Yes new gas is part of the plan and I turn the ke back from the start position at the point that I here the grind. Whats grozoping the pressure plate?

 

Cam/crank sensor? I think that's about the only thing left, right?

 

Maybe switch out the EACV on your wife's car?

 

I actually switched it just before you came over. does anyone know if you are suppose to get power to the EACV in the on (pre-start position)

 

Well I have been wondering about the alternator because if it were the crank angle sensor it would not have started the first time and it had not been touched. something had to have happened since I fired it up the one time.

 

Alternator? You're battery's still charged and your car's cranking.

 

Yes the car will start and then maybe not start later if the timing is off. I had this experience the first time I did the t-belt and I was 1 tooth off on the passenger head. I verified timing was off by doing a compression test and finding strange readings on the whole passenger bank. In this situation the car would start again with starter fluid into the intake.

It is sometimes hard to tell what you have/haven't tried when dealing with these problems. Is your adaptor harness still in the equation or have you temporarily removed it? I can't remember if its Ford or Honda but one uses a backup reference voltage to the fuel pump as well. Ill look into it.

If you can hear the pump priming in run, I would be less likely to suspect it. What makes you think that its the pump shutting off in start, instead of the injector pulse?

edit: was ford that uses back up fuel pump signal in conjunction with inertia switch. Not honda. my bad. B9 should be starter signal?

 

I know it's not the pump, because it primes, so it's not suspect. The adapter harness is not suspect because I tested it in the wifes car as I did with the main relay. Main suspects are fuel (because starter fluid works) and anything that would cause the car to only stay on while the key is in the start position. I think there has to be a relay somewhere that I popped.

 

I am checking out the new chat room right now and discussing issues real time (excellent addition )

 

Joined in.

When I was looking at the diagram before I missed needing battery voltage on D1 to run the fuel pump, but it doesn't really matter since that would prevent priming too.

Edit: Heh, tonight I was apparently missing that battery voltage is actually shown supplied to D1 on that same diagram, which is exactly why I didn't assign any importance to D1 yesterday :snipe:

 

Isn't this the same issue Dv8 has with his EMS?

Check his EMS thread.


The Legend has one main relay that controls fuel and ignition while AEM has a different setup.

 

Isn't this the same issue Dv8 has with his EMS?

Check his EMS thread.

The Legend has one main relay that controls fuel and ignition while AEM has a different setup.

True but the FIC right now is not hooked up

 

Telion like you said if its priming during the ign position is not the pump, by looking in the diagram and with all the checks you already made and knowing also some of the symptoms I know is not one of the related fuses to the main relay and ECU the problem has to be the sensor signal that "tells" the ECU that the engine is running (turning) to hold the output signal to the main relay fuel pump secondary coil,I don't know how the ECU knows if the engine is running but my guess will be the knock or MAP sensor but is just a guess but it won't hurt to check wiring connections to these sensors and posible the fuses going to the main relay:dunno:.

I will look into it some more the sequence is almost the same for the NSX with the difference that NSX has an extra relay for the fuel pump.

 

Telion like you said if its priming during the ign position is not the pump, by looking in the diagram and with all the checks you already made and knowing also some of the symptoms I know is not one of the related fuses to the main relay and ECU the problem has to be the sensor signal that "tells" the ECU that the engine is running (turning) to hold the output signal to the main relay fuel pump secondary coil,I don't know how the ECU knows if the engine is running but my guess will be the knock or MAP sensor but is just a guess but it won't hurt to check wiring connections to these sensors and posible the fuses going to the main relay:dunno:.

That was my suggestion as well, but I'm also not sure what sensor(s) the ECU uses to determine the car is "running". My guess would be the crank sensor.

I'd feel pretty confident in saying the ignition switch, main relay and (like car2n said) the fuel pump are not likely at this point. It's the exact same circuit for priming the car vs. running the car (with the FLR output from the ECU being what actually controls whether the fuel pump is powered or not).

 

Ok I am going to upload a vid, and yeah in flash chat (great feature) we were considering it being the ignition switch as part of the issue because that is a common problem that causes you to only have the fuel pump stay on by having to hold the key in the start position. when you release the key it cuts the fuel pump do to a malfunction in the switch (or something related going to or from it)

Battery is also dying now
€

 

That ^ is the missing element what tells the ECU to the engine has started and to keep it on after the key is let go

 

Oh yeah it also threw codes 14 EACV and 42 passenger side Oxygen sensor again.

 

Blown fuse #22 (under dash) would explain the code 42 and the pop you heard (troubleshooting chart for code 42 is on 11-40 in the service manual).

Code 14 troubleshoot is on page 11-74, but it doesn't offer a similar explanation for the pop (which, IIRC, was when both codes started coming up).

 

I will check fuse 22 tomorrow (well tonight) if that was the pop I will be joyed. maybe I will check it now lol.

 

Heh, that almost seems like it'd be too easy .

Wish I could help more, but besides looking stuff up in the manual I've been well out of my league for eighty-some pages :lol:.

 

haven't we all lol checked all the fuses they are good (think that's twice now)

 

Then it has to be the main relay or the crank sensors i check my manual and crank senses for the crank position for the injectors pulses and also senses RPM for engine running, in the NSX manual shows how to check the MR it looks the same by looking in both disgrams but not sure anyway since you heard something "pop" and it wasn't a fuse then do a test sequence for the main relay and if isn't that check the cranks.

 

main relay has already been tested and verified good.

 

You're using the RL intake manifold, right? Are you sure that you didn't plug the wires for the IACV into the air intake or coolant temperature sensor? All three use the same 2-pin round plug. My guess would be that the air intake and IACV are reversed - as the coolant temp would set an instant code. This explains the pop, as the IACV gets alot more power. When you plug it in to one of the temperature sensors it just about shorts the IACV circuit out. Check your wiring, most likely you just fried one of the sensors and that was the source of the pop. Worst case scenario you fried the control circuitry inside the ECU.

-Matt

 

I am glad I have your mind on board on this but nope TII intake manifold and the wires are the same pinout but they are color coded and correct . But keep the ideas coming.

 

Well, if you have an IACV code 14 and the car wont stay running... thats definetly related Check and see if you have battery voltage at the eacv with the ignition on (yel/blk wire and engine ground) - that comes directly from the main relay.

-Matt

 

a legend CAN run depending on if the solenoid on the IACV is froze in the open position. This happened on another members car. He disconnected the connecter and the car ran however it ran rich, hence why the other code will throw for O2. So your solenoid is blown or the other relay IN the main relay is fried hence the pop.(two mini relays in main relay). You can jump two pins on one of the connectors for the relay to keep the pump on full time to at least run the car.

shit goes wrong on a car that sits for a while. don't sweat it.

 

You can jump two pins on one of the connectors for the relay to keep the pump on full time to at least run the car.

This actually seems like a good idea, if you force the pump to run and it idles then you know the ECU is killing the fuel pump. If you force the pump and it still doesn't idle then you can (mostly) ignore the fuel pump end of things.

 

Ok guys I don't blame you for not following what has been tested because this is becoming a bit drawn out really could even use a separate thread because I am certain it is unrelated to the build but this gets exposure so. . .

But I pulled the connector on the EACV on my wifes car and it started fine then a few seconds later while idling it through a CEL. Now with that same logic I put the main relay in my wifes car and tested it and it fired up fine. so now that I have your great minds up to speed what else could it be.

 

so now that I have your great minds up to speed what else could it be.

Did you change out the fuel injectors? Haha, just kidding.

Did you ever siphon out the old gas and check your timing? It sounds like you got everything except those.

Did you check the functionality of the ignition switch like mentioned before?

 

check the IAT and the EACV connectors.

 

Yes Matt I agree not completely for the same reasons but people keep asking the same things after I explain how I nixed them as a possibility through testing and then posting how I tested it, I pointed this out and then just recently Vic pointed it out. But repetitious responses are better than none. so till I find out if I can move page 80 on to a separate thread then we will go as is. Finally she is talking to me, I recharged the battery and she is throwing a code 16 Fuel injectors. I will go through the trouble shoot for this I have a copy of the manual, I am not discouraging people from posting the DIY though because many people don't. The code 16 is new though and explanatory

 

Your method of "testing" by swapping parts from one car to another doesn't eliminate the possibility of shorted or open wires in the harness. Stop being so damn hard headed , break out the VOM AND TEST THE FUCKING VOLTAGE!

-Matt

sorry ninja edited the fuck outta this one....

 

Ok let's move past all this non sense and get ready for some tuning

Had to keep on the throttle to keep her alive but it's enough of a carrot to get me through the night. Inadvertently Matt you helped out on this. I dialed the idle adjusting screw almost as far out as I could and:boink: Let tomorrow bring on a new challenge. It is too late to do anything tonight. and the injectors well my bad when I was playing with the harness yesterday I must have not connected it all the way. And there could be something to the FIC as well because I removed it, And adjusted the NEO to -4 up through 2k. when it was at -2 it had some issues idling.

 

yes she runs but what was the problem?

 

Ok let's move past all this non sense and get ready for some tuning I dialed the idle adjusting screw almost as far out as I could and:boink: Let tomorrow bring on a new challenge. And there could be something to the FIC as well because I removed it, And adjusted the NEO to -4 up through 2k. when it was at -2 it had some issues idling.

Ok I don't think the NEO settings affected it starting, and I screwed the idler screw back in a bit. It could have been the FIC harness though. This weekend I will step through it till everything is correct one step (ex. add injectors back) then test fire it. Then add the wiring harness jumper for the FIC then test it. I have taken it past the point where it bogged down before. I added (per hybrid yeah he gave this temp fix advise) a one way check valve at the map sensor so it didn't see positive boost and it worked. I didn't think it would get out of vacuum so quickly but it does at about 2.5k