[dblanehopr]

looks good man. nice cleanin job too.

 

[dblanehopr]

looks good man. nice cleanin job too.

 

[Fut]

if you want to drive out to san jacinto...

Let me give that some thought...

One...

Fut :2cool:

 

[kclegend77]

a surprise waiting in my oil pan

i was not happy to find this surprise. it didn't come balloons or confetti. my question is how??why??









one of the worst smells i have ever encountered in my life came from the depths of my cylinder head.







my goal for the weekend was to have 1 of the cylinder heads off the block. i didn't reach my goal. took out all the rocker arms, push rods and tappets. got all the head bolts to turn about a 1/4 turn and then nothing. won't budge. any suggestions? anybody opposed to using heat to try and break the bolts free?

 

[kclegend77]

sorry bout the camera phone pics. left my real camera at work over the weekend.

 

[l4zy415]

Damn, did you find the bolt broken already, or did you snap it?

 

[kclegend77]

Damn, did you find the bolt broken already, or did you snap it?

the pic 3 and 4 show where the bolt came from. just to the right of the oil pick up tube. no i didn't snap it. it was in my pan when i removed it. i'm not even sure what the bolt is for. just set it aside for the moment

 

[l4zy415]

So I'm guessing the heads won't come off correct?

 

[scythe]

I take it that the bolt is honda OEM?
I have a feeling that these bolts are quite brittle and by design quite weak.
At the wreckers last weekend i went to grab my self some tappets, in the process of undoing the bolts that hold down the cam shaft 'cage' 4 of the bastards snapped off inside the head (a good 1/4" worth of bolt thread still lodged in the head).
Yes i was turning them the correct way and no i did not apply any shock load to it.
Why did they snap?
They shouldn't have, they are only meant to be torqued to 23ft'lbs or so.
They should have come out easy.
All i can say is that have a set of easy-out's (screw/stud/bolt extractors) hand if you are doing any form of head work, or better yet send it out to a shop, so that if they break them they have to replace them.

 

[l4zy415]

They break cause of age. Nothing last forever.

 

[kclegend77]

So I'm guessing the heads won't come off correct?

well not at the moment cause i still gotta remove the head bolts. i didn't want to torque on them any harder. i am going to try and heat them with a torch to see if that helps. last thing i wanna do is snap a head bolt and have to deal with that.

 

[l4zy415]

Ya I feel ya on that. GL, hope none of them snaps off. If they do, you might as well buy new ones at the dealership.

 

[stephen]

The broken bolt is one of the bolts that retains the main bearing bridge.

I've never had head bolts turn 1/4 turn and then not turn further. Perhaps there is corrosion in the threads?

Rather than heat the bolts there is a product that could cool the bolts down and hence shrink them.

 

[stephen]

You might see if this stuff would loosen up the head bolts

http://www.crcindustries.com/files/Freeze-Off Brochure.pdf

Also try torquing them in order and loosening them again in order.

 

[car2n]

The broken bolt is one of the bolts that retains the main bearing bridge.

If this is true than I belive that it might be possible to remove the broken bolt by removing the rest bolts of that main bearing bridge and then the broken bolt will be exposed for better "gri" and removal...

 

[stephen]

If this is true than I belive that it might be possible to remove the broken bolt by removing the rest bolts of that main bearing bridge and then the broken bolt will be exposed for better "gri" and removal...

I'm sure that's the case. You probably have enough exposed thread to lock two nuts on the bolt.

 

[stephen]

This shows what the intact bolt looks like

acura engine :: bearing girdle/oil feeds in picture by swalch - Photobucket

 

[kclegend77]

Ya I feel ya on that. GL, hope none of them snaps off. If they do, you might as well buy new ones at the dealership.

yeah i concidered just buying all new ones anyways, but at almost $9 a piece i figured i would wait till i get them out and inspect them.

You might see if this stuff would loosen up the head bolts

http://www.crcindustries.com/files/F...20Brochure.pdf

Also try torquing them in order and loosening them again in order.

has anyone used this stuff before? where can i get it? auto parts stores carry it?

This shows what the intact bolt looks like

yup thats it alright. 3rd one on the left

 

[stephen]

I would try auto parts stores for the "freeze-off".

The head bolt problem is serious stuff. Are you absolutely sure you are loosening the bolts and not tightening them?

In addition to trying to cool the bolts down to try to break loose any corrosion,
I would try tightening all of them to specs and then working on one at a time.
It's possible that, if you alternately tighten and loosen the bolts, eventually they will start to turn freely.

If you continue to have problems, it might be best to drag the engine down to a machine shop and let them disassemble it and clean everything up.

 

[kclegend77]

I would try auto parts stores for the "freeze-off".

The head bolt problem is serious stuff. Are you absolutely sure you are loosening the bolts and not tightening them?

In addition to trying to cool the bolts down to try to break loose any corrosion,
I would try tightening all of them to specs and then working on one at a time.
It's possible that, if you alternately tighten and loosen the bolts, eventually they will start to turn freely.

If you continue to have problems, it might be best to drag the engine down to a machine shop and let them disassemble it and clean everything up.

yes i have tried tightening them and loosening them both to try to break free the corrosion.

i have thought about taking it to a machine shop, but don't want to spend the money on it.

what do you suggest for cleaning the internals? (valves, springs, pushrods, rocker arms) should i use mineral spirits like i am gonna do for the tappets? or could i just use brake cleaner on those items?