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Old 08-20-06, 05:08 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Recommended Speakers for G2

Pretty much what the title asks.

If memory serves me right the stock Bose speakers are 2 ohm, where all of the aftermarket shit is 4..
Does this make a difference? I suck ass at audio .. please help.

thanks

rob
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Old 08-20-06, 04:17 PM   #2 (permalink)
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umm ..well here are the plans:

Ideally 7" touch screen
Amp
Small Sub
New speaks

but what i can afford

A dec deck
speaks


and the rest later ..
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Old 08-21-06, 07:14 AM   #3 (permalink)
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budget?
Componets or coaxials?

i'm not too familiar with the bose system, but if you're changing the deck, and using the onboard amp, 4 ohm speakers will work with the headunit's amp, until you can afford another amp.

as far as budget components, i've heard the alpine type-x's are great bang for the buck (as much as I hate supporting alpine). Ring radiator tweeter. Good off-axis response. Bi-amp capable crossovers (for some reason?). not bad for 200-250 or even cheaper if you can find some used.
I've also heard good things about CDT component sets. I remember you can find the EF-61's or the CL-61's for under 200. I think the CL-61a's go for like $150 and are supposed to be great for the money but i haven't looked at CDT stuff in a LONG time.

I say spend a significant portion of your budget on the fronts. I took out my rears today, and lets just say that I don't miss them.
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Old 08-21-06, 08:46 AM   #4 (permalink)
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My advise is to find a head unit that you like... appearance will matter as you're going to be looking at the damn thing in your car for a while. In the FAQ there's a great guide to who builds crap and who builds great stuff. My preference is Alpine for my head unit.

Then go to your nearest sound store and listen to everything. Go with a friend. Stand (or sit) in the sound room with your eyes closed and have your buddy cycle through the different speakers. Pick the ones you like. Ignore brands. Don't listen to anything outside of your budget (odds are it'll be what you like best).

Budgetting more money for fronts isn't a bad idea.

If you're running the bose premium then yes, you are using 2ohm now and you'll have to swap the head unit in order to use 4ohm aftermarket gear (there are work arounds but I wouldn't recommend them unless you're particularly stuck on the appearance of the stock unit, etc).

A good sound shop will help you through this work (happily, but not without trying to sell as much as possible).

Good luck!
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Old 08-21-06, 05:24 PM   #5 (permalink)
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my advice is to find a head unit that actually has good specs...

appearance wise is going to nothing for the onboard d/a converter

you can have the flashiest head unit around but if it doesnt have the internal processing power... yeah

plus having it flash 10,000 different colors is just going to distract you from driving

also keep in mind that listening to stereo inside a car and on the display board is two different things...

first off... installation isnt going to be the same... two different enviroments.

second of all... its not tuned... and i doubt you're going to tune each speaker

when it comes to speakers... installation is very important so just keep that in mind

btw my suggestion is the Eclipse CD5000 or almost any of their top of the line models.

3 pair of 8V pre-outs @ 55ohms and a 24bit DAC FTMFW!
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Old 08-21-06, 09:57 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bl420

btw my suggestion is the Eclipse CD5000 or almost any of their top of the line models.

--3 pair of 8V pre-outs @ 55ohms and a 24bit DAC FTMFW!
true that...but he can just get a "regularly" priced head unit (around $199) and just strap it up to a line driver...for example PG's tld22/66 converts what you give it and bolts it upto 8volts signals to be fed for your amp...you can even take a low cass/cd HU with an average pre-amp output of 1.8 and convert it like that...the the heat issue with the 55 ohm is a really nice feature too, but your regular /////PINE's (with ~100, i believe) will do aiight cause the 55 is a really cool operating HU!!! big props to Toyota for that!!!

--bl420, please don't take this as me opposing what you're saying....the CD5000 is a very good choice and if an authorized dealer does the work, you can get F-Ten's 3 yr warr plus their security CD called the ESN (Eclipse Security Network) that will prevent any "smart" thief from thinking about jacking it....

PS - the info i'm giving are about ~2yrs old and i'm hoping FT didn't change their info....
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Old 08-23-06, 04:35 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Thanks for all the opinions and help I appreciate it. I am illiterate when it comes to car audio, I am more knowledgable to the home theatre side ...
I just need something to get me by until I shrink some debts, and then i can start throwin some money into the audio...
I think it would be great fun to do complete rewiring, ripping out the old bose amp, old speakers, new speaker grilles, headunit and all that crap into one BIG ASS sitting. And i think it will be fun, because I barely know how to do that .. but since thats a year or two down the road .. its not that big of a deal ... sooo yea .. i think to get me by right now spending about 300-400~ for everything sounds quite nice .... should i just do the old 'new alpine cd changer' .. or just get a deck .. with XM radio or some sweet shit like that (and no bobby c flashy light kit thing, fucking blinking leds everywhere) ... and as for speakers .... I dont know .. still gotta do some research ... would appreciate some more help .. thanks

rob
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Old 08-24-06, 12:00 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreekPower
well since your going to replace it all.

For the fronts I say get MB quart supreme or premium component setup. And the rear you can get also same kit just in the rear and for that size. Then a alpine headunit with or without tv. Also the new alpine amps with 125x4 amps to power all of those speakers. And depending how much bass you want will vary which sub/sub amp/wiring you will need. Personally I say just run a 0/1 gauge wire from the battery to the rear just because its nice to know you have that power 'on tap'

But for subwoofer/amps personally im a fan of JL and RE (currently in my legend). But again this all varies how much bass u want if any. hope some of this helps.

also i just woke up so if its spelling errors or anything sorry im typing with my eyes closed

thanks for the opinions and suggestions greek

and ive heard good things in reviews about MB quart .. but a few questions ...

what are the important things to look for in speakers ...
ie ... wattage (RMS) .. freq. resp. ... sensitivity ...

thanks . .
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Old 08-24-06, 01:55 AM   #9 (permalink)
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sounds condtradictory...

"things to look for in a speaker"

anyhow... sensitivity ratings mean how loud the speaker gets with how much wattage at what distance... industry standard being 1W/1M

i dont care too much about those ratings.

wattage RMS is the normal wattage your speaker will handle on a daily basis... considering you set your gains correctly also

frequency response is basically the speakers capabilities of what frequencies it will be able to reproduce..

one speaker cant reproduce the whole spectrum..

so thats why there are multiple speakers in an audio setup..

tweeters, midrange, midbass, and subwoofer to cover the whole spectrum

if you're going for coaxials then get something that will play at least 80Hz - 100Hz and up to 20KHz
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Old 08-24-06, 04:36 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I find statistics for a speaker will rarely tell you anything. if anything the t/s parameters of each driver might help you determine how to set up your speakers, but really won't tell you which one is better than the other.

for example, here's that stats from two different component sets:
-Power Handling: 160W
-Max. Transient Power Handling: 1000W
-Sensitivity (2.83V/1M): 89dB
-Frequency Response: 30-25000Hz

-Power Handling: 200 Watts RMS
-Power Handling: 400 Watts Peak
-Frequency Response: 30Hz - 25kHz
-Sensitivity: 91dB

one of these are the morel supremos, and the other is some cheap ass audiobahn. And really i wouldn't be able to tell you which is which, if i didn't look it up (and if one didn't have some fancy words stuck in there ).

Go listen to speakers yourself if you're very picky. It's really the only way to go. If you can, listen to a true SQ competition vehicle, so you know what you should be shooting for. Most people, (myself included), might think something sounds good, but really have no clue as to how a car should sound. Also, everyone's taste is different, especially when you get to the ultra high end equipment. but honestly, If you're just looking for something that will sound better than stock, and you're not an "audiophile", i don't think you can go wrong with any decent set of components, and more than likely most of them will sound pretty much the same.

i'll just throw my recommendations for a "budget" speaker/amp combo out there (without going DIY).
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=1090
http://www.overstock.com/cgi-bin/d2....ROD_ID=1977918
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Old 08-24-06, 10:42 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Is there anything wrong with the factory speakers that is prompting your question?
If so, since you want to wait to fully upgrade I would recommend looking for a cheap pair of used factory speakers (woofers- the tweets won't be the problem) or having them rebuilt for sixty or so bucks until you are ready to do a complete changeover.
If you are simply looking to upgrade it would be best to change everything out when you are ready to do so.
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Old 08-26-06, 05:49 AM   #12 (permalink)
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thanks for the help guys. And does it make a difference in the number of components in the speaker (im not sure if im sounding like an idiot, if i am, then fuck) ie

a 4-way from sony goin for 99 http://www.bestbuy.ca/catalog/prodde...08&catid=20116

and a 2-way from JBL for 299
http://www.bestbuy.ca/catalog/prodde...16&catid=20116

and assuming the old rule "you get what you pay for" the JBL should be better....
or is this one of those things like wine where a certain brand (or in wine, year and grape) is just the bomb... if that makes sense .. i also heard that Phoenix makes some good speakers..

But as of right im partially sold on MB Quart brand name

I feel like the retarded kid in grade 4 who always has his hand up ... shit

thanks in advance ..
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Old 08-26-06, 12:26 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Here is a coaxial set that will outperform the Sony for the same cost...
http://cgi.ebay.com/CDT-Audio-Classi...QQcmdZViewItem

And this Braxial set for the price of the JBLs....
http://cgi.ebay.com/CDT-Audio-CLassi...QQcmdZViewItem

The readily available three and four way axial sets are sonically inferior. "More is better" does not apply in this case.

Again, these are 4 ohm sets, and while they will operate with the factory HU and amp, they won't sound like they should. There have been some 2 ohm coaxial and component sets made in the past such as in the Soundstream SPL line but they are difficult to come across nowadays.
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Old 09-01-06, 03:50 PM   #14 (permalink)
 
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Not that you need 2 ohm speakers if you are changing the HU and bypassing the amp, but my infinity kappas in my civic are 2 ohm. Pretty sure all kappas are right now. But I could be wrong.
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Old 09-01-06, 10:27 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rmon
......and ive heard good things in reviews about MB quart ..
I should have caught this earlier...
MB Quart built a solid reputation over the years, but Germany's economic climate (and it's rules, including GmbH- their version of corporate structure) caused their downfall a while ago. They sold to Rockford Fosgate, at which point the higher end equipment stayed in production in Germany, while the lower lines were all shifted to offshore manufacturing (China and Korea). There is debate whether the German produced equipment declined at this point or not, but the mass produced stuff wasn't good.
RF couldn't make the company viable, and it was sold to Maxxsonics, the chief buyout whore of the car audio industry (Directed and Epsilon are runners-up, but not nearly as bad).
You are well advised to steer clear of anything produced in the past 18 mos.

It's really too bad- I have one of the old days QSD 216 component sets that is quite excellent, and I wish I hadn't sold off my 2nd set. Super accurate, but the titanium tweets aren't for everybody.

Most Infinity Kappa sets are 4 ohm nominal. That's the first time I've heard of a 2 ohm set.
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