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Discussion starter · #461 ·
Ok more pics and the problem at hand.

Passenger side
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And now for the problem; correcting a bolt hitting the runner issue caused a shift in the angle of the turbo that was unaccounted for. So I need to cut and turn the driverside turbo clock wise and put a pie shaped sliver in there to correct the problem.

I have also decided that it will also be getting vented.

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On a side note I have also sourced a blitz turbo timer.
 
Discussion starter · #462 ·
Interesting point you make there and I thought about that shall we say an error in my favor. In my uneducated non scientific understanding of VE The decreasing pipe size will prove to be advantageous because at the point of the turbo flange the diamer again increases creating a vortex of sorts. There is another word that I am looking for but I have not been able to think of it for four days; but it is what makes a protein skimmer work in teh salt water aquarium world.

About the welds, the prettiness is much less relavant than the fact that they fully penetrate and are solid. They may be ground down a bit and will get Jet coated once this has proven to work.
I was referring to Vic's manifolds. Either way, I can't say shit because I haven't made them, and they both look like they'll get the job done!:thumbsup:
 
oooooo i see lol and bye the way vics header and telions headers are the same just for clarification?
 
Discussion starter · #466 ·
Correct Vic's friend welded my headers and did a solid job in doing so it may not look like it from the welds but a lot of time was spent on them to ensure they were thick and fully sealed. and the area in between thhe collectors were filled as well
 
Discussion starter · #469 ·
Telion i can't remember what you said you were using for the fuel pressure regulator but Holley makes a boost controlled one that adds 4psi per lb of boost.
Hmm didn't know Holley made an adjustable fuel rate FPR. I am hoping to get it to run off the ECU and a vacuum switch but that is a whole new can of worms we won't go into yet.
 
Discussion starter · #470 ·
I'm not going to say that I told you so, but I will anyway. :(
It wasn't what you were thinking remember how it was not completely tight up top where the flange hit the head well once the fit was allowed to be flush which it had to be I didn't correct it at the Turbo flange.
 
Heres a link to the regulator on summits page. Im not sure that you would need it. The reason that i link to it is because many of their products have downloadable picture loaded pdfs of their products, and i find that they can be really helpful when trying to get ideas of how to make something.
edit doh forgot link losing my mind Holley 512-505 - Holley Adjustable Fuel Injection Regulators - summitracing.com
 
If your going to do a fpr like the holley get the one I have its a boost compensating one (aeromotive 13109) New are only 135 shipped I find them around 70 bucks though.
 
its looking sweet man not bad welds for being mig... your making good progress.. i forgot, do you have an aem ems? if not, what are you doing for management?
 
Discussion starter · #474 ·
its looking sweet man not bad welds for being mig... your making good progress.. i forgot, do you have an aem ems? if not, what are you doing for management?
Thanks, no EMS at this time the end goal will be to get our ECU to support boost.
 
You'll have to recondition the MAP sensor to accomodate boost. The stock Honda sensors are only designed to output 0-5V over vacuum to I think half a bar or so.
Also, I would caution AGAINST using a rising rate fuel pressure regulator to add fuel under boost. Buy the largest injectors you can get your car to idle with and let the ECU manage the fuel delivery. It'll be much more reliable and safer for your boosted motor. Just my $0.02.
Beyond that, the manifolds look stout to say the least. Please just make sure you clean them out on the inside before attaching the turbos!!!!!
Good luck with the rest of the project!
 
Discussion starter · #477 ·
Thanks Kho :), and I do agree regarding the rising rate FPR which is why I will not be going this direction I would prefer to go with something that has its finger on teh pulse. and will do!

DeeandDee, I have not weighed them yet but they're not light in the header world due to how thick they are, but as Khow said they are stout :) I will probably clean them up a bit before weighing them.
 
You'll have to recondition the MAP sensor to accomodate boost. The stock Honda sensors are only designed to output 0-5V over vacuum to I think half a bar or so.
Also, I would caution AGAINST using a rising rate fuel pressure regulator to add fuel under boost. Buy the largest injectors you can get your car to idle with and let the ECU manage the fuel delivery. It'll be much more reliable and safer for your boosted motor. Just my $0.02.
Beyond that, the manifolds look stout to say the least. Please just make sure you clean them out on the inside before attaching the turbos!!!!!
Good luck with the rest of the project!
Will he need a low fuel pressure cut off switch or can he get away without one with block forged internals and relatively low boost?
 
Discussion starter · #479 ·
^ were diving into ECU speculation territory here but I will touch on it for now then come back when the time is ready. Brace yourself here comes some theory. As the car reaches an area of boost that yields a higher demand than what normal (for this build under daily circumstances require, basically at WOT) I will have it switch maps to one that is better laid out for higher demands of fuel based then as it returns back to normal (build specific driving) it will switch back to the primary maps, all hopefully via a vacuum switch that I have set aside. Now I now the ECU can make the instant switch, what I don't yet know is whether I am going to have to use something like "the missing link", or whatever, to get the ECU to be content with the additional psi. But again I will gain a better understanding with real live conditions after the car is fired up which is still far from now.
 
^Your ECU is designed to deliver fuel based on your manifold pressure and RPM. If you're at anything above atmospheric pressure, regardless of your RPM or throttle, your fuel curve will be able to deliver enough fuel (assuming it's tuned properly), no vacuum switching required. Essentially your fuel delivery will be based on different portions of the map as needed based on current conditions.
^^The fuel pressure switch is really only a crutch. Assuming a reliable fuel system (pump, fuel lines, filter, etc...), a qualified installation (nothing is going to leak, melt, or fatigue), and a good program in the ECU, fuel pressure should be VERY linear and consistant.
 
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