At least a few years ago a complete gasket set from the dealer was ~$500.

I used an Ishino head gasket and conversion gasket set and used all but the head gaskets from that kit and bought the head gaskets from the dealer (~$40 each as I remember).

The price for the kit from RPM is very good considering it includes new pistons and rings as well as bearings.

I used a kit from RPM to rebuild our V6 Mustang engine and it had all good quality parts.

 

What is that just carbon? have you used sea foam in your engine?

Looks like you have good progress only for that broken bolt...

keep us posted you doing great... I have a complete 2.7 if you need parts, I won't advice for a used bolt to replace the broken one but if you want I will let you have it for free...

yes i used seafoam right before the last oil change i did on the car before i parked it.

thank you very much but yes i am going to buy all new bolts. i am not using re-using any of the bolts that require torque over about 30 lbs.

Damn, that's a messy piston lol. I'm a bit surprised to see rust on the sleeves. What are you gonna use to clean the pistons?

well originally i was not going to do too much to the bottom end. that is until that sheared bolt showed up. no i will be removing the crankshaft and the pistons. i had just planned on using like brake cleaner to clean the pistons.

There was a neglected cooling system and it distributed rust around.

The carbon on the top of the pistons can be loosened by letting engine oil soak
into it. I would recommend new rings, because the rings are likely gummed up or full of carbon.

The broken bolt on the nearing bridge was likely due to a casting defect. It will be no problem to remove it after the bearing bridge is out. It is actually in one of the main caps.

yes i a very neglected cooling system. some nasty rust colored water came out of it. it will have all new hoses, and radiator to help prevent this again.

yeah now that i am going to remove the pistons i will be doing new rings. just have to watch for some. they r a little pricey from the stealership.

yeah it was no problem at all. in fact i spun it out by hand

 

took the rear cylinder head off this weekend. much easier doing the second one :lol:





what i had assumed was one broken bolt on the bearing bridge turned out to be short sighted after removing this


yeah thats right. 3 count em 3 broken bolts


and this one was actually backed out this far. all the bolts came out by hand. no torque on any of them. i was very very worried. and kinda relieved that i stopped driving it when i did.


i just can't figure out how or why.


from everything i can tell though there is no damage to the crank itself. i think i will just have to replace the main bearing on those 2 bridges and i should be fine. what do u guys think?

 

i can smell the strongass burnt oil smell from here. lol

the first time i ever opened up an engine and took off a part that was installed since the car's birth in my mom's garage, she came out there from the back of the house asking what i was burning. lol

 

Everything looks good. I notice the crankshaft journals look fine as well as the one thrust surface that is visible.

The three broken bolts have to be from someone over torqueing them

If you are going to take the crankshaft out you might want to get it cleaned and polished. You may also want to have a machine shop clean up the block and hone the bores.

The heads should at the least have a valve job and new stem seals and check the gasket surface.

 

Yeah get the crank polished but most importantly balanced.

 

Everything looks good. I notice the crankshaft journals look fine as well as the one thrust surface that is visible.

The three broken bolts have to be from someone over torqueing them

If you are going to take the crankshaft out you might want to get it cleaned and polished. You may also want to have a machine shop clean up the block and hone the bores.

The heads should at the least have a valve job and new stem seals and check the gasket surface.

yeah i was very surprised to see that visually it all looks good. i was pretty sure i was gonna see some kind of warpage or grroving.

yeah i would say probably over torquing them. the only other thing i could think of is that they snapped when the car was in this front end collsion. i dunno.

yes i do plan on doing all this now. have any idea what kind of price i would be looking at for polishing, balancing the crank, and cleaning the block?

 

This link shows the bolts that broke (with pat numbers)

Acura Parts @ AcuraOEMparts.com - Genuine Acura OEM Parts from Delray Acura

 

This link shows the bolts that broke (with pat numbers)

Acura Parts @ AcuraOEMparts.com - Genuine Acura OEM Parts from Delray Acura

oh yes i have used this site a lot recently

 

If youre taking the pistons out...maybe try and come up on some H22 High Compression Pistons... :hide:

Great work either way man!! :thumbsup:

 

If youre taking the pistons out...maybe try and come up on some H22 High Compression Pistons...

Great work either way man!!

oh believe me gabe i have already thought it. i have been trying to find some but gd r they proud of them. plus every h22 piston kit only comes with 4 pistons so i would have to buy 1 and a half sets or buy them individually which i think will be a lot more. i am watching for some though. i would love to put the speculations to bed as well.

 

I'm noticing some of the crank counterweights are very shiny on the sides like they have been rubbing against the main bearing caps and saddles. Have you checked the crankshaft end play? It may be way out of spec.

 

Damn, 3 bolts broken? Fuck man, glad you opened up the bottom. How much would it cost to polish the balancer anyways?

 

Likely costs are:

polish crankshaft journals $75
clean block $100
hone bores $50
valve job $100 per head

I'm more concerned about the apparent crankshaft damage, though it's a bit
hard to know from the pictures, but the crankshaft counterweights should be the same color as the rest of the crankshaft, i.e they shouldn't look like machined surfaces.

My concern is that there is a severe thrust problem, which usually arises from a warped block. If that's really the case it would be better to start with another core. The way to test for it is to remove the piston and rod assemblies and reinstall the main bearing caps, then pry the crankshaft front to back and measure the movement with a dial indicator. Check the specification, but a typical value is 0.005-0.010".

 

I'm noticing some of the crank counterweights are very shiny on the sides like they have been rubbing against the main bearing caps and saddles. Have you checked the crankshaft end play? It may be way out of spec.

i think u r seeing this shinyness from the flash of the camera.

I'm more concerned about the apparent crankshaft damage, though it's a bit
hard to know from the pictures, but the crankshaft counterweights should be the same color as the rest of the crankshaft, i.e they shouldn't look like machined surfaces.

they r the same color as the rest of the crank. burnt oil brown

 

i think u r seeing this shinyness from the flash of the camera.

they r the same color as the rest of the crank. burnt oil brown

Good! Then everything seems fine. That was why I said I couldn't be sure from the pictures.

 

I'm referring to this picture.

pics033.jpg picture by bobbo78 - Photobucket

It looks like the thrust washers are worn down to where the counter weight is hitting.

ya know i can't really tell from the picture either. i will have to take a closer look when i get home tonight. maybe try to take a better picture too

 

well after closer review i see where u r talking about. and yes there is some wear. once i get the piston out i will check the movement of the crank. also i was only going to change the main bearings wear the bolts were broken. is this ok or should i replace all of the main bearings at the same time?

 

You might as well replace all the main bearings, since they come as a set.
I just used standard bearings and didn't bother with selective fit bearings.

To get the crankshaft end play right you will need to replace the thrust washers. You can rotate them out by pushing down on one side with the main cap off. If with new thrust washers in there the crankshaft end play is correct you should be OK, but you should get the thrust surface on the crankshaft at least polished. If the end play is too large even with new thrust washers the may have to weld up the thrust surfaces. It would also be a good idea to have the main bearing saddle and cap alignment checked and possibly have it align honed.

 

I'm so irritated you're getting a shot at those H22 pistons first

Great work! I'm enjoying the "preview" of internals . . . thanks for taking the time to photo-document all of this.

 

I'm so irritated you're getting a shot at those H22 pistons first

Great work! I'm enjoying the "preview" of internals . . . thanks for taking the time to photo-document all of this.

no hard feelings. i gotta afford to buy them first before i can do anything :lol:

glad i could share them with everyone. u guys r the main inspiration for doing this. i know if i have absolutely any questions along the way i will get them answered here. many more pictures to come too. :thumbsup:

 

You might as well replace all the main bearings, since they come as a set.
I just used standard bearings and didn't bother with selective fit bearings.

To get the crankshaft end play right you will need to replace the thrust washers. You can rotate them out by pushing down on one side with the main cap off. If with new thrust washers in there the crankshaft end play is correct you should be OK, but you should get the thrust surface on the crankshaft at least polished. If the end play is too large even with new thrust washers the may have to weld up the thrust surfaces. It would also be a good idea to have the main bearing saddle and cap alignment checked and possibly have it align honed.

yeah this is all kind of new to me. this is my first actuall rebuild sooo. i called a couple machine shops today and priced some of this stuff. the prices u gave were pretty close to what they told me.

ok now some questions about the h22 pistons. would anything else have to be changed to make them work? since all these are 87mm would either of these work?

eBay Motors: CP Pistons Honda Prelude H22 87mm 10.0:1 SC7130 H22a (item 310115806838 end time Feb-13-09 18:00:52 PST)

eBay Motors: CP Pistons Honda Prelude H22 87mm 11.5:1 SC7131 H22a (item 300287022648 end time Feb-13-09 18:01:00 PST)

and does anybody know where i can get them cheaper than this? and possible buy 6 rather than a set of 4?

 

From the pictures I can see that the crankshaft has been pushed forward while running. This is probably from a bad torque convertor. I think you said you were going to install a new transmission (manual).

 

From the pictures I can see that the crankshaft has been pushed forward while running. This is probably from a bad torque convertor. I think you said you were going to install a new transmission (manual).

yes i am putting a 5spd in it. the auto will not be going back in.

 

This shows the normal machining operations on the block to be sure everything is square and aligned.

YouTube - Cylinder Block Machining Video - Engine Building DVD

 

does 1987-1990 C27 Gasket Set have all the gaskets needed? and is this a good price?

 

Damn, it does, but who makes those anyways?

 

Yes that's a good $ but quality might be questionable, warranty is good for 60 days if you don't like you can send it back but loose on the shipping lol

 

heh, out more than shipping if something breaks because of cheap gaskets.

how much is it if bought separately through the dealership?

 

does 1987-1990 C27 Gasket Set have all the gaskets needed? and is this a good price?

this is the kit i purchased for mine. for the c27a rather the the c25a though. he doesn't have any listed for the c27a right now but i am sure he has them. seems like a really good quality set. i am still debating on purchasing the head gaskets from the dealer though.

haha forgot to post the link.

eBay Motors: 1986-87 ACURA LEGEND V6 2.5 2493CC C25A FULL GASKET SET (item 220354780312 end time Feb-09-09 18:00:00 PST)