. I start to put in anti freeze, and I notice it takes about 1/3 of the bottle.

I drive back to the shop, which is less than a quarter mile away, and as soon as I get within a few hundred feet of the gate, the temp is shooting up again... I turn the car off immediately.

He says there might be air in the system, refills the rad with about the same amount of coolant i just replaced. Car is not overheating while idling for about 15 minutes. He tells me to start it back up, and now the engine is missing periodically. He checks the spark plugs and says that they are working properly, and that perhaps it's one of the injectors, because the car had been sitting for a while with old gas (I just put about $10 of v-power in at the gas station, it was on E, but the gas light wasn't on). He tells me to go for another drive.

I drive about a 5 mile trip to a friends car audio shop, when I get there, there seems to be a small amount of coolant still dripping from the same spot that seems to be coming from below the overflow reservoir, no over heating.

I drive back to the shop, and as soon as I stop at the stop light about a block from the shop, the temp gauge shoots up, and by the time I pull into the shop, the coolant is dumped on the floor, and coolant is shooting into the overflow. He feels the upper rad house and he says it's hot. He feels the lower radiator house, and says it's cool. He decides that it must be a faulty thermostat.

When the engine was replaced, the water pump, timing belt, differential and main seals, radiator hoses, THERMOSTAT, and the EGR was cleaned and serviced.

Both fans are functioning properly from what I can see, and continue running when the car is off...

The engine was a jap c32a non jdm bought from an import shop that claims all their engines have less than 60k on them.

Should I allow him to change the themostat AGAIN? Shoud I get an OEM thermostat directly from the dealer myself first? Should I demand a leak down test? Anyone with a similar experience, or can give me some advice based on what I've described would be immensely appreciated.

I should note I have a non-working VSS, could this be the cause of the engine missing?
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Old 04-14-12, 07:35 PM   #2814 (permalink)
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sorry, for some reason I got a double post...
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Old 04-14-12, 07:54 PM   #2815 (permalink)
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A broken thermostat would cause the temperature to increase relatively slowly and the cooling system would push coolant into the reservoir. Are the radiator hoses pressurized before the engine is hot (e.g. after 2km)? If yes, replace head gaskets or try the test shown above...

I'd never install an old, used engine without replacing the head gaskets first. Graphite type head gaskets are wearing parts and it's much easier to replace them on a engine not installed in the car yet.
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Old 04-14-12, 08:06 PM   #2816 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel_S View Post
A broken thermostat would cause the temperature to increase relatively slowly and the cooling system would push coolant into the reservoir. Are the radiator hoses pressurized before the engine is hot (e.g. after 2km)? If yes, replace head gaskets or try the test shown above...

I'd never install an old, used engine without replacing the head gaskets first. Graphite type head gaskets are wearing parts and it's much easier to replace them on a engine not installed in the car yet.
I never got a chance to see if it's pressurized before the engine is hot... I suppose I can try the test, but I'm not very mechanically inclined. The car is still at the shop. A leak down test is not sufficient?
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Old 04-14-12, 10:28 PM   #2817 (permalink)
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I have been running my '92 Legend for five years virtually problem free. I had a very strange event last night and I want to make sure it won't lead to bigger issues. I drive 60 miles round trip per day on the freeway and never have any overheating issues.

Last night I got off the freeway after about a 20 minute 70MPH run and stopped in a parking garage to drop off my wife to pick up her car. I let the Legend idle while waiting. I was surprised to see the temperature guage about two notches below hot as I sat there.

I took off for home and the guage dropped right away and stayed there. I let it idle in the driveway but no problem. I turned it off and both fans were running.

This morning I checked the fluid level and it was fine, I cracked open the radiator cap and it hissed as the seal was broken. I don't see any other leaks. Today it ran fine all day although without any freeway driving. Anyone have any ideas?
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Old 04-27-12, 12:54 AM   #2818 (permalink)
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Don't waste your money.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hoodlikegaza View Post
So I replaced my c32a with a jap import c32a. Here's what happened...

I go to the shop today to pick it up. I drive to the gas station about a quarter mile away. All seems fine, the car is running like a champ. I drive back to the shop, then after a brief convo with the mechanic, I start to go home. About a half mile away from the shop, as soon as I get on the highway, the temp gauge shoots up, and I pull over immediately about a quarter mile away. I turn off the engine, get out, and open the hood. I can now see that coolant has leaked onto the street in the parking lot where I pulled over. I proceed to open the radiator cap, and there's some steam. I start to put in anti freeze, and I notice it takes about 1/3 of the bottle.

I drive back to the shop, which is less than a quarter mile away, and as soon as I get within a few hundred feet of the gate, the temp is shooting up again... I turn the car off immediately.

He says there might be air in the system, refills the rad with about the same amount of coolant i just replaced. Car is not overheating while idling for about 15 minutes. He tells me to start it back up, and now the engine is missing periodically. He checks the spark plugs and says that they are working properly, and that perhaps it's one of the injectors, because the car had been sitting for a while with old gas (I just put about $10 of v-power in at the gas station, it was on E, but the gas light wasn't on). He tells me to go for another drive.

I drive about a 5 mile trip to a friends car audio shop, when I get there, there seems to be a small amount of coolant still dripping from the same spot that seems to be coming from below the overflow reservoir, no over heating.

I drive back to the shop, and as soon as I stop at the stop light about a block from the shop, the temp gauge shoots up, and by the time I pull into the shop, the coolant is dumped on the floor, and coolant is shooting into the overflow. He feels the upper rad house and he says it's hot. He feels the lower radiator house, and says it's cool. He decides that it must be a faulty thermostat.

When the engine was replaced, the water pump, timing belt, differential and main seals, radiator hoses, THERMOSTAT, and the EGR was cleaned and serviced.

Both fans are functioning properly from what I can see, and continue running when the car is off...

The engine was a jap c32a non jdm bought from an import shop that claims all their engines have less than 60k on them.

Should I allow him to change the themostat AGAIN? Shoud I get an OEM thermostat directly from the dealer myself first? Should I demand a leak down test? Anyone with a similar experience, or can give me some advice based on what I've described would be immensely appreciated.

I should note I have a non-working VSS, could this be the cause of the engine missing?
hoodlikegaza, don't do like I did.
You said they cleaned and serviced the EGR was it clogged ?

I would go get the tester kit below. If coolant is blowing into your overflow and spilling over, get the tester.

UVIEW Combustion Block Leak Test For Gas & Diesel - 560000

It's like $50, so it's cheaper then a shop invoice, and very easy to use. You either lower the coolant about halfway in your radiator and run the engine till it boils over, then run the test from the radiator upper tank. Or run the test straight from the overflow reservoir like I did. (just read the instructions) Just make sure not to run the test if coolant is to high. Sucking in coolant will contaminate the test fluid.

Or you can do test after test like I did ( pressure test cooling sys, leak down test "all negative"). (Change thermostat, radiator cap, sensor after sensor, fan control and even the fan timer) All in hopes that I didn't have a "BHG". (if you do it your self like I do it not so $$bad$$) Long story short, my Legend had a BHG !

Knowing what I know now, I would test for combustion gas in cooling system if it's positive BHG. (simple as that) Then make sure to look at the EGR system, if its clogged. Use a wire bristled rod and make sure to rod out all of the EGR passages and flush them with solvent. Then get er done "BHG" that is.

Just don't like I did.

I hope this helps, good luck.
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Old 04-27-12, 07:04 AM   #2819 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjsilvasr View Post
If coolant is blowing into your overflow and spilling over, get the tester.
It's past tester time when you are blowing coolant into the overflow bottle. Been there, done that, had the engine rebuilt and then due to real shitty work, replaced it with a JDM Type II engine.





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Old 04-27-12, 08:36 AM   #2820 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4HondaOwner View Post
20 minutes with the Lisle Funnel. Best $30 I've ever spent.
Well I wish y'all didn't sugarcoat it when I was asking about coolant blowing in to overflow.

Coolant blowing in to overflow = BHG. DON'T

! Y'ALL GOT THAT !
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