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Discussion starter · #21 ·
l4zy415 said:
I didn't know they made one for the G1? How much did you get it for and where?

Glad to see your replacing the old stuff on the motor to new stuff
its the civic strut bar. i am actually going to take it and try to make some custom mounting brackets to fit around the strut tower better though. i got it off ebay. if i remember right it was like $25/$30 or somewhere around there.
 
Oh ok, hope it works out. I wish there was one for us G1 :(.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
hey i have a general ? about cleaning the internals. is there anything anybody suggests over other cleaners? i'm sure there is stuff u probably don't want to use because of residue. i've been using that citrisolv u can see in some of the pics. as u can guess its a citrus degreaser that leaves little to no residue.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
l4zy415 said:
Oh ok, hope it works out. I wish there was one for us G1
if it works out and i can come up with good design and template i may be making some for sale. just the brackets though not the bar. time will tell
 
hey i have a general ? about cleaning the internals. is there anything anybody suggests over other cleaners? i'm sure there is stuff u probably don't want to use because of residue. i've been using that citrisolv u can see in some of the pics. as u can guess its a citrus degreaser that leaves little to no residue.
What I normally do is to scrape off most of the dirt/grease mix from the outside with a putty knife or screwdriver. Then I use paint thinner and rags to remove most of the remaining greasy material and finally power wash it. After doing that be sure to dry all the machined surfaces and oil them. The machine shop will soak all the parts in solvent, which should remove varnish. Laquer thinner will also work to remove varnish. Carbon, e.g. on the tops of the pistons, can usually be loosened with engine oil which contains detergents which help to disperse carbon.

These engines hold up quite well at high mileage and you may be able to just do a valve/ring job, have the crankshaft polished, and replace the bearings. Beyond that you may want a rebore and oversize pistons and new exhaust valve guides. Unless you have access to a bore gauge it would be best to have a machine shop check the piston fit.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
dblanehopr said:
it's not like i wouldn't like to do the same, but that looks to be about what... 2 g's in parts?
oh no not even close. all the parts pictured came to probably a couple hundred dollars. the oem parts alone were around $300. i'm not done buying parts either though.

stephen said:
What I normally do is to scrape off most of the dirt/grease mix from the outside with a putty knife or screwdriver. Then I use paint thinner and rags to remove most of the remaining greasy material and finally power wash it. After doing that be sure to dry all the machined surfaces and oil them. The machine shop will soak all the parts in solvent, which should remove varnish. Laquer thinner will also work to remove varnish. Carbon, e.g. on the tops of the pistons, can usually be loosened with engine oil which contains detergents which help to disperse carbon.

These engines hold up quite well at high mileage and you may be able to just do a valve/ring job, have the crankshaft polished, and replace the bearings. Beyond that you may want a rebore and oversize pistons and new exhaust valve guides. Unless you have access to a bore gauge it would be best to have a machine shop check the piston fit.
thank you for the info. i really don't know if i will be going as far as pistons, rings, and bearings. i am going to have the bottom end checked out, but i think i will probably only be doing the top end. if money allows i would like to check into h22 pistons. i don't know much about that though.
 
yeah, i guess 2 g's is a little high, but i figured with all the suspension parts and all the OEM hoses and then the gasket kit. hmmm

how much you get your gasket kit for?
 
Don't forget to replace the bolts. If you try to torque down the old bolds, your gonna snap the head off. Believe me, I know.
 
I admire your work OP :thumbsup: ...please keep us updated, ya?!?
 
Good luck on this build! From what i can see so far it looks pretty awesome. I can't wait to see the final product.

I've been wanting to do something similar to my G1. I have so many oil leaks that i just want to rip the whole thing apart and just do all the gaskets.

Also good choice on the CV shafts; i bought the same ones last year and they have worked great without any problems.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
dblanehopr said:
how much you get your gasket kit for?
when i bought the kit it was right at $100. i think they have gone up about $20 since then though.

l4zy415 said:
Don't forget to replace the bolts. If you try to torque down the old bolds, your gonna snap the head off. Believe me, I know.
which bolts exactly are you referring to? i had planned on replacing any that looked like they needed it but should i replace all. do you know of any stainless bolt kits out there?

nuclearsymphony said:
By all means, if budget permits, I would love to finally put to rest the H22 piston rumors! I've been itching like mad to do this myself when I finally am able to yank my engine, but if you're first, by all means let us know!
yes budget permitting is everything here.

pnoye2 said:
I admire your work OP ...please keep us updated, ya?!?
thank you. will definitely keep u posted. u guys r some of the best motivation to keep at it.

egamI_rorriM said:
Also good choice on the CV shafts; i bought the same ones last year and they have worked great without any problems.
yeah i heard good things about them from people on here using them. couldn't beat the price either.
 
Its best to get the bolts from the Stealership.
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
car2n said:
I belive the head to block bolts...
oh ok. any other ones i should be concerned about?

l4zy415 said:
Its best to get the bolts from the Stealership.
whats even better is i should be able to get genuine honda bolts from work. i work for a honda power equipment dealer. all the bolts should be same part numbers.
 
whats even better is i should be able to get genuine honda bolts from work. i work for a honda power equipment dealer. all the bolts should be same part numbers.
Well, the you my friend, is lucky lol.
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
well unfortunately after some checking it looks like i won't be able to get the major bolts. some of the smaller ones yes, but like the head to block bolts are model specific. just a bit of information for you all, on a honda part number eg. 90005-ph7-003 (head to block bolt) the ph7 designates the model. thats why most of the parts for g1's have the ph7 in the part#. the reason i can't get them is because nothing in the power equipment side of the company uses that bolt, and even though its just a bolt i still can't order them. so yeah smaller bolts that r just regular metric honda bolts won't be a problem but the major bolts i will have to get from one of the dealerships
 
well unfortunately after some checking it looks like i won't be able to get the major bolts. some of the smaller ones yes, but like the head to block bolts are model specific. just a bit of information for you all, on a honda part number eg. 90005-ph7-003 (head to block bolt) the ph7 designates the model. thats why most of the parts for g1's have the ph7 in the part#. the reason i can't get them is because nothing in the power equipment side of the company uses that bolt, and even though its just a bolt i still can't order them. so yeah smaller bolts that r just regular metric honda bolts won't be a problem but the major bolts i will have to get from one of the dealerships
The head bolts should be reusable. They are not stretch type bolts so can be torqued multiple times. Just clean them up in solvent and put some oil on the threads before you install them.
 
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