sorry... i'm a noob... why is this good?

 

If your car has trouble idling, stalling on hot starts, this could be your problem.

The passage gets clogged with carbon over time, and thus does not allow air to flow while idling, creating the stalling. Cleaning will solve the problem, in most cases.

 

After spraying, I used lots of Q-tips dipped in TB cleaner to clean both the IAC as well as the holes in the intake manifold. While I'm not sure how effective the q-tips were but it was kind of theraputic
-g

 

can we move this to the DIY section

 

Sure I can

 

Thanx Mike! Glad to have ya back here with us

 

great DIY :thumbsup: definitely doin this.. i need it

 

So chances are if the RPMs on my car sometimes bounce up and down and drop randomly and sometimes stalls then most likely a Throttle body cleaning is all i need?

 

So chances are if the RPMs on my car sometimes bounce up and down and drop randomly and sometimes stalls then most likely a Throttle body cleaning is all i need?

Your white coupe still has a Type 1 ecu, that may be affecting things as well. My idle was a little funny with my AC on occasionally, when I finally got a Type 2 ecu I had no more problems.

 

So how expensive is it to get a type II ECU and have it put in?

 

Yo Henry (Dinero19) this one is for you! Nice write up too!

 

So how expensive is it to get a type II ECU and have it put in?

you should talk with telion he should be able to help you out.

 

man these bolts are a pain in the ass... especially not removing the MLS bar

 

I'm gonna try this tomorrow morning, my idle is too high right now. I'm afraid to say.... it's 1700rpm. I have to check the vacuum system too.

 

I was reading the DIY on the Blown Head Gasket replacement because my car was idling weird, like 100 RPM to 1000 RPM, but it was random. what made me thing it was the HG was that other cars in the BHG were doing the same thing, but I'm def going to try this one first. . .

 

I am have tried this procedure and I am not able to remove the upper screw. I am attempting to use a 12mm socket (3/8 drive) but it seems to be too long. Is there a simple trick or procedure I have missed? Has anyone had to remove the coolant lines?

 

you don't have to remove them just work around them. also, thanks for the write up! it gives me an excuse to play with my Legend yay!

 

alright, I'll give it another shot.. thanx

 

alright, I got it off... I actually had to attach a 2" extension to the 12mm (3/8 drive) bit.. almost time to put everything back together and see if I notice a difference...

 

So from what I can see on the stickers under the hood the idle should be between 500-600 rpm and when I look at my tach that area at the bottom is where the needle needs be for correct idle? Brilliant idea Honda.

 

OK, so occationally on startups my car would rev from 600 - 1500 rpm. It would also try to stall out if I reved it up to 3k+ rpms and let off the gas. So, I cleaned my IAC today and guess what... I found a ton of carbon build up, expecially on the IAC screen. Now, the car idols perfectly, right at 600 rpm. :woot:

Also, I found it very difficult to get off the upper IAC bolt. So, I simply took off the upper piece (is labled "up" in the above picture) and also unscrewed the black plastic piece right where the valve cover was. This made the bolts much easier to access.

 

is this for a G1 or a G2?

 

Gen 2

 

Cannot find the upper bolt, help!!!

Thanks a lot for providing the detailed instructions to clean IACV.

I am trying to clean the IACV for my 1994 Acura Legend L-Model 4-door V6 engine car, since it has idling problems. I am completely new to DIY and hoping that I will be able to successful.

Questions:
1. In Step 3 you say, "Remove Clip from IAC, there is also another Clip shown that needs to be removed. Completely set these aside out of the way.", but what is the other clip you are referring to here? There is an electronic clip right on top of the black plastic portion of IAC and I have removed that already. What is the other clip you are referring to here? It will be great if you can mark the other clip in one of my images below.
2. I am assuming based on your explanation that the IACV is the one marked in red in this image. Is that correct? Is the black plastic portion in the image the complete IACV valve, or is there a metal extension to the valve?
3. I have removed the lower bolt from the IACV valve (marked in blue) as shown in this image. Where is the upper bolt location? Is it the one marked in red in the image ?

Thanks a lot!

 

Oh yes, Knucks3man, I've been looking for this diy for weeks since I am having idling problems. In the morning, I start up the car, as it warms up it starts to jump up and down, so the idle becomes erratic. It sounds like a washing machine. LOL Anyway, I also find myself filling the radiator with antifreeze every three days it seem that the coolant is being evaporated because of this problem.
I am glad I found this diy and will definitely clean out the IAC. So throttle body cleaner not carb cleaner ok got it. Will do.

 

Emission Test: NOx is still too high

Hey Guys,

My car failed emission again. The NOx is still too high, even after all I've replaced.

I've replaced all spark plugs, air filter, engine oil
I've cleaned the EGR valve and tube
I've foamed the intakes

Still, both NOx and HC are high. The NOx shows 1334 and the HC 117.

I don't know what else to do now. Please help me, anyone. Thanks

 

Hey Guys,

My car failed emission again. The NOx is still too high, even after all I've replaced.

I've replaced all spark plugs, air filter, engine oil
I've cleaned the EGR valve and tube
I've foamed the intakes

Still, both NOx and HC are high. The NOx shows 1334 and the HC 117.

I don't know what else to do now. Please help me, anyone. Thanks

sounds like you might need new oxygen sensors.

 

joubit -

This could also be a number of things. Did you also swap Plug wires? The High NOX rating is caused from unburned, or liquid fuel in your exhaust. It could also be your ignition not firing right in one of the cylinders.