Acura Legend Forum banner

"just a little progress" thread

12K views 150 replies 28 participants last post by  Legend V6  
#1 ·
hey whats up everybody. haven't been around to much since nalm 08. been pretty busy with other things. i started working back on the car though so i thought i would share my progress thus far.

got the engine pulled several months back
Photobucket

this is how u remove the exhaust with rounded bolt heads...with a fuckin sawzall. i would only suggest this if u r replacing with obx headers as i am though lol
Photobucket

Photobucket

started pulling apart the engine last week for rebuild.
Photobucket

covers prepped for paint
Photobucket

intake manifold removed
Photobucket

Photobucket

also this may be a good note to most of u out there with cars of this age. hoses i never would have thought to check for replacement. these hoses look terrible. not to mention the rusted out water pipes they connect to. i don't know if it was the coolant used or what.
Photobucket

lots of cleaning to do.
Photobucket

Photobucket

and this is what carbon buildup looks like under your valve covers. use seafoam kids!!!!!!
Photobucket
 
#4 · (Edited)
preciate that pic.. been wanting one of an open topend. next major project on the car is the Tappets and VC gaskets.

also this may be a good note to most of u out there with cars of this age. hoses i never would have thought to check for replacement. these hoses look terrible. not to mention the rusted out water pipes they connect to. i don't know if it was the coolant used or what.
that's regular for any 20+ year car. the hoses are still good unless one is melted or cut. completely reusable. just don't expect them to last another 20 years. as cheap as hose is at your local auto store though, it's better to just replace them. it's just nice to know you don't have to if you're runnin low on cash during a project.
 
#7 ·
that's regular for any 20+ year car. the hoses are still good unless one is melted or cut. completely reusable. just don't expect them to last another 20 years. as cheap as hose is at your local auto store though, it's better to just replace them. it's just nice to know you don't have to if you're runnin low on cash during a project.
Actually quite the contrary...those hoses are typical culprits on the G1 for disappearing coolant for unexplainable reasons...they develop small, slow leaks and are almost impossible to pinpoint the location of the leak due to their close proximity with one another and the fact that they are hidden by so many other things...I would never reuse those bastards bc they are so hard to change as it is already :lol:

Change em all out I say...and dont forget the oil cooler lines that go behind the engine as well!
 
#8 ·
it's all in the time taken to avoid that during the work...

remember, i just pulled my motor and cleaned my entire intake wi/o buying a single oring or gasket. and the only hose i changed was cuz i was trying to tap in my PVC on an aftermarket conefilter.

i'm still using the OEM clamps too.. just made sure they sat correctly.

no leaks.. air or coolant.

if i keep racing the car around dallas i probably will, but if i was a normal driver i'd say everything under the hood is good for a few years.


edit: given, i got lucky none of the hoses were cut or rotting.... like some that i've pulled off of classics. those you gotta replace. but the rotting and corrosion itself is natural.
 
#12 ·
It would be a very good idea to clean all the varnish and carbon out of the heads and valve train. If you have access to a power washer you can make a good start by spraying solvent on the parts and power washing them. After that a machine shop could soak them in a solvent tank to clean it up further.

I would replace all the hoses and put a complete gasket set into it.
 
#14 ·
sam o nela said:
Also I noticed what looks like a pinhole from corrosion on the water pipe that goes under the intake and between the banks....had that things started leaking, talk about an "unfindable leak!!"
i don't actually think it was a pin hole yet. i'm definitely replacing it though.

ymisoqt said:
Nice work! I'm going to be up there on the 20th, I might have to pop in and take a looksee in person!
absolutely come on by.

twizzlers said:
are you sending it in for a rebuild or gonna do it yourdelf?
do all i can myself
 
#15 ·
heres whats on the table for her so far

new water pump, timing belt, and tens.
Photobucket

all new suspension parts
Photobucket

all new gaskets
Photobucket

new belts, hoses
Photobucket

these are actually all the radiator and oil cooler hoses. i will now be buying all those other hoses on the manifold.
Photobucket

haha first fuel filter and oil filter changes after the rebuild.
Photobucket

2 new cv shafts
Photobucket

some new accessories and upgrades

custom intake
Photobucket

apc strut bar
Photobucket

new rear mud flaps
Photobucket

tokico blues
Photobucket

intrax springs
Photobucket

new floor mats
Photobucket

parts still to buy:

obx headers
radiator
complete black interior
???????
 
#19 ·
apc strut bar
Photobucket
I didn't know they made one for the G1? How much did you get it for and where?

Glad to see your replacing the old stuff on the motor to new stuff :thumbsup:.
 
#17 ·
sam o nela said:
^:bowdown:
thank you. it took me forever to get to this point. that little son of a bitch is a tough engine to remove. so much shit to move or remove. should be much easier going back in though. one thing i forgot to mention is it will be going back in with a 5spd rather than the auto tranny.
 
#20 ·
nuclearsymphony said:
^ What Gabe said . . . that's quite a parts list there! Major props to you on doing it the right way and replacing with new. Upgrades too yet . . . hope to see this at N09!
my goal is having a pretty close to showroom quality car when its done. i rented a damn car for nalm08. u better believe my baby will be making it next year. the only thing that may not be done on her by then is paint and body work. if all goes as planned she will be road ready for spring.
 
#21 ·
l4zy415 said:
I didn't know they made one for the G1? How much did you get it for and where?

Glad to see your replacing the old stuff on the motor to new stuff
its the civic strut bar. i am actually going to take it and try to make some custom mounting brackets to fit around the strut tower better though. i got it off ebay. if i remember right it was like $25/$30 or somewhere around there.
 
#22 ·
Oh ok, hope it works out. I wish there was one for us G1 :(.
 
#23 ·
hey i have a general ? about cleaning the internals. is there anything anybody suggests over other cleaners? i'm sure there is stuff u probably don't want to use because of residue. i've been using that citrisolv u can see in some of the pics. as u can guess its a citrus degreaser that leaves little to no residue.
 
#26 ·
What I normally do is to scrape off most of the dirt/grease mix from the outside with a putty knife or screwdriver. Then I use paint thinner and rags to remove most of the remaining greasy material and finally power wash it. After doing that be sure to dry all the machined surfaces and oil them. The machine shop will soak all the parts in solvent, which should remove varnish. Laquer thinner will also work to remove varnish. Carbon, e.g. on the tops of the pistons, can usually be loosened with engine oil which contains detergents which help to disperse carbon.

These engines hold up quite well at high mileage and you may be able to just do a valve/ring job, have the crankshaft polished, and replace the bearings. Beyond that you may want a rebore and oversize pistons and new exhaust valve guides. Unless you have access to a bore gauge it would be best to have a machine shop check the piston fit.
 
#24 ·
l4zy415 said:
Oh ok, hope it works out. I wish there was one for us G1
if it works out and i can come up with good design and template i may be making some for sale. just the brackets though not the bar. time will tell
 
#27 ·
dblanehopr said:
it's not like i wouldn't like to do the same, but that looks to be about what... 2 g's in parts?
oh no not even close. all the parts pictured came to probably a couple hundred dollars. the oem parts alone were around $300. i'm not done buying parts either though.

stephen said:
What I normally do is to scrape off most of the dirt/grease mix from the outside with a putty knife or screwdriver. Then I use paint thinner and rags to remove most of the remaining greasy material and finally power wash it. After doing that be sure to dry all the machined surfaces and oil them. The machine shop will soak all the parts in solvent, which should remove varnish. Laquer thinner will also work to remove varnish. Carbon, e.g. on the tops of the pistons, can usually be loosened with engine oil which contains detergents which help to disperse carbon.

These engines hold up quite well at high mileage and you may be able to just do a valve/ring job, have the crankshaft polished, and replace the bearings. Beyond that you may want a rebore and oversize pistons and new exhaust valve guides. Unless you have access to a bore gauge it would be best to have a machine shop check the piston fit.
thank you for the info. i really don't know if i will be going as far as pistons, rings, and bearings. i am going to have the bottom end checked out, but i think i will probably only be doing the top end. if money allows i would like to check into h22 pistons. i don't know much about that though.
 
#29 ·
Don't forget to replace the bolts. If you try to torque down the old bolds, your gonna snap the head off. Believe me, I know.