just a note here guys, and keep in mind that i don't know anything about turbos, fluid mechanics, aerodynamics, or anything like that.

Also, telion, i know you said you did not want a beast-machines drag-queen.

Why not run the headers up above the engine and turbos on top with the intakes outside the engine bay like a blower / sc like the old muscle cars do? It would save LOTS of space and simplify things a little bit. You'd have to cut the shit out of your hood or not run with a hood at all...not exactly ideal, but neither is putting a turbo on a legend ;0




in addition...i though when you turbo'd an NA engine that you had to "build it" meaning forged pistons, and other "hardened" parts that can stand up to more abuse costing lots of money?

 

Dv8, those are strictly a mock up. My headers aren't made that way. I'm saying to figure out bends and the routing of the piping, we used that flexing pipe to get the bands etc. It might not make sense the way I'm saying it but let me see if I can make more sense.

From the flanges we welded on a one inch piece of pipe and from there we tried bending different ways to see which would be the 'best'. From there once we got the bends we bent the stainless pipes to the degrees needed and welded them all up to make the header then make a collector and pipe that connected both headers then down pipe etc. Sorry for the confusion.

Oh and no emissions here either

 

Too bad those are just a mockup, i was ready to send you the ******* repair of the year award. There is a company that do it that way as well. They send you plastic pieces that you bend to shape then mail them back and they weld it out of stainless.

 

Wow that was an interesting page 22 lol. Sorry I won't be using these materials, you might have missed this part but I want them to be solid and a product that I would feel good selling if I decided to sell them and attaching those to a 75.00 set of flanges would be blasphemy. I beleive I am also good on space I have made all the necessary changes and found a decent set of 16g mild steel collectors. Thanks though.

 

Ok while narrowing my choice I came across a couple collectors that I like in my pricerange, one of them being something I never thought of before that could be great for tight spaces.

 

Ok while narrowing my choice I came across a couple collectors that I like in my pricerange, one of them being something I never thought of before that could be great for tight spaces.

Ha! I bought these hooker formed collectors.

I'm not using nearly that much length though.

~Dv8

 

those look nice.

 

They should be adequate the top one is the one I would prefer to get but I can't find the gauge of mild steel that they are. I know that they are Hooker collectors. The other two are Megs.

 

same material? the top one looks a little diff. maybe the lighting.

 

I suspect the top one (hooker) set is 18g and the two bottom (Megs) are 16g

 

haha

Seems like Dv8 is always an f***ing DBAG... hey but looks pretty cool definitely took a shit ton of time and work i know how that goes telion we should definitely meet up when i get back in October

 

looks pretty cool definitely took a shit ton of time and work i know how that goes telion we should definitely meet up when i get back in October

Yeah that would be cool if I ever get this done lol :yes:

On a side note where the F is my water temp gauge, it should have been here by now.

 

^^what was that for?

 

No inconvenience I was wondering if there was something I missed somewhere but moving on, Thanks it would be appreciated the not knowing of the ga. of the hookers is the one thing that is has me leaning toward Megs.

 

good post

The post about single vs. Twin helped me out a lot! So wat turbos would u go with for the twin set up? Also where would u place them because its a tight fit.

 

Ok time to get back on track and talk headers. Since we currently have two other cars to drive I took the opportunity to leave my car down and get some additional work done. Part of this work entailed getting the headers laid out. I would be embarrased to admit the amount of hours I spent getting these to this point lol but what the hell it was worth it. The tape is there until they are tacked together for a final test fit before being welded so forgive the shiney stuff.

Even though they look like exact opposites from side to side there are some differences that were required but I did hope for them to come out similar in look and size from the length of each pipe from side to side to the overall look let me know what you think so far.

So speak now or forever hold your peace :angel:

Collectors are next, I wanted to get to this point before deciding which collectors to go with. I admit though, I still have not found what I really want in my price range and material requirement which would be a set like on the OBX's.

 

Telion,
First and foremost, I applaud your efforts. I've been where you are, and I can appreciate how much work, time and effort you've put in to get to where you are with these manifolds. So please understand that this is only meant to be some helpful advice and by no means a criticism of your work.
Is the flange stainless? Either mild or stainless, it just CANNOT be aluminum. I'm only saying this because from the photos, I can't tell the difference.
Secondly, when building a set of manifolds, it's easiest to build from the flange to the collector. Meaning that you locate the collector in the vehicle and start building your pipes until they reach the collector. This ensures that all the pipes line up properly and that your collector is symmetrical in the end. It also allows you a definitive location to end the primaries so you can make them equal length. With your turbo set up, I agree that equal lengths take second priorty to packaging and from the photos, it looks like you're pretty close on your alignment, so adding a collector may not be too difficult. Those are good things. :yes:
Lastly is your choice in material. I've been reading through this thread, and forgive me if I missed it, but I really hope that you aren't planning on running that piping as your final part. 16 gauge mild or stainless steel have been used for turbo manifolds for decades. If welded properly, they shouldn't have any problems with cracking. If time and use show cracking to be a small problem, welding on structural gussets to the pipe is always an acceptable solution.

My strong advice is to get some 16 gauge mild steel u-bends in the tighest bend radius you can find (you should only need to buy four u-bends, don't pay more than $80 total) and go over those pipes again. This time with your collectors placed in the engine bay ahead of time.
When you're cutting and shaping the individual pieces, use a sharpie to draw two paralles lines across the joint between the two pipes. This'll let you know exactly where they lined up and won't leave a tape residue you'll have to clean off when you're ready to weld. If you can't tack the final parts together and must use tape, I'd suggest some wide blue painters tape because it should leave the least amount of residue.
Best of luck Telion, I hope this hasn't upset you too much, I know it's not exactly what people like to hear. I'd still be happy to assist supplying you collectors if you'd like and with the welding as well.
Cheers,

 

When you're cutting and shaping the individual pieces, use a sharpie to draw two paralles lines across the joint between the two pipes. This'll let you know exactly where they lined up and won't leave a tape residue you'll have to clean off when you're ready to weld.

Yeah, I was going to say the same thing. The problem is we are going to need it taped together anyway so that it doesn't become a puzzle for us to put back together. If you could mark it and clean off the residue and then put it back together with painters tape that would help us out alot.

Another problem might be welding in the middle where the pipes are close together. If you leave the pipes spaced out a little it will help with the final weld and it will be much cooler running them too. (not cool like the Fonz, cool like a breeze)

Try to get this done soon as I will be leaving to Peru in the middle of October.

 

Thanks Kho, and by all means had it not been for constructive criticism I would not have gotten this far with this or many other projects I take on. and yeah I cold certainly see how it would be easier to work your way back to the head from the collector, especially if I were to bend and weld each runner right then.

The flanges are a mild steel, very nicely done I might add, I was impressed once I received them. Unfortunately I did have to go with the pricey ducting tape because the the blue tape would break and there was too much elasticity of the electrical tape was not working out so luckily I had some on hand, it's pricey and sticky but worked great lol. As for the other material, I have become partial to the heavier gauge mild steel for now for a couple reasons one big one being that the skillset of who ever welds them will not need to be that of a master welder. The others being their ability to hold in heat, and loggevity. If I were to have them reproduced and not made by me these would just become a template and I would have them made (vs make them) out of probably a 16g mild steel, tig welded and coated. But these will do for now .

I do thank you for the offering of assistance and really more importantly the advise on how to build a header. It is not often that you have a pro to oversee things and provide helpful tips. I have read a lot about doing this but the real pro's such as yourself aren't usually as readily available as you have made yourself let alone explain how they would go through the process.

 

So whats the final story with those headers? Like where did you end up getting the flanges and piping from and the costs (if you don't mind) of the materials. Looks like everything is back on track, very exciting.

 

Yeah finally got everything back ontrack still a lot of pipinng work to do on the hotside and some plumbing of the oil lines and well, I am no where near done damn . The final verdict is that they are (atleast the ones that I bought were too thin they were about 18ga which would be to thin IMO down the road but I would think you might get away with them if you are running a small turbo or going N/A you could get them to fit with some time and work. Better than spending 300.00 on OBX's I got the flanges from a fellow member but I can have them made if you are interested and the and the piping I got off Ebay. "Can you say Luxury Legend meets homemadeturbo.com"

WOW. telion. those look really nice. the ones on the right look more put together...

 

WOW. telion. those look really nice. the ones on the right look more put together...

 

So is the 3.5 essentially a stroked 3.2 block, or does it have different dimensions? Will i have more clearance on a 3.2? Id be a lot more comfortable if i swapped in a 3.5 first like yours or Dv8s since its block forged. Still i keep finding turbos for cheap on craigslist and your project has me dreaming.

 

basically yes and the angle that the heads sit at are slightly different but personally I think the space constraint would not change by doing the swap, nd then Buzzard said something somewhere about the bolts on the 3.2 internals where stronger (more of a mental note for me to find this)

 

sitting and waiting patiently

 

since this has also become somewhat of an informative thread as well I will try to be more diligent about throwing in links to informative sites that contained what I considered as useful information. This one is from a manufacturer of an Audi 2.7 aftermarket header that elaborates on the benefits of a collector style header vs a log style header I thought it was a good read and applicable.

http://www.awe-tuning.com/media/pdf/2.7T_header_comparison.pdf

at some point I will make a single post that has all the links in one place.

I also came across another link that I read a while back when I had to determine a new course of action for the headers, in hindsight I guess it was pretty convincing lol. Again I found the informative.

Not sure why the link says Browser warning but it is titled
Making Turbo Manifolds, Part 2
Step-by-step making a turbo manifold
by Julian Edgar
Browser Warning

 

thanks telion. that was very interesting.:thumbsup:

 

Looking good Telion!

 

One very important thing I forgot to mention was to literally wash the inside of the manifolds before installing them. Small bits of metal dust or weld slag would very quickly ruin your compressor blades and render your turbo almost useless.
I've seen it happen and it ain't pretty!

 

Absolutely, Ok time to continue fill our minds with more knowlege of turbo setups, as I have noticed yet another obvious thing that I have possibly over looked. I am not so sure that the smaller turbos would yield the necessity of a crankcase breather tank but to be safe and to decrease my work load if I upgrade I am going to add it into the scheme of things. Also here is another link to an informative page that pointed this oversight out to me It seemed to be very thurough and understandable even for someone who knows nothing about a turbo build.

G2IC Turbo Guide - A Guide to Turbocharging your Honda / Acura Integra

 

he he all this turbo production by telion is due to me? If it Wasn"t for me sending him my turbo to start his project he would of just went a head and finished his supercharger?

 

Lol, well to some degree you are somewhat correct and wrong at the same time. I am still waiting on Labrat to finish his part of my intake manifold build that has taken several months now. So in my wait and out of my desire to stay busy an idea was sparked when I had nothing to do and bought your turbo to help you out lol. All that led to the idea of doing something just as big while I am waiting, and sadly enough it will probably be done before I get my intake manifold back.

 

Definitely take all the credit.