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upgrade lighting harness

6.5K views 69 replies 11 participants last post by  Alperovich  
#1 ·
I did the high beam > low beam conversion and hated it.

I also tried Silverstar bulbs ... they were better but both nulbs burned out in a year .... so now I want to get 80 watt low beams and wondered where I can get a heavy duty wiring harness so I dont fry the wires ?

Any other problems with making this happen that I should know about ?
 
#5 ·
installation will be pretty straight forward.

it has 2 "in" connectors where you plug one low beam plug and one high beam plug. you'll use the plugs from the driver side. so you wont even use the passenger plugs.

then it has 4 "out" connectors.

this kit will allow you to have highs and lows at the same time.

i noticed with this kit my lights never dim when my system is playing... even though every other light dims.. like my gauges.
 
#6 ·
bl420, thanks for the link.
I was just curious what you meant by 'have highs and lows at the same time'.
If I understand you right, the OEM setup does exactly that when you put your brights on, because we have 4 single-filament bulbs, 2 lows, 2 highs, so the lows are already on all the time, and if the highs are on (center headlights), without your bright switch active, you'd still have your brights on. I don't know if that made sense. Maybe I misunderstood what you wrote. :p
 
#9 ·
Will this product actually install in a Legend, or am I going to get a product that doesn't work on out particular car ?

Description: 9005, 9006 Heavy Duty Automotive Head Lamp Wiring Relays Kit

It does NOT list cars which it fits ... it just says
For: For Most Car

Kinda concerned, which is why I like to buy things locally and have them installed !
 
#10 ·
well i have it installed in my legend as you can see in my 2nd post... post #5

the reason why it says for most cars is because... not all cars have 9005/9006 bulbs

9006 is your low beam and 9005 is your high beam

theres a whole slew of other types of bulbs... thats why it says for most cars...

and the reason why it doesnt list for what car it fits is because they already said what type of bulb it needs. (9005/9006)

you're not going to go to an auto parts store and look on the back of an oil bottle and find your car listed on the back... reason being your suppose to know what your car uses.

btw the reason why they sell a 9005/9006 harness kit is because the cars that have 9006 bulbs as their low beams have also have 9005 as their high beams...
the two go hand in hand together because they're single filament bulbs.
 
#11 ·
btw your local parts store is probably only going to have what they call a heavy duty wiring harness which is basically a female 9005 or 9006 connector that just has a thicker wire going out of it...

like this

Image


(no relays or anything to draw power from your battery) pretty much useless since its still dependant on the original wire. and if you want to make that cheap harness better your going to have to use relays.

they also have something called plug and play kits which is basically the same thing so that you wont have to splice or solder into your existing connection.
but its still the same thing...

so why not just get the kit.
 
#14 ·
:eek2: :eek2:

if you can do the 9005 > 9006 bulb conversion than you can do this

its as simple as it sounds... plug and play

all you have to do is connect 4 wires... ground... high beam connector... low beam connector... and one wire to the battery postive terminal.

this seriously took me less than 10 mins to install

and you can probably use some zip ties when feeding the passenger side harness to the other side and zip tieing them to the bumper... thats it

im sure you probably dont want to drop off your car at the dealer and wait a couple hours when you can do it yourself in less amount of time than it takes to get it to the dealer no less mention how much of your arm they're going to take off to install a headlight harness.
 
#15 ·
bl420 said:
all you have to do is connect 4 wires... ground... high beam connector... low beam connector... and one wire to the battery postive terminal.
So I guess you didn't you use any relays or fuses at all ?
I have done some reading in the links I posted and I think its more complicated than 4 wires.

Anyone heard of this guy Daniel Stern ?
 
#16 ·
no i mean if you buy the harness kit from www.eautoworks.com

the first link i sent you... it includes all the relays and wires that you need.... everything is pre-assembled... ready to install.. what you see in the picture is what you get except that its 9005/9006 connectors. the wire harness is done.

all you need to do is connect the existing low beam and high beam connectors to the new harness and basically attach the battery positive cable and attach vehicle chassis ground cable....

thats it...
all the wiring is pre-done for you so you dont have to go through the headache.

btw with that daniel stern guy or whatever the harness that is sold on eautoworks.com is basically this diagram.

Image


its similar but not exact but same prinicipal. just follow the instructions in the kit...
 
#18 ·
Here is an email I got from Daniel Stern I will share with you all

> Daniel, my car is a 1994 Acura Legend LS Sedan

Mm, OK, yes, I can understand why you're in need of help, then.

Your recipe for improved lighting is as follows:

-Custom-made relay harness for your Acura's ground-switched system, $98
(this is not a prefab piece of junk, nor is it a parts kit. The parts kit
would be very difficult and labor-intensive to make work correctly in your
Acura.) This harness is very easy to install (just eight connections, of
which six are simple snap-ins and two are easy ring-terminals).

-HIR1/9011 high beam bulbs and HIR2/9012 low beam bulbs.

The new bulbs are not some tinted or overwattage version of 9005 and 9006,
but rather employ a relatively new technology called HIR, Halogen
Infrared. The mechanical dimensions of the bulb are all virtually
identical to the 9005 and 9006 bulbs, but the bulb glass is spherical
instead of tubular, with the sphere centered around the filament. There is
a "Durable IR Reflective" coating on the spherical glass. Infrared = heat,
so the coating causes heat to be reflected back to the filament at the
center of the sphere. This causes the filament to become much hotter
(producing more light) than it can by passing electricity through it,
*without* the shorter life or greater heat production that comes with
overwattage bulbs (to say nothing of overwattage bulbs' incompatibility
with stock wiring.)

Here's the comparison:

Low beam stock: 9006, 12.8V, 55W, 1000 lumens, 875 hours
Low beam new: HIR2, 12.8V, 55W, 1875 lumens, 875 hours

High beam stock: 9005, 12.8V, 65W, 1700 lumens, 320 hours
High beam new: HIR1, 12.8V, 65W, 2530 lumens, 320 hours

So you're looking at nearly 88 percent more light from the low beams and a
grand total of 137% more light (49% of which from the high beam units, 88%
of which from the low beams, which may be wired to remain on with the high
beams) on high beam. The beam pattern will not change, but there will be
considerably more light within the beam pattern.

Now, it's not a problem to use HIR1 in any high beam that takes 9005. High
beams are by definition difficult to make too intense. If there's anyone
in front of you to object to glare, you should be using LOW beams. There
is a low-beam HIR bulb, but it must be used with discretion. The HIR2 (low
beam bulb) produces 1875 lumens. That's about 88 percent more light than a
9006, so it must only be used in low beams that have, as part of their
design, excellent control of upward stray light. If the low beam pattern
doesn't have a sharp horizontal cutoff at the top of the beam, if there's
appreciable upward stray light above horizontal, you will produce
excessive glare and get excessive backdazzle with HIR2s.

These bulbs are spendy - $26/ea - but their cost is worth considering in
context: Any number of companies will charge you more than this for a
tarted-up 9005 or 9006 with blue colored glass (PIAA and Sylvania
Silverstar come to mind) that doesn't produce more light and has a very
short lifespan.

The HIR bulbs have a double-wide top ear on the plastic bulb base, this is
to comply with the law requiring different bulbs to have different bases.
The extra-wide plastic top ear is easily trimmed or filed to make the bulb
fit your headlamp's bulb receptacle. Once that's done, they go directly
into the headlamp, and the existing sockets snap on.

The low beams are out of stock at the moment; the high beams are in stock
(low beams back in stock in January)

You will need to deactivate your car's factory high-beam Daytime Running
Lamps, because they are not compatible with the relay harness. But, DRLs
are mandatory in Canada, so stop by www.webelectricproducts.com and pick
up their DRL-1 DRL module. This runs the front turn signals full time as
DRLS (as many present-model vehicles do), thus taking that function off
the headlamp circuit.

> don't want to spend $800 for HIDs

Good, there's no safe and legal way to have HIDs in your present car!
 
#22 ·
well... are you going to get a HID retrofit kit or no?
if you get a retrofit kit then you still need a harness upgrade... some will argue no but its just to be on the safe side. HID ballasts use 35w average but when it starts up it uses alot more...

to answer your question on HIR bulbs...
HIR bulbs uses 55w.... and no they dont cost $100 or anywhere near that.

http://hirheadlights.com/
sell them for $30 and theres a seller on ebay selling it for $30 also

you wont need to upgrade your harness if you use HIR bulbs.

but since they are brighter than stock it might still give you glare.

but if you put aftermarket 80w or 100w bulbs in then you will need to upgrade the harness.

no one on this board to my knowledge has HIR bulbs cause everyone either goes with HID or projector retrofits

and that email daniel stern sent you... its all bs

i'll be damned if i had to pay $100 for a harness kit that i can make myself or buy for $36 dollars.

theres absolutely nothing complicated about our lighting system... theres 4 bulbs. and a switch

it seems as though you dont believe me but i have a harness kit with relays and 6 plug-ins. and the whole nine yards....

daniel stern is just going to probably send you the same harness that i sent you a link of from www.eautoworks.com

if you feel like it... burn your money on his harness and take a picture of it for me.

daniel stern is just making something simple more complicated than it seems... and its working because you're believeing him.
 
#23 ·
Well, I will be the first Legend with HIR bulbs, and will have them in about 6 weeks.

Its not that I didn't believe you, I do. Its just that this guy is local and its one stop shopping which is convenient. I may have paid a bit more, but convenience has its price.

Thanks for all your assistance. I appreciate the time taken to help me out.
 
#25 ·
I considered a retrofit too until I read this. I dont think this is BS

An HID kit consists of HID ballasts and bulbs for "retrofitting" into a halogen headlamp. Often, these products are advertised using the name of a reputable lighting company ("Real Philips kit! Real Osram kit! Real Hella kit!") to try to give the potential buyer the illusion of legitimacy. Fact: While some of the components in these kits are sometimes manufactured by the companies mentioned, the components aren't being put to their designed or intended use. Reputable companies like Philips, Osram, Hella, etc. NEVER endorse this kind of "retrofit" usage of their products.

Halogen headlamps and HID headlamps require very different optics to produce a safe and effective—not to mention legal—beam pattern. How come? Because of the very different characteristics of the two kinds of light source.

A halogen bulb has a cylindrical light source: the glowing filament. The space immediately surrounding the cylinder of light is completely dark, and so the sharpest contrast between bright and dark is along the edges of the cylinder of light. The ends of the filament cylinder fade from bright to dark. An HID bulb, on the other hand, has a crescent-shaped light source -- the arc. It's crescent-shaped because as it passes through the space between the two electrodes, its heat causes it to try to rise. The space immediately surrounding the crescent of light glows in layers...the closer to the crescent of light, the brighter the glow. The ends of the arc crescent are the brightest points, and immediately beyond these points is completely dark, so the sharpest contrast between bright and dark is at the ends of the crescent of light.

When designing the optics (lens and/or reflector) for a lamp, the characteristics of the light source are *the* driving factor around which everything else must be engineered. If you go and change the light source, you've done the equivalent of putting on somebody else's eyeglasses: You can probably make them fit on your face OK, but you won't see properly.

Now, what about those "retrofit" jobs in which the beam cutoff still appears sharp? Don't be fooled; it's an error to judge a beam pattern solely by its cutoff. In many lamps, especially the projector types, the cutoff will remain the same regardless of what light source is behind it. Halogen bulb, HID capsule, cigarette lighter, firefly, hold it up to the sun—whatever. That's because of the way a projector lamp works. The cutoff is simply the projected image of a piece of metal running side-to-side behind the lens. Where the optics come in is in distributing the light under the cutoff. And, as with all other automotive lamps (and, in fact, all optical instruments), the optics are calculated based not just on where the light source is within the lamp (focal length) but also the specific photometric characteristics of the light source...which parts of it are brighter, which parts of it are darker, where the boundaries of the light source are, whether the boundaries are sharp or fuzzy, the shape of the light source, and so forth.

As if the optical mismatch weren't reason enough to drop the idea of "retrofitting" an HID bulb where a halogen one belongs—and it is reason enough!—there are even more reasons why not to do it. Here are some of them:

The only available arc capsules have a longitudinal arc (arc path runs front to back) on the axis of the bulb, but many popular halogen headlamp bulbs, such as 9004, 9007, H3 and H12, use a filament that is transverse (side-to-side) and/or offset (not on the axis of the bulb) central axis of the headlamp reflector). In this case, it is impossible even to roughly approximate the position and orientation of the filament with a "retrofit" HID capsule. Just because your headlamp might use an axial-filament bulb, though, doesn't mean you've jumped the hurdles—the laws of optical physics don't bend even for the cleverest marketing department, nor for the catchiest HID "retrofit" kit box.

The latest gimmick is HID arc capsules set in an electromagnetic base so that they shift up and down or back and forth. These are being marketed as "dual beam" kits that claim to address the loss of high beam with fixed-base "retrofits" in place of dual-filament halogen bulbs. (A cheaper variant of this is one that uses a fixed HID bulb with a halogen bulb strapped or glued to the side of it...yikes!) What you wind up with is two poorly-formed beams, at best. The reason the original equipment market has not adopted the movable-capsule designs they've been playing with since the mid 1990s is because it is impossible to control the arc position accurately so it winds up in the same position each and every time.

In the original-equipment field, there are single-capsule dual-beam systems appearing ("BiXenon", etc.), but these all rely on a movable optical shield, or movable reflector—the arc capsule stays in one place. The Original Equipment engineers have a great deal of money and resources at their disposal, and if a movable capsule were a practical way to do the job, they'd do it. The "retrofit" kits certainly don't address this problem anywhere near satisfaction. And even if they did, remember: Whether a fixed or moving-capsule "retrofit" is contemplated, solving the arc-position problem and calling it good is like going to a hospital with two broken ribs, a sprained ankle and a crushed toe and having the nurse say "Well, you're free to go home now, we've put your ankle in a sling!" Focal length (arc/filament positioning) is only just ONE issue out of several.

The most dangerous part of the attempt to "retrofit" Xenon headlamps is that sometimes you get a deceptive and illusory "improvement" in the performance of the headlamp. The performance of the headlamp is perceived to be "better" because of the much higher level of foreground lighting (on the road immediately in front of the car). However, the beam patterns produced by this kind of "conversion" virtually always give less distance light, and often an alarming lack of light where there's meant to be a relative maximum in light intensity. The result is the illusion that you can see better than you actually can, and that's not safe.

It's tricky to judge headlamp beam performance without a lot of knowledge, a lot of training and a lot of special equipment, because subjective perceptions are very misleading. Having a lot of strong light in the foreground, that is on the road close to the car and out to the sides, is very comforting and reliably produces a strong impression of "good headlights". The problem is that not only is foreground lighting of decidedly secondary importance when travelling much above 30 mph, but having a very strong pool of light close to the car causes your pupils to close down, worsening your distance vision...all the while giving you this false sense of security. This is to say nothing of the massive amounts of glare to other road users and backdazzle to you, the driver, that results from these "retrofits".

HID headlamps also require careful weatherproofing and electrical shielding because of the high voltages involved. These unsafe "retrofits" make it physically possible to insert an HID bulb where a halogen bulb belongs, but this practice is illegal and dangerous, regardless of claims by these marketers that their systems are "beam pattern corrected" or the fraudulent use of established brand names to try to trick you into thinking the product is legitimate. In order to work correctly and safely, HID headlamps must be designed from the start as HID headlamps.

What about the law, what does it have to say on the matter? In virtually every first-world country, HID "retrofits" into halogen headlamps are illegal. They're illegal clear across Europe and in all of the many countries that use European ECE headlight regulations. They're illegal in the US and Canada. Some people dismiss this because North American regulations, in particular, are written in such a manner as to reject a great many genuinely good headlamps. Nevertheless, on the particular count of HID "retrofits" into halogen headlamps, the world's regulators and engineers agree: DON'T!

The only safe and legitimate HID retrofit is one that replaces the entire headlamp—that is lens, reflector, bulb...the WHOLE shemozzle—with optics designed for HID usage. In the aftermarket, it is possible to get clever with the growing number of available products, such as Hella's modular projectors available in HID or halogen, and fabricate your own brackets and bezels, or to modify an original-equipment halogen headlamp housing to contain optical "guts" designed for HID usage. But just putting an HID bulb where a halogen one belongs is bad news all around.
 
#26 · (Edited)
bl420.. thanks for providing a link to a product that WILL work at a low cost.

Stu funny that you spent $98 for a part that costs $36, even though it was spelled out to you 25? times?

I am to understand you paid $98 for the harness? But you did not get the 80 watt bulbs, so the harness is unnecessary, you got something akin to Silverstars -- hyped 55w bulbs promising yet again to be wonderful.

Oh well..

He is right that HIDs are illegal in stock halogen. I have been posting that in nearly every thread on that topic since I've been here. I can't stand when people disregard other people on the road to light the road in front of them. The only real way to go is a projector retrofit and removing the lenses.