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Ok guys I don't blame you for not following what has been tested because this is becoming a bit drawn out really could even use a separate thread because I am certain it is unrelated to the build but this gets exposure so. . .

But I pulled the connector on the EACV on my wifes car and it started fine then a few seconds later while idling it through a CEL. Now with that same logic I put the main relay in my wifes car and tested it and it fired up fine. so now that I have your great minds up to speed what else could it be.
Get the codes cleared for the EACV - if you have a code for it there is a break somewhere in the circuit. The EACV is basically a small motor - it gets its power from the main relay and its ground signal from the ECU. The ECU varies the current applied to the motor - the more current the more it opens.

Begin by testing for battery voltage at the yel/black wire as said in my previous post. If it's there, then test for continuity between the blue/red wire and terminal A9.

This thread is completely ridiculous and totally useless. It definitely needs a moderator clean up and post merging.

-Matt
 
a legend CAN run depending on if the solenoid on the IACV is froze in the open position. This happened on another members car. He disconnected the connecter and the car ran however it ran rich, hence why the other code will throw for O2. So your solenoid is blown or the other relay IN the main relay is fried hence the pop.(two mini relays in main relay). You can jump two pins on one of the connectors for the relay to keep the pump on full time to at least run the car.

shit goes wrong on a car that sits for a while. don't sweat it.
Very true, but the idle adjustment screw on the throttle body must be out far enough to allow for enough airflow for a minimum idle. My experience with most legends has been if the EACV is disconnected with the engine running at idle the engine will stall. If the EACV is disconnected at 2000 RPM and then the throttle slowly closed, it will come to a slow idle around 4-500 rpm.

-Matt
 
Discussion starter · #1,223 ·
Yes Matt I agree not completely for the same reasons but people keep asking the same things after I explain how I nixed them as a possibility through testing and then posting how I tested it, I pointed this out and then just recently Vic pointed it out. But repetitious responses are better than none. so till I find out if I can move page 80 on to a separate thread then we will go as is. Finally she is talking to me, I recharged the battery and she is throwing a code 16 Fuel injectors. I will go through the trouble shoot for this I have a copy of the manual, I am not discouraging people from posting the DIY though because many people don't. The code 16 is new though and explanatory
 
Yes Matt I agree not completely for the same reasons but people keep asking the same things after I explain how I nixed them as a possibility through testing and then posting how I tested it, I pointed this out and then just recently Vic pointed it out. But repetitious responses are better than none. so till I find out if I can move page 80 on to a separate thread then we will go as is. Finally she is talking to me, I recharged the battery and she is throwing a code 16 Fuel injectors. I will go through the trouble shoot for this I have a copy of the manual, I am not discouraging people from posting the DIY though because many people don't. The code 16 is new though and explanatory
Your method of "testing" by swapping parts from one car to another doesn't eliminate the possibility of shorted or open wires in the harness. Stop being so damn hard headed :p, break out the VOM AND TEST THE FUCKING VOLTAGE!

-Matt

sorry ninja edited the fuck outta this one....
 
Discussion starter · #1,225 ·
Ok let's move past all this non sense and get ready for some tuning :D

Had to keep on the throttle to keep her alive but it's enough of a carrot to get me through the night. Inadvertently Matt you helped out on this. I dialed the idle adjusting screw almost as far out as I could and:boink: Let tomorrow bring on a new challenge. It is too late to do anything tonight. and the injectors well my bad when I was playing with the harness yesterday I must have not connected it all the way. And there could be something to the FIC as well because I removed it, And adjusted the NEO to -4 up through 2k. when it was at -2 it had some issues idling.
 
yes she runs but what was the problem?
 
Discussion starter · #1,228 ·
yes she runs but what was the problem?
Ok let's move past all this non sense and get ready for some tuning :D I dialed the idle adjusting screw almost as far out as I could and:boink: Let tomorrow bring on a new challenge. And there could be something to the FIC as well because I removed it, And adjusted the NEO to -4 up through 2k. when it was at -2 it had some issues idling.
Ok I don't think the NEO settings affected it starting, and I screwed the idler screw back in a bit. It could have been the FIC harness though. This weekend I will step through it till everything is correct one step (ex. add injectors back) then test fire it. Then add the wiring harness jumper for the FIC then test it. I have taken it past the point where it bogged down before. I added (per hybrid yeah he gave this temp fix advise) a one way check valve at the map sensor so it didn't see positive boost and it worked. I didn't think it would get out of vacuum so quickly but it does at about 2.5k
 
Discussion starter · #1,229 ·
The exhaust sits a little low toward the center of the car because it is not hung yet but the muffler does not look as bad as I am sure many of you thought that it would and as for the sound well she is still in very rough form but grab a nice set of head phones :D and tell me what you think?

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Still alot of work to do but to be able to actually drive it for a second and pull it out of the garage sure is relieving (sigh)
 
it still idle high when warmed up. what gives?
 
Discussion starter · #1,231 ·
Still working on that, there are a few things that actually need to be worked out, that being one of them. I am just happy that it idles. My gauge is also off for some reason had been for a while
 
Discussion starter · #1,235 ·
Telion need to ask you, how did you go from round to oval for the headers flanges port match? I am about to start the headers but I do not know if I need to take it to a muffler shop for this. tks.
I didn't because the round part was large enough to cover the outer oval area (filled a little with weld) so my exhaust plates are oval and the runners are round. However my steel was too thick to bend. What you can do though is take the part where the runner connects to the oval part of the exhaust plate and stick it in a vise and slowly tighten it till it takes on an oval shape. I would practice on scrap a few times to see how the tubing reacts based on where the seem is and if it has a seem make the seem the center of where the bend will be on the vise. This is how I did my Y-pipe and it was either 14 or 16g steel.
 
Discussion starter · #1,237 ·
Ok I got my first feel for Legend boost and oh boy was it addicting. Unfortunately she is still untuned so I cannot do it whenever off the jump because unless the AFR is just right (Yes the first time I watched the wideband in addition to the road :( ) and the rpm transition is smooth. but oh boy it truly is a pleasurable experience to feel the potential of my car. I will try to post a little vid tomorrow after I go through everything. I think it got to 5 psi a few times maybe a hair more but the EBC is not hooked up yet.
 
Discussion starter · #1,240 ·
I couldn't agree more, I can't wait for yours. And it truly re-fires the desire to keep going! You'll be there. You have come a long way on a much more difficult build.
 
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