[BLKnBLU]

The reason 11s would be difficult is FWD launches. If you get your 60 foot low enough, you WILL be able to break into 11s. Its gonna be all about initial traction and launch RPM, i believe that is what they are trying to say. Thats the reason it will be tough anyway. I , for one, think 11s is extremely possible, though low 11s may be pushing it. Even with compression in the 9s you could go higher than 10psi with race gas, so long as you get it o-ringed. I think you could run 12 or even 14psi safely with a proper tune. Ive seen a D series civic with over 9:1 compression manage 20psi for a couple dozen runs. Then it blew a hole in a cylinder.

I agree.

For a Legend its either going to be an amazing launch (1.7's or lower 60ft) or high WHP(120MPH+ ET)+ at least a 1.9 60ft.

To do either of those you need a butt load of traction and/or 450+whp and decent traction.

Fully expect to be doing 4-6k launches. The drive train must be able to handle it or it just wont happen.

Thats to get into the 11's. 11's are no joke-thats a blazing fast street car; thats what makes the GTR so special.

 

[Telion]

Sounds like this summer will be a great time to do a group buy on axles I will look into it

 

[QuickLegend]

what is your CR?
You can run water injection high CR.
Hope u put down 400 , when i first saw page 89 i was like holly shit!!!!!
Did you replace the headstuds?
Gl man don't forget to post the VIdeo when you set and done.

 

[Telion]

Thanks there will be videos through the tuning process and when it is done. compression ratio is a little higher than 9.6:1 (had heads resurfaced not too long ago.) stock head studs though I want some ARP's or the ones that Alperovich was trying to get worked out for us but for now till proven otherwise stock will work.

 

[91TYPII]

Ok Turbos are in, ran ok (ok being boosted 8 psi and pulled quite nice) without tuning but still not great, threw CEL, and would pin AFR at 9.6 at point of CEL, pulled heads found out I forgot to hook up the left knock sensor, sold reground cams broke off a few bolts in the heads, took heads to get bolts removed heads getting picked up tomorrow, stock RLL heads going back in. Some doubt setup will break into 11's. I am optimistic. Hope to have it back together by the weekend. forgot to mention that I did blow off and run over the lower intake pipe, replacement parts and better couplers on their way.

Oh yeah thank you :angel:

HAHAHA nice sum up of 89 pages T Hey man Midnight drags are on the 15th and the 29th If you wanna hit it up let me know and i might be able to join ya.

 

[Telion]

Indeed I do I took tomorrow off to get the car back together and see what type of tuning I can get done before then but if you can get your car back on the bottle and I can get mine to where she has some decent launching ability then people can see a TT vs a 75 shot of NOS.

 

[91TYPII]

Yeah im defiantly down for that i'm sure i'm gonna get my butt handed to me, but it will be fun

 

[Telion]

Ah we don't know that yet I will be putting it back together today.

hey, i was wondering what kit did you use?

I am answering a PM here because I think I sorta skimmed past this until now
Well there is not actually a kit for my our cars and alot of what you see is individually pieced.

-The radiator hose was one really long piece that I purchased at a killer deal of 20.00 for about 8 feet so I cut it and made the upper and lower hoses.

-The hose coming off the radiator to that is braided and then connected to a rubber hose was a piece of scrap they let me have (always ask for a price after they know you are buying stuff)

-The vacuum lines were from nolimitsmotorsports an Ebay seller
-The turbo upper turbo lines are from a local shop as well
-Lower lines were off Ebay just found the size I needed
-Power steering line was another scrap deal from a local shop

The majority of the AN connectors were from Jegs.

And on a side note I would recommend treadstoneperformance for silicone couplers, they have a great price a good quality product and combine their shipping. I don't get a kickback or anything I was just very satisfied. But if you are going to run over 20 psi I would recommend stepping up to HPS couplers.

 

[reboticon]

What Valve springs are you using? Not to scare you or anything but heres a pic of one of my B16 heads that was run under boost with weak stock springs..

Ignore the big red painted circle. I did that to explain what quench zone was.

 

[BUZZARD]

It's a squish zone. And dont try telling me squish and quench can both be used as the correct term. BOLLOCKS. Quench refers to a part of the combustion chamber which doesn't burn.Quench is very bad. Squish is very good.

Chris

 

[Telion]

I have the stock RL cams back in with the stronger TII cam springs so I think I will be good in that department. All the valves looked pretty good after inspecting them from pulling the heads.

 

[reboticon]

It's a squish zone. And dont try telling me squish and quench can both be used as the correct term. BOLLOCKS. Quench refers to a part of the combustion chamber which doesn't burn.Quench is very bad. Squish is very good.

Chris

uhmm maybe its an American/Austrailian thing, because I have 3 books on Honda engines sitting right here that ALL refer to the slant as a quench zone. Yes, they work by "squishing" the charge to the center of the chamber, but ive never seen/heard them called squish zones here..

 

[Phystein]

Good job

Congraturation. Telion.
You made it..

 

[Telion]

Ok I got the car back together last night and she fires up fine there's only one issue and it is one that I am not very happy with she is throwing a code 16 which is for the fuel injector. I think I am going to start a different thread with this issue and then I will just post the end result and whom ever helped me identify it back in this thread so it is not too long.

 

[Telion]

Ok code16 was easily confused for a code10 and a code6 until I unhooked my MAP connection from the ECU and it through a code 3 in the mix. Long story short fixed the color coding on the wire to the Intake Temp Sensor and ran it to the correct places and issue solved 8 hours of stress 1 hour fix. In the meantime I somehow lost my alternators ability to charge the battery so that will be the next thing to work on.

 

[Guest]

I know whats wrong

You forgot to hook up the one wire on the back of the alternator when you removed the heads you remove it. I know I did it to ha.

 

[alittlethin]

Ok code16 was easily confused for a code10 and a code6 until I unhooked my MAP connection from the ECU and it through a code 3 in the mix.

One more strike against the CEL code reading.

....----....----..---..----..--???:wtf:

Reading morse code sucks. I loved when I pulled into Autozone and they gave me their scanner, "REAR SPEED SENSOR!!" scan free, part $35.99 done :thumbsup:

 

[Telion]

I know whats wrong

You forgot to hook up the one wire on the back of the alternator when you removed the heads you remove it. I know I did it to ha.

I wish it were that simple but I actually re-routed all that stuff and don't need to remove any wires to pull my heads. I checked the fuses and the relays all are fine. Can it go bad by leaking some oil on it?

 

[reboticon]

I wish it were that simple but I actually re-routed all that stuff and don't need to remove any wires to pull my heads. I checked the fuses and the relays all are fine. Can it go bad by leaking some oil on it?

Easiest way is this.

1. Turn on car or turn key to run/start. Hook up test light and probe single wire terminal in back of alternator. Should light up. If it doesnt light up at this stage, you have an open between the battery and the alternator

2. disconnect 1 wire terminal from alternator. Start car. Hook test light to ground and probe terminal.

If test light lights in 1 but not in 2, replace alt. If lights in 2 but not 1, repair open in circuit.

 

[Dethred]

I wish it were that simple but I actually re-routed all that stuff and don't need to remove any wires to pull my heads. I checked the fuses and the relays all are fine. Can it go bad by leaking some oil on it?

How much oil? My old Mazda's alternator died from the leaky front valve cover gasket failure leaking oil into the alt.