[reboticon]

I think he meant it was strange because you didnt find anything causing interference when you pulled the heads. It sounds like one of my typical ordeals to me. I'd have pulled the heads also then scratched my head when i didn't find the screw or bolt, but don't let it get ya down everyones just holding their breath and waiting at this point for you to finish up and excite us!

 

[Telion]

I see but I am sure that I did really you see the piston in question was at lets say full compression all the way to the top so whatever was in there would have slid off the engine while I pulled the head. Keep in mind the engine is still in the car and the heads sit at an angle. It is crazy to think that I am a mere days from firing up what could be potentially be one of the most power Legends on the forum.

 

[dblanehopr]

nah man, i'd thought that too, but you didn't mention it. the chamber look good after you took it off?

 

[car2n]

Telion I'm sorry you have to go through all this head work to just find nothing that is really wierd, I did not know that head valves cycle have a "neutral" position I have the idea that some of the valves should be open in anytime of the cycles but not really an expert, I had a 75 International Travelall with 345 in it that while doing carb work I droped a big flat washer into the intake manifold but I did not notice till i started the engine and heard the banging noise cominf from one side of the engine, well to make short i removed one of the heads and found that the washer had completlly desintegrated and only found a little piece left so i wasted all that work.

Hope you get good quality HG now that they are apart.

 

[Telion]

man, yeah I got OEM I could not find MLS but this won't be the last time the heads come off

 

[Vic Cardenas]

I did not know that head valves cycle have a "neutral" position I have the idea that some of the valves should be open in anytime of the cycles but not really an expert,

I think what they are referring to is the valves position in the "compression" stroke.

 

[car2n]

I think what they are referring to is the valves position in the "compression" stroke.

No I think is a position of the cam where all of the valves are closed but this does not mean they are in compression stroke, I guess there is a "neutral" position I just never was aware of it.:hide:

 

[hybirdgsrlegend]

Well at least your not the only one doing a head gasket job =)

 

[dasficktauf]

It's simple if a screw drops in to the piston, the piston can't reach it's maximum height before transitioning back down the chamber preventing it from full rotation.

oh trust me a completely understand.. old fuel injectors. the little plastic collars.. decided to disintegrate on me when pulling the rail off my old prelude..

before i was able to "pull a head" (damn newbs. haha) and i did the same thing. vacuum. smack myself in forehead.. all of the above.

the gremlin jumping out was meant to be positive my friend.:hide:

 

[Telion]

Lol, I gotcha. Well I really think it is my car that is dabbling in the dark side a bit, now if I can just convert and harness that energy and get her running again.

 

[reboticon]

No I think is a position of the cam where all of the valves are closed but this does not mean they are in compression stroke, I guess there is a "neutral" position I just never was aware of it.:hide:

There isn't a neutral position where all the valves are closed, but if you rotate the crank 15 degrees from TDC of ANY cylinder, then all the cylinders will be sitting low enough that even with the valves fully open they won't contact the cylinders. Thats what Sr5 was talking about.

 

[car2n]

OK but wasn't Telion's problem that crank was not turning at certain position? If you set your 15 degree neutral position on the crank how do you know what is n the way if you are not able to move the crank? do you rotate the head cams to see if they are free and clear the pistons?

 

[dblanehopr]

i've heard that you shouldn't spin the crank backwards but i'll back it off in either direction awy from the valves you need to before you spin the cams. when i had my cams set it was fine cranking mine, but iz a different engine. wouldn't mind getting to mess with a nsx. you think on yours there's a spot on the cams rotation that the valves are not below the hg or piston tops? where's the tdc mark pointed? ya kno man..tha marks always tdc, but on 2 strokes

edit: *bangs head to rage* :nutkick:

 

[reboticon]

OK but wasn't Telion's problem that crank was not turning at certain position? If you set your 15 degree neutral position on the crank how do you know what is n the way if you are not able to move the crank? do you rotate the head cams to see if they are free and clear the pistons?

Correct. Sr5guy was not telling Telion how to find what was blocking the engine. When he posted that, Telion thought that maybe the timing belt had slipped. Sr5guy was giving the method to line up the cams with the timing belt off.

There is definitely no postion where all the valves are closed, thats why every cam has overlap.

After thinking about it, what I would have done, would be to rotate the crank to where it quit rotating, then back off 15 degrees. Then I would push down on each valve, until I found the one that was hitting something with very little movement. I didn't think of doing it this way until Telion had already posted that he pulled the heads:hide:

 

[DANK$OLDIER]

Like he said he had to pull the heads for new gaskets anyway!
Over done!
Now he just needs to get it back together so we can see it running!!! :thumbsup:

 

[dblanehopr]

yeah, you can feel it hit.. just keepin steady slow rotation it'll.. just stop it self.
could check the firing order.. which ever valve is down and when.. compression stroke 1 tdc...*it's not attached yet, so just make that stroke be comp* or exhaust stroke depending on where that cylinder's valves are set... exhaust and intake are roughly 90 degree or whatever apart... exhaust going first then roundabouts 90 degrees later the intake. i'm meaning in that general angle. and a span between the intake and the exhaust again....excuseme..excuseme again spark being like 135 meh.. after the intake peak. so each pistons fire timing tells you where the cam lobes should be for the chamber. when you put the 1st cylinder at the tdc mark **the cams aren't attached yet so either stroke is fine. just spin the cam of each piston hittin tdc to where the cam's on the low spot* a good picture of the cams well tell you the order of the lobes and where to have it when any piston is at tdc. via when the timing mark on them is supposed to be. it's 1 rotation for the cam...damn i'm sittin here tryna figure out how to put this into words and i'm missin F1. lol *shrugs* i just gotta do it.. not so good at workin it out in me head

really think you can use the tdc mark by 1st cylinder and a picture of the crank and it'll tell you the piston arrangement by the crank pulley. and then spin the cams w/ the pic of the cams and their marks.

 

[hybirdgsrlegend]

Heads are off, what ever was in there is gone so let's wait for him to put it toghter and hear it run

 

[Telion]

Ok as much as I would love for this to just be a teaser I want to get some info (I will also be searching). I figured if you wanna throw your 2 cents in as to what it could be off the top of your head that would help. Ok so hear is the issue when I fire it up it runs straight to 4k. here is what I know that it is not

1. Not the cable or throttle body stuck in the open position
2. I doubt it is the EACV as it was working before the build.
3. It could be the modified air boost valve I will replace it with a stock one
4. could be the TPS sensor, though I cannot see it causing such a drastic problem
5. could be a vacuum line of some sort
6. It is not the FIC because it is not hooked up yet.

And in the meantime I have this and no CEL so far.


Here is what it could be.

1 It could be the fast idle valve, I didn't block it off because I blocked the air inlet I will try to block it off all together.

 

[Telion]

Ok I have to eat so I cannot test my theory but I think the EACV and the boost air valve are connected airway wise and if the EACV is open it allows more air though it (and now) the air boost valve. I will try that after I eat.

 

[dblanehopr]

2. I doubt it is the EACV as it was working before the build. quick test?
3. It could be the modified air boost valve I will replace it with a stock one. gotta keep an eye on some mods..
4. could be the TPS sensor, though I cannot see it causing such a drastic problem. sounds like air not fuel, and if the tps was off the cables would show the tb open.. tps would change the fuel right? and cuz it sounds like too much air...
5. could be a vacuum line of some sort. maybe, but i've driven with some not attached and it doesn't go to 4k..

fast idle.. vacuum's vacuum.. as long as it's closed one way or another it should do that.

gotta be air right? unless somehow you've got so much pressure being exerted by the power stroke that it's suckin in air way too fast.. lol ? right?