I'm not worried and no it's not too involved for Joe. If you want I can also find out how thick the 350Z headers are at my shop too.

 

What is the flange form? What kind of steel is that and what kind of steel are the pipes?

 

All mild steel to keep things easier for the person that does it. If Joe does I will make sure each of you are taken care of

 

Interesting stuff.

 

quick question if u dont mind why didnt you use the question if you dont mind why didnt you use the 300z tt headers by the way i got these pics off ebay lol

 

Excellent question easy answer there is only one company that I recently found that will sell a set of 300 or 350z tt headers that are not cast made and the cast headers to my knowlege cannot be re-welded very well making a difficult mounting situation due to the subtle size differences.
(correction) within a reasonable price range that are worth cutting up since the turbos mounting points would also have to be re-worked.
SZ Inconel Manifolds - 90-96 300zx TT

 

oh ok that sucks i wish they made a kit 4 our cars oh well gotta keep trying

 

Why does welding cost so much? is it the materials or labor or split down the middle? Im starting to think i should take some welding classes.

 

Mostly labor but the materials are'nt really that cheap either then price goes up depending on the metals and method of build, realistically if you were a welder you could whip out a set of headers for pretty cheap, I am just not (yet) a welder.

 

All though it is far from done I will post a pic of the work in progress for the center console that will house the cars vitals

 

Those are prosport guages huh?

~Dv8

 

dude u need more lighting for these pictures but ye that is coming along pretty well... three way race u, me and whats77inaname its official get ready

 

Race? Moi? I don't race.

I win.

 

Sorry low res till it's done

 

JFWY *lol*

 

we shall see... u beat me? yes we shall see.

 

Telion I really hope those AREN'T prosport gauges they have some BIG issues. Please tell us they are DEFI.

 

I've gathered that you think expensive things equal a better product, and while that maybe true in many cases, its all subjective to the person buying.

Defi 2 1/16 guages are over $200+, prosports are around 60, while autometers are 120 and up. You get what you pay for and if what you pay for satisfy's you, then its money well spent.

As for me, I buy smart. My boost gauge is also my boost controller.

~Dv8

 

Hmmmmmmmmm, doesn't the EMS have boost controller functionality?

 

Wasnt good enough. I need a small compact unit with many programmable maps, scramble and a boatload of other features that are all a push button away.

Dv8 your taking that in the wrong meaning. Defi and prosport were the only gauges I know to have that "hidden" look. The reason I say prosport is having issues is because I ran them but ran into a big issue with them draining the battery (they drain batteries when not running the car constantly). Granted its a 75% chance it will happen but its the same.

For me autometer is also junk because of being known for inaccuracy. I personally have a HKS p/w/h gauge and blitz SBC i-D. I always prefer a gauge over a digital gauge.

I dont know why the guage would drain power when they conect to switched 12v source unless the key is in the ignition and switched on.

~Dv8

 

So did you finally get proficient at working Carbon fiber? I remember seeing some threads of your first attempts and they were decent but not yet great. That console on the other hand, looks sick.

 

Dv8 your taking that in the wrong meaning. Defi and prosport were the only gauges I know to have that "hidden" look. The reason I say prosport is having issues is because I ran them but ran into a big issue with them draining the battery (they drain batteries when not running the car constantly). Granted its a 75% chance it will happen but its the same.

For me autometer is also junk because of being known for inaccuracy. I personally have a HKS p/w/h gauge and blitz SBC i-D. I always prefer a gauge over a digital gauge.

 

They most certainly are but they are the mechanical ones and contrary to your experience I have done my homework and have seen a lot of positive results and I tend to agree with DV8 on this one.


Reboticon I am not there yet but very close, I have nailed the mixing of the compound I just need to perfect the forming in terms of creating the perfect mold.

 

Methinks someone ran his wire to 12v+ instead of ign+..

 

No it was the playback box thing the one that holds the information. I would post it from google but I'm to lazy for that right now.

Telion, I have a cheap and effective way for you to make your headers. This is how we built mine and how we did it for other cars. For example this 4 cylinder car.

 

Wait, you made those for your Legend like that!? I thought that was a mock up part at first sight.
I dont know man, you tell others to get super expensive parts, including me then go to home depot to build your manifolds out of ducting.

Creative to say the least, but that doesnt seem to have longetivty or velocity in mind, nor emission legality in those states that require it.

~Dv8

 

so what parts exactly is that made of...and do those really work?? cause i have to say that is really creative

 

95legendGS, do you have any pics or video of your setup?:hide:

 

dethred sorry no pics or videos yet. It's just all "together" and needs put in the car haha.

D&D the collector in that picture is from home depot and the tubes are just flexy pipe almost like pipe for a dryer vent but not as think and more sturdy. I can definately say for a total of 30 bucks and a little bit of welding its the cheapest way I've ever seen to make headers but it DOES work.

 

Seems like a bad idea from a flow perspective, but I'd be curious to see how it dynos. You sure can't beat the price.