[Telion]

Bringing you another Telion original lol. I took my TI vacuum tank and used it as a replacement TII vacuum tank since it needed to be relocated. I could only imagine that thing sitting just below the passenger turbo. I also now seriously wonder why Honda didn't put the high and low by bypass solenoids on the firewall closer to the original location of intake manifold man that simplified the amount of hose necessary.

 

[Dv8]

--- a little help real fast ---

Ok I have a question well two actually. The Air boost control valve and the air inlet pipe what should I do with them?

ditch it all.

~Dv8

 

[Telion]

Ok air boost control I can see that, block off the breather inlet doable, should I ditch the vacuum tank and the charcoal canister too?:dunno:

 

[Dv8]

Ok air boost control I can see that, block off the breather inlet doable, should I ditch the vacuum tank and the charcoal canister too?:dunno:

yes.
The only thing you really need are the VIS solenoids & tank if you run VIS, otherwise all that other air injection emission crap is nothing more than paper weights. I ditched all that stuff years ago, including VIS. It's a hinderance especially if your F/I.
Since your TT, I highly doubt emission compliance is of any concerns to you.

~Dv8

 

[Telion]

Thanks , emissions is and is not a concern meaning that I want to be able to swap a few parts and make it emissions compliant (on an as needed basis). Since the charcoal canister is in place I guess I will leave it; its just a couple pounds. I gutted the air boost controller and have ported the spring side of the BOV to it since it is now a OEM looking manifold inlet. I will make a Block off plate where the EACV goes (said EGR my bad sorry fixed it).

Do you think since I am running an F/IC that I should keep the EACV since it is only designed to assist the car in idling and when it is cold?

 

[Artillery129]

I think you should keep it, pull it out and your rpms are going to be real low in the cold and it will take forever for the car to heat up, it takes like 10 minutes as is, don't make it worst, on the other hand turbos should help it heat up faster...

 

[Telion]

Ok provided I was able to decipher the installation manuals that appear to have been written by kids in elementary school I think I have all the vacuum lines and hoses figured out.

 

[Guest]

From post 921 till now I just got all sorts of confused on what you changed and moved. I guess I should learn some technically terms and try to picture where everything is located haha.

Looking good thought Telion

 

[Telion]

Ok I took today off to finish up some side projects and get back to a point where I was no longer feeling as though my car was owning me and was able to redesign the passenger wastegate while she was all buttoned down, damn puzzle.

 

[l4zy415]

That look so much better now, good job :thumbsup:.

 

[Telion]

Thanks and I could not agree more, the previous way looked like something had gone terribly wrong, and it had lol. I will possibly grind all the visible parts down a little before they go on for testing

 

[l4zy415]

Great, get it on vid!!!!

 

[Telion]

Great, get it on vid!!!!

lol still a ways away from that point.

 

[Vic Cardenas]

Thursday again?

 

[Telion]

yeah but this time I will have to drop it off to you Wednesday night it is fool proof this time

On another note you have to celebrate small successes so here is the pic of the block off plate for the air inlet pipe.

"mental thought" (I need to find those pics of Buzzard's engine's as a reference point)

 

[reboticon]

Keep the eacv.

Why is it ok to eliminate the vacuum chamber? Because of all the aftermarket tuning stuff you do/have? Emissions yeah yank that stuff but wont the vac chamber be needed so the MAP sensor doesn't get confused, or does your tuning stuff bypass that problem?

 

[Dv8]

Thanks , emissions is and is not a concern meaning that I want to be able to swap a few parts and make it emissions compliant (on an as needed basis). Since the charcoal canister is in place I guess I will leave it; its just a couple pounds. I gutted the air boost controller and have ported the spring side of the BOV to it since it is now a OEM looking manifold inlet. I will make a Block off plate where the EACV goes (said EGR my bad sorry fixed it).

Do you think since I am running an F/IC that I should keep the EACV since it is only designed to assist the car in idling and when it is cold?

yes you keep the eacv and the fast idle valve. air boost has been deleted along with all of the air suction(Type 1) because Im using the RL neck. The eacv and fast idle are both moved up front on the RL neck for me. everything else is gone. This makes everything much cleaner. If you dont switch out to an RL neck, i would just keep the air boost, I dont know how the FIC will handle. Im asuming you may have issues because its a piggyback, maybe not. Youll have to get with Matt on that.

All the charcoal canister and purge control solenoid are for is to cut down on emissions. remove and its one less headache. If you know how the EGR works than all other emissions related systems are the same way. disable them and the engine gets closer to just being an engine. The VIS canister vacuum tanks are different. (Type 1 have two tanks) VIS is there to increase lowend transitioning to mid and top, therefore if you want VIS you want to keep that tank(s). Although I eliminated it a long time ago when I went Type 2, VIS still worked for me at the time, probably works better if the canister's present for obvious reasons, but under boost, I think the VIS is a big waste of space!

~Dv8

 

[Telion]

yes you keep the eacv and the fast idle valve. air boost has been deleted along with all of the air suction(Type 1) because Im using the RL neck. The eacv and fast idle are both moved up front on the RL neck for me. everything else is gone. This makes everything much cleaner. If you dont switch out to an RL neck, i would just keep the air boost, I dont know how the FIC will handle. Im asuming you may have issues because its a piggyback, maybe not. Youll have to get with Matt on that.

All the charcoal canister and purge control solenoid are for is to cut down on emissions. remove and its one less headache. If you know how the EGR works than all other emissions related systems are the same way. disable them and the engine gets closer to just being an engine. The VIS canister vacuum tanks are different. (Type 1 have two tanks) VIS is there to increase lowend transitioning to mid and top, therefore if you want VIS you want to keep that tank(s). Although I eliminated it a long time ago when I went Type 2, VIS still worked for me at the time, probably works better if the canister's present for obvious reasons, but under boost, I think the VIS is a big waste of space!

~Dv8

I swapped the vacuum tank out and replaced it with the (Type I) purge tank so that I can use it as a vacuum tank on the firewall. I am also leaving the fast idle valve in place since there is room for it and it would be one less headache in terms of tuning. I am going to keep the VIS for now and may decide to try with then without it. I am thinking that it will help compensate for lag (if there is any).

DV8 you do bring up a good point about the F/IC that I don't remember discussing here yet. And that is that the ECU will still control the car up to a designated set of parameters (TPS percentage, RPM and Kpa < a boost value). So once these set conditions are met it will take over. Meaning that I have to keep the ECU happy up to that point including at idle.

 

[Telion]

Keep the eacv.

Why is it ok to eliminate the vacuum chamber? Because of all the aftermarket tuning stuff you do/have? Emissions yeah yank that stuff but wont the vac chamber be needed so the MAP sensor doesn't get confused, or does your tuning stuff bypass that problem?

To clarify I didn't remove it I just relocated it and changed the type of container used. However you can remove it because it is really just a vacuum pump that will assist in opening the VIS flaps. think of it as a suction force on standby tied to each bypass valve diaphragm without it the flaps can still be sucked into the open position from the vacuum coming directly off the manifold by bypassing it and running hose #4 directly to the manifold (with the check valve) hmm I could have it backwards though, it may help to close the flaps but either way.

 

[Telion]

ok found another purpose for the SAFC NEO, I am going to use it (with a relay) to activate the water injection system. (Vic asked about a page or so back). Yeah this post was a little out in left field lol.