[stephen]

There appeared to be a lot of corrosion in the engine from the early pictures, so that's what is holding the head bolts. Most machine shops would heat up the bolts and you might try that with a propane torch on the bolt heads. After it has cooled down try the freeze-off. The freeze-off has penetrating oil in it.

You can clean up the parts with paint thinner or lacquer thinner.

 

[car2n]

These bolts are really torqued and tighted for some reason... but they will lose, i belive that the rest of the bolts will come off maybe this bolt was already not good or maybe retorqued...

 

[dblanehopr]

what do you suggest for cleaning the internals? (valves, springs, pushrods, rocker arms) should i use mineral spirits like i am gonna do for the tappets? or could i just use brake cleaner on those items?

mineral spirits is what you use in a parts cleaner, so that would be best.

but when cleaning metal parts... i just use gas or carb cleaner. carb cleaner doesn't leave a residue. i'll even use it on matin surfaces that will recieve RTV silicone. a good dry rag wipedown after it's dry and clean and i've never had a problem with the seal.

gas works just fine on parts too. i've used that on parts that i seal later... i just make sure i spray some carb cleaner on the mating surfaces and wipe it down prior to RTV'ing.

 

[kclegend77]

well good news. i was able to break lose the head bolts this morning. i sprayed them pretty generously last night with penetrating oil. worked em back and forth a little, bit my tongue and hoped they wouldn't snap. thank god they didn't

 

[kclegend77]

had to go to work though so i didn't actually pull the head off yet. gonna do that tonight

 

[stephen]

mineral spirits is the same thing as paint thinner.

Gasoline isn't recommended for cleaning parts since it is so dangerous.

Earlier in this post I explained how I clean up parts using paint thinner and rags followed by power washing.

As I explained there be sure to dry and oil machined surfaces after cleaning them to prevent rusting.

Also any gasket surfaces should be cleaned with a volatile solvent such as lacquer thinner prior to assembly, especially where RTV will be used.

mineral spirits is what you use in a parts cleaner, so that would be best.

but when cleaning metal parts... i just use gas or carb cleaner. carb cleaner doesn't leave a residue. i'll even use it on matin surfaces that will recieve RTV silicone. a good dry rag wipedown after it's dry and clean and i've never had a problem with the seal.

gas works just fine on parts too. i've used that on parts that i seal later... i just make sure i spray some carb cleaner on the mating surfaces and wipe it down prior to RTV'ing.

 

[stephen]

Really good news that you got the head bolts out! I'm sure the same approach will work on the other side. It's good to take your time and let penetrating oil work on it.

 

[scythe]

Gasoline isn't recommended for cleaning parts since it is so dangerous.

Why is 'gas' so dangerous?
Because its flash point is -23*C (-10*F)?
Or because the liquid is carcenogenic (not entirly sure about this one)?

You do realise that 'thinners' are just as dangerous, they will burn just as well if you are smoking/playing with fire around them, and will still give off vapours that make you light headed (or asphixiate you if you are foolish enough to work in a confined space).

 

[stephen]

Why is 'gas' so dangerous?
Because its flash point is -23*C (-10*F)?
Or because the liquid is carcenogenic (not entirly sure about this one)?

You do realise that 'thinners' are just as dangerous, they will burn just as well if you are smoking/playing with fire around them, and will still give off vapours that make you light headed (or asphixiate you if you are foolish enough to work in a confined space).

I believe gasoline is not recommended as a solvent because of flammability. Also it used to contain lead which is a cumulative toxin. Mineral spirits is probably better, but lacquer thinner is as bad or worse as far as flammability goes. It's very important to have adequate ventilation and no ignition sources.

Hydrocarbon solvents are not good for you and may be carcinogenic. Used oil is carcinogenic because it contains very small carbon particles and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs). Lacquer thinner is toxic to the liver and some machinists have gotten liver disease from working with it.

This is why I try to scrape off as much of the oily dirt and wipe down with paint thinner and rags, so I can dispose of most of it in the trash and keep it out of the environment as much as possible. It's probably well worth paying a machine shop to clean the parts, since they will dispose of the waste responsibly.

 

[kclegend77]

so i got my head off.............



lots of carbon buildup








i got gravel in my engine :lol: can u see it?

 

[stephen]

It all looks pretty good. There is rust in the water jacket and it looks like the head gasket may have been seeping some from the looks of the rust stains on it. However, the gasket surfaces look good and the cylinder walls look good.

 

[car2n]

so i got my head off.............



lots of carbon buildup

What is that just carbon? have you used sea foam in your engine?

Looks like you have good progress only for that broken bolt...

keep us posted you doing great... I have a complete 2.7 if you need parts, I won't advice for a used bolt to replace the broken one but if you want I will let you have it for free...

 

[l4zy415]

Damn, that's a messy piston lol. I'm a bit surprised to see rust on the sleeves. What are you gonna use to clean the pistons?

 

[stephen]

Damn, that's a messy piston lol. I'm a bit surprised to see rust on the sleeves. What are you gonna use to clean the pistons?

There was a neglected cooling system and it distributed rust around.

The carbon on the top of the pistons can be loosened by letting engine oil soak
into it. I would recommend new rings, because the rings are likely gummed up or full of carbon.

The broken bolt on the nearing bridge was likely due to a casting defect. It will be no problem to remove it after the bearing bridge is out. It is actually in one of the main caps.

 

[WhtCastle]

Wow good progress. That's some shit I would like to do some day.....

 

[car2n]

There was a neglected cooling system and it distributed rust around.

The carbon on the top of the pistons can be loosened by letting engine oil soak
into it. I would recommend new rings, because the rings are likely gummed up or full of carbon.

The broken bolt on the nearing bridge was likely due to a casting defect. It will be no problem to remove it after the bearing bridge is out. It is actually in one of the main caps.

+1 I agree with that:yes: Now that is all apart time to do most of the possible things you can do on the engine and do the right work and not take any chances with old rings or other parts that might brake or cause a problem in the future...

Anyway good work...

 

[89HondaLegend]

Good job on getting the head off. I was debating on whether to do mine but opted out as I didn't have enough money for new gaskets and to have the head cleaned up properly.
I ended up spending a hefty amount on gaskets but saved a bit by not doing the head gaskets obviously. (A gasket kit for the Legend was over $1000)

 

[car2n]

That is really expensive is this just gaskets? I have seeing good prices for a full repair kits on the web...
RPM Machine - Product » Acura 2.7L 1987-1990 C27A1 Engine Rebuil...

 

[89HondaLegend]

Yeah that was just for the gaskets and stem seals. However I would prefer to get one from the US if I ever need to to save some dollars.

 

[stephen]

At least a few years ago a complete gasket set from the dealer was ~$500.

I used an Ishino head gasket and conversion gasket set and used all but the head gaskets from that kit and bought the head gaskets from the dealer (~$40 each as I remember).

The price for the kit from RPM is very good considering it includes new pistons and rings as well as bearings.

I used a kit from RPM to rebuild our V6 Mustang engine and it had all good quality parts.