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Lusting for a twin turbo setup, and would like (helpful) ideas

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142K views 1.5K replies 96 participants last post by  Telion  
#1 · (Edited)
First I apologize for the serious teaser and putting up pics of a project without results and dyno's because there are none. And who knows how long it could be before I go any further it could be a year or more! I just love hearing the ideas suggestions, feedback and knowlege you all have to offer. Isn't that a bulk of what we are here for? :) Well as many of you know I am currently underway with the Supercharger setup. It has been a very slow process but is still underway and the manifold for it is now being welded from what I understand.

I could not get over how much I loved Hotlava's tt setup and it overcame me. So I figured at some point in the future I also wanted to do a tt setup and began slowly buying the additional pieces it would take to do so (being that many are the same, such as injectors, fuel pump monitoring gauges and what not). Then last week my car decide to get some garage time (it broke down later found to be a broken axle, Ebay? I think it was tsk tsk). But none the less it was a perfect excuse to play while she was down so I started to look at how I would eventually want my tt to be setup. What better way than to play. It helps kill concepts that look good in your head given the (not so) workable space; a few of my ideas have since died. But long story short this is where I am at so far. Now that my wife knows that it is just a broken axle I only have shipping time to continue playing before having to put her back together again.

A couple quick notes

-No this will not be done/completed for a very very long time.-This is very new to me so I would be the last to ask for suggestions though I love to share ideas.
-Yes the supercharger project is still underway and taking precedence over this.

-No I did not wake up one morning and say I am going to do a Legend Twin turbo setup during breakfast (sorry Hybird, that just kills me lol)
-No I am not going to be using PVC intercooler piping it is just cheaper to hack away at till I figure how I am going to do it when the time comes.
-I have also read up on some articles of Twin vs. Single and each seem to have there advantages from knowlegable members of their respective forums.
-cheap clamps will be replaced with t-clamps.

Ok the book is done here's the pics. (excuse the mess my garage is at war)
also please forgive the ugly "stand in" mesh and terrible paint, looks will come last. I don't want to tear it up after doing body work and paint.
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This one concerns me, there is not much rook and there is a damn brake fluid line that may need to be relocated. wires and hoses I don't mind moving brake, AC, and power steering lines I am not so happy/experinced with.
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Hopefully at some point I will be done destroying my car and be able to build it up like the one in my head lol.

-Tip- If you get a new intercooler or radiator, cover the fins with cardboard until it is fully installed so you don't damage the fins during installation :hide:

PS. The purple finish and and nice shiney engine bay will be back in time. it was too hard to maintain and not scratch to hell while getting a bug of some sort and doing stuff like ^ this. I think eventually I will powdercoat vs. paint though.
 
#1,126 ·
More details on actual process of tuning please! Do you twist knobs on a magic box or are you trying different chips or what? The tuning is what I have been most curious about. I still don't have much of a clue if I don't have jets and mixture screws to turn, or ******* macgyvering with resistors and false sensor values:hide:
 
#1,128 ·
Lol you guys are always welcome,



Well there are actually a couple of magical wizards widgets named Fic and Neo and their spells are quite difficult to accurately cast because some need to be converted from and to the ancient language of Kilopascal. No chips this time as they truly perform best in the magical world of WOT where the air flows at a ratio much leaner than Killanna should breathe.

In other words I have no idea yet lol.
 
#1,130 ·
I need to take it to someone skilled with FI/C on a dyno skills. On a side note though I found that there was a need to replace the thermostat grrr, did that today.
 
#1,132 ·
ok I have driven it up and down the street (AEM bypassed) and I cannot seem to get past 2000 rpms before she boggs down as if she is starved for of all things air? :wtf: Don't get me wrong it is not like I was going to go fast enough to produce more than 1 or 2 pounds of boost but there seems to be an issue that I am missing that is tied to the vacuum or air somewhere 95GSLegend is this what you were talking about?
 
#1,133 ·
Hey telion, when you get this working is it possible you could post all the details of your build i.e. what parts did you purcahse and perhaps diagrams? because honestly getting a company to make the kit would be a hassle and we could just keep a parts list and build list, if you so choose you could also sell the parts for a premium i guess, knowledge... as yours seems to be the best build , other members are being secretive (DV8!)...
 
G
#1,137 ·
Right on telion! Props from me :) Congrats on running yours.

As for the boost issue it sounds like the same I was running into. After checking things for 3 days straight we left it be and waited till the EMS arrived. We did find one vaccum issue when we checked everything again(about 4 weeks later, it was a kinked line) but we never tested it till we ran the EMS and so far no issues (knocks on the hardest wood possible)
 
#1,141 ·
Right on telion! Props from me :) Congrats on running yours.

As for the boost issue it sounds like the same I was running into. After checking things for 3 days straight we left it be and waited till the EMS arrived. We did find one vacuum issue when we checked everything again(about 4 weeks later, it was a kinked line) but we never tested it till we ran the EMS and so far no issues (knocks on the hardest wood possible)
I remember having an issue like this a while back and it was also a vacuum hose that seemed to be connected to something that produced the opposite of what it should (vacuum vs positive air flow). what gets me though is I can rev to 5k in idle but then when I drive it I get this issue. Time to go through the hoses I guess.
 
#1,139 ·
Thought this would make a cool shot as I walked out to ponder what is causing the bogging issue.

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#1,142 ·
Damn dude, I just spent the past 4 hours of my life reading this entire thread from front to back...

And i've had to change my shirt 3 times due to drool.
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Props on top of props for mostly pulling this off! We need to see if we can get your posts copied out into a seperate thread so people can read through your whole build without having to sort through 1000+ conversational posts.
 
G
#1,143 ·
I wish I could be of more help telion but your double my setup and on top of that you don't have the parts I have.

For instance there is no trace of VIS on my gs where yours I think still does? Little things like that make different scenarios for each person.

Being I don't know the engines very well does something happen at 2k rpm that might have caused it? Like VIS starting to open and causing havoc? If it does try making vis stay closed or leave it open and see if the problem continues. Check your waste gate lines also.
 
#1,144 ·
Thanks Banana Man lol :) It is quite long (missed that thread) I will go through it at some point and create a thread of just the process including the mishaps once it's done.

Thanks Well so far the first things I will try tomorrow possibly is up-ing the fuel pressure seems I am running about 6psi too low, and then there is a check valve on hose #4 that I failed to put on, so I will put that on and see where I stand from there. I doubt it would be the wastegates cause that is unrelated at so low RPM's and in vacuum
 
#1,145 ·
Do you have an A/F gauge hooked up? Does your head unit display A/F or the 02 voltage? It seems to me that those 450cc injectors would be running rich as hell before the boost. I mean thats almost double stock, so if they are pulsing at stock or a chipped bigger than stock rate, it may be starting to flood at that rpm point?
 
#1,146 ·
450's not hooked up yet but here are some of things that could help define the issue.
-stock fuel pump
-Idles fine, right at 14.7
-revs fine.
-I am running a stock ECU
-SAFC is zeroed out for test purposes

-When I rev it sitting still my FPR gauge drops to like 20psi from 40psi.
-Another possible issue is that it has sat for 6+ months now; could the gas be bad?
-Could something on the fuel pump gone bad?
-Possibly the 6an hose is too large for the stock fuel pump?
(injectors should still see the same amount of psi)
When I drive it at about 2.5 RPM's it goes as lean as 17-20 AFR (loss of fuel pressure)

I doubt that it is the map sensor because it would see more air and add more fuel. You know this really resembles the issue I had when I put the 450cc injectors in there, I wonder if if it had been going out for a while?
 
#1,147 ·
Ok current theory is if it is not a part of the solution it is apart of the problem so I replaced the fuel pump tonight I won't do a whole DIY but here is what I did.

removed the old unit
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Here is a shot of everything side by side OEM on the left
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I cut the little rubber support a little so it would fit the Walbro better
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Here is a shot of the Walbro in place. I went with a little thicker ground wire and shrink wrapped the ends for safety measures. I also ziptied it in place to ensure it was nice and snug (not necessary but it made me feel good)

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Tomorrow night after work I will fire it up and see what she does now.
 
#1,148 ·
while youre at it, should change the gas, too. old gas is no good especially boosted cars... just siphon it out an put it in your other car. Put new fresh fuel in the tank
 
#1,149 ·
Yeah replace that gas while you are at it or put in an additive. It definitely sounds like a fuel line/flow problem, not a sensor problem, from what you have found. I had a similar problem recently in a civic and It actually traced to the fuel return line right past the regulator, where the line mounts to the rail there was a tiny pin prick leak that was causing me to lose all fuel pressure when the regulator tried to just bleed off a little.
 
#1,151 ·
^Thank but unfortunately that is not the issue the Walbro I just replaced the stock pump with is working nice it is something else, I am wondering if it is the fuel pressure regulator. because when the engine revs I lose about 30 psi.
 
#1,153 ·
^ You lost me on the sending unit? However the similarities of this post are too great to overlook I think the leak is in the setup at the manifold itself at the rails, I will redo all this this weekend and I may as well throw the 450cc's back in.
Figure with this title I can always come back to it instead of making a new thread everytime I have an issue I cannot solve.

Ok with this issue here are a few basics you may ask or need to know

Setup: TII cams, springs and manifold, 450cc DSM injectors, stock fuel pump, stock RL FPR, assisting Megan Racing FPR for fuel trimming (before stock in the line to the injectors, worked fine before). For those that knew yes I corrected the vacuum lines. (and no more EGR CEL fixed that too, none at all actually)

The issue: The car idles and runs fine under normal to slightly over medium acceleration (at a current average of 14.3 to 14.5 AF, good enough for now.
But as soon as I go to 3/4 or full throttle the car dies out. It is very similar to what it feels like when you hit the Rev limit (but there is no CEL). when this happens the AF drops to an average of 10-11 AF. Now here is where it is different than a rev limiting effect, when you hit and stay at your rev limit your car is still strong and has a higher pitched dee dee dee dee dee (lol).
But in this case it is a very boggy sluggish type effect.

My first thought was ok too much fuel up top 3-5k.
Then I realized I could create this issue at any RPM by laying on the gas.

So my current thoughts are the DSM's throw down way too much fuel for the current setup under full throttle and the FPR's are not fully functioning.

I wouldn't think it to be timing as the stock injectors never did that and the springs can't (to my knowledge) throw it that far out of whack (especially with TII ignition maps.

And I wouldn't think that it was a lack of fuel due too the AF ratio.

tomorrow I am going to throw the stock injectors back in and see if that fixes it. If not I am stumped.

So what are your thoughts?
 
#1,154 ·
Ok Hybrid after reading the manual for an hour or so and then racking my brain for another hour I realized you were on to something with the o-rings hence the above. But you had the wrong set of o-rings I knew that the Walbro didn't have o-rings so I basically dismissed you saying check the o-rings on the fuel pump connection. However when I put the 450cc injectors in the first time I made my own o-rings because of their larger size and what could have been happening then is that air was leaking into the system and causing the same type of issue as I am experiencing now. Not enough for fuel to leak out due to being under throttle (read that in a G1 thread while researching) but enough to let air leak in. Causing a spike in AFR and a loss in psi at the FPR (guessing). So knowing how tight the fit is for the 450cc injectors with the Legend o-rings I lubed them up (lol Kyle kills me) and forced them in to create a super tight seal. Will this work :dunno: but it will eliminate one other possibility. Now I have to chip an ECU to get it to fire up with those injectors lol. Hopefully tomorrow I will know but I got a get at least 4 hours of sleep (good sleep now knowing that I have done this).