[Telion]

It's this one
Google Image Result for http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/norm/aei-13105_m.jpg

Brand: Aeromotive
Product Line: Aeromotive Compact EFI Fuel Regulators
Part Type: Fuel Pressure Regulators
Part Number: AEI-13105
Fuel: Gasoline/Alcohol
Pressure Range (psi): 30-70
Regulator Style: Return
Regulator Location: Inline
Boost/Vacuum Reference Port: Yes
Boost/Vacuum Rise Ratio: 1:1
Gauge Port: Yes
Mounting Bracket Included: Yes
Fittings Included: Yes
Rebuildable: Yes
Inlet Quantity: Single
Inlet Attachment: Male threads
Inlet Size: -6 AN
Outlet Quantity: Single
Outlet Attachment: Male threads
Outlet Size: -6 AN
Return Fitting Size: -6 AN
Regulator Material: Aluminum
Regulator Finish: Red anodized
Quantity: Sold individually.

Fuel Pressure Regulator, 30-70 psi, Red and Black Anodized, Universal, Each

* Check to make sure this part fits your application

Small regulators, huge performance.
These compact EFI regulators from Aeromotive are designed for applications producing up to 1,000 hp, where space is at a premium. Their compact design fits small engine compartments while providing big performance. They're ideal for EFI systems where only one inlet is needed.

 

[Guest]

Telion I have had success with my aeromotive. Its this one Aeromotive A1000-6 Injected Bypass Regulator - JEGS

It can be had for about 70 used.

 

[reboticon]

Looks like the regulator is not hooked up right? Pressure should rise with boost not fall?

 

[Telion]

Thanks for the input I will have to continue working through this the FPR is hooked up correctly, there is an in, an out and a vacuum line, kinda hard to get wrong .

 

[antik]

Looks like the regulator is not hooked up right? Pressure should rise with boost not fall?

Thanks for the input I will have to continue working through this the FPR is hooked up correctly, there is an in, an out and a vacuum line, kinda hard to get wrong .

The vacuum system is total magic to me but perhaps you have it hooked up to a line applying pressure in the wrong direction?

Keep it up - you'll find it!

 

[trs031]

Wow that engine bay looooks sharp. Good Luck ironing out the kinks.

 

[Telion]

Still can't get it to start, I have swapped out the main relay, the resistor and the fuel pump

Here is where I am at, I get fuel pressure (I can feel the system pressurize) I have power going to the injectors but I don't think they are opening. I checked spark at the coils and I am getting spark. I want to rule out fuel because I have driven it with the same fuel. The only thing I can think of is that there is a wire that controls the injector pulse. Does anyone know which wire from the ECU controls the injector pulse I was thinking that the wires I was under the impression that the A25 and A7 wires off the ECU are the power wires for the injectors and wires A1 - A6 control the pulsation at which they open.

I have also swapped out the ECU and bypassed the FIC and that didn't work
Checked the crank angle sensor wiring at that is fine. I will try swapping out the injectors again to see if for some reason they (though they worked till I pulled them) are the issue.

 

[1_Hot_Legend_LS]

Still can't get it to start, I have swapped out the main relay, the resistor and the fuel pump

Here is where I am at, I get fuel pressure (I can feel the system pressurize) I have power going to the injectors but I don't think they are opening. I checked spark at the coils and I am getting spark. I want to rule out fuel because I have driven it with the same fuel. The only thing I can think of is that there is a wire that controls the injector pulse. Does anyone know which wire from the ECU controls the injector pulse I was thinking that the wires I was under the impression that the A25 and A7 wires off the ECU are the power wires for the injectors and wires A1 - A6 control the pulsation at which they open.

I have also swapped out the ECU and bypassed the FIC and that didn't work
Checked the crank angle sensor wiring at that is fine. I will try swapping out the injectors again to see if for some reason they (though they worked till I pulled them) are the issue.

A7 supplies signal to the main relay for the fuel Pump
A25 is the switched 12V in for the ECU from the main relay.
A1-A6 Are the injector (-) pulse signals

The injectors get their power from the main relay at the same source as the ECU, the 12v source passes thru the injector resistor before reaching the injectors. I would check the Injector Resistor and the crank/Cyl sensor. Most likely if you have no injector pulse but have power then the Crank/Cyl sensor is probably the culprit.

Here is the schematic of the injector wiring:
Acura Legend Online Service Manual (Page: 0173)

And the Flow chart to check the Crank/Cyl sensor:
Acura Legend Online Service Manual (Page: 0207)

 

[reboticon]

Those are the correct pins. Did you hook up a Noid light to see if the injectors were firing? How bout taking a can of starter fluid and spraying it in the intake to see if that will start the car? You can use the 3.5 RL injectors by eliminating the injector resistor and splicing all 7 wires that go to it together.

 

[Telion]

I think I figured it out, you won't believe how stupid this was. For now I will say I don't know how it ever even started with this oversight lol. Oh man this had me pissed.

 

[Vic Cardenas]

Was it the fuel pump fuse? LOL

 

[Telion]

Ok here it is. I knew it was a fuel issue , but it was one like I had never encountered before. How could the system be getting fuel but not getting fuel I knew it was not anything in the system because it was all new. Then last night I was watching a variety of videos of people with the same Aeromotive FPR with gauges and all of there's would pressurize at the ignition II or pre-start position. So why didn't mine do this. Curious about this and how one of you guys mentioned this I firgured I would find out why and for go my mission to figure out why the injectors were not opening. So I ny passed everything in the fuel line so it went straight into the FPR and then to the return line. I turned the ignition and all be damned lol my gauge showed pressure too. But what was blocking my fuel line at the rails?

Well you would have to be familiar with the RL's rails to have been able to helped me. Anyway, I went through everything troubleshoot wise I damn near have it memorized. I seperated the passenger side rail fuel leaked out "ok that's normal" went to the driver side and everything was bone dry. I thought WTF, then proceeded. Once it was all apart I looked at the flow of the system and well you see the hole where the banjo goes and feeds the injectors.

I added that a couple hours ago. Drilled the hole put everything back together with the 40% fuel cut chip and the 450cc injectors and she fired right up and held pressure

The fuel line went straight to nothing and there must have been enough vacuum in the system to suck teh fuel from the return line somehow :dunno:

 

[dasficktauf]

UNREAL.

my favorite part... (and now it starts right up)

 

[reboticon]

doh I hate headaches like that. All that matters is you got it running again!

 

[1_Hot_Legend_LS]

Damn, isn't that a :nutkick:

 

[Telion]

Well were not out of the woods yet I heard a little pop when I was putting the main relay in. didn't sound like the main relay but now the car wont stay on unless I hold the gas down a bit and it is throwing codes 14 Electronic Idle Control Module and Right Oxygen Sensor Heater (42 likely because now it is running super rich unlike my last post) what gives.

 

[Vic Cardenas]

Well were not out of the woods yet I heard a little pop when I was putting the main relay in.

Dude, you're supposed to disconnect the battery when you do that stuff. hehe.

Are you off tomorrow? I'm going to hit up the junkyard by your house.

 

[reboticon]

Didn't you bypass the EACV? i would thnk that would cause the code 14?

 

[Telion]

No that was the air boost controller that I bypassed but is it possible that I am flooding it with having the regulator at the end of teh setup just before it goes back into the return line?

 

[reboticon]

hmm that would explain your problems, though I have not ever heard of it before. Thats where it would be on a 4cylinder, connected to the return line at the end of the rail. I would throw on the stock regulator since that should be pretty easy (but a little messy) and try to rule it out that way.