Telion, I don't know if you have a fuel pressure gauge that reads where you can see it easily. But if your getting a solid seal in the fuel system, click the ignition to position two (primes fuel pump) and watch the gauge, it should NOT drop or move until it cycles again. The pressure should stay at 45psi (or whatever yours is set at) until the next cycle. If it is slowly dropping be sure to check your fuel fittings (I don't know if you have much custom lines but for me I had one loose fitting right at the AFPR and would drop 5psi and didn't notice it for awhile).

Hope that helps a little. I wish I had the dsm injectors to help you but I went with PTE injectors. By KY jelly does wonders

 

LMAO i was also thinking that maybe it might be the injectors because when you just finished building the car you had fuel leaks on the injectors and at this point any thing worth giving it a shot.

 

Thanks for the input guys, we'll see here shortly and yeah I can easily view the FPR gauge dropping remember it's the Aeromotive FPR as in the pick (had to lol)oke:

I will be trying to fire it up again in about an hour or so.

 

Is that fpr vacuum controlled? what kind of readings do you get if you disconnect vacuum and free rev it?

 

Hell I don't know now I can't even get it to start. I don't think my injectors are getting power, this also happened last time. So I will worry about it either tomorrow or over the weekend. Somewhere on here is the type of Aeromotive that it is I can look. Sorry just frustrated for the moment.

 

It's this one
Google Image Result for http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/norm/aei-13105_m.jpg

Brand: Aeromotive
Product Line: Aeromotive Compact EFI Fuel Regulators
Part Type: Fuel Pressure Regulators
Part Number: AEI-13105
Fuel: Gasoline/Alcohol
Pressure Range (psi): 30-70
Regulator Style: Return
Regulator Location: Inline
Boost/Vacuum Reference Port: Yes
Boost/Vacuum Rise Ratio: 1:1
Gauge Port: Yes
Mounting Bracket Included: Yes
Fittings Included: Yes
Rebuildable: Yes
Inlet Quantity: Single
Inlet Attachment: Male threads
Inlet Size: -6 AN
Outlet Quantity: Single
Outlet Attachment: Male threads
Outlet Size: -6 AN
Return Fitting Size: -6 AN
Regulator Material: Aluminum
Regulator Finish: Red anodized
Quantity: Sold individually.

Fuel Pressure Regulator, 30-70 psi, Red and Black Anodized, Universal, Each

* Check to make sure this part fits your application

Small regulators, huge performance.
These compact EFI regulators from Aeromotive are designed for applications producing up to 1,000 hp, where space is at a premium. Their compact design fits small engine compartments while providing big performance. They're ideal for EFI systems where only one inlet is needed.

 

Telion I have had success with my aeromotive. Its this one Aeromotive A1000-6 Injected Bypass Regulator - JEGS

It can be had for about 70 used.

 

Looks like the regulator is not hooked up right? Pressure should rise with boost not fall?

 

Thanks for the input I will have to continue working through this the FPR is hooked up correctly, there is an in, an out and a vacuum line, kinda hard to get wrong .

The vacuum system is total magic to me but perhaps you have it hooked up to a line applying pressure in the wrong direction?

Keep it up - you'll find it!

 

Thanks for the input I will have to continue working through this the FPR is hooked up correctly, there is an in, an out and a vacuum line, kinda hard to get wrong .

 

Wow that engine bay looooks sharp. Good Luck ironing out the kinks.

 

Still can't get it to start, I have swapped out the main relay, the resistor and the fuel pump

Here is where I am at, I get fuel pressure (I can feel the system pressurize) I have power going to the injectors but I don't think they are opening. I checked spark at the coils and I am getting spark. I want to rule out fuel because I have driven it with the same fuel. The only thing I can think of is that there is a wire that controls the injector pulse. Does anyone know which wire from the ECU controls the injector pulse I was thinking that the wires I was under the impression that the A25 and A7 wires off the ECU are the power wires for the injectors and wires A1 - A6 control the pulsation at which they open.

I have also swapped out the ECU and bypassed the FIC and that didn't work
Checked the crank angle sensor wiring at that is fine. I will try swapping out the injectors again to see if for some reason they (though they worked till I pulled them) are the issue.

 

A7 supplies signal to the main relay for the fuel Pump
A25 is the switched 12V in for the ECU from the main relay.
A1-A6 Are the injector (-) pulse signals

The injectors get their power from the main relay at the same source as the ECU, the 12v source passes thru the injector resistor before reaching the injectors. I would check the Injector Resistor and the crank/Cyl sensor. Most likely if you have no injector pulse but have power then the Crank/Cyl sensor is probably the culprit.

Here is the schematic of the injector wiring:
Acura Legend Online Service Manual (Page: 0173)

And the Flow chart to check the Crank/Cyl sensor:
Acura Legend Online Service Manual (Page: 0207)

 

Those are the correct pins. Did you hook up a Noid light to see if the injectors were firing? How bout taking a can of starter fluid and spraying it in the intake to see if that will start the car? You can use the 3.5 RL injectors by eliminating the injector resistor and splicing all 7 wires that go to it together.

 

I think I figured it out, you won't believe how stupid this was. For now I will say I don't know how it ever even started with this oversight lol. Oh man this had me pissed.

 

Was it the fuel pump fuse? LOL

 

Ok here it is. I knew it was a fuel issue , but it was one like I had never encountered before. How could the system be getting fuel but not getting fuel I knew it was not anything in the system because it was all new. Then last night I was watching a variety of videos of people with the same Aeromotive FPR with gauges and all of there's would pressurize at the ignition II or pre-start position. So why didn't mine do this. Curious about this and how one of you guys mentioned this I firgured I would find out why and for go my mission to figure out why the injectors were not opening. So I ny passed everything in the fuel line so it went straight into the FPR and then to the return line. I turned the ignition and all be damned lol my gauge showed pressure too. But what was blocking my fuel line at the rails?

Well you would have to be familiar with the RL's rails to have been able to helped me. Anyway, I went through everything troubleshoot wise I damn near have it memorized. I seperated the passenger side rail fuel leaked out "ok that's normal" went to the driver side and everything was bone dry. I thought WTF, then proceeded. Once it was all apart I looked at the flow of the system and well you see the hole where the banjo goes and feeds the injectors.

I added that a couple hours ago. Drilled the hole put everything back together with the 40% fuel cut chip and the 450cc injectors and she fired right up and held pressure

The fuel line went straight to nothing and there must have been enough vacuum in the system to suck teh fuel from the return line somehow :dunno:

 

UNREAL.

my favorite part... (and now it starts right up)

 

doh I hate headaches like that. All that matters is you got it running again!

 

Damn, isn't that a :nutkick:

 

Well were not out of the woods yet I heard a little pop when I was putting the main relay in. didn't sound like the main relay but now the car wont stay on unless I hold the gas down a bit and it is throwing codes 14 Electronic Idle Control Module and Right Oxygen Sensor Heater (42 likely because now it is running super rich unlike my last post) what gives.

 

Well were not out of the woods yet I heard a little pop when I was putting the main relay in.

Dude, you're supposed to disconnect the battery when you do that stuff. hehe.

Are you off tomorrow? I'm going to hit up the junkyard by your house.

 

Didn't you bypass the EACV? i would thnk that would cause the code 14?

 

No that was the air boost controller that I bypassed but is it possible that I am flooding it with having the regulator at the end of teh setup just before it goes back into the return line?

 

hmm that would explain your problems, though I have not ever heard of it before. Thats where it would be on a 4cylinder, connected to the return line at the end of the rail. I would throw on the stock regulator since that should be pretty easy (but a little messy) and try to rule it out that way.

 

After looking at the stock (Type I and Type II) setup it is the same fuel in> fuel filter> into the rail on the passenger side> exits on the drivers side> to the regulator> into the return line.

 

Ok Vic came over for a bit and we went through various setups with the 450 injectors with the stock injectors, even verified the functionality of the main relay on my wife's car and it still will not start it did give one put of a putter but that was it. Is it possible for it to start with the timing off and then not start anymore? I am pretty sure it is on but I am running out of potential issues.

 

Ok I can get it to fire up for a few seconds if use starter fluid so it could also be contaminated fuel. But it still baffles me that it would start fine before any ideas on this. Also I am suspect that there is a need to hold the key in the start position for it to stay on, could that be the ignition switch or an ignition relay? I am looking for answers so please chime in.

 

The procedure to check the ignition switch is in the online service manual. Do you get dash lights when you turn to the IG2 position, if you don't it sounds like an ignition switch issue?
Acura Legend Online Service Manual (Page: 1019)

Holding the key to the start position to keep it running could be a main relay problem too, since the power to the fuel pump is supplied differently in the two key positions. If I understand correctly you've already swapped the main relay with a working one though ...

 

My bet is on IGINITION and also aren't you grozoping the pressure plate by leaving it in the starting position, aren't you getting that grinding? , think about this, the more fuel you use, (assuming it gums up with a thicker viscosity) the more pressure you lose, therefore less flow and more compensation from fuel pump, but I could just be crazy.., why don't you just put NEW gas in the car, your going to have to do it anyway for proper tuning