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Second Generation Legend (1991-1995)

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Old 05-19-12, 02:17 PM   #2836 (permalink)
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Yeah, I would be careful. Good luck!
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Old 05-21-12, 09:16 PM   #2837 (permalink)
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Cool WHY UR LEGEND LEAKS - GARANTEED

LOOK AT THE WIRING HARNESS ATTACHMENT TO TOP OF RADIATOR TANK. Just follow the stock plug wires, they go thru a " loop" attached to inside top of radiator tank. After years of use & vibrating it causes a tiny leak RIGHT AT THE POINT OF ATTACHMENT. Simply remove plug wires off this holder. Not really needed, or use a little electrical tape to hold wires off. THIS SHOULD HAVE BEEN AN ACURA SERVICE BULLETIN 10 years ago. My radiator on 93 Legend started dripping at 110,000 miles. Dealer wanted to replace radiator ($500.00). Complained to area Service Rep. for Acura, they replaced radiator for free, that worthless little mount screwed into back top of tank disappeared. SO DID ANY LEAKS, AIR, OVERHEATING, period. Take a look. That's my experience.
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Last edited by 4HondaOwner; 05-22-12 at 10:38 AM.
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Old 05-22-12, 10:33 AM   #2838 (permalink)
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post a picture?
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Old 05-29-12, 10:42 PM   #2839 (permalink)
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Alright, Not sure how this works... But my thermo-meter or whatever the hell you want to call it

goes up to (HOT) like, on the RED. (if i let it) and it will stay there, if i put the car in park, or drive even. and FLOOR IT, TO THE GROUND. the temperature is randomly... instantly... fine again.

I'm really starting to wonder if my engine is even getting hot because i've never seen a 60degree change in temperature going UP and DOWN occur in 2 seconds both ways.
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Old 05-30-12, 08:47 AM   #2840 (permalink)
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Sounds like it could be the temp gauge sensor which is located behind the bleeder screw on top of the engine.

Also have you changed anything-thermostat, radiator- in the coolant system lately? These engines trap air in all sorts of places, and a bubble of air/steam will make the temp gauge go wild.
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Old 06-04-12, 06:52 PM   #2841 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Chris1327 View Post
Alright, Not sure how this works... But my thermo-meter or whatever the hell you want to call it

goes up to (HOT) like, on the RED. (if i let it) and it will stay there, if i put the car in park, or drive even. and FLOOR IT, TO THE GROUND. the temperature is randomly... instantly... fine again.

I'm really starting to wonder if my engine is even getting hot because i've never seen a 60degree change in temperature going UP and DOWN occur in 2 seconds both ways.
I have this problem as well. I think its just pockets of air passing through your cooling system. does your car do this on hills?
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Old 06-17-12, 11:43 AM   #2842 (permalink)
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I have a 95 Legend L. I've been having overheating problem since I bought it a few months ago. When I drive on the highway the temp needle is normal. After driving low speeds it goes up. I replaced the sensor in the bottom of the radiator, the sensor on top of the engine, flushed radiator, then replaced radiator, both hoses, thermostat twice, belt and w/pump, had pressure test done (passed), had air bled from system, replaced cap and still have the problem. I think the fans work ok. They come on occasionally. I'm not sure how often they are suppose to come on. The coolant pushes out through the overflow tank when it gets hot and I always have to had more everytime I drive it. The bottom hose is rarely hot. Sometimes its not hot at all when the car is overheating. What causes this???? Now I've notices my car sounding like it's skipping a couple days ago. I think the overheating has finally made something else worse. After reading all these symtoms, does anyone know what the problem is with this car?
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Old 06-17-12, 08:11 PM   #2843 (permalink)
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Since you are new to the Acura legends, and new to this forum, you might want to read some of the earlier posts with problems in this thread. You certainly have addressed many of the problem areas already. But the big thing in these cars is getting all of the air out of the coolant system, whenever you have opened it up. You mentioned that you had the system bled. If I were you, I would check the bleeder screw in the morning. If you get air, bubbles out of it, that is something that has to be attended to. Air in the system will drive the temp gauge up, because the air/steam rises to the top of the engine, right near where the temp gauge sender is.

Hopefully, your system is still w/o leaks-you mentioned a pressure test, so it sounds OK.

Your fans should both come on when the engine is overheating. To check that the fan motors are alright, turn on the AC-that should turn on the fans.

With all the work done on the cooling system, I suspect that there still is air in there. Hopefull, the skipping you mentioned is air fooling the idle control system, which works off of the coolant temp.

Also, I would not drive the car when it is overheating. Unfortunately, the head gaskets on these cars will blow after too much steam pressure on them. That's a big job to correct.
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Old 06-18-12, 05:03 PM   #2844 (permalink)
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I was told yesterday that there's probably air in my system. I tried to get it out with the bleeder but I don't think I got all of it out. I'll keep working at it. I read a few threads on this site and found a few problems that were similar to mine but still had some differences. I was also informed by an acquaintance shortly after I bought the car about their hg problems. And the fans do come on with the AC on. I think only one of the fans came on. I believe the condensor fan. The fans don't always come on when it overheats though. Maybe there's air near the fan sensor causng them not to come on sometimes. I thought maybe the relay was faulty so I switched the fan relay with the relay beside it lastnite to see what would happen but still the same result. The skip I mentioned stopped then stated again when the car got too hot so I see now that it's not a permanent problem. I just need to get this damn temp problem under control. Thank you for the reply and I'll work on that air pocket to see if that'll solve it.
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Old 06-18-12, 08:07 PM   #2845 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keshaw0924 View Post
I was told yesterday that there's probably air in my system. I tried to get it out with the bleeder but I don't think I got all of it out.
You need a Lisle Funnel system to get all of the air out of your system.

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Old 06-22-12, 07:05 PM   #2846 (permalink)
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Has anyone ever triedthe Blue Devil product for repairing head gaskets? I've heard only good things about it from atleast 5 people. I guess it might be worth a try for someone with a blown head gasket. $60 for the product versus $800 or more for bhg repair.
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Old 06-22-12, 09:37 PM   #2847 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by keshaw0924 View Post
Has anyone ever triedthe Blue Devil product for repairing head gaskets? I've heard only good things about it from atleast 5 people. I guess it might be worth a try for someone with a blown head gasket. $60 for the product versus $800 or more for bhg repair.
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Old 07-02-12, 01:34 AM   #2848 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by BK_in_NH
I had this exact problem. Took me a long time to figure out the cause but here is how I finally fixed it :

There is a small (5/16"?) hose that starts starts at the upper radiator hose housing (attached to the engine. It goes from the housing to the Idle Air Control valve. It then exits the Idle Air Control Valve and continues to the Throttle Body. It then exits the Throttle Body and goes to the thermostat housing. I found that this is CRITICAL for proper operation of the cooling system.

Here's how it works :

As the water in the engines starts to heat up, the warm water starts to flow through the 5/16" hose. It passes therought the Idle Air Control valve to warm the valve up as soon as possible. This will warm it up sooner than waiting for the entire engine to warm up. Doing this will give peak performance a few minutes sooner than if it were not designed this way, but once the engine has reached full, normal operating temperature, it does not do anything.

The warmed water exiting the Idle Air Control valve then passes throuth the Throttle Body and performs the same function (warm the throttle body sooner rather than later, again, not critical). These two things togther account for an increase of 3 horsepower during the warm-up period.

The warmed water then exits the throttle body and goes directly to the thermostat housing. Here is the critcal part. The point where the warmed water enters the thermostat housing is directly in line with the back side of the thermostat. Basically, the heated water "tinkles" (for lack of a better term) onto the back side of the thermostat causing it to open. It is designed such that if no heated water passes through this 5/16" hose, the thermostat will never open, resulting in hot water from the engine being re-circulated through the engine over and over until overheating occurs.

My diagnosis : The water is being blocked as it passes through the Idle Air Control Valve and /or Throttle Body preventing the water from "tinkling" onto the back of the thermostat.

My solutiuon : Replaced this "daisy chain" with a new, single 5/16" hose going directly from the upper radiator hose housing directly to the thermostat housing (thereby bypassing the Idle Air Control valve and Throttle Body). It takes less than 5 minutes to do it.

NEVER had the problem again.

Cost of repair : $1.79

well, all i can say is that for the first time, my fan is kick on when is about to over heat. i can see the temp. when up just a little bit. And then the fan kick on n it when back down.Thank BK in NH.

Last edited by swone-1; 07-02-12 at 07:39 PM. Reason: change some words
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Old 07-02-12, 02:25 AM   #2849 (permalink)
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Quote from keshaw0924

Has as anyone ever triedthe Blue Devil product for repairing head gaskets? I've heard only good things about it from atleast 5 people. I guess it might be worth a try for someone with a blown head gasket. $60 for the product versus $800 or more for bhg repair.


you will do more damage than good. it will kill water pump in a long run, also might damage radiator. it might last a couple months.

Last edited by swone-1; 07-02-12 at 07:46 PM. Reason: add quote
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Old 07-04-12, 01:06 PM   #2850 (permalink)
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Interesting diagnosis of a problem. What I think needs to be determined first though is what is blocking the coolant (as you wrote: "if no heated water passes through this 5/16" hose"). I cannot not swearto/prove this but I suspect that it is air caught somewhere in the bends of the hoses that cuts off/reduces coolant flow through that section. My wife's '92 starts OK but with maybe 200 higher than normal rpm, and then settles down as the engine warms up. I ran the tests for the idle control valve as per the manual and there was no problem indicated. Any ideas?
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