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be sure to check your wires before replacing your vss...

I ordered my part on ebay for $97. When I went to remove the bad one I found out that my wires were cut and slashed in 2 different spots. Of course I reworked the wiring before installing the part just to check and the original vss still worked! I learned my lesson to rule out any simple fixes before buying expensive replacement parts.

I havent even taken the vss repair kit out of it's plastic packaging, it's still brand spankin new. I will sell it for $80 shipped. My loss is your gain. (I post this here because it's not letting me do so in FS forums for some reason, plus obviously alot of vss DIY'ers will be here.) Send a PM if interested or email me at younga@bgsu.edu about paypal payment. I'll have it in the mail within an hour of payment via USPS priority mail. If you want it get ahold of me asap before I convince myself to ebay it and get all my money back!
 
I'm very frustrated that it seems like I'm the only one unable to see the pictures....is it my browser? It's fairly up to date.
Can someone please copy and email me the pictures? This would really help me out alot. thanks guys
boateng_a@hotmail.com
(this is in regards to Cap's tutorial on how to replace the VSS, i cant see any of the pictures)
 
so heres the run down


what the dash is telling me:

the check engine light comes one after a few seconds of driving (havent been able to track down a place that can scan it for less than $100 because its OBD-1)

the transmission light (D4) will flash once driving no matter what gear it is in

the odometer will act sparatic but most the time will sit at zero


Completely different:
annnnnd the fuel gauge is out. but the fuel light will come on once its low. suspecting its the fuel return and not the float.

not to mention SRS is on...

how she runs:

she will die once i come to a stop while shes still cold

smokes when i pull away from a stop

sometimes after i take a left turn it will take a little while to slip into gear

and once i get into higher rpms she will kick (slipping)

dont know if these are cause by the ECU going into limp mode or if these are signs of transmission failure

so what im trying to say is if anyone know when i can get my CEL (check engine light) and CTL (check transmission light) scanned somewhere besides the dealer so i figure out what the hell is going on!

besides guessing and replacing parts such as the speed sensor
 
Help - Picture is missing again

The picture from Cap's original posting is gone, and the link to Legend Tuners is also not working. Does anyone have a copy of the magical picture?
Thanks
 
Pic from VSS service post

I also can not see the pic for the VSS service. can someone please email to me?? tsx1962@yahoo.com

also - would anyone know if the VSS could cause hard shifts? The only indication of VSS trouble is a recent one time speedo malfunction - Tranny shifts have been hard for quite some time and since before I bought the car so I am not sure how long - car now has 105k miles and fluid does not smell burnt. - this is the 91 legend

thx
nate
 
Any way we could get the pics on this post re-upped? I've got a buddy with a second gen, and I'm trying to help him learn how to fix it.

Yes, bad speedo input to the ECU will cause shifting issues.
 
holy necrothead batman! The original image link was dead so here it is, alive and well. I am buying this part from Delray Acura - Online Acura Parts Store for $88 so that looks like the cheapest so far:
ACURA LEGEND SPEED SENSOR KIT () @ AcuraOEMparts.com - Acura Parts from Delray Acura

BTW this is the #1 search result when you google this whole VSS issue. Just keeping this thread alive.

I could not find the tutorial for VSS replacement. So, I used the Helm's manual, and the instructions on the replacement part to figure it out. I've attached an image of the part installed on the car. Hopefully this image, and the following notes will help others to perform this task.

First, you need to order the replacement part. The part number is 06560-PY3-000. You need a #20 Torx tamper-proof bit or screwdriver. The Torx tamper-free is NOT the same as a normal Torx bit. Tamper-free bits have a hole in the tip. You will also need a 10mm box-end wrench, 10mm socket wrench, and a phillips head screwdriver.

Then, you need to remove the plastic shroud that protects the forward-underside of the engine bay. Jack up the car, and find the oil filter. Remove the 10mm bolts and two plastic buttons that secure the shroud that spans the entire width of the car, and is just forward of the oil filter.

Now, take a look at this image:

Image


The VSS is located right beside the oil filter. First, detach the electrical connector circled in red. Next, remove the single 10mm bolt cirlced in yellow (with yellow arrow). By twisting the whole assembly back and forth, you can withdraw the VSS from the differential. A few drops of oil will spill -- have a rag ready. Then, remove the 3 Torx screws from the top of the VSS. These are circled in green on my image. Finally, use a phillips screwdriver to remove the 2 screws that hold the sensor unit to the assembly.

Replacement is the reverse. I found it much easier to work with the new parts while the VSS assembly was dangling from the two rubber hoses that you need not remove. Be sure to replace the O-ring on the VSS shaft, and the odd-shaped dust seal that goes under the top plate.

The whole job took about an hour... I could do it again in half the time now that I know how.

Cap
 
I wonder how much Acura of Agusta is charging for it.

A-L.com members get a super discount there. It's like 50% off my local dealers.
 
Hey all...

Great site over here. Jam packed with imformative info on our Legends. Thought I'd throw in my $0.02 pertaining to the VSS replacement:

1st off, I'd like to say thanks to Cap (and others) for taking the time in describing the procedure for all to share. I didn't have any problems myself, but could see the potential if people don't look out for a few things. The whole procedure took just under an hour. Here are a few more tidbits to consider:
  • When removing the plastic shroud (if you prefer to make your life easier when removing the VSS assembly), most of the screws should come out fairly easily, assuming they're severly corroded. Two of the screws hold the shroud to some aluminum brackets and are held by threaded collars (or thread Certs) and almost always seize. Instead of twisting for hours wondering why it's not coming out, simply notch out the slotted hole with a pair of diagonals so you can 'slide' the shroud out and away from these fasteners. You can choose to remove the fastener from the collar after the shroud is removed, but be prepared for a lot more time/effort. Putting the shroud back on is simple; merely slide it back in place, keeping the plastic between the fastener and the alum. bracket. You also may be lucky enough to sneak the fastener through the slotted hole, but you may also damage more that you expected.
  • When removing the dust cap of the VSS pickup (held in place w/ the #20 tamper-proof torx screws), make sure you've seated the torx bit firmly in place and keep the tool centered and pressed against the fastener while cracking loose, assuming you have a lot of dirt buildup here and didn't take the time to really clean them out. Now I see why they chose a tamper proof torx in lieu of a regular torx. The pin in the center allows you to maintain a positive contact on the 'teeth' of the bit, preventing stripping, especially in this area which is prone to dirt buildup
  • Holding the dust cap's o-ring/gasket in place: simply use a dab of grease or vaseline. You shouldn't use silicone since you may breach the sealing of the o-ring/gasket (although in this case, it's more for dirt and/or water entering the dust cap)
  • One last item, when bolting down the VSS assembly, take care to not overtorque the hold down screw. You're threading into aluminum, so just use common sense and snug tight that puppy. Let the O-ring do its trick.
Sorry for the long winded message...I think it was a little more than $0.02, but you can all keep the change.

-kg
Guess it's time to repeat...original replacement lasted about 5 yrs....hopefully the LS lasts another 5!
 
Thanks

Just waned to say thanks for all the info and reposting the pictures. I got the kit from Acura of Augusta ($85 free ship) and got it replaced in 1 hour without having to remove the hoses. Again thanks, couldn't have done squat without all the help you guys have posted.
 
i just bought a repacement speed sensor from Pull-A-Part junkyard in Nashville for $7.34!!!

God, I love Pull-A-Part

But watch out guys the torx screws strip very easily!
 
the pics on the firsts post (DIY) doesn't work? seems like an informative useful post but pictures speak a 1000 words... anyway of reposting that pic???
also where can you find the VSS kit for the 91 auto legend?
 
That's why J2 quoted the post and fixed the links. Maybe a mod could fix the originals?
 
Discussion starter · #98 ·
I could not find the tutorial for VSS replacement. So, I used the Helm's manual, and the instructions on the replacement part to figure it out. I've attached an image of the part installed on the car. Hopefully this image, and the following notes will help others to perform this task.

First, you need to order the replacement part. The part number is 06560-PY3-000. You need a #20 Torx tamper-proof bit or screwdriver. The Torx tamper-free is NOT the same as a normal Torx bit. Tamper-free bits have a hole in the tip. You will also need a 10mm box-end wrench, 10mm socket wrench, and a phillips head screwdriver.

Then, you need to remove the plastic shroud that protects the forward-underside of the engine bay. Jack up the car, and find the oil filter. Remove the 10mm bolts and two plastic buttons that secure the shroud that spans the entire width of the car, and is just forward of the oil filter.

Now, take a look at this image:

Image


The VSS is located right beside the oil filter. First, detach the electrical connector circled in red. Next, remove the single 10mm bolt cirlced in yellow (with yellow arrow). By twisting the whole assembly back and forth, you can withdraw the VSS from the differential. A few drops of oil will spill -- have a rag ready. Then, remove the 3 Torx screws from the top of the VSS. These are circled in green on my image. Finally, use a phillips screwdriver to remove the 2 screws that hold the sensor unit to the assembly.

Replacement is the reverse. I found it much easier to work with the new parts while the VSS assembly was dangling from the two rubber hoses that you need not remove. Be sure to replace the O-ring on the VSS shaft, and the odd-shaped dust seal that goes under the top plate.

The whole job took about an hour... I could do it again in half the time now that I know how.

Cap
PS,

It has been several years since I sold my beloved Legend LS Coupe.... But I did re-host the image so that it should be visible again on the first post of this thread.

Cheers, Cap
 
i tried to follow these directions but toggling the sensor didnt work now i have a slight oil leak from the 10mm bolt and what screw is sensor being hold by instructions say filipshead but none of my would fit
 
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