When you say you still get a knock sensor CEL with the turbos disconnected, how are you disconnecting them on the exhaust side?

 

only thing that would cause a knock sensor to fail is disconnected wiring or a broken knock sensor...

I broke mine before:lol:double check it...it may not look broken, but it could be...

 

And if you need a knock sensor, I think I have like 7 laying around.

 

You just pulled the heads a week or two ago, chances are you cracked the brittle connector.

 

do they throw codes with broken connectors? mine was broken- tab on wire not actual sensor, and i just let it be. never threw a code. (was on my 92 not my current 95 thats acting weird). Reversion could cause a knock code I think, thats why I asked how you disconnected them on the exhaust side.

 

The plastic connector on the sensor gets brittle and will crack or break off the sensor very easily. I would assume even a crack that allows the electrical connection to break would cause problems. When I took mine out, I paid extra attention to them and still broke one.

 

Yeah I am leaning toward the broken, disconnected, or cracked myself. I just hate pulling off the top half of the motor without doing something additional. As for the disconnected turbos I removed the intake pipe that goes to the TB so they vent to free air. It's back on now though I can't stop lol.

 

what is ironic is that i bought a knock sensor from you telion just a few monthes back?

 

lol that's right, I am going to need that back now sorry can you overnight it back to me j/k.
I have another one thank goodness.

PS thanks Mike and don't sell my quarter panel I will still need it before long.

 

So on my way home from work I am driving my car knowing that I have to take it down tonight because I just sold the cams that are in it and to fix the knock sensor and a few other small things, so I am pushing her a bit "gotta get my fix you know." So anyway its a long open road not really any cars and I punch it (not speeding I was going slow at first) and right around 7-8 psi I here a loud boom. Immediately I thought shit that's not good and looked in the rear view hoping to not see any large car parts. Well I did in fact see something, it was the lower portion of the intake pipe, I blew that bitch right off the car and ran it over l was on the phone with another forum member and broke out into laughter as I told him I had to call him back because I gotta turn around and go get my intake pipe. I laughed the whole way home, oh the pains and joys of a boosted car, and I am not even getting started yet.

 

ahaha nice, things like that are funny when its not going to be a huge pain. Seeing part of your oil pan would have been a lot less funny, i mean I got a kick out of losing my CRXs windshield this week but no one else seemed to think it was near as funny

 

Well I can confirm that if you run your car with a knock sensor off it will throw a CEL and it will throw it in what I am calling a system sweep that happens around 2500 RPMS this is also when the engine checks for the EGR to activate, of all the places to not plug something in I would say this has to rank amongst the worst. Remember this the next time you are doing a wide variety of things on the engine at once.

 

Well I can confirm that if you run your car with a knock sensor off it will throw a CEL and it will throw it in what I am calling a system sweep that happens around 2500 RPMS this is also when the engine checks for the EGR to activate, of all the places to not plug something in I would say this has to rank amongst the worst. Remember this the next time you are doing a wide variety of things on the engine at once.

stupid question but, what are the negative effects of running a car with a disconnected knock sensor besides it wont detect knock and you get a CEL?:hide:

 

Seems as though my problem has compounded I broke off a couple of those small screws that hold the cam valvetrain off in each of the heads . Time to switch over to the TII heads I guess, a little sooner than expected and it will keep the car down much longer than expected . are those MLS gaskets done yet?

 

Dang.. what where you doing?

 

taking out the cams I just sold you, then cursing you out loud j/k but that is what I was doing. the bolts that have the lighter color head seem to be weaker than the black ones.

 

yea that's why its nice to have a small torque wrench

 

its only because my name is easy to say :lol:
So ur going to use the RL cams in the type II heads?

 

Well no after further thought I decided I am going to pull the heads have the bolts removed from someone qualified to do it and at the same time have them fit the TII valves to the RL heads. I am afraid if the geometry of the setup changes at all it could cause more rewelding and downtime and I just can't take anymore of it.

 

Yup! that's the way to go... oh u had type II springs on the RL valve? I see your sig says type II web cams where are those?

 

My bad those were also sold lol. Now someone tell me how to remove these screws from my heads.

 

Just drill the broken bolts out. Use a 7/64th in drill bit to drill pilot holes in them and then use a screw extractor. Then retap the holes with a m6x1.00 tap. For the record the outer most bolts on either side of the cam are the ones that are darker.

I got two questions for you about one of my own projects..

Where did you mount the 02 sensors in your car?

Are you using a separate sensor for A/F gauge or running off of 02? If using separate sensor, where did you put it?

 

I may try that first since ultimately the heads have to come out anyway I feel like a hit a money pit every time I think of what to do. If I swap in the TII engine temporarily while the head work is getting done I have to pray it all lines up and still gotta buy one head gasket and a front passenger engine mount. If I swap in the TII heads I have to make the same prayer and get the intake and water passage rewelded. If I pull the heads and repair them I still have to buy the one mount and take it to someone to remove the screws if I can't get them out.

I am leaning toward putting the TII motor in, sticking the 3.5 on a stand and getting everything that I need done completed over a couple of weeks or so then swapping it back out even though I think I should just be patient and have the guy that extracts the screws fit the TII valves what are your opinions?

 

I may try that first since ultimately the heads have to come out anyway I feel like a hit a money pit every time I think of what to do. If I swap in the TII engine temporarily while the head work is getting done I have to pray it all lines up and still gotta buy one head gasket and a front passenger engine mount. If I swap in the TII heads I have to make the same prayer and get the intake and water passage rewelded. If I pull the heads and repair them I still have to buy the one mount and take it to someone to remove the screws if I can't get them out.

I am leaning toward putting the TII motor in, sticking the 3.5 on a stand and getting everything that I need done completed over a couple of weeks or so then swapping it back out even though I think I should just be patient and have the guy that extracts the screws fit the TII valves what are your opinions?

Take it to the machine shop for the valve job and ask them to remove it.

 

Damn.. while i was away telion got the car running...kool:thumbsup:

I'm gonna have to go to one of those meets just to see the 2wice turbo in person.:yes:

 

Telion, its hard to keep the faith, but do whatever will save you the most money (time is also money)

 

Yeah she ran for a couple days, the downside to the knock sensor being disconnected is that once it catches it and throws a CEL it runs normal at about 1/3 or less throttle but once you cross the 1/2 throttle point it pins the AFR at 9.6 which is not very helpful being that I wanna run my AFR in the mid 12 range. The car would run really boggy and then if I tried to boost it again the car would do more to counter it and make it so it would barely run as another counter measure of course you could shut it off and turn it right back on and it would be fine till it caught it again. Now knowing this I never thew a knock sensor for the other side so once she is back together she is running. I am just tired of these cheap ass bolts. I got the heads off so I can take the weekend to work on projects for other people and I will drop them off at the machine shop on Monday.

 

I don't think the exhaust piping will work with the Type II in. Remember the deck height is taller on the C35.

 

yeah if you are going to the machine shop anyway, i would definitely let them deal with the broken bolts. They have to be perfectly lined up or it junks the whole head.

swapping the valves is easy as hell on the legend motors b/c the valves arent BURIED like on a GSR or vtec head. Just need a standard valve spring compressor.

What side head gasket will you need? I have a still sealed and shrinkwrapped felpro passenger side.. It costs 60-80$ but if its the side you need ill trade it to you for a blank chip for an ECU (for my crx)