i know your not dealin with a civic but when i had my civic and was planiing on making it turbo i read that i should you the gm 3bar map sensor now i dont know if it will work with the legends since the motor is way bigger but hey thats why we got trial and error MAP Sensor, GM, Bosch-Style, 3-Bar, Stock-Style just copy n paste on ebay search

 

I have not rules this out but I have to read up on it more. I have just skimmed through it as of yet.

 

JETDOC
i got a question for you?
i got my legend tore down to the heads do i have to take the cams out and stuff so they can get pressure tested and stuff and one more thing its off subject but what trannys match up with the c32a1 im wanting to do a six speed swap???
thanks for all the help

 

What the heck is up with all the threadjacking?! Has jetdoc even posted in this thread ever?!

To answer the questions though, yes you must take the cams out to get them pressure tested. For six speed trannies the best and most common swap is the 6 speed from late 90s z28 camaros.

 

:rofl: No kidding. They must just be posting in the thread with the most activity??

 

some thread pruning is in order... mods?

 

Ok all this recent tubo and SC excitement got me to go a little crazy on the couple steps of my car, well one step atleast. the drain and feed lines. I spent 175.00 on this alone when at first I was going to go the home depot route lol, so much for that idea but none the less here's the list

Copper Gasket for T3 T3/T4 Inlet manifold turbo flange x2

T3 T3/T4 Turbo Aluminum Oil Drain 10 AN Size Adapter x2
(oops, the drain lines are -8AN not 10 I have to fix that)

Goodridge 1136-9004 An-4 90 deg.Swivel Reusable fitting x2

Goodridge AN-4 straight Reusable Hose End x2

29" Goodridge 710 An-8 drain hose w/ 45 degree swivel and 90 degree swivel hose ends x2

5 feet of AN-4 Stainless Steel braided hose.

some info I found on their site
710 Hose: This exclusive Goodridge development has changed the perception of traditional fluid transfer hoses, worldwide. Constructed of a convoluted PTFE inner tube with a carbon impregnated static dissipation liner (impervious to virtually all chemicals) and covered with the industry's only source of black Aramid Fibre.

Application: Fuel, Oil, Water, Methanol, Air
Temperature Range: -45oC to +170oC
Material: Anti-Static Convoluted PTFE bore, Aramid fibre braid

200 SS Hose:
Application: Fuel, Oil, Coolants, Methanol, Water.
Temperature Range: -46oC to +150oC

Unrelated to the oil lines but related to the project I picked up a
BLITZ DUAL-SBC Spec S boost controller.

Possibly a little bit overkill but I hope to grow into it all

 

Ok all this recent tubo and SC excitement got me to go a little crazy on the couple steps of my car, well one step atleast. the drain and feed lines. I spent 175.00 on this alone when at first I was going to go the home depot route lol, so much for that idea but none the less here's the list

Copper Gasket for T3 T3/T4 Inlet manifold turbo flange x2

T3 T3/T4 Turbo Aluminum Oil Drain 10 AN Size Adapter x2

(oops, the drain lines are -8AN not 10 I have to fix that)
Goodridge 1136-9004 An-4 90 deg.Swivel Reusable fitting x2

Goodridge AN-4 straight Reusable Hose End x2
29" Goodridge 710 An-8 drain hose w/ 45 degree swivel and 90 degree swivel hose ends x2

5 feet of AN-4 Stainless Steel braided hose.

some info I found on their site
710 Hose: This exclusive Goodridge development has changed the perception of traditional fluid transfer hoses, worldwide. Constructed of a convoluted PTFE inner tube with a carbon impregnated static dissipation liner (impervious to virtually all chemicals) and covered with the industry's only source of black Aramid Fibre.

Application: Fuel, Oil, Water, Methanol, Air
Temperature Range: -45oC to +170oC
Material: Anti-Static Convoluted PTFE bore, Aramid fibre braid

200 SS Hose:
Application: Fuel, Oil, Coolants, Methanol, Water.
Temperature Range: -46oC to +150oC

Unrelated to the oil lines but related to the project I picked up a
BLITZ DUAL-SBC Spec S boost controller.

Possibly a little bit overkill but I hope to grow into it all

Can't wait to see the DIY on this one! :woot:

 

EXTREME low buck with a healthy amount of macgyverism.. Thats my angle. Keep out of it.

So do you have an ETA for when you will be firing this thing up? Im not talking about having it ready to run at the track im talking about just cranking it on with the turbos installed for the first time.

 

You know everyday I want to do it lol, but first I got to get the turbo lines run (safety measure incase I lose patience and decide to do it) Second well before that I actually want to clean out the headers and free them from any debris, I need to have the downpipe welded up, (doubt I will wait for the whole exhaust to be done) I need to have the blow off valve placed either via couplers or replacing the adapter I bought with the right size for the BOV. and complete the wiring of the power to the fusebox (minor). So realistically I am still about a month out, unless I decide to free air fire itfor a few seconds without the downpipe at super low RPM oh I also need to hook up the gauges. Still a lot to do my friend. <damn Mccain has forever ruind those two words together for me

 

hmmm if thats the case any chance you can make a vid when you first fire it?

 

Possibly

 

wciked cars guys

 

Okay I figured a way to secure the fuse box next to the steering column and maintain the ability to get the steering column's lower dash panel back on . It actually worked out better than I expected it to. I need to remove the bar and cover it with some electrical tape to be on the safe side though.

 

can you be a little specific about how you mounted it? I see the pics but its hard for me to tell what you did. I need to mount the TCU im adding to my civic and havent found a good place yet.

 

Took a thin well 1/4" thick aluminum bar bent one end at 90 degreesand slid it between two supports that tghten together by a screw and tightend in to place on that side then ran it across the fron side of the fuse box tight enough to be secure and not shake out of place but loose enough to not damage the wiring on the backside. then took a metal wire tie down that had a hole for where you would nail or wire the wires down to a stud, bent the looped part that the wires rest in out, drilled a hole in the other side large enough for the aluminum bar to slip in and mounted that side to the steering column so that move it up and down to tighten it and/or loosen the side by the in main relay and remove it all together without difficulty.


I also got a little more work done today and cut the holes larger to accomodate the intercooler piping and the piping for the air filters so that I can run them in full CAI fashion

 

Do you find that you start slowing down on projects the closer you are to completing them? Thats how it works for me. Once you finish it you will have so much time on your hands you aren't sure what to do with. Also check out my project (in my sig) sometime. I feel better the more smart people are watching.

 

I do feel that way, but at the same time I feel pushed to finish it because I grow tired of it or as though it just is not getting done fast enough so I move on. But this has too much money time effort and desire in it to do that. I will check out what you're working on.

 

Well the correct and the incorrect, drain line flanges came in. Anybody wanna buy a nice set of Blue -10AN drainline flanges lol Pics once the batteries charge.

Question?

Anybody know a good place to tpa the 3.5 to run the oil line to the turbo's?

 

T off the oil pressure sending unit or get an oil filter sandwich adapter.

~Dv8

I hit edit instead of quote on the above post, sorry.

 

Just a little teaser pic. hopefully the lube lines for the turbos will be here on Mon as scheduled.

 

Ooo, that'll look nice on the center dash.

 

Thank you, it's actually a full carbon fiber piece not an overlay.

another teaser pic.

Still a few more steps before it is done but it's getting there.

 

Ok had to throw some of it together to get a good idea of what I am looking at before more welding and running the oil lines so I snapped a few picks of what it should look like once it nears completion less asthetic details

 

Tis looking good homeboy. You going to wrap those exhaust pipes eventually? Its going to get real hot in there.

~Dv8

 

Thanks, I made it myself. I was playing with the idea of making eyelids for the G2's and bought some carbon fiber then realized that there would not be a way for a stock radio console to house all the gauges I wanted so I figured it would be a great opportunity to practice working with CF. This is my second attemt; the first one didn't hold all the gauges I decided to buy once I got serious about the build.

 

those are some awesome pictures! you have come a very long way since the beginning of the thread.


keep up the good work!

 

Is there any way you can have reroute the exhaust pipes so that they bend right after the turbos? It looks like your new fan might melt.

 

wow so much for getting a wrx..... JUST KIDDING... but telion i am very impressed cant wait to hear it run, boost is a beautiful thing

 

Thanks guys I appreciate the kind words,

I plan on jethot coating the exhaust pipes, the headers and the Y-pipe once the build is complete; I wanna do as much as I can to keep from having to repaint the CF hood every year. The hotside of the turbose will not be Jethotted because I plan to replace them before too long.

Good observation Vic, these pics are a little deceptive (and I think the pipe moved on me). but at the point where it runs in front of the fan the goal will bw to have about 3" of space there on each side of the piping.

Yeah I got spanked by a WRX some months back, so as soon as I am done I am going hunting for it. (lol)

 

haha... im guessing youll be pushing somewhere around 350ish wheeL?