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Let us get a few things straight.......

A limited slip is always a "true" limited slip. Limited slip, get it?

If you consider a "true" limited slip to be a gear style, then you are not necessarily talking about a limited slip if the gears don't slip when bound. I heard that many of the Quaife units do just that. That means that under a slip situation, On-throttle understeer is a real problem. That means feathering the throttle and lower corner exit speeds. It also means that since the LSD diff is heavier, there is more rotational mass and that means lower speed.

We use your internal gears and your original diff to make the unit, but add the proper stuff to make it work. Yes, we do add weight. However, it is grams/ounces not pounds!

The way in which our unit works is only under acceleration is the unit activated. Yes, it will work both for right and left tires (2 way) since if you spin the right tire the left tire wants to go in reverse and vice-versa. The unit reacts harder under acceleration and not deceleration, but it does work slightly. That means that off-throttle understeer will not happen. I know, I have many of these units and it has never caused my FWD cars to have th efront wheels slide through a turn. If it did that, I would trash it and try to find a better way. If fact, I get off-throttle oversteer (even in the Legend - talk to people at the BMW school at VIR!), meaning that the diff is working correctly and allowing the wheels and tires to do a great job of sticking.

Prices:
$600 plus shipping back to you. All I need is the Diff, not the whole housing (talk to Imran, LEgEnD4LiFe about how expensive the shipping is on the whole thing!)
I have a core (Thanks Kenso!) and I can get one out very fast right now if someone needs one.

Remember, if you guys have any problems with this, send it back and we will make it right. We build to your specs on your car. You want street, we will build one like Kenso and I have in our cars. If you want a Drag monster, we will build you one like Imran.

Thanks to Kenso and LEgEnD4LiFe!
Call 828.291.1309 if you have more questions.
 
Discussion starter · #384 ·
Ive decided to use the 5spd stock flywheel with spec stage 3 clutch. The CT CL-S lightweight flywheel would fit but, it doesnt come with a pressure plate so that's an extra expense. All together your looking at spending $1400 for 12lbs less rotational mass compared to the 5spd flywheel(22lbs) and 28 lbs off a 6spd flywheel(38lbs). Last thing is the length of the CT CL-S flywheel with the CL-S pressure plate attached. Will the pilot bearing be at enough distance for the clutch to engage and disengage. At this point i give it an 80% chance it will work since both 6spd and 5spd flywheels are interchangable and the 6spd is more than an inch longer, meaning the pilot bearing must be shorter. If anyones got that sort of money i encourage you to use the CT CL-S Flywheel but know that you have a 20% chance that it may not really fit in the end.

~TRu Hybrid
 
can you just have the type I milled to reduce weight???? A 16 lb drop from type II to type I is a large drop, and i think that a 9 lb is too light. Seems to me that most of the smaller import guys have had best success with ~12, and usually ~14-18 for a domestic. I think that we should aim for ~15.
So milling a type I seems like the best option to me. Doesnt matter to me anyway, i drive an auto, and have no plans of swapping any time soon. Might like a torque convertor though. Christian, does the shop you got your convertor from have a number or web page???? Thanks
 
Yeah they're called Level 10 http://www.levelten.com/ . I have a spare torque converter if you want a core.

What were the differences between the NSX flywheel and ours? Sounds like the CL-S flywheel could definitely be made to work, seems like a good idea if someone has that kind of money and wants to spend it on a simple mod. I just lightened a 5 spd flywheel.
 
Discussion starter · #388 ·
hondaman23 said:
A limited slip is always a "true" limited slip. Limited slip, get it?

If you consider a "true" limited slip to be a gear style, then you are not necessarily talking about a limited slip if the gears don't slip when bound. I heard that many of the Quaife units do just that. That means that under a slip situation, On-throttle understeer is a real problem. That means feathering the throttle and lower corner exit speeds. It also means that since the LSD diff is heavier, there is more rotational mass and that means lower speed.

We use your internal gears and your original diff to make the unit, but add the proper stuff to make it work. Yes, we do add weight. However, it is grams/ounces not pounds!

The way in which our unit works is only under acceleration is the unit activated. Yes, it will work both for right and left tires (2 way) since if you spin the right tire the left tire wants to go in reverse and vice-versa. The unit reacts harder under acceleration and not deceleration, but it does work slightly. That means that off-throttle understeer will not happen. I know, I have many of these units and it has never caused my FWD cars to have th efront wheels slide through a turn. If it did that, I would trash it and try to find a better way. If fact, I get off-throttle oversteer (even in the Legend - talk to people at the BMW school at VIR!), meaning that the diff is working correctly and allowing the wheels and tires to do a great job of sticking.

Prices:
$600 plus shipping back to you. All I need is the Diff, not the whole housing (talk to Imran, LEgEnD4LiFe about how expensive the shipping is on the whole thing!)
I have a core (Thanks Kenso!) and I can get one out very fast right now if someone needs one.

Remember, if you guys have any problems with this, send it back and we will make it right. We build to your specs on your car. You want street, we will build one like Kenso and I have in our cars. If you want a Drag monster, we will build you one like Imran.

Thanks to Kenso and LEgEnD4LiFe!
Call 828.291.1309 if you have more questions.
Any ideas as to why our diff carriers are aluminum for auto and Cast iron for manuals?

~TRu Hybrid
 
Discussion starter · #389 ·
tnelson said:
can you just have the type I milled to reduce weight???? A 16 lb drop from type II to type I is a large drop, and i think that a 9 lb is too light. Seems to me that most of the smaller import guys have had best success with ~12, and usually ~14-18 for a domestic. I think that we should aim for ~15.
So milling a type I seems like the best option to me. Doesnt matter to me anyway, i drive an auto, and have no plans of swapping any time soon. Might like a torque convertor though. Christian, does the shop you got your convertor from have a number or web page???? Thanks
Finally some responses.

In all the writeups i went through on the CL-s forums etc. they all have good things to say. I only found one bad experience. I also would much rather have a 12-15 lbs flywheel. 10 lbs seems to light especially if you misshift.
TQ converter is level 10.

LEgEnD4LiFe said:
Yeah they're called Level 10 http://www.levelten.com/ . I have a spare torque converter if you want a core.

What were the differences between the NSX flywheel and ours? Sounds like the CL-S flywheel could definitely be made to work, seems like a good idea if someone has that kind of money and wants to spend it on a simple mod. I just lightened a 5 spd flywheel.
NSX flywheels contact surface area is not the same or even close. Whats the 5spd flywheel weight now?

~TRu Hybrid
 
DV8,

did you ever consider taking the piston ouf of your 3.2 and installing them in the 3.5? Id imagine you would end up with something in the range of 11:1 CR. The motor would love that. The only problem I see is that Honda made the 3.5L at something like 9.6:1 requiring 92 octane...no room for higher compression with 91 octane these days huh? oh well...
 
3g Legend said:
DV8,

did you ever consider taking the piston ouf of your 3.2 and installing them in the 3.5? Id imagine you would end up with something in the range of 11:1 CR. The motor would love that. The only problem I see is that Honda made the 3.5L at something like 9.6:1 requiring 92 octane...no room for higher compression with 91 octane these days huh? oh well...
The pistons on a 3.2 and 3.5 are the same compression ratio, as well as height. the difference is the rod length. So changing the pistons wont change the compression ratio. And 9.6 does not require 92 octane, only 91, and unless you bumped the compression to well over 10, or ran a LARGE amount of boost, you are fine with 91. Its all about how much timing advance/retard you run. Where do we dig up these idiots.
 
tnelson said:
The pistons on a 3.2 and 3.5 are the same compression ratio, as well as height. the difference is the rod length. So changing the pistons wont change the compression ratio. And 9.6 does not require 92 octane, only 91, and unless you bumped the compression to well over 10, or ran a LARGE amount of boost, you are fine with 91. Its all about how much timing advance/retard you run. Where do we dig up these idiots.
correct me if I am wrong but a 3.5L is a stroked 3.2L. Increasing stroke most definitely increases your compression ratio. If you are denying this, please go learn it because its true.

I am not trying to be a dick, so please dont take this the wrong way. From what I read the piston diameters are the same so this should most definitely work!

btw, the RL came out when 92 octane was at the pumps, not 91...I guess in Arizona there is still 93 octane because it gets so freakin hot...anyway besides the point.

the point: increasing stroke increases compression. so if you ditched the RL pistons for the type II pistons...you get more compression.

also, have you guys compared the combustion chamber volumes in a type I type II and an RL head? I am curious what those numbers are. I am willing to guess that DV8 gained some CR going from the RL heads to the type II heads on the C35.

:D
 
I take that back,

bore x stroke:

3.2L = 90x84mm (Legend)
3.5L = 89x93mm (RL)

You would have to bore out the C35 block to fit the C32 pistons...

your new displacement becomes 3548cc with who knows what CR, but it way better than 9.6 :p
 
Discussion starter · #395 ·
3g Legend said:
I take that back,

bore x stroke:

3.2L = 90x84mm (Legend)
3.5L = 89x93mm (RL)

You would have to bore out the C35 block to fit the C32 pistons...

your new displacement becomes 3548cc with who knows what CR, but it way better than 9.6 :p
Belive it or not the CR is close to the same if not lower on the RL its still under 10. I did all the research on it back in the day. As you already know the bore is the same with a longer stroke. the pistons were almost identical.

What people have been pondering is to swap crank and/or rods between blocks so they dont have to mod the block the whay i had to to make everything fit. i never looked into it. However i dont quite understand how it could work since the deck height of the RL block is taller than the Legend. obviously for the longer stroke.

~TRu Hybrid
 
3g Legend said:
correct me if I am wrong but a 3.5L is a stroked 3.2L. Increasing stroke most definitely increases your compression ratio. If you are denying this, please go learn it because its true.

I am not trying to be a dick, so please dont take this the wrong way. From what I read the piston diameters are the same so this should most definitely work!

btw, the RL came out when 92 octane was at the pumps, not 91...I guess in Arizona there is still 93 octane because it gets so freakin hot...anyway besides the point.

the point: increasing stroke increases compression. so if you ditched the RL pistons for the type II pistons...you get more compression.

also, have you guys compared the combustion chamber volumes in a type I type II and an RL head? I am curious what those numbers are. I am willing to guess that DV8 gained some CR going from the RL heads to the type II heads on the C35.

:D
Buddy, you might want to do some research before you blow anymore bull out of your ass. Chamber size is roughly the same, the compression ratio is very similar, and is dictated more by the shape of the piston(again, very similar) than it is by the length of the stroke. And running a higher octane would have less to do with heat and more to do with altitute/density of the air. You seriously need to learn some stuff before you go telling us all that we are wrong.

You sound like somebody who has picked up alot of this in physics class. Racing engines in many ways seem to defy the laws of physics(where is the crank when the piston is at TDC?)
In this case its not worth the time and money it would take to try and shove type II pistons into an RL. There are things that are worth modding, and there are things that should be left alone. Go work on cams or an ECU, that will actually be worth your time.
 
tnelson said:
Buddy, you might want to do some research before you blow anymore bull out of your ass. Chamber size is roughly the same, the compression ratio is very similar, and is dictated more by the shape of the piston(again, very similar) than it is by the length of the stroke. And running a higher octane would have less to do with heat and more to do with altitute/density of the air. You seriously need to learn some stuff before you go telling us all that we are wrong.

You sound like somebody who has picked up alot of this in physics class. Racing engines in many ways seem to defy the laws of physics(where is the crank when the piston is at TDC?)
In this case its not worth the time and money it would take to try and shove type II pistons into an RL. There are things that are worth modding, and there are things that should be left alone. Go work on cams or an ECU, that will actually be worth your time.
You guys are obviously ignorant in the engine building department. Youre definitely barking up the wrong tree. I have built plenty of race engines for my racecars. I know what I am talking about, and its not just because I have a BSME, I have practical experience. Please keep speaking from ignorance for my sake. I dont care if you have a million posts more than I do, its what you know, not how many times you post. Now that I made your blood boil, read on...

Back to my RL block and crank with Type II pistons: You must be a retard if you think that just because two motors of nearly the same bore (89 vs 90 is not the same-if you knew, boring a motor 1mm will give you about .2 compression ratio points, so we are already up to 9.8:1) but completely different stroke (84 vs 93) has the same shape piston that will create the same CR when swapped into the other block. In fact, this is an embarrassment to me to try to explain this to you. You obviously have no practical experience because it would show.

IF YOU STROKE A MOTOR LEAVING EVERYTHING ELSE THE SAME, YOU WILL IN TURN INCREASE COMPRESSION. ITS JUST OBVIOUS BECAUSE THE PISTON DROPS FURTHER AWAY AT BOTTOM DEAD CENTER. Compression ratio is the cyliner volume at bottom dead center divided by the cylinder volume at top dead center. So for example, you want to take a 3.2L block, ditch the crank and rods with a crank that is 93mm vs the stock 84mm stroke, but keep the same stock pistons, you will have increased the CR approximately 1 point bringing it to 10.6:1.

Go talk to an engine builder before you keep posting and make yourself look like an even bigger fool. I dont feel like busting out equations here because we are arguing about obvious things here like the difference between two different colors like the red of your face vs the yellow on DV8's Legend.
 
calling all people that dont know anything but post like they know it all...

"the compression ratio is very similar, and is dictated more by the shape of the piston(again, very similar) than it is by the length of the stroke."


you are the most ignorant person on the internet tnelson. CR has everything to do with bore size and stroke, stroke being the biggest factor, followed by bore, then piston dome shape then combustion chamber volume.
 
3g Legend said:
calling all people that dont know anything but post like they know it all...

"the compression ratio is very similar, and is dictated more by the shape of the piston(again, very similar) than it is by the length of the stroke."

you are the most ignorant person on the internet tnelson. CR has everything to do with bore size and stroke, stroke being the biggest factor, followed by bore, then piston dome shape then combustion chamber volume.
Its not stroke, its volume of the cylinder as compared to the size of the combustion chamber, stroke plays a part in that, but in this case, there is a very small displacement change, (.05 L / cyl). Now, you can do all the equations you want, and i know them too ;) Dont think you are the only one here who has worked on race cars. Lets be practical. You increase the compression in this engine(very minimally), and it will yeild no results. You will have to bore the block to put in 3.2 pistons(which are cast, not forged). So you are spending the money to tear it down, bore it, and still have weak internals for a small bump in compression, which, as i will explain, gives you no horsepower.

Then you have increased the compression, and still have a VERY weak cam, with terrible timing. The ecu will feel a bit of detonation and if you are only running 91 gas, it will retard the timing. So there goes any power you would have gained by increasing the compression, and have now made it where you have to run race gas. So it costs you the money to build it, the money to put better gas in it, and it is still not any faster. There goes a couple thousand dollars, with no power increases, and no extra strength in the internals. Real smart. Go do your equations, in this case it will get you nowhere. Have a look at what you are dealing with, this isnt a chevy 350.

The best way to go about this, is going and having a set of FORGED pistons made for your engine. If you want an RL motor to start with, use and RL piston, and if you want higher compression, have them change the shape of the top of the piston to create it. Then if you want to bore it, do it and have the pistons cut to fit. But right now, we have plenty of room to get power without ever touching the bottom end. Here are better ideas to focus on.
1. Cams
2. Intake manifold(including VIS and EGR elimination)
3. ECU, to make all of it effective.
4. Forced induction.
5. Internals.

You are starting with 5 and working backwards, and right now, it will do you no good.
 
3g Legend said:
calling all people that dont know anything but post like they know it all...

"the compression ratio is very similar, and is dictated more by the shape of the piston(again, very similar) than it is by the length of the stroke."

you are the most ignorant person on the internet tnelson. CR has everything to do with bore size and stroke, stroke being the biggest factor, followed by bore, then piston dome shape then combustion chamber volume.
Look buddy. Stroke will change it, but there are more factors involved than just stroke, and i am trying to get you to look at the big picture. There is not a massive displacement change, and bore and stroke both change. I not telling you that you cannot change the compression that way, i am telling you its not worth your time and money. Go ahead and post what you want. All of us who have actually worked on a legend will tell you that it wont do anything worth talking about.
 
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