Blower motor (housing) removal

[Kasteman]

I have given DIY instruction about this to 2 or 3 people on this forum, and they have found it useful. So here it is:

These instructions apply to G2 models, although there may be subtle differences between a '91 and a '95, coupe, sedan, trim level etc. From my '91 LS sedan:

1. Remove glovebox:
i.) pull down the cloth trim at the top inside the glove (pull on it, it's just clipped in, but be careful not to rip.)
ii.) Remove the lower trim panel at the top of the footwell (flathead plastic trim fasteners, 3 of them, then pull out panel out and down, disconnect courtesy light harness)
iii.) Remove the 4 glove hinge bolts at the bottom of the glovebox.
iv.) Behind where the cloth trim was, disconnect the string leading to the slow-letdown shock (I think comes apart at a plastic piece near the shock)
Once you have the glove off, take apart the glovebox frame.
2. take off the trim panel on the right side of the dash (the vertical part that matches up with the door, pull on it, just clips)
3. take off the two inside panels on the glovebox frame.
4. Remove the 8 zillion screws and bolts on the glovebox frame, including the U-shaped latch. Remove frame. (it takes a little effort)
5. disconnect all wiring harnesses leading to and around white plastic blower housing, including the two big harnesses at the bottom right of the footwell. Its good to label them. (about 5 or 6 harnesses total)
6. Remove carpet-covered kick panel on the right side of the footwell, peel back the carpeting on the floor, enough to allow the housing to come out.
7. Remove the mounting bolts holding the housing to the firewall and dash. (about 5 or 6)
8. Remove housing. (this takes some effort too)
9. Once you have the housing out, motor removal is pretty obvious.
I highly recommend a carefully operated power drill (w/ a long philips bit) to perform most of the work.
I'll elaborate further on anything if anyone needs it.
Kasteman

[Kasteman]

The ticking is probably caused by something like a leaf or small twig hitting the blower wheel(s), OR (this is highly unlikely) the wheels are out of alignment somehow. Unfortunately the only way to get that out is to remove the whole housing.
Take it apart, and if you don't visibly see anything, spin the wheel by hand and see if you get a noise from either the wheels or the motor itself. You may have to hook up the blower motor and wheels when they're outside of the housing, as some noises can't be heard until the motor spins at speed. But I doubt it's anything with the motor or wheels. The process will take about 3 hours if it's the first time doing it, so it's not an easy job. But I can guarantee you will see lots of dust and grime built up in the housing, so if you can't find the problem, clean it and you'll breathe easier at least. I couldn't believe how dirty mine was until I got it out. Hope this helps, reply to this thread if you have more questions.
kasteman

[CBRKid20]

Thanks for the advice dude, I guess I'm putting this off until spring break (the first week of march) when I have a heated garage to use and tools.

I know I'll be replying to this at that time with questions. Thanks again!

[enigma]

Kasteman, check your email. is everything all right?
(btw, your inbox is full).

[eric]

I came upon your post and wanted to know if you fixed your heater problem. I have the same problem and wanted to know if you order on of those heater motors to fix you problem.
Thanks in advance

[CakeDaddy]

Originally posted by Kasteman
The ticking is probably caused by something like a leaf or small twig hitting the blower wheel(s),

yep, I pulled my glove box & lower panel off and discoved leaves in the motor and it was making a horrible sound when i turned the A/C. I was happy to see that it was only a leaf.

[ZiGGie]

please be very careful when ur plugging back the wires... dont get the truck lock and the heater module switch. I found out the bad way and I have to pay the price...

[enigma]

Originally posted by ZiGGie
please be very careful when ur plugging back the wires... dont get the truck lock and the heater module switch. I found out the bad way and I have to pay the price...

what did you do?

[fbrown3]

Originally posted by ZiGGie
please be very careful when ur plugging back the wires... dont get the truck lock and the heater module switch. I found out the bad way and I have to pay the price...

I think that I may have done that very thing.
Can you tell me what it may have caused to happen to the heater control.
thanks
fred

[acuralegend94]

hey... i was doing a post that showed how to remove the air cabin filter... and i was doing everything fine.. and then when i plugged in the trunk cable and another switch.. i'm guessing the heater one? now my ac doesn't work ne more... it just blows hot air... i tried switching it back but it does the same thing... can somebody help? did i blow a fuse?

[fbrown3]

Hey legend 94,
no you haven't blown a fuse. You have blown your ac/heater control panel. It is located just above your radio. My fix was to go to a junk yard and get another one. I think it might have been somewhere around $75(Atl GA). Seems like rather poor engineering to put two plugs beside each other same size etc that could cause this much of a problem when they are reversed.
Oh well live and learn.
Hope this helps
fred

[acuralegend94]

a sh*T are you serious....???? cuz like i got it checked and they said my a/c compressor wasn't working or something... how could it just blow....?

[robbanks111]

Kasteman you might want to add labeling those 2 wires as a todo on removal.

[acuralegend94]

is there any other way of fixing it besides replacing the control panel?

[JTJohnny102]

would it be the motor or the controls if the only way for me to turn on the fan is to turn it on full or the higest setting? non auto climate controls