--- a little help real fast ---

Ok I have a question well two actually. The Air boost control valve and the air inlet pipe what should I do with them?

 

ditch it all.

~Dv8

 

Bringing you another Telion original lol. I took my TI vacuum tank and used it as a replacement TII vacuum tank since it needed to be relocated. I could only imagine that thing sitting just below the passenger turbo. I also now seriously wonder why Honda didn't put the high and low by bypass solenoids on the firewall closer to the original location of intake manifold man that simplified the amount of hose necessary.

 

Ok air boost control I can see that, block off the breather inlet doable, should I ditch the vacuum tank and the charcoal canister too?:dunno:

 

yes.
The only thing you really need are the VIS solenoids & tank if you run VIS, otherwise all that other air injection emission crap is nothing more than paper weights. I ditched all that stuff years ago, including VIS. It's a hinderance especially if your F/I.
Since your TT, I highly doubt emission compliance is of any concerns to you.

~Dv8

 

Thanks , emissions is and is not a concern meaning that I want to be able to swap a few parts and make it emissions compliant (on an as needed basis). Since the charcoal canister is in place I guess I will leave it; its just a couple pounds. I gutted the air boost controller and have ported the spring side of the BOV to it since it is now a OEM looking manifold inlet. I will make a Block off plate where the EACV goes (said EGR my bad sorry fixed it).

Do you think since I am running an F/IC that I should keep the EACV since it is only designed to assist the car in idling and when it is cold?

 

yes you keep the eacv and the fast idle valve. air boost has been deleted along with all of the air suction(Type 1) because Im using the RL neck. The eacv and fast idle are both moved up front on the RL neck for me. everything else is gone. This makes everything much cleaner. If you dont switch out to an RL neck, i would just keep the air boost, I dont know how the FIC will handle. Im asuming you may have issues because its a piggyback, maybe not. Youll have to get with Matt on that.

All the charcoal canister and purge control solenoid are for is to cut down on emissions. remove and its one less headache. If you know how the EGR works than all other emissions related systems are the same way. disable them and the engine gets closer to just being an engine. The VIS canister vacuum tanks are different. (Type 1 have two tanks) VIS is there to increase lowend transitioning to mid and top, therefore if you want VIS you want to keep that tank(s). Although I eliminated it a long time ago when I went Type 2, VIS still worked for me at the time, probably works better if the canister's present for obvious reasons, but under boost, I think the VIS is a big waste of space!

~Dv8

 

I think you should keep it, pull it out and your rpms are going to be real low in the cold and it will take forever for the car to heat up, it takes like 10 minutes as is, don't make it worst, on the other hand turbos should help it heat up faster...

 

Ok provided I was able to decipher the installation manuals that appear to have been written by kids in elementary school I think I have all the vacuum lines and hoses figured out.

 

From post 921 till now I just got all sorts of confused on what you changed and moved. I guess I should learn some technically terms and try to picture where everything is located haha.

Looking good thought Telion

 

Ok I took today off to finish up some side projects and get back to a point where I was no longer feeling as though my car was owning me and was able to redesign the passenger wastegate while she was all buttoned down, damn puzzle.

 

That look so much better now, good job :thumbsup:.

 

Thanks and I could not agree more, the previous way looked like something had gone terribly wrong, and it had lol. I will possibly grind all the visible parts down a little before they go on for testing

 

Great, get it on vid!!!!

 

lol still a ways away from that point.

 

Thursday again?

 

yeah but this time I will have to drop it off to you Wednesday night it is fool proof this time

On another note you have to celebrate small successes so here is the pic of the block off plate for the air inlet pipe.

"mental thought" (I need to find those pics of Buzzard's engine's as a reference point)

 

Keep the eacv.

Why is it ok to eliminate the vacuum chamber? Because of all the aftermarket tuning stuff you do/have? Emissions yeah yank that stuff but wont the vac chamber be needed so the MAP sensor doesn't get confused, or does your tuning stuff bypass that problem?

 

To clarify I didn't remove it I just relocated it and changed the type of container used. However you can remove it because it is really just a vacuum pump that will assist in opening the VIS flaps. think of it as a suction force on standby tied to each bypass valve diaphragm without it the flaps can still be sucked into the open position from the vacuum coming directly off the manifold by bypassing it and running hose #4 directly to the manifold (with the check valve) hmm I could have it backwards though, it may help to close the flaps but either way.

 

ok found another purpose for the SAFC NEO, I am going to use it (with a relay) to activate the water injection system. (Vic asked about a page or so back). Yeah this post was a little out in left field lol.

 

I may have missed it earlier in the thread, but did you say/ have you decided what cams you are using?

Maybe if you get a spare moment you could update the first post on page one with a current overview of what you are building? Like just list turbo size, radiator, EMS, etc? that way everyone could always check there before asking questions.

 

I have thought about that but I kinda like the idea of people fumbling through the thread to find info, it is this method that I have learned a majority that I know doing that and then validating or invalidating information has proven to be very informative for me. But for now I am going to follow DV8's idea and attempt with the WEB cams, but I do have a set of TI's on standby

I don't think lag will be a problem for you, those turbos are small. Actually I think you'll top out with them fairly quick. The nightmare begins if the factory ecu conflicts with the FIC. I can see it happening with the factory ecu, since its been so temperamental in the past.

~Dv8

I am thinking you are right about the lag, but I do think it will be a sufficient size. As for the ECU I am banking on the fact that it has been done successfully with the 91-93 NSX's.

 

I hate to speculate hp for this but I want to break 400 before too long and would love to break 500. But beyond that I will let others speculate

 

I'm a fan of your build up thus far, but even 400 whp seems a little hard to achieve on pump for such small turbos. Maybe 400whp on race gas, but im still thinking no. I don't see you pushing more than 7psi per side right? Not saying you wont make what you hope for, because we really wont know until you do it, but just seems unlikely with your current setup.
500whp, your going to need completely different turbos (bigger), not to mention the possibility of a built engine. Either way you'll probably make more TQ than hp. 530 bhp is where Chris is right now and hes made a lot of necessary mods to get there, especially to the top-end. dropping that into a legend some how would probably yield around 450whp. See what i'm saying?

I'm sure it will be fun either way

 

You'll do fine, with all the things you have done, you'll get a good enough HP.

 

Telion while removing the NSX ECU harness found this device E.S.M. (Electronic Signal Modifier)next to the ECU connectors is this something you can possible use in your set up, i know that is used to "hide" the MAP sensor reading and also is made for Acuras...:dunno:

 

Hey I haven't seen anything in your build about water/alchohol injection.

I also vote that you condense your thread. Sifting through 20 pages is one thing but 60 is ridiculous - I'd rather just not read it.

-Matt

 

I'm curious If you've ever considered a supercharger instead of a turbo??? I saw the thread from Korea where the guy was pushing 403whp. I'm sure with your expertise you could easily accomplish the same if not more. Just Curious.

 

He was building a supercharged car until he started on this twin turbo crusade.

 

He's mentioned at least water injection a couple of times (here for example), but like you said about digging through 60 pages. The "search this thread" tool helps a bit.

 

why not just have a machine shop open up the combustion chambers a little bit, then you could add a lot more boost? I think if you could build a strong enough bottom end and o ringed the head you could get 1000hp from the 3.2

I realize that may sound insane, but before F1 enacted limits in the early 90s teams were making 1500 horsepower from 1.6L D series (and crazy turbos of course)

 

They aren't that small since you have two of them, but they will spool to 8 psi real low in the powerband. Its one of those trade off things. Since you will reach full boost real low in the rpm range, you are going to build backpressure exponentially after that and it will be torturous at high rpms. This is where the anti reversion spots in those headers will really help you. See at high rpm the back pressure gets so great that reversion occurs and hot exhaust can get pushed back up in the cylinders.

 

^ that never occured to me...

 

As the fabrication part of the build is nearing its end (still not close enough though) I thought I would do another all major pieces test fit. Interesting enough the fan how must be swapped to the front give an inch take an inch and it didn't have one to give lol. I planned to but not till after I had atleast fired it up once. Well here's a pic of how she looks so far.

Still pretty dirty, and not enough purple I am thinking a nice dark purple powder coating on the valve covers. I may do paint first to see if I like it since I have two sets.

I also figured there may be a question as to how or if the filter on the driverside would fit, I know I had my doubts, but oh yeah and it even cleared the bumper The rubber elbow will go away in a little while lol.

 

Here telion, buy this foam intake filter should help with fitment

Perrin Performance - Filter Replacement 2-Piece 3.125" ID