Thanks there will be videos through the tuning process and when it is done. compression ratio is a little higher than 9.6:1 (had heads resurfaced not too long ago.) stock head studs though I want some ARP's or the ones that Alperovich was trying to get worked out for us but for now till proven otherwise stock will work.

 

Indeed I do I took tomorrow off to get the car back together and see what type of tuning I can get done before then but if you can get your car back on the bottle and I can get mine to where she has some decent launching ability then people can see a TT vs a 75 shot of NOS.

 

Yeah im defiantly down for that i'm sure i'm gonna get my butt handed to me, but it will be fun

 

Ah we don't know that yet I will be putting it back together today.

hey, i was wondering what kit did you use?

I am answering a PM here because I think I sorta skimmed past this until now
Well there is not actually a kit for my our cars and alot of what you see is individually pieced.

-The radiator hose was one really long piece that I purchased at a killer deal of 20.00 for about 8 feet so I cut it and made the upper and lower hoses.

-The hose coming off the radiator to that is braided and then connected to a rubber hose was a piece of scrap they let me have (always ask for a price after they know you are buying stuff)

-The vacuum lines were from nolimitsmotorsports an Ebay seller
-The turbo upper turbo lines are from a local shop as well
-Lower lines were off Ebay just found the size I needed
-Power steering line was another scrap deal from a local shop

The majority of the AN connectors were from Jegs.

And on a side note I would recommend treadstoneperformance for silicone couplers, they have a great price a good quality product and combine their shipping. I don't get a kickback or anything I was just very satisfied. But if you are going to run over 20 psi I would recommend stepping up to HPS couplers.

 

What Valve springs are you using? Not to scare you or anything but heres a pic of one of my B16 heads that was run under boost with weak stock springs..

Ignore the big red painted circle. I did that to explain what quench zone was.

 

It's a squish zone. And dont try telling me squish and quench can both be used as the correct term. BOLLOCKS. Quench refers to a part of the combustion chamber which doesn't burn.Quench is very bad. Squish is very good.

Chris

 

uhmm maybe its an American/Austrailian thing, because I have 3 books on Honda engines sitting right here that ALL refer to the slant as a quench zone. Yes, they work by "squishing" the charge to the center of the chamber, but ive never seen/heard them called squish zones here..

 

I have the stock RL cams back in with the stronger TII cam springs so I think I will be good in that department. All the valves looked pretty good after inspecting them from pulling the heads.

 

Good job

Congraturation. Telion.
You made it..

 

Ok I got the car back together last night and she fires up fine there's only one issue and it is one that I am not very happy with she is throwing a code 16 which is for the fuel injector. I think I am going to start a different thread with this issue and then I will just post the end result and whom ever helped me identify it back in this thread so it is not too long.

 

Ok code16 was easily confused for a code10 and a code6 until I unhooked my MAP connection from the ECU and it through a code 3 in the mix. Long story short fixed the color coding on the wire to the Intake Temp Sensor and ran it to the correct places and issue solved 8 hours of stress 1 hour fix. In the meantime I somehow lost my alternators ability to charge the battery so that will be the next thing to work on.

 

Ok code16 was easily confused for a code10 and a code6 until I unhooked my MAP connection from the ECU and it through a code 3 in the mix.

One more strike against the CEL code reading.

....----....----..---..----..--???:wtf:

Reading morse code sucks. I loved when I pulled into Autozone and they gave me their scanner, "REAR SPEED SENSOR!!" scan free, part $35.99 done :thumbsup:

 

I know whats wrong

You forgot to hook up the one wire on the back of the alternator when you removed the heads you remove it. I know I did it to ha.

 

I know whats wrong

You forgot to hook up the one wire on the back of the alternator when you removed the heads you remove it. I know I did it to ha.

I wish it were that simple but I actually re-routed all that stuff and don't need to remove any wires to pull my heads. I checked the fuses and the relays all are fine. Can it go bad by leaking some oil on it?

 

Glad to here all the codes was fixed and it runs again to bad we are going to tear it down this weekend when I hand deliver some new HG!!!

 

Indeed (potentially) baring my schedule.

Sorry I had not been on much lately something had come up unexpectedly so the little time that I do have to keep this thread updated had been dedicated to a family related situation which I would rather not have as a part of this thread at this time, please respect that I will start another thread regarding that in the lounge area. Please respond to this in the thread in the link and not this thread, thank you http://www.acura-legend.com/vbulletin/f9/prayers-condolences-138722/#post1485969

But there are some important updates that need to be known. The intake air temperature (result of code10) did burnout. Now I am not sure if it was heat induced or not so I want to be sure to get that in here because ignorantly I had assumed for hours of diagnosis that it had to be a wiring issue on my part. In a while I will grab another one and see if I burn that one up too to confirm it. So in the meantime I pulled the IAT from the RL and hooked it up out side of the intake manifold till I find a suitable place to relocate it to if need be, works fine this way it just doesn't draw accurate data. So how does this affect the car? Yes but the manual doesn't say exactly how.

 

Thats crazy. Like you, I had no idea that the TA sensors could actually burn out. A lot of people who build Honda mini-me vtecs use the D16y8 intake manifold which doesnt have a provision for the TA sensor. So they just leave it hanging in the engine compartment. I tried it like that for a while but it bugged me so I used the intake from the previous gen which has a provision for the TA.

 

Lol, Mine is just tucked behind the driver cam gear for now. I think I may have flooded it though checking for CEL's because I can't get it to turn over now. In the back of my mind though I swear there is a short in the wiring harness somewhere.

 

If you think the actual air temperature is actually damaging the IAT sensor, there is always the water/meth injection kit. Install that and have the mister right after the intercooler and you'll be lowering IAT quite a bit. Also, how hot is it getting in the engine bay? If you want some ventilation on the cheap, here is a little mod the S2000 guys sometimes do for ~$50.

S2000 Forums -> DIY: Vented Aluminum Hood

I don't think we have any agreeable shapes on the inside of our hood, but just an idea.

 

Two excellent ideas I may try it, it will be scary though. As for engine bay temps it seemed to actually get hotter with the OBX headers. Everything I used was pretty stout and weighty.

 

I wouldn't suggest trying those vents on a carbon fiber hood. The edges will be all fiberous and there won't be a way to smooth them out. Don't you still have that vent from the junkyard last time?

 

No way the air temp is actually burning out the TA. Way more likely that it burnt out from the alternator fiasco. The exhaust valves would be toast if it was getting hot enough air to burn out one of those things.

 

Possibly, I don't know. But the current issue possibly related is that it won't start again I get spark (yet to check all the plugs, they could be fouled) did verify spark, and swapped out the main relay to be on the safe side.

 

Ok for a while now I have wondered if you can flood a Legend, turns out you can. That and the amount of carbon soot that built up on them prevented it from firing so I swapped in the RL plugs that I bought on accident and am running (yes running) those till the NGK Iridium BKR7EIX-11 come in. None the less she starts, she runs, but there is still some issue with her. When each of the 3, 5, and 24? vacuum lines are connected on the back of the intake manifold she wants to stall out like shes getting too much gas if I disconnect one (the #24 hose since I am not using it) it runs much better, what gives?

 

T, have you seen page 259 on the pdf helms? 1 and 3 seems working side by side. so possible faulty solenoid valve?

also, you mention that the car seems like it was gonna stall from too much gas...check out 11-144(page 300).

 

Thanks, I think we are close to being on the same page, but I cannot see the page#'s just the sections such as (11-144) because I have the PDF Helms. Could you also clarify 1 and 3, I think you are referring to vacuum lines but I am not sure.

I am thinking that until I get a little clarification I am going to tie hose #24 to hose #14 (clean air) to see what that does. Also I don't see it as a coincidence that the bogging is around the same RPM's as the low bypass solenoid is expected to open so I will put the check valve back on hose #4 just before it enters the vacuum chamber.

 

im using the pdf helm also. if you look around you will see something like "300 of 1371" (which is 11-145)

but anyways...yes i am refering to vaccuum lines 1&3. check 11-104. im gonna look at it little bit more and let you know if i see anything. let me know on your side too.

 

Ok I made the above mentioned changes and still get a little hesitation around 3300 RPM's. I can't push it right now though because I am running a set of plugs 1 stage hotter than stock. I won't get a chance to dig into it today though. On a side note even with the existing issue and the fact that I am running plugs 2 stages hotter than recommended I think it ran stronger with the TII reground cams, so I will be in for a set of those in the future some time.

Right now it is still running really rich which is odd. I am running the Walbro and stock injectors with the Aeromotive FPR, with the SAFC correction off, on a stock chip. So I am curious as to why it is running so rich still. If you have ideas chime in.

 

Ok I made the above mentioned changes and still get a little hesitation around 3300 RPM's. I can't push it right now though because I am running a set of plugs 1 stage hotter than stock. I won't get a chance to dig into it today though. On a side note even with the existing issue and the fact that I am running plugs 2 stages hotter than recommended I think it ran stronger with the TII reground cams, so I will be in for a set of those in the future some time.

Right now it is still running really rich which is odd. I am running the Walbro and stock injectors with the Aeromotive FPR, with the SAFC correction off, on a stock chip. So I am curious as to why it is running so rich still. If you have ideas chime in.

I have nothing offer except to say that perhaps its time you invested in a decent aftermarket ecu.And an investment it surely is.

We would not have got to where we are without the Autronic.

Chris

 

ok i just realized ive been mixing around between LHD and RHD. sorry about that.

vaccuum 3 is for the bypass low diaphram and 1 is for the FPR...correct? just wanna make sure were on the same page

 

I know Chris but hang in there I haven't even gotten to the AEM F/IC yet and it deserves a chance if it is on a 900whp 91' NSX. I just wanna work out as many bugs as I can before I hit the dyno.

Johnny Kim good deal I was wondering and knew it could not have been the FPR vacuum so yeah we are back on the same page. I took some wideband readings so I will see what that tells me.

 

T, hit me up on aim.