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I just changed a BHG and took out the hydraulic lifters/tappets and cleaned them. They were stuck so bad, they could sit in the cleaning fluid all day and still not have any movement! Whatever gets inside them is tough stuff. Someone at the local auto parts said oil companies use parafin wax in engine oil? Before I tried adding Lucas oil stabiliser to Castor high milage oil, and sometimes the liffter ticking would go away but it was always intermittent. I took some tappets out of a car at the junk yard and they were as stuck as mine. After I get my car back together and running I will find out if it helped.
 
As far as bleeding I dont really know, maybe someone else can explain how to do it. In the Haynes manual it says, "if you suspect any of the lash adjusters are faulty, take them to the dealer for air bleeding and inspection". Whatever taking the lifters out soaking and ckeaning them and replacing them isnt difficult.
 
I just changed a BHG and took out the hydraulic lifters/tappets and cleaned them. They were stuck so bad, they could sit in the cleaning fluid all day and still not have any movement! Whatever gets inside them is tough stuff. Someone at the local auto parts said oil companies use parafin wax in engine oil? Before I tried adding Lucas oil stabiliser to Castor high milage oil, and sometimes the liffter ticking would go away but it was always intermittent. I took some tappets out of a car at the junk yard and they were as stuck as mine. After I get my car back together and running I will find out if it helped.
To bleed just slowly start leaning the tappet to horizontal position and the oil or any fluid in the tappet will drain from it, then set the tappet on a flat surface table or any flat surface hold it with your fingers by the side and then with your other hand using 2 finger (don't cover any of the holes with your fingers while doing this) press down the round shped part of the tappet, the tappet should go down very easy with out any fluids in it if soes not press down need to soak it down with "mineral spirts" solvent over night then repeat the previous test if still not pressing then tappet is bad and it will need replacement, this tappets are extremly easyly holders of all kind of oil residues that will cause them to fail and do what we all know as "valve ticking" in our cars, i recomend that every time that these tappets are removed they should be cleaned any way possible.
Check this...http://www.acura-legend.com/vbulletin/f2/lifter-noise-fixed-125760/
 
I just changed a BHG and took out the hydraulic lifters/tappets and cleaned them. They were stuck so bad, they could sit in the cleaning fluid all day and still not have any movement! Whatever gets inside them is tough stuff. Someone at the local auto parts said oil companies use parafin wax in engine oil? Before I tried adding Lucas oil stabiliser to Castor high milage oil, and sometimes the liffter ticking would go away but it was always intermittent. I took some tappets out of a car at the junk yard and they were as stuck as mine. After I get my car back together and running I will find out if it helped.
There is no wax in engine oil. Paraffin is just the name of the chemical hydrocarbon family that Pennsylvania crude oil belongs to.
 
Tappet Bleeding

thanx Jim T.

CAR-N... wouldn't that just allow air to get in? in the FSM, it's saying that you bleed the tappet by placing it in a cup of oil and press and 2mm stick down into the top of the tappet til it goes all the way in to it and push down on the test ball at the bottom of the tappet. it says that should release air, and when it's done bubbling, you're done bleeding the tappet.

so, they way you did yours, i'm assuming it worked because, you solved your prob i guess... but i don't get how just turning them horizontal releases all the air and oil??? and then to press the plunger (the round part at the top) while it's on a table.. shouldn't that just allow air to go inside?

and what gets me most of all about these Tappets, is that in the FSM, it shows that the tappet has a 'high-pressure' chamber at the bottom that will release the air when you're bleeding. so how does it pressurize??!!
is natural oil pressure what pressurizes Tappets? or is the FSM literally telling me to let out the air in the Tappet's pressure chamber.
what i really don't get is that i read somewhere along the way that excessive release of that air will create "SINK". where you're rocker does not fully open the valve.
 
thanx Jim T.

CAR-N... wouldn't that just allow air to get in? in the FSM, it's saying that you bleed the tappet by placing it in a cup of oil and press and 2mm stick down into the top of the tappet til it goes all the way in to it and push down on the test ball at the bottom of the tappet. it says that should release air, and when it's done bubbling, you're done bleeding the tappet.

so, they way you did yours, i'm assuming it worked because, you solved your prob i guess... but i don't get how just turning them horizontal releases all the air and oil??? and then to press the plunger (the round part at the top) while it's on a table.. shouldn't that just allow air to go inside?

and what gets me most of all about these Tappets, is that in the FSM, it shows that the tappet has a 'high-pressure' chamber at the bottom that will release the air when you're bleeding. so how does it pressurize??!!
is natural oil pressure what pressurizes Tappets? or is the FSM literally telling me to let out the air in the Tappet's pressure chamber.
what i really don't get is that i read somewhere along the way that excessive release of that air will create "SINK". where you're rocker does not fully open the valve.
This process is just for cleaning and testing of the operation of the tappets, once you had clean them and find out which ones are not working replace the bad tappets then you need to reacharge the tappets before putting back in the head, just follow the instructions in the manual to recharge but for cleaning and testing you can use the what i did it.
 
the way in the manual's tellin me to literally bleed oil into this tap in a cup of oil, pressing down on a checkball. so.. is that what you mean by recharging it? ...but full of oil? here's what i'm not getting.. if it's pressurized, that means it's got air in it. why's the manual telling me to release the air?

or is it supposed to fill up with oil? as in the oil pressure in the engine operates them? so the pressure chamber at the bottom of the tappet is more like a place where junk and air catches?... that can't be right, cuz the tappets are checked after you take them out of the head.


.......
:wtf: is a damn tappet???? heh.
 
To my knowledge the lifter become solid or pressurised using the engine oil. When you squeeze the lifter gently the oil comes out, when sudden force is applied it 'locks' the oil in it and is pressurised.
There is no air chamber. You need to soak them in spirits and squeeze them to get the gunk out. When charging them, immerse in oil so that there is no air that can get into them and squeeze the tappet until the air stop coming out so that when it is put into the engine it will already be full of oil and ready to go.
 
HARK THE HERALD ANGELS SIIIING...JOY TO THE WORLD THE NEW BORN KING!!

DAMNIT MAN, YOU'RE A GODSEND!

that was the only other major thing on this car i needed to know how to do. :bowdown: :bowdown: :woot:

after i do all this crap... ahem
3 bad engine mounts, reset others
full intake soak n clean, all other parts as well
test sensors

....easier than it looks.. i'm, as we speak, pulling the motor to repair one of the engine mounts.

after that.. i'm gonna pull the heads and replace HG and clean out tappets.

:p
 
Got the engine running,sounds good so far, but it has a sputtering uneven idle, runs OK when I rev it and the timming marks are OK, some of the spark plugs are sooty and some are wet? Looked at the old posts for answers, leaking hoses, bleed the radiator/cooling system, distributor,spark plugs etc. Any Ideas, I'm thinking about replacing the wire harness. Some of the wires insulation is brittle and cracked.
 
it's all in the Factory Manual (FSM) in the Gen1's FAQ thread.

i've already printed out that whole chapter.

i believe you'll find it in chapter 6, but don't qoute me. in the FAQ thread there's also a Table of Contents link you should print out. this has the actual page numbers to find the spot you need. the FSM is in Adobe format. easy to find everything you need.

i just did the majority of chapter 6's tests. the car's runnin great. sides the Crank Sensor.. i think it's something else though.
 
Our ticking might come from uneven cylinder head torque. Look at the following article where it mentions a similar problem with a 90 Acura Integra. Read into the article to see what I am speaking of. See page 2/7

Be sure to Right Click...Zoom In.
http://userpages.umbc.edu/~pogo1/integra_bushings.swf
 
Our ticking might come from uneven cylinder head torque. Look at the following article where it mentions a similar problem with a 90 Acura Integra. Read into the article to see what I am speaking of. See page 2/7

Be sure to Right Click...Zoom In.
http://userpages.umbc.edu/~pogo1/integra_bushings.swf
The "lifter ticking" that the G1 owners know is usally caused by dirty Tappets which had being accumuleting carbon deposits from oil or other sh*t like that this tick will come and go and on different amount of times. Each one has its own problem but the cause is the same the most and lightest form known is the "morning thicking" or the "cold start thicking" this one will go right away in few seconds or in some cases maybe a minute or more, there are several other cases but all them are caused by the same problem low maintenence poor oil and filter changes under a heavy duty use.
 
The "lifter ticking" that the G1 owners know is usally caused by dirty Tappets which had being accumuleting carbon deposits from oil or other sh*t like that this tick will come and go and on different amount of times. Each one has its own problem but the cause is the same the most and lightest form known is the "morning thicking" or the "cold start thicking" this one will go right away in few seconds or in some cases maybe a minute or more, there are several other cases but all them are caused by the same problem low maintenence poor oil and filter changes under a heavy duty use.
I can second this. I cleaned all my tappets with kerosene and bled with new oil. They are completely free of any tapping which is pretty impressive for 20 year old tappets with 206K Miles on them.

I found the reason why the engine idle wouldn't slow down, forget to put on the PCV valve cover O-ring! The engine ticking is gone too, and the car passed the smog test last week.
Glad you got the fast idle fixed but I can't imagine the PCV having anything to do with the tapping noise. Most likely the slower idle has decreased the tapping.
 
There's a permanent fix for the lifter tick, I have been around the forums for a long time and so far no one else has figured it out. Or at least if they have, they haven't told anyone just like me ;)
 
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