I too am going with air getting in from somewhere coupled with the fact that I am running it rich as a safety measure for situations such as this till I get the kinks out . So you combine renegade air getting sucked in and added fuel you have a situation that mimics the throttle plate opening.

 

I swapped out the air boost controller no luck

Here is another video from the engine bay side I have to kill it at 5k RPM's because I am afraid she just won't stop


Sorry for the shakiness engine hoists don't make good tripods (I had to hang it lol)

 

telion you are so close keep it up.

 

LMAO yeah but I am going to need to slow down and revisit a few things before I actually drive it going to fast makes you forget parts like this (Yes the whole freaking pipe lol

I am pretty sure that is what is causing the problem.

 

its ok.. i bet even bill gates/ steve jobs (choose your poison) uses a tip calculator sometimes.

you've come so far. and knew that it would be half build. half troubleshoot and half tune

such a big build it consists of 150%

 

Thank you! that means alot. It is also the type of reply that allows me to be comfortable with posting my errors as I go, even ones as stupid as that lol.

 

On a positive note I am happy with the sound of the exhaust not too deep and not rasly at all but you would really need a good set of speakers to hear it.

 

hey this is glass half full. at least its not something insane you need to fab! just a reinstall. one time i left the coolant bleeder open on a t1 w/bhg and went for a drive, it happens

 

Just listened to the last vid with a set of headphones; the exhaust sounds so good (to me), and the unintentional background music was so fitting. I had to replay it several times. I have issues lol.

 

Ok were not quite there yet but at least now she will give me some time to work with her before having to shut her down; I dare say she idles though a bit offish in terms of timing, AFR and fuel pressure from the regulator.


Solution a simple block off plate for the EGR pipe since it has likely been clogged for a few years anyway it was just dead weight.

I will give my neighbors a break for the night and get some electrical work done and adjust the shocks.

 

She sounds a little unhappy but I agree, it's a great sounding motor!

Good progress Telion! Keep it up!

 

Thank you too, Reboticon Oh no lol lmao, I could only imagine though that fear plays through my head every time I am on the freeway with a CF hood. Admittedly I should check out that thread more.

 

actually, that i posted in the lounge in a thread titled "tales of my stupidity part 1":rofl:

It was shut and latched just not bolted down so it happened as i was slowing down. the hood just went vertical, staying latched, then the latch released and woosh!

So whats left to do now, just the tuning? I mean thats a huge huge step, but is everything else together and fixed or are there still other bugs left?

 

IT'S ALIVE!!!

Good work man, can't wait to hear those turbos spool up.

You mentioned adjusting your shocks, did you get those D2's already?

 

so is it running now? What was the throttle problem?

My bet is the EACV.

good work

 

NICE... 72 pages ?? never mind I have my setup showing 40 posts per page.. so whats the next steps..

 

The next step will be working out the kinks, getting everything to function properly, getting the gauges all hooked up so I can read realtime what she is doing (mostly done) and then tuning from there. That's the agenda anyway. Right now I just wanna get it where I can safely rev through the powerband and feel good about her idling for a few moments. The throttle problem is on prev. page. Almost forgot I am working through this in stages so the Walbro is not hooked up yet that will likely be next, and I gotta get the 450cc injectors ultrasonic cleaned and tested so they are not in and I will install the Phantom grip in the next engine pull. But I am very far from being done. This was just a step to keep me motivated, and be able to pull it in and out of the garage to shift cars around so I can get a few things fixed on the daily drivers.



Dank$oilder I did get the D2's but I can't really give a review on them yet except to say that they come with a boot to cover the shock which I like that KSports didn't there actually is a mounting bracket for the front brakes (I liked my method more see the No Zip Tie DIY) and most of all they're purple lol. Once the car is drivable I will do a review.

Reboticon that's crazy glad to hear you are ok.

 

Here are a few more pics then I am calling it a night for my car.

Short of the power steering, the dual core oil cooler, the lights and ballasts everything is pretty much in its place.

 

That's the money shot right there....

 

How much PSI are the turbos gonna throw?

 

damn I thought about that and didn't do it I am running stock settings on my plugs and I just grabbed a set of NGK's, anyone recommend a gap setting?


Only time and tuning will tell, but my guess is enough to get the 12 psi I eventually want.

 

Hey you aren't running stock plugs are you? You probably want to go one or even two steps cooler on them. Integra/Civic guys like the plugs that came in the 92-95 civic HX for turbo builds.

 

Good call. FWIW the NGK FAQ on gapping suggests, roughly, reducing the gap 0.004" for every 50 HP gained from FI.

NGK Spark Plugs USA

 

NGK OEM PLAT # - PZFR6F-11
My recommend # - PZFR8F-9

Digit #5 references the Heat rating of the plug. 8 is two steps colder than 6

Digit after the hyphen references gap setting. 11= .044 10= .040 9= .036 etc.

 

^ too late for that, but can someone tell me why it does not decelerate as fast as it should the idle sticks and it is not the TB itself seems more like a vacuum issue.

 

yes altho your not creating boost there still is extra air being forced into your motor and the way im seeing and how you have said is telling me your blowoff valve is not opening so the extra air is just continuing to flow into your motor..

 

I still have to get it to decelerate when the TB plate is closed though. I wounder if that air way that allows for a small amount of air to cross over the TB plate needs to be restricted more. I I have the idle adjusting screw screwed all the way in too and I am still around 850 rpms at idle. I do need to bleed the air out of the coolant and fix that one damn heater hose with the pinhole.

 

You wont want any plug colder thn a 7. BKR7E is my choice.

Chris

 

When I go back out there I think I will make sure I don't have a vacuum hose that goes from the intake directly to the manifold.

 

She revs, she decelerates and she idles at 673, Killanna is almost ready to be tuned.

I also relocated the fan to the front side of the radiator but now I am going to have to go with a different tranny cooler. The current one will be up for grabs if anyone is interested.

 

Information is appreciated