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Lusting for a twin turbo setup, and would like (helpful) ideas

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142K views 1.5K replies 96 participants last post by  Telion  
#1 · (Edited)
First I apologize for the serious teaser and putting up pics of a project without results and dyno's because there are none. And who knows how long it could be before I go any further it could be a year or more! I just love hearing the ideas suggestions, feedback and knowlege you all have to offer. Isn't that a bulk of what we are here for? :) Well as many of you know I am currently underway with the Supercharger setup. It has been a very slow process but is still underway and the manifold for it is now being welded from what I understand.

I could not get over how much I loved Hotlava's tt setup and it overcame me. So I figured at some point in the future I also wanted to do a tt setup and began slowly buying the additional pieces it would take to do so (being that many are the same, such as injectors, fuel pump monitoring gauges and what not). Then last week my car decide to get some garage time (it broke down later found to be a broken axle, Ebay? I think it was tsk tsk). But none the less it was a perfect excuse to play while she was down so I started to look at how I would eventually want my tt to be setup. What better way than to play. It helps kill concepts that look good in your head given the (not so) workable space; a few of my ideas have since died. But long story short this is where I am at so far. Now that my wife knows that it is just a broken axle I only have shipping time to continue playing before having to put her back together again.

A couple quick notes

-No this will not be done/completed for a very very long time.-This is very new to me so I would be the last to ask for suggestions though I love to share ideas.
-Yes the supercharger project is still underway and taking precedence over this.

-No I did not wake up one morning and say I am going to do a Legend Twin turbo setup during breakfast (sorry Hybird, that just kills me lol)
-No I am not going to be using PVC intercooler piping it is just cheaper to hack away at till I figure how I am going to do it when the time comes.
-I have also read up on some articles of Twin vs. Single and each seem to have there advantages from knowlegable members of their respective forums.
-cheap clamps will be replaced with t-clamps.

Ok the book is done here's the pics. (excuse the mess my garage is at war)
also please forgive the ugly "stand in" mesh and terrible paint, looks will come last. I don't want to tear it up after doing body work and paint.
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This one concerns me, there is not much rook and there is a damn brake fluid line that may need to be relocated. wires and hoses I don't mind moving brake, AC, and power steering lines I am not so happy/experinced with.
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Hopefully at some point I will be done destroying my car and be able to build it up like the one in my head lol.

-Tip- If you get a new intercooler or radiator, cover the fins with cardboard until it is fully installed so you don't damage the fins during installation :hide:

PS. The purple finish and and nice shiney engine bay will be back in time. it was too hard to maintain and not scratch to hell while getting a bug of some sort and doing stuff like ^ this. I think eventually I will powdercoat vs. paint though.
 
#265 ·
More of another sidenote than anything else, after this we'll get back on track, but I wanna get a few other things hammered out real quick. Pics tomorrow after this has had a days work. I swapped my clutch reservoir (plastic) for a metal mitsubishi power steering reservoir so far so good, same for the Zero1000 mocked up power steering reservoir.
 
#267 ·
Yeah I tried the CN400 port too, it does not work. That is the Innovate LM-1wideband and a RPM converter.
 
#268 ·
#269 ·
Thanks, yeah I suppose it could be a distraction, good thing it logs the data lol. I can take pics of the the radiators mounting points later today.
 
#270 ·
Still off topic and a duplicate pic for a few who may have seen the actual thread on this. But I am posting a pic here of my newly converted clutch reservoir using the power steering reservoir from a Mitsubishi (there all the same I believe unsure of the year though 90's?) because I said that I would. It worked great.

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#274 ·
I will be back in a few I must now go to the Temple (aaaooooommmm)
 
#276 ·
Ok getting back on topic :) welding is scheduled to begin this weekend.
 
#277 ·
grrrrr this is driving me nuts. Ok the headers are a no go the sidewalls (thickness) is too thin and not worth the time and effort involved to only have them last a matter of months so I can chalk that up as a loss :(. And to duplicate this in schedule 40 mild steel would a. not be worth the minimal benefit and b. not be cost effective so my current goal is to have a set like this made out of sch 40 piping. I am really really pissed about this one because the cost of the material is about what I paid for the headers so please no one else make this mistake.

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on a positive note while looking for ^ I did find another useful link. Has a lot of good basic information in it

MegaSquirt® and Turbocharging
 
#279 ·
The metal was too thin, more info in previous post but turns out they were 16 gauge mild steel so no dice as I found out later. but I am pressing forward, and the headers are really the last major item needed for this project so who knows. But sadly she will not be hitting the track this year in F/I fashion, if at all. Happy side note boost guage arrived and the oil pressure guage is on the way. Aturbo timer is still up for debate for the moment, and at best on a back burner because I gotta buy weld els. Everything goes fast till you get to a point of depending on others :( (unless you are willing to shell out alot of $$$)
 
#281 ·
What's the problem with 16 gauge? You're saying it's too thin??? I've never seen a turbo manifold made with anything other than 16 gauge. Maybe I'm not understanding the problem.
I'd still be happy to help with your manifolds Telion. Let me know if there's anything I can do.
 
#282 ·
What about just porting the stock manifolds? From everything i have read equal length headers are not a huge deal when dealing with a turbo. Especially when its very close to the head and can still flow enough. You might have some strange things happening at 6000+ rpm from extra back pressure on cyl 1 and 4, but the 3 to 1 straight design of them would definitely spool the turbos faster at low rpms.
 
#284 ·
Stainless steel 16 guage I agree would be fine but a mild steel 16 guage is what is in quetion, I really wnat these headers done though so for all those willing to help I truly appreciate it. What I think I need to do is get a set of stainless steel headers mocked up and weld ready and then possibly send them to Kho or Vic's guy. Kho since you are on here can you look at the last pic and let me know what it would run to weld something like that up via PM considering the welds would be out of stainless and be welded at each bend, at the runners and where the merge is?
 
#285 · (Edited)
"Thin walled mild steel header (generally 16 to 18 gauge) tubing is inexpensive and easy to work with, but is not strong and will fatigue (and crack) quickly from the high temperatures and mechanical stresses a turbocharger will put on it. Thin mild steel also dissipates heat quickly, reducing the turbocharger efficiency. You can wrap the tubes with insulating material, but more heat means the metal fatigues and breaks more quickly." forgot to mention this was a quote from Megasquirt.
 
#287 ·
Well technically at the moment I don't have a welder for this project because he cannot weld stainless steel. So I am going to put my self in a position to just pay for this to be done by whom ever I can get to do it at a reasonable price. But yes the way he was welding did gain full penetration of the metal teh question was not so much the weld as it was the material. I would like these to be able to last a while though so I am going to pay for a little higher end product.
 
G
#289 ·
Telion I know my welder would be able to weld all metals including stainless if you wanted. He might not come cheap but he does a weld job that would mimic a machine. I had actually talked to him about reversing the obx headers and if they would just cut and mount a flange and make up a downpipe/exhaust. They actually planned it all out with me. IF that was all the welds. But for making complete headers he said look around 1500-2000 fully stainless.
 
#292 ·
Just a little bit more space making not much of an update but space is one of the things we lack. PS sorry for the look of the engine bay she is still under renovation. and I am thinking about making something to cover some of this stuff to clean up the look a bit.

I guess I should mention the black box is the relay box that normally connects to the fan shroud.
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#294 ·
All I had to do was pull the wiring over, but who knows what else I have done to get it there I have moved or changed such as the projector swap but those are all minor wires to extend so no big deal there. I have see what The Crowing is doing and just didn't want to take all that on if I didn't have to.
 
#296 ·
I am stll working on a supercharger kit that I hope to at some point offer as a kit. But as for now I encourage anyone to attempt either and share what you learn along the way as it will assit who ever is trying this themselves, including me :)
as for the price tag it is going to vary on many of these items depending on what you want to/are willing to spend :(
Now on a side note the material for the headers have arrived. I thought I would throuw together what I have in mind.

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I am still indecisive about the collector
 
#298 ·
Yes it would be easier but I need for this setup to be able to endure an increased desire for power and honestly I think the 350z headers are closer to like 18 guage and with all the reading I have been doing the better way for me to go in this case is the direction above. Don't worry I know this is probably too involved for your guy.