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Second Generation Legend (1991-1995)

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Old 12-14-05, 08:28 PM   #901 (permalink)
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My legend experienced the typical symtoms as many of us here have described here: the occasional spiking of the needle to "H" and quickly falling back to normal, and the occasional lack of heat blowing out when heat is turned on.

These systems are a sure sign of air in the system which is a result of a leak somewhere in the coolant system. My mechanic friend did a pressure test by hooking pressure gauge up to the radiator and having the engine run. The whole time the engine is iddling and with the engine's RPM at 2000, the gauge read 5psi. It did not change a bit. From from, it seems that there is no sign of increased pressure being introduced to the system via the headgasket.

My question is, with just the occasional spiking of the gauge needle and the lack of heat, has my legend overheated? At what point can we say with certainty that the engine had overheated beside the obvious: coolant boiling out of the radiator and engine smoking?

I don't mind spending the money to replace the hg but I rather not if there is no BHG.

If my engine is just showing signs of a leak which introduced air in the coolant system rather than a BHG, I rather find and fix that leak and bleed the air out of the system instead of spending money on fixing the gasket when there is no BHG. Or should I spend the money now and fix the HG any because eventually, a BHG is inevitable as a result of what the car had experienced.

Please share with me your opinions.

Thanks.
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Old 12-15-05, 05:54 PM   #902 (permalink)
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why dont you test where the leak is coming from first... leak down test. compression test
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Old 12-15-05, 08:48 PM   #903 (permalink)
 
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you should try replacing the heater control valve and the fast idle valve... that should solve your problem....
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Old 12-16-05, 02:53 AM   #904 (permalink)
 
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Here's my problem:

- Temperature Needle Spiking
- Cold Air Blowing Inside Car
- Already Busted and fixed 2 anti-freeze hoses, back to back, within 2 days apart, the small one in front and small in back of motor going into inside of car for heat
- Seems like big anti-freeze hose has lots of pressure, and is too Firm

I just had Thermostat replaced, and the only thing that did was give me luke warm air, instead of cold air, so now i don't freeze to death.

I think i know what's going on but don't know whats causing it...

So here's what i notice...

If i let car idle in park, running for say 15 minutes, the temperature gauge creeps up slowly and goes to "H", fan may or may not kick in, if it kicks in the temp still stays on "H"
If I then hit the gas hard (to 6k RPM) for a few seconds, i hear the anti-freeze gushing LOUDLY through back of motor, near windshield, the car smokes like crazy, and the temperature QUICKLY drops back to normal.

I believe somehow, the anti-freeze is not flowing properly, it builds up, causing Thermostat into thinking it's overheating, and then, a big acceleration to 6k RPM, forces the coolant to gush & flow through car like it's supposed to.

Can someone PLEASE let me know if you have these symptoms, and what it is, and what to do, ?? PLEASE... I'm hoping it's not the Head Gasket, but rather a water pump, radiator thingy..

Any replies/help would be greatly appreciated
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Old 12-16-05, 06:31 AM   #905 (permalink)
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You have air in the cooling system. Did you bleed the air out of the system properly when you serviced it up after changing the hoses? It you did and you have no leaks, you probably have a blown head gasket. It's actually just seeping. Read this post for detailed info on what's happening.
overheating 101
and this post for my trip down the headgasket highway
my bhg

If you have never dealt with Legend overheating problems, you have a little training to do. Lucky for you, I've allready been there and willing to help.
How many miles on it and did you just buy it?
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Old 12-16-05, 10:43 AM   #906 (permalink)
 
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well i did see the mechanic bleeding it after changing thermostat, but not sure if he did it right, i don't see any leaks... could it be a bad water pump?

anyone else have this problem? it just seems that the antifreeze does not flow, it gets stuck somewhere, and when i really accelerate hard, it causes so much pressure that it forces teh coolant through whatever is blocking it, and hence the loud gushing flowing of antifreeze which i hear, and the instant drop in temperature back to normal..


please help....,
Lee
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Old 12-16-05, 02:22 PM   #907 (permalink)
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Talking

Perhaps your thermostat is working properly if you can hear coolant flow.
When the temp. is hot enough the thermostat opens and circulate coolant into the radiator to be cooled. If both radiator hoses(upper and lower) are hot
than your thermostat is openning.

Next check for pressure in radiator and hydrocarbon for blown head gasket.

Let me just say "welcome to the blown head gasket" club.
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Old 12-16-05, 04:02 PM   #908 (permalink)
 
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Hey Everyone,

But what's trapping the Coolant from Flowing? Could air totally bloak it? They did blled it.
It seems something (more than air) is holding it back, and only gets released with a HARD acceleration, and then it Gushes through LOWDLY and temp. drops instantly....

anyone?
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Old 12-16-05, 06:29 PM   #909 (permalink)
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Quote:
anyone else have this problem?
YES Many many of us have had this same problem. This is the way a Legend acts when it has air in the cooling system. Did you read the "overheating 101" post? It's . I know it's tough to believe. I had a hard time believing it when it happened to me. The chance of the water pump causing this problem is about 1%. Things that let air into the system are"
1. bad radiator cap
2. a leak in a hose or radiator
3. Seeping head gasket.

If the mechanic you are dealing with doesn't have experiance with the Legend cooling system then you are in for a long, drawn out diagnosis. I would take it to a shop with Legend expertise. You will save money in the long run.
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Old 12-17-05, 06:45 PM   #910 (permalink)
 
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ok, here's what else i notice,:

the main hose (BIG ONE) which comes out of radiator on top, gets SO , SO swollen,
it seems like its gonna burst... I mean it gets, very hard/stiff , hot which is normal, but REALLY , REALLY expanded,

i KNOW that the anti-freeze in NOT flowing thriough car, only when i accelerate reaaly hard, then the coolant untraps itself,

could this be the heater core which is trapping the coolant? is it clogged/blocked?

this would explain the needle rising, the cold air inside car, etc...

i hear this part is cheap but labor is epensive, as you must remove dash.

has anyone done this? should i attempt, or am i wating my time,

could a BHG, cause my main radiator hose to swell up so much?

thanks for all who reply...much appreciated..
Lee
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Old 12-18-05, 01:25 AM   #911 (permalink)
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The heater core is the highest part of the system. So when air gets in the system and some coolant overflows into the resivoir tank the result is no heat. The heater core is not getting enough coolant due to the air in the system. There is nothing wrong with the heater core.

Large amount of air in cooling system
If a large amount of air is introduced into the cooling system you will notice several things.
1) No heat- temp selector on hot but blowing cold air from the vents.
The heater core is full of air not hot coolant.
2) Temp gauge fluxing- The temp gauge will creep up close to hot then quickly drop back down, but not all the way back down to the normal position, but just above it.

You pull over and open the hood, you notice

3) The cooling fans are not operating but the temp needle is on hot. Most people at this point wrongly assume that the fans are causing all these problems. You cannot troubleshoot the fan system until there is no air in the cooling system. If it only overheats when stopped it may be a fan problem, if it overheats when the car is driving at normal speed it is not likely to be a fan problem.
4) The upper radiator hose is hot and swollen; the lower radiator hose is abnormally cool.

Why?
This large amount of air becomes trapped around the thermostat causing it to close, restricting the flow of coolant (this causes the hot upper hose, cool lower hose). The thermostat only works correctly when hot coolant contacts it directly. Hot air will not open it.
The fans are not working because the coolant temp sensor is also in trapped air. It is mounted close to the lower radiator hose outlet in the radiator. Cool lower hose-temp sensor cool = no fan command on.

Why the flux?
When you increase the engine rpm’s enough (+/- 3500) the water pump will eventually overcome this trapped air, pushing hot coolant to the thermostat causing it to open. The temp needle drops, the heat comes back and fans come on, but only for a short time because the cycle will repeat itself quickly.
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Old 12-19-05, 01:08 PM   #912 (permalink)
 
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But could the head gasket be causing my main radioator hose to SWELL so much ?, i mean to the point where it seems liek its gonna BURST...

There is lots , lots of pressure, and the antifreeze IS NOT FLOWING.

It's trapped... and only when I accelerate to 6k RPM does it GUSH through

Please let me know what it could be? Heater Core? Water Pump?
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Old 12-19-05, 01:48 PM   #913 (permalink)
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Your radiator cap should release the pressure at 16psi(+/-). If it's not working properly something will burst, radiator, hose, ect... Is it overflowing into the resivoir?
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Last edited by Jetdoc; 12-19-05 at 05:36 PM.
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Old 12-19-05, 03:15 PM   #914 (permalink)
 
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no , not overflowing into radiator...i just bought a new radiator cap, rated at 16psi
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Old 12-19-05, 05:40 PM   #915 (permalink)
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Thats probably why the upper hose was getting so tight. Too much pressure. I've read where many people have had the top of there radiator blow off.
You may still have the overheating problem. Coolant will overflow into the resivoir if you do.
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